(Topic ID: 312836)
Linked Games
Space Mission
Williams, 1976-
Space Odyssey
Williams, 1976
Topic Gallery
1 week later
Everything looks great. I love all things early space-race but for the life of me I cannot make myself buy this game (it comes up a lot in my area) because the playfield graphics are so nonsensical. Did the artist for the playfield ever see a real rocket? The rocket designs are backwards and completely absurd.
Quoted from lint:Everything looks great. I love all things early space-race but for the life of me I cannot make myself buy this game (it comes up a lot in my area) because the playfield graphics are so nonsensical. Did the artist for the playfield ever see a real rocket? The rocket designs are backwards and completely absurd.
True true, but the spinner is sweet! Lol
Lutz, FL
I sanded the frame to rough up the surface for the Bondo. I suck at mixing Bondo apparently but whatever, it’s on there. Hopefully it’ll sand level for me.
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Meanwhile I painted the cab Heirloom White.
I gave up on trying to spray paint the inside of cabs a while ago. The over spray cloud is god awful and it never looks right. So I will be rolling the inside of the cab to finish it.
36B945BC-BBFA-4ADD-84BC-A9AA3938462E (resized).jpeg73025436-021B-4005-8E43-BD33B6E78618 (resized).jpeg6AA34F4A-E203-4DDD-9196-D21E2070AC1F (resized).jpegThe Bondo helped. I have a few spots that I wish would’ve turned out better but I’ll live with it.
Also I’m waiting for the lab results but I don’t think this has any influence on the ball during game play…
A0480CA9-DA90-4E7C-97C0-2A2488246DAF (resized).jpeg6B65172F-6CCC-43ED-9C8A-447B3A74501C (resized).jpegB3172F99-D8E8-44F5-87FC-15028B105731 (resized).jpegQuoted from DanMarino:Man, you are just crushing these restorations!
Thanks! I usually get done with work between 4 or 5 depending on the day and my wife works until 6 so I try to do at least SOMETHING every day with that 1-2 hr window. I’m in a grind with anything spray paint related whether it’s stenciling or clear coating before the weather changes and before I lose all the evening daylight. Once I get this cab finished I’ll have all the major tasks done. Then it’s back inside to the workshop.
Anyways, it is inspiring to me. I've pretty much been happy learning how to maintain my pinball machines and make repairs. Getting the machines to operate properly and play better is rewarding. Doing total tear downs and repainting/restoring everything is a whole different level of abilities that I don't have just yet. I learn best by doing things, so the only way for me to get the skills is to attempt this stuff eventually.
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks! I usually get done with work between 4 or 5 depending on the day and my wife works until 6 so I try to do at least SOMETHING every day with that 1-2 hr window. I’m in a grind with anything spray paint related whether it’s stenciling or clear coating before the weather changes and before I lose all the evening daylight. Once I get this cab finished I’ll have all the major tasks done. Then it’s back inside to the workshop.
Did you buy a stencil kit or make your own? About to dive into this for the first time too. Any quick tips or suggestions is always appreciated mrm_4.
I have to do my Cleopatra cabinet and will have to make my own stenciles for that title. At least the artwork is pretty simple.
Quoted from Garrett:Did you buy a stencil kit or make your own? About to dive into this for the first time too. Any quick tips or suggestions is always appreciated mrm_4.
I have to do my Cleopatra cabinet and will have to make my own stencils for that title. At least the artwork is pretty simple.
I made stencils for my Flipperless Bally Rocket and my Shangri La out of glossy poster board. People do it all kinds of ways, I personally traced the art on one with tracing paper then cut out the image then drew the image on the poster board as a sort of transfer, my shangri la I just redesigned the art with math and pencils haha
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-rocket-flipperless-restoration/page/2#post-4806384
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shangri-blah-to-shangri-la-#post-5077018
Anything that I can buy from Pinball Pimp I will, thats the less headache route, although I would much rather use a NON-adhesive stencil instead to acheive that soft under-spray, but its a lot of extra work to make that.
As for tips i would say do not rush anything, I have dumped way too much money into paint because I sprayed too heavy or didnt wait long enough for the previous coat to cure before adding a color and the paint wrinkling.
Light coats a few minutes apart until you get what you want and WAIT until the paint cures before laying down new paint.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-major-recurring-problem-with-rustoleum-2x
Lot of discussion in this thread about it, some speculation on cause, but it comes down to 2 things, too heavy on the base coat or on the follow up coat, adding more paint and not waiting long enough for the base coat to cure.
I screw up A LOT but i always post my goofs so hopefully someone else doenst have to go through it.
Anyone that says they don't make mistakes/have issues is full of crap 
Rarely does anything turn out perfectly. As you've stated in your threads, at times you get to a point where you say "I can live with it".
Thanks for the tips. I noticed on the last pictures of the cab that you have a two X or + marks on each side, is that to help line everything up?
Quoted from Garrett:Anyone that says they don't make mistakes/have issues is full of crap
Rarely does anything turn out perfectly. As you've stated in your threads you get to a point where you say "I can live with it".
Thanks for the tips. I noticed on the last pictures of the cab that you have a two X or + marks on each side, is that to help line everything up?
They are part of the first stencil, they stay on when you pull it so you can line up the next one, very simple but genius set up.
Quoted from mrm_4:Trying to determine the red for the cab. I picked poppy on the left to stay in the satin sheen. My wife wants me to use apple on the right but clear coat over it with a satin clear to reduce the gloss. She thinks the apple is a better red.
[quoted image]
I forgot to give an update on this. I was able to find Apple Red in satin. I thought this color was only available in gloss but I was pleasantly surprised on a random trip to Ace.
EFBE5260-8ABA-4CDA-B062-D41760472BE5 (resized).jpegPrepping the final stencils. The devil is in the details, gotta mask all the gaps
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Blue went well!
D5CCC0AA-2770-4F96-9DC0-FCEA86417DD3 (resized).jpeg1CED606C-EEDB-4E09-B9CE-8FD087A4DB12 (resized).jpegB5295A2E-00C8-404C-B49D-89A0465B6AB7 (resized).jpegE8914BC1-C5D6-4416-8E96-E477B6B95233 (resized).jpeg061D1FEB-DFEA-462E-B128-1A7108379E30 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:Prepping the final stencils. The devil is in the details, gotta mask all the gaps
[quoted image]
Blue went well!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That head graphic might be one of my favorites.
Quoted from Garrett:You should be happy with the result, that looks great!
Thanks, I think it looks pretty good. This game in general needs to flip the colors. I feel like the White and Blue are backwards but overall other than the frame giving me a challenge with the fake wood crap, this part of the project was not too bad. Glad to move into the next phase.
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks, I think it looks pretty good. This game in general needs to flip the colors. I feel like the White and Blue are backwards but overall other than the frame giving me a challenge with the fake wood crap, this part of the project was not too bad. Glad to move into the next phase.
Some people like a pin to be original. If they are really limted runs or highly collectible then I agree, leave them so.
But when we talk about a popular title with a high production run then what's the harm in your idea about changing the cabinet paint?
I agree with you. A blue background would lend more to the overall space theme of the machine. Speckled with white stars as you did on your Strato-Flite would look very, very cool indeed. So go sand that cab back down
I'd say next time go with your gut! Take that creative freedom and run with it as you have a good eye.
I had gotten out of the hobby for some time and then Covid, so I haven't been to a pinball show in a long time. Next spring I really want to take my Aztec to the Michigan Pinball Show so people can play this title with a restored playing surface. Cupped inserts take a dramatic toll on intednded gameplay as well as the added friction from planking. The Aztec was a fairly fast game even with an organge peeled clearcoat and cupped inserts. After fixing and clear coating, amazing difference and it will absolutely test your reflexes. I like playing them as much as I do fixing them.
You do excellent work on the mechanical restoration as well. Nothing better than a pin that plays as snappy as it did when it was new.
I hope you can take one of your pins to a show one day and see how people react to it, I gurantee you'll get offers for it on the spot if the cabinet was blue or white!
Quoted from Garrett:Some people like a pin to be original. If they are really limted runs or highly collectible then I agree, leave them so.
But when we talk about a popular title with a high production run then what's the harm in your idea about changing the cabinet paint?
I agree with you. A blue background would lend more to the overall space theme of the machine. Speckled with white stars as you did on your Strato-Flite would look very, very cool indeed. So go sand that cab back down
I'd say next time go with your gut! Take that creative freedom and run with it as you have a good eye.
I had gotten out of the hobby for some time and then Covid, so I haven't been to a pinball show in a long time. Next spring I really want to take my Aztec to the Michigan Pinball Show so people can play this title with a restored playing surface. Cupped inserts take a dramatic toll on intednded gameplay as well as the added friction from planking. The Aztec was a fairly fast game even with an organge peeled clearcoat and cupped inserts. After fixing and clear coating, amazing difference and it will absolutely test your reflexes. I like playing them as much as I do fixing them.
You do excellent work on the mechanical restoration as well. Nothing better than a pin that plays as snappy as it did when it was new.
I hope you can take one of your pins to a show one day and see how people react to it, I gurantee you'll get offers for it on the spot if the cabinet was blue or white!
I took my Shangri La to Pinbrew in 2021 and it won Best EM, that was an amazing feeling! This year I took my Xenon, no award but a ton of people played it and talked to me all weekend about the game, never posed for so many selfies with people in front of a game before. My wife still makes fun of me haha.
Her: “Hey get a pic with me and your game!” 
Yeah sharing the games with people at shows is a blast!
I wonder if Williams flipped colors because the cab would’ve been too close to the Strato cab. Heck even a black cab would be awesome
Quoted from mrm_4:I took my Shangri La to Pinbrew in 2021 and it won Best EM, that was an amazing feeling! This year I took my Xenon, no award but a ton of people played it and talked to me all weekend about the game, never posed for so many selfies with people in front of a game before. My wife still makes fun of me haha.
Her: “Hey get a pic with me and your game!”
Yeah sharing the games with people at shows is a blast!
I wonder if Williams flipped colors because the cab would’ve been too close to the Strato cab. Heck even a black cab would be awesome
That's awesome! I didn't recall you stating that previously or missed that tid bit. Pinheads love it when they look as good as they play. Very cool.
When you bring a pin back to the level you do, it deserves the attention! I'd be taking pics too
1 week later
Quoted from Silverstreak02:Looks great. Do you have an update?
Thanks man! Coincidentally I plan on doing some work on the playfield tomorrow so good timing with your post. I wanted to let this game simmer while Ive been focusing on my Strato Flite resto but now im in a holding place with that game. I usually wait 2 months before waxing after I clear coat so Space Mission is ready and I have about 4 weeks for Strato Flite.
Ill post some updates tomorrow as I work on a few things.
I forgot how much of the bottom of this playfield I left unfinished because I needed to get the clear coating done.
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A few labels needed created and printed.
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I waxed the top side and mylared the pops area and rebuilt the pop bumpers.
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As much as I absolutely hate the look of the mylar I keep telling myself “it’s the right thing to do”
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I regretted it the moment I stood back. 9FCED4B5-C548-4AAF-A875-5E7503452835 (resized).jpeg
(Sigh) oh well I’ll tackle more of the bottom tomorrow. Need to get all the switches back in place along with the roll overs, all the mechs rebuilt and make a few more labels.
I tried to line the inside of the scoops with felt to soften the blow from the ball but I wasn’t able to get the plastic platform to sit in it properly. So I abandoned this idea. I’m really worried that during game one the ball is going to crack and chip the clear in the back of these holes. I might make a mod similar to the back of the same type of holes found on games like Firepower.
Made a shooter lane protector for the ball kick out area. Gives just enough of a lip to keep the ball off the clear.
I don’t trust clear coat for anything and anywhere the ball slams into an edge with clear is pretty much guaranteed to ghost, crack, chip, etc.
9DFD0889-935A-429D-B710-57D5F5773B1D (resized).jpeg518551EB-26C2-43BA-B761-E60D83221B05 (resized).jpeg92D89A3F-B1C3-44E7-B425-9FF22FA31087 (resized).jpegThis is my favorite part of the restoration!
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I’m putting washers under the posts to fill the void of the outer part of the post and the center of the post. This should help with any shenanigans that can happen with the clear coat. 18834C30-D886-4447-AF7B-87FBC6AE90D4 (resized).jpeg
I’m finished with all the posts and rubbers. Kept incandescents for the GI.
I need to replace the swinging target because it’s cracked and then finish rebuilding the kickers and flippers to finish the playfield.
EEA21CB0-FEC2-4EDB-9843-2107D5A02F59 (resized).jpeg089A5A84-05F0-43DF-8FA2-F3A74D12A28F (resized).jpeg30F4E284-7436-4C62-BCD6-661DA1EDF154 (resized).jpeg5F4D26B0-7306-44B0-813D-8741CAFAD64F (resized).jpeg66722993-AA5F-40CE-A133-D9A0DE387670 (resized).jpeg8C26BEFD-6EFB-4D91-A81A-64C7FAA2324F (resized).jpegThis lock down bar was ridiculous. 76FA1116-9ADB-4423-A67C-2A8A749BA572 (resized).jpegFF58E3E5-0570-41B5-8B5C-D64824AF0830 (resized).jpeg
Took it apart, hit it with a wire wheel on the drill, soaked the parts in Evaporust, then painted it with Rustoleum Hammered finish.
Love it now!
68AB3978-60C5-47D3-9DF6-7C5AF7AC4C1E (resized).jpegE9E0B5A5-2063-41AC-B8DA-E0E9A6D2C026 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:This is my favorite part of the restoration!
[quoted image]
I’m putting washers under the posts to fill the void of the outer part of the post and the center of the post. This should help with any shenanigans that can happen with the clear coat. [quoted image]
I’m finished with all the posts and rubbers. Kept incandescents for the GI.
I need to replace the swinging target because it’s cracked and then finish rebuilding the kickers and flippers to finish the playfield. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That’s one thing about the clear, the colors just pop! Looks great, it’s gonna play so fast!
Quoted from mrm_4:This is my favorite part of the restoration!
[quoted image]
I’m putting washers under the posts to fill the void of the outer part of the post and the center of the post. This should help with any shenanigans that can happen with the clear coat. [quoted image]
I’m finished with all the posts and rubbers. Kept incandescents for the GI.
I need to replace the swinging target because it’s cracked and then finish rebuilding the kickers and flippers to finish the playfield. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Anticipation!!!
Quoted from mrm_4:I tried to line the inside of the scoops with felt to soften the blow from the ball but I wasn’t able to get the plastic platform to sit in it properly. So I abandoned this idea. I’m really worried that during game one the ball is going to crack and chip the clear in the back of these holes. I might make a mod similar to the back of the same type of holes found on games like Firepower.
[quoted image]
I’m not sure if you should worry about the clear coat cracking at the kick out holes. I used 2pac on my game 6 years ago and haven’t seen any issues with cracking.
E8587B0D-C66B-4950-A86B-B2455066E6AE (resized).jpegQuoted from DanMarino:mrm_4, what size drill bits did you use most for pre-drilling out the screw holes for the posts and whatever wire rails you have? I'm going to begin assembling my Fireball EM this week.
Good timing to ask because I had to do that tonight. For the post all over the playfield I usually just take the bottom of a drill bit and find which size in my set will in the hole and then go the next size up and just hit the opening to make the clear coat open up.
For the ball guides I’ll match the size of the metal and drill into the hole but I always go in REVERSE on the drill.
These will never fit unless the holes are cleaned up.
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This one is 3/32
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I only drill in until I feel the resistance on the drill, that’s why I always go in reverse because I don’t want the bit to grab and pull the wood up or the clear away from the playfield. 57B9CE1D-34E7-45C6-9903-054BB3F91DC8 (resized).jpeg
Works like a charm every time.
58FC9A5D-D800-4EEC-925B-5DDDE8DE0C9F (resized).jpeg18FEC534-9622-4B96-8908-57BB2E60A57C (resized).jpegQuoted from Silverstreak02:I’m not sure if you should worry about the clear coat cracking at the kick out holes. I used 2pac on my game 6 years ago and haven’t seen any issues with cracking.
[quoted image]
That’s good to know about the clear holding up with the saucers on yours. I’ve had my share of heart breaks when it comes to clear. Take my Mata Hari always mocking me in the work shop. F53380D5-2026-4207-BEBF-63B0EAE05834 (resized).jpeg
My Firepower got messed up too in the trough and in the fronts of the saucers from the eject so I have no faith in clear anymore.
So this afternoon I was just staring at the game. I do this a ton with restos. I find myself just looking at them for a lot longer than most people probably do. I kind of have this thing where if I look at something long enough I eventually understand it. Engines, musical instruments, Rubik’s cube, whatever. Well it hit me, the same concept that I use in the shooter lane with the plastic just being on the lip to keep the ball from making impact but just flush enough to not alter its travel can be applied here but in a horizontal hoop.
So I measured the width and it’s dead on the money at 1/4”
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So I cut a 1/4” piece of my plastic and wrapped it inside the saucer and it lines up perfectly. Clears the eject arm and doesn’t intrude on the ball falling in or interrupt its path of travel.
7A5B670A-E39D-44C7-9562-33A6711B9C95 (resized).jpeg9C6A2053-EA08-461E-837B-C1C8FC1EF275 (resized).jpeg508D3CA1-5A38-4AF9-BF42-C71F0DEB9C9C (resized).jpeg
I used the double sided adhesive I have for all my decals to keep it from moving around although it basically holds itself in place.
41158EA6-AEA6-4E69-A53D-F5A5860EC229 (resized).jpeg1DF0495A-2BFE-4B51-A247-5F677C0E7D45 (resized).jpeg
Lastly I applied a tiny amount of felt at the exit so the ball slides off the felt instead of smacking up and over on the lip of the clear.
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Overkill? Ehhh probably but now I can sleep at night.
The swinging center target was broke so I decided to steal a target from my extra firepower parts bin.
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Added some foam behind it to help with the kick back
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Gave it some new wires
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Raised the center plastic with a few washers to avoid having it hit
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I finished up the bottom side of the playfield, finally got all the kicker and flipper mechs and pieces back into place.
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Also finished up all the trough area and got the outhole eject soldered back in.
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I’m on the fence about putting these back in. I’ll revisit that after I play the game.
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I think it’s ready for plastics now! 5D5F5FEF-F6DA-4304-BAA4-767E902B1400 (resized).jpeg
Putting new plastics on, I love new plastics and also new stainless acorns!
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Man I was on the fence about getting this game, didn’t think it looked that interesting.
This game looks sweet! The playfield looks like it could’ve been an early solid state game. I can’t wait to play it, never played one.
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