(Topic ID: 207346)

Harlem Globetrotters blows Solenoid Transistor and doesn’t Power on.

By bridgeman

6 years ago


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  • 33 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Need some help as I’m venturing into new area. Picked up a Harlem untested. Got home and would not power up in anyway. Replaced the two prong plug with a three prong plug and tried again. When I powered it on it blew the Q4 transistor on the solenoid board along with R17 and R18 resistors. It also blew the trace out from Q4 to pin 5 at J1. I checked schematics and it indicates these parts are linked to the out kicker solenoid. I replaced Q4, R17 and R18 and jumped a wire to replace trace from Q4. I also removed a wire off one of the legs of the out kicker solenoid thinking if that was a problem I would eliminate it. Powered on and Q4 blew again.

At this point thought I should see if anyone had any suggestions to next step.

#2 6 years ago

When you say powered on and blew; do you mean the machine booted up and your getting LED activity on the board to say it booted and then this blew, or is it that stuff blew as soon as you touched the power switch, or is it that stuff blew after you were looking around for a bit. it sure sounds like a short or wiring harness misplaced but if it took time to blow other things are possible.

Also... replacing a plug should not cause this- not saying you said it did but the way you wrote it leaves a little to the imagination... Was it simply not getting power before you replaced the plug and that's why you replaced it or was it fine (or at least not doing this) and you replaced it and now this is going on. I am guessing it was DOA and the plug fixed power... but it's important to know more as a rule out than anything.

#3 6 years ago

Disconnect the playfield coil harnesses and on the driver board and figure out how much of the game is functional.

Blowing transistors like that is going to be shorts somewhere most likely. I'd start simple and build up like clays guides recommend. Check your rectifier when the other stuff unplugged.. prove your voltages... then prove the sdb board is working and good tp voltages. Then add the mpu. You can keep the playfield disconnected for all this.

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from rufessor:

When you say powered on and blew; do you mean the machine booted up and your getting LED activity on the board to say it booted and then this blew, or is it that stuff blew as soon as you touched the power switch,

It blew as soon as I flipped the power switch

As for the plug the machine was not getting power before that. Sorry I probably could have left that out to be less confusing.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Disconnect the playfield coil harnesses and on the driver board and figure out how much of the game is functional.
Blowing transistors like that is going to be shorts somewhere most likely. I'd start simple and build up like clays guides recommend. Check your rectifier when the other stuff unplugged.. prove your voltages... then prove the sdb board is working and good tp voltages. Then add the mpu. You can keep the playfield disconnected for all this.

Thanks hopefully will be able to try this Today.

#6 6 years ago

An easy way to isolate the playfield coils , is to pull the playfield fuse. When firing up an unknown, I always pull the pwr supply output plugs, then check for proper voltages.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

An easy way to isolate the playfield coils , is to pull the playfield fuse. When firing up an unknown, I always pull the pwr supply output plugs, then check for proper voltages.

That would be J1 and J3 on the pwr supply .

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

An easy way to isolate the playfield coils , is to pull the playfield fuse. When firing up an unknown, I always pull the pwr supply output plugs, then check for proper voltages.

Is that J1 and J3 on solenoid board of transformer? When you say pull Playfield fuse are you referring to the fuse mounted to the underside of the Playfield?

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

When you say pull Playfield fuse are you referring to the fuse mounted to the underside of the Playfield?

That's the one!

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

Is that J1 and J3 on solenoid board of transformer? When you say pull Playfield fuse are you referring to the fuse mounted to the underside of the Playfield?

There is no solenoid board on the transformer, it's a rectifier board, i.e. It rectifies AC into DC. Those are the ones to unload almost all of the outputs. By pulling the playfield fuse, all of the load thats left is some Gen illum lighting.

At this point, you should also have the MPU board unplugged at J4, because we don't know the status of the 5v regulator on the SDB. Don't want it blowing the logic chips!

#11 6 years ago

Sorry should have been J1 and J3 on solenoid board or transformer. Got it.

#12 6 years ago

Pulled J1 and J3 from rectifier.
Pulled Playfield fuse
Pulled J4 from SDB.
Powered on only coin door lights light, but nothing blowing.

Got the following at rectifier.
TP1: 7.8dc
TP2: 240dc
TP3: 16dc
TP4: 9.4ac
TP5: 58dc
All seem to be above the 10% margin I am reading about.

SDB:
TP1: 1.4dc
TP2: 1.3dc
TP3: 1.4dc
TP5: 1.3dc
Obvious a problem or should this be expected with all that’s disconnected?

#13 6 years ago

I think you have issues with the wiring to the SDB. Are the connectors good from the rectifier board?

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

Pulled J1 and J3 from rectifier.
Pulled Playfield fuse
Pulled J4 from SDB.
Powered on only coin door lights light, but nothing blowing.
Got the following at rectifier.
TP1: 7.8dc
TP2: 240dc
TP3: 16dc
TP4: 9.4ac
TP5: 58dc
All seem to be above the 10% margin I am reading about.
SDB:
TP1: 1.4dc
TP2: 1.3dc
TP3: 1.4dc
TP5: 1.3dc
Obvious a problem or should this be expected with all that’s disconnected?

Your rectifier voltages are fine to be higher than nothing is connected.. no load = voltages a bit off. But they do seem higher than even I would expect (16 vs vs 14-15... 9vac vs 7ish). But for the most part that shouldn't cause a fault like you have.

Your SDB voltages are all way off tho. Make sure you are testing properly. You should have just J3 and J2 connected on the SDB. Then you should be able to test the TPs on the SDB. Make sure you get a good ground using the TP on the board. Getting the 12V, 5V, and 170-190V are the key voltages the SDB generates. You generally should make sure you have safe 5V and 12V before connecting the MPU side and other boards.

Then you can move onto connecting the PF feeds (J1 and J5).

You could have a shorted coil or wiring. Or more likely... a wire or bracket shorted to a coil lug

#15 6 years ago

I hope you unplugged MPU J4, not SDB J4.
Those voltages are a little high, but remember it's not under load.
Now, we are ready to ensure the 5v regulator is working.
Unplug MPU J4
Plug in Rectifier J1,J2,J3
Keep playfield fuse out.
Energize, and measure SDB, TP 1,3,5.

If those are OK, plug MPU J4 back in, see if you get 7 flashes.

Once you get everything on this machine up and running, I highly suggest Vids guide to bulletproofing Bally SDBs, and pwr supply boards, found on this forum.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

Once you get everything on this machine up and running, I highly suggest Vids guide to bulletproofing Bally SDBs, and pwr supply boards, found on this forum.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

#17 6 years ago

I unplugged SDB J4 and not MPU J4. Damn!

Okay pulled MPU J4, plugged J1,J2 and J3 on RB.
Have all plugs in on SDB. Powered on have GI and some signs of displays.
Have no voltage at SDB TP’s. I actually don’t think I ever had any readings at SDB. Previously I grounded to braided wire which I noticed was giving me the 1.4’ish I was getting before.

#18 6 years ago

Check continuity between Rect J3-8 and SDB J3-12. ( or SDB TP-5)

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

Check continuity between Rect J3-8 and SDB J3-12. ( or SDB TP-5)

I have continuity at both tests.

#20 6 years ago

I just reflowed pins on SDB and now have the following at test points:

1: 6.2
2: 0
3: 0
4: 0
5: 18.8

#21 6 years ago

When you measured 2&4, did you have the meter set for high voltage?

#22 6 years ago

Okay sorry guys and I appreciate you putting up with a rookie. Reflowed the rectifier now as well and here is what I have now. And I also didn’t have the meter on high (thanks valid).

Rectifier
1: 5.7
2: 240
3: 14.8
4: 6.8
5: 40

SDB
1: 5.1
2: 173
3: 3.8
4: 240
5: 14.8

That seems better.

#23 6 years ago

Sounds better. Now, leaving the playfield fuse out, plug the MPU back in and check for 7 flashes of the mpu led.

The best thing you can do for these old games, is to re-pin the connectors. See GPE , great plaines electronics, for pins, connector shells, and a proper crimper. It's a time consuming job, but greatly increases reliability.

#24 6 years ago

No flashes. LED is solid lit. Voltages seem good.
TP1: 5.1
TP2: 14.4
TP3: 19.6
TP5: 5.1.

#25 6 years ago

A locked up MPU is VERY hard to fix without an o'scope. Even then, it can be difficult. You may want to consider
an aftermarket MPU board.
But first, remove the board, and carefully re-seat U9, 10, 11, 7, 8, and whatever rom chips you have i.e.U1 thruU6.

#26 6 years ago

Gotcha. I will try that. I haven’t pulled the board yet to see what it even looks like. I will reset chips and reflow the pins and see what I get. I’m eager to see something so hopefully I can try tonight. If not I’m in Atlanta the remainder of the week. Thanks again for the help everyone. I’ll keep posted.

1 week later
#27 6 years ago

I’m back and sorry but life got in the way of this hobby! After the MPU was locked up I moving forward was beyond my level at this point in time. Fortunately I have a great guy in the area I could pull the board and take to. His diagnosis was there was a bunch of garbage chips installed most not even relative to Harlem Globetrotters. He figured someone probably just filled them up to sell. Either way he got those straightened out, replaced some pins and transistors and got me to 7 flashes, but that was on his Strikes and Spares since he didn’t have the whole game. Brought it home put in my game, made sure all voltages were safe, plugged everything in and got 7 flashes and game booted. Sound was garbled and displays are 50/50at best. Put Playfield fuse back in and started again. Bad news outkicker coil still locked on. Disconnected that coil and restarted and everything worked or better maybe should say responded. All coils worked, lights seem good. Sound bad and displays bad. I can’t see any obvious shorts. The related section to this coil on SDB all checks good.......and that is where I am at.

#28 6 years ago

Reflow all display connectors, usually clears up a lot of problems.
Sound board probably needs new caps. Also those sound boards are susceptible to ground problems, but that
Usually manifests itself as a squealing , or humming sound.

Something is providing a ground path for that coil. Interesting that the transistor didn't blow this time. If all
Of the discrete components associated with it are good, then maybe U1?
With the game off, check the grey/white wire (disconnected) leaving the coil to ground.

#29 6 years ago

Okay. What am I checking it for?

#30 6 years ago

Looking for a path to ground where there shouldn't be one.
Since the coil always locks on, something is providing a path to ground.

#31 6 years ago

i Believe ValidPower may be correct with U1 chip being the culprit. I think I have checked everything. I threw a Alltek into it and everything working. I am very fortunate as I have a pinball parts and new and used machine distributor 1 mile from my front door. Yep, a brick and mortar 1 mile from me. I have a SDB I can cannibalize a U1 from so hopefully next weekend I can try to swap that in and see if it is actually the problem. I will update. I really do appreciate all the help from everyone. Hopefully some day I can pay it back to the community.

#32 6 years ago

U1 is a ca3081 transistor array
Be sure to do the mods to that SDB while you got it out.
Put a socket where U1 goes. That makes for easy replacement if it goes again. The pads on these old boards won't take too many in and outs!

2 weeks later
#33 6 years ago

Finally an update. I received the U1 chip today. Installed and the SDB works! As I mentioned previously the rotten dog put in got game working so knew it was a SDB issue. Just closing the loop for the thread. Now the issues remains are sound board, which I received a cap kit for today and quickly realized that the sound board was an -32 and not a -50 as is supposed to be in the game. Went thru displays and they were a mess. Missing components and such. Got one display working 100% another had only the 10’s out. The others I don’t have the components to go further but have them ordered. Again since this subject is the SDB I’ll move on. Thanks to everyone for your help, I’ve learned a bunch since the first post.

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