(Topic ID: 94892)

Harlem Globetrotters restore HEP


By High_End_Pins

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 125 posts
  • 48 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Navystan
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 125 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
12
#1 5 years ago

This project is closing out so I thought I would start documenting it here in order to lead up to the completion.

The game came in in pieces and boxes.Having never done a HG before I could not tell if it was all there or not but would figure it out one way or another.I will start the pictures with the cabinet first.

As it arrived.

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#2 5 years ago

The head could be salvaged but the lower was not worth it.

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#3 5 years ago

Refinishing the cabinet is a 4 color process with the neck included.
Cabinet is based,cleared then sanded and recleared with a matte clear then lightly sanded and polished to dial in the desired gloss level.

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#4 5 years ago

Rebuilding the cabinet.

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#5 5 years ago

Dealing with the cabinet parts and wiring.

Due to the rust and corrosion switches were replaced,protections were put in place as well.Some things are put on plugs that are hidden to help eliminate hacks or give points of easier service.

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#6 5 years ago

The wiring is basically complete at this point.A new cord ,varistor and line filter were also installed.

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#7 5 years ago

Chris, are you going to put a new Ghetto Plate on the bottom?

A chromed one would look great and at the pinshows, owners would put a mirror on the ground so it could be easily seen....

Spectacular work, as always!

#8 5 years ago

One of the worst parts to restore are these Bally coin doors.There are just so many parts to it and they are all metal for the most part and usually rusted.

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#9 5 years ago

It took about a full day just to rebuild the door.Mostly because things had to be retapped and I decided to make my own wiring harness.

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#10 5 years ago

Coin door is in place. Went with token plates because I like the match.

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#11 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Chris, are you going to put a new Ghetto Plate on the bottom?
A chromed one would look great and at the pinshows, owners would put a mirror on the ground so it could be easily seen....
Spectacular work, as always!

Thanks Vid.
I don't know about the plate.I could but with the thicker floor it is hard to justify. This game will be at shows from what I am told.

#12 5 years ago

Going with original displays.The cabinet portion is complete and powered up for testing.

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#13 5 years ago

This is what I am starting with for the playfield assembly.
A somewhat populated playfield and some bags or boxes of parts.

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#14 5 years ago

The rails are pulled . The apron is located.Both are repaired ,refinished and cleared.

I will leave it here for now.

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#15 5 years ago

Looking good so far! The cabinet and coin door are fantastic.

I'm guessing this is Mark's? If so, I can't wait to play it!

#16 5 years ago

Pinball porn in it's finest.

#17 5 years ago

The original playfield was workable if needed but mostly Mylared and given the unknown condition once that Mylar was removed I have to say I feel lucky to have been offered a NOS playfield once the project kicked off . I took that and started working with it in the background.As far as this era goes this NOS playfield was not too bad.The inserts were only minorly dished out and most of the gaps between them and the wood were fairly solid.When doing one of these types of games I don't really want to make the playfield completely flat if I can avoid it because that perfection inadvertently makes them play a bit differently than original examples since those typically have dished or domed inserts.
Realistically a perfectly flat playfield should be ideal but in these cases it just isn't.
The NOS was prepped then cleared.Then prepped and cleared again all working towards a happy medium of original feel without any major dips or waves.

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#18 5 years ago

The playfield continued to evolve as I eliminated most of the gaps and dishing of the inserts.Another sanding and clear application.Ultimately a few borders needed some work in the process but I did not get carried away with it because once you cross a certain line they can become more like art projects than playfield restorations.I have found over the years that sticking with it as a functional playfield restoration instead of a museum art project yields the best results as total package since it needs to play well and too many coats of clear or leveling of things ruin that for this era in particular.

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#19 5 years ago

Now the playfield is sanded,polished and t nutted.The refinished rails are in place.

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#20 5 years ago

This is another very time consuming aspect of this era.Running all new ground braid and replacing all the lamp sockets.It isn't so bad on the front end but drags out quite a bit when the original harness is soldered back in.

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#21 5 years ago

Amazing stuff. One of my favorites.

#22 5 years ago

Man I love this! You do amazing work! Keep the posts coming.

#23 5 years ago

Yet another thing to deal with on this restore was making the clear plastics.These were just way too brown to even consider reusing.There are no replacements out there either.
Given how thick and important they are I had to make sure they were as close to perfect as I could.On this era of game they act as ball guides in the locations they are placed.I don't have a laser cutter or a bunch of fancy tools for this job.
What I did was make them by hand out of a WPC-95 display cover.It was the correct thickness and just long enough.
What is involved in doing it by hand is lots of cutting,sanding and drilling.Good thing there were only two and one was pretty simple.The smaller one.

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#24 5 years ago

The topside is built about as far as it needs to go before the rewiring takes place.
All the original metal was hand polished and new post etc were of course installed.I liked the lighter red post for this project best.

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#25 5 years ago

Next is dealing with the spinners they were beat.I want to do something that last not just something that looks good in pictures so I bead blasted these then used a white epoxy coating made for appliances then baked that.
Once cured overnight I cut the art portion of the spinner decals out and applied just that.The theory is that the art itself is not contacted by the ball and the epoxy should hold up as well as can be expected during the metal to metal contact of the ball hitting the spinners edge.
I think the upside of it all is that it can easily be maintained should the need arise in the future.I could do more but it would not be something that could be redone later and too much material might effect the weight and rotation of the spinner itself resulting in less revolutions.

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#26 5 years ago

Wow, what a beautiful job!

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I don't have a laser cutter

Might not be a horrible investment!

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Next is dealing with the spinners -- they were beat. I want to do something that lasts, not just something that looks good in pictures -- so I bead blasted these then used a white epoxy coating made for appliances then baked that.
Once it cured overnight, I cut the art portion of the spinner decals out and applied just that. The theory is that the art itself is not contacted by the ball and the epoxy should hold up as well as can be expected during the metal to metal contact of the ball hitting the spinner's edge.
I think the upside of it all is that it can easily be maintained should the need arise in the future. I could do more but it would not be something that could be redone later and too much material might effect the weight and rotation of the spinner itself resulting in less revolutions.

Are epoxy paints limited to just white and black?

-mof

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Are epoxy paints limited to just white and black?
-mof

Not positive but I don't think so .
Lots of things are made in epoxy form,Primers and garage floor paints come to mind and those can be in a variety of colors.Not to say they would or wouldn't be a good fit for spinners.
Powder coat was something else I considered but I want to keep these as light and well balanced as possible and I think there is less control of how the material might gather once it goes in the oven in that process.

#30 5 years ago

Starting to wire the underside now.The harness was thoroughly cleaned and I will further work on it as I solder it in.

The mechs are being cleaned,polished and rebuilt.I think I will be able to salvage all the original coils and wrappers if not I will have good replacements but my preference on these is to keep the original wrappers because they are more unique that newer coils.The material they used for the labels back then is almost like a masking tape.

In places where a potential short could happen protections are put in place.

All switches not replaced are being cleaned then contacts are lightly scuffed with an extremely fine sandpaper.

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#31 5 years ago

One day, one day I will have a HEP. Absolute perfection.

#32 5 years ago

All the switches that require them are getting new caps in order to keep the game play as well as intended.

The stand ups are replaced with the newer targets and brackets.From the topside they are the same cosmetically but underneath they do have a different bracket configuration.This is done by choice so I can take the mount from the rear where it runs too close to the braid and move it to the front where there is nothing in the way.It also eliminates some rusty hardware in the process.This would only be something I could see doing on a new playfield not one that had already been populated with the original brackets. It does require a little more work in regards to setting it back up to the original specs with the correct diode and caps.

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#33 5 years ago

The upper portion is starting to fall into place.Much more work ahead of me as far as the wiring goes though.

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#34 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I think I will be able to salvage all the original coils and wrappers if not I will have good replacements but my preference on these is to keep the original wrappers because they are more unique that newer coils.The material they used for the labels back then is almost like a masking tape.

I totally agree. I never thought rewrapped coils looked correct for this era.

Quoted from pintechev:

One day, one day I will have a HEP. Absolute perfection.

The more restorations I see the more I want one too.

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The wiring is basically complete at this point.A new cord ,varistor and line filter were also installed.

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the cute dog seems to approve of your work !!

#36 5 years ago

I am following this closely as I doing a HG restore myself. A couple of questions:
1) The ball save gate on mine was disconnected and manually forced open. I cannot find the wire which is supposed to go to the switch on the gate assemble. Please include details on that if you can
2) I noticed you are putting CAPs in a lot of places which I am not sure are as original. Are they original spec or your own mod?
3) Do you end up not using the original head as I see one in the background?

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

The ball save gate on mine was disconnected and manually forced open. I cannot find the wire which is supposed to go to the switch on the gate assemble.

The manual shows on the Regulator Board that connector J5, pin 7 is the Right Gate

#38 5 years ago

Thanks very much for that info Vid!

#39 5 years ago
Quoted from DnDPins:

I am following this closely as I doing a HG restore myself. A couple of questions:
1) The ball save gate on mine was disconnected and manually forced open. I cannot find the wire which is supposed to go to the switch on the gate assemble. Please include details on that if you can
2) I noticed you are putting CAPs in a lot of places which I am not sure are as original. Are they original spec or your own mod?
3) Do you end up not using the original head as I see one in the background?

No wire goes to the switch blade on the gate. It is there for physical purposes only. Tension or alignment I would guess.

#40 5 years ago

Working on the drop target bank.

I eliminated the potential shorts rewired and put protections in place then added connectors for easy servicing.

Some parts were so rusty or corroded they had to be nickel plated.

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#41 5 years ago

New sling plungers and links were needed.
The gate was polished and rebuilt.There is no wire that goes to the switch blade.
The flippers required new coils.I installed caps to eliminate arching and lower the potential for random coil fires.

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#42 5 years ago

All the wiring is complete now on the underside of the playfield.

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#43 5 years ago

Looks beautiful! An inspiration for sure.

I'm in the middle of my first restoration - a Mata Hari. One thing I found particularly challenging when replacing the lamp sockets and running new ground wire is soldering the ground wire to the brackets of the new sockets. It takes a TON of heat it seems to get a good joint with the thick socket base.

Your solution of just running the ground wire under the hex-head screws is simply brilliant (and brilliantly simple)! Thank you for that!

I'll share one little flourish that I added on my project - the little metal plates that cap off the switch stacks tend to get pitted and rusted/corroded a bit. After tumbling mine for a day, I gave them a quick coat of gloss black spray paint. Combined with some new stainless hardware makes them all look sparkly new. Just a little detail that no one but me will likely ever notice, but thought I'd share.

Looking forward to some more updates!

#44 5 years ago

The playfield is in the cabinet now.
Powered up for testing.
All lamps check out .

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#45 5 years ago

Rubber and spinners are in place
The old plastics would have ruined this restoration because they are so brown.During the course of the restoration some replacements were found.They turned out to be NOS but just needed the holes punched out.A little tougher than expected but everything went well.

The plastics are now in place and all functions are correct so I just need to finish up the apron and work with the backglass a bit.

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#46 5 years ago

Do you send the metal out for plating? It looks so good.

#47 5 years ago

Thanks for sharing.

Great to see a not-so-popular pin getting a ton of love.

Awesome work.

#48 5 years ago

I would to have this done to all four my mid-late 70's Bally machines... Holy beautiful.

#49 5 years ago

So for the caps put on the flippers, what kind are they?

#50 5 years ago

So there's 2 of them?!

Amazing work as always.

Chris

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