(Topic ID: 171855)

Harlem Globetrotters Insert Lights Don't Work

By ercvacation

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

I hadn't played my harlem globetrotters game in a while. Turned it on and the insert lights didn't work. The general lights work no problem. On boot up, I only get 6 led flashes, after the first flash and then the pause. I'm able to play the game but I noticed 3 other issues with the 5 targets on the left. The top target sometimes activates the middle pop bumper. The second from the top sometimes activates the left sling. The middle target sometimes activates the right sling. I've reseated all the connectors but I don't know where to go next. Any help would be appreciated.

#2 7 years ago

Checked your fuses? What voltage is at the lamps on their common wire?

Check for stuck switches and bad diodes on the second to last column of the switch matrix

#3 7 years ago

I read that only getting 6 flashes on boot means f4 fuse could be blown. How do I check with multimeter?

#4 7 years ago
Quoted from ercvacation:

I read that only getting 6 flashes on boot means f4 fuse could be blown. How do I check with multimeter?

If you can start and play a game, that means you're getting seven flashes. There should be one flash, then a long pause, then six more, for seven total.

To check a fuse with a multimeter, set it to the continuity testing mode and put one lead on each side. If there's continuity, the fuse is good. If you don't have a continuity testing mode, use the ohms / resistance mode, and if you get a reading less than 10 ohms, the fuse is probably good. The fuse should read similar to what you get if you just touch the two leads together

#5 7 years ago

Messing around with this connector in the pic seems to make the left target issue go away. I'm guessing it needs reminded. Cause when I play with it, it will go away and then some back some times, almost like it works itself out after I push it back in.

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#6 7 years ago

Fuse is good. Checked continuity. I've tried reseating all connectors with no luck. Where would be the logical spot to check and what to look for?

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

If you can start and play a game, that means you're getting seven flashes. There should be one flash, then a long pause, then six more, for seven total.
To check a fuse with a multimeter, set it to the continuity testing mode and put one lead on each side. If there's continuity, the fuse is good. If you don't have a continuity testing mode, use the ohms / resistance mode, and if you get a reading less than 10 ohms, the fuse is probably good. The fuse should read similar to what you get if you just touch the two leads together

If that's the case, I have 7 flashes then.

#8 7 years ago

Check your f1 fuse on the rectifier board- this is tied to the controlled lights.

If f1 is good, I would suspect your J1 and J3 plugs on the rectifier board. Make sure the pins are all the way into the housing. Inspect the header pin solder pads on the back for cracked solder joints and reflow as needed.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from ercvacation:

Fuse is good. Checked continuity. I've tried reseating all connectors with no luck. Where would be the logical spot to check and what to look for?

Checking that you have voltage at both ends the fuse, then check at the lights, then if you have it at one and not at the other, follow the line back until you find the problem

#10 7 years ago

Probably connector problems at the rectifier board.

#11 7 years ago

Burnt connector at the rectifier board J1. Would this cause my issue? I've never repinned anything before. What do I need to order? Does anyone sell a kit that has a bunch of different connectors and other materials needed to repin?

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#12 7 years ago

Check out great plains electronics. They'll have everything you need (housings, pins, header, crimper). Probably not in one easy package, but it's fairly straightforward (you need an eight pin .156" molex connector) and if you've got any concerns send them an email and they'll set you up right

#14 7 years ago

That's probably it. J1 pin 7 is the +5.4 vdc Switched Illum. Buss.

Get this crimper. It's ratcheted and makes crimping pins much easier than the non-ratcheting ones you'll see.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Big Daddy has a kit with all you need in terms of connectors and pins. It may be J1-7 but if not it's probably another pin. This way you have all you need to repin everything.
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm#b-ps18conn1

(Marco also has a kit, http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY, no $30 minimum order but it looks like it lacks the key pins. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CKBLY)

You'll also need a wire stripper/cutter, available at any Radio Shack or decent hardware store.

1 month later
#16 7 years ago

while you are in need to cut wire,you like to pick from a list of best wire strippers.It is exactly that what you are looking for with individual reviews. smartkitchenpicks.com/best-wire-strippers

1 week later
-1
#17 7 years ago

To check a fuse with a multimeter, set it to the continuity testing mode and put one lead on each side. http://smartkitchenpicks.com/best-wire-strippers

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