I am having issues with my displays in my Harlem.

I attached a video below just to show exactly what's going on but need to fix player 2, 3 and 4.

Player 4 is working but the numbers are flickering which can't really be seen on the vidoe because they are all flickering.......this is just iphone at its best, sorry.

Also attached some underneath photos of the displays. They are, in order, 2, 3 and 4 display.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is the last nail that needs to be knocked in to get this pin pretty much 100%

2 (resized).jpg

3 (resized).jpg

4 (resized).jpg

Thanks Quench Appreciate all the replies and help so far.

I was thinking of getting the header pins re-flowed as a start but will look to test the transistors and resistors as above for you and report back.

Player 2 and 3 show signs of a brownish look at the pins....is this also an issue? What causes this or is it something to not worry about at this stage?

I had to repin my rectifier board connectors...yeah...fun job....not!

With the connectors on my display, the cables loop around, if I were to replace....how do I do this? Just for knowledge I guess...and if it comes to that.

Is it just a matter of carefully removing the cable, finding the right connector and pins, and pressing back in?

120133519_3515451908476154_8236119045553130130_n (1) (resized).jpg

That all looks very painful and time consuming.....thanks for the link though!

Quench (and others ) readings from what you requested above:

Player 2: R3 - O.L , which I presume is open resistance as you said??
Player 3: Q4 - 23m ohm left leg, 36m ohm right leg
Q10 - O.L left leg, 2.0k ohm right leg
R7 - 2m ohm

Ok, hopefully got all these readings correct. Never really done this so with the transistors before. I had the red lead on the single leg side, black lead touched the double leg side to get a reading.

All readings as follows:

Player 2:

R1 - 83.4k
R3 - OL
R5 - 91.2k
R7 - 83.4k
R9 - 32.9k
R11 - 102.8k

Player 3:

R1 - 104.4k
R3 - 350-360k
R5 - 0.695m
R9 - 108.1k
R11 - 137.5k

Q4 - (L) .598v (R) .617v Q3 (L) .632 (R) .637 Q5 (L) .600 (R) .627

Q10 - (L) OL (R) .584 Q9 (L) OL (R) .584 Q11 (L) OL (R) .581

Thanks for the help so far Quench really appreciate it. Enjoying learning this process as well to be honest!

As for testing of the transistors. I only tested with the method on the first photo of each Q4 and Q10.

I didn’t test the other combinations as I’m pretty sure when I tested with black lead on the single leg it didn’t give a reading (OL) so thought it incorrect.

Have run out of time today to re-do the transistor readings, will try for tomorrow mate.

Picture of Player 3 for you.

Can you also confirm these are the resistors please: https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/resistor-carbon-film-1-2k-ohm-1-2-watt/

Couldn't find the transistors on that page though.

120834074_765493780969018_4760255183383386347_n (resized).jpg

Got a chance to test Q4 and Q10 for player 2/3 and 4 displays. Results for you below:

Player 2: Q4 (left) 0.463 (right) 0.500
Q10 (right) 0.485
Q10 diagram 2 (top) .673 (left) .536 (right) .496

Player 3: Q4 (left) .568 (right) .615
Q10 (right) .584
Q10 diagram 2 (top) .854 (left) .594 (right) .559

Player 4: Q4 (left) .634 (right) .642
Q10 (right) .582
Q10 diagram 2: (top) .781 (left) .594 (rigt) .567

Where Q4 or Q10 showed OL in your diagram, that's how it read on the meter.

I’ll have to take it to a tech to do as I don’t have that type of skill unfortunately.

Should I just get them replaced anyway? As I’ll get him to change the low spec’d resistors at the same time.