Nope. Totally wrong type of rivets. Correct ones have no pin and require special dies or a press to fasten. Gonna spend $$ getting the tools you need. There's several members who have the correct setup perhaps one will chime in and offer to do the work for you.

Edit- here's a member who's used the correct rivets. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-mustang-pro-mods-so-far/page/2#post-1606274

You can mail it to me and I will rivet for no charge.

^ there you go.

Yep, you want one of these.....image.jpg

http://tubularrivetclincher.yolasite.com/

Go with this style IMO. I have the PinRestore press and it's good, but don't think it's some outstanding upgrade over a cheap clamp. It's still based around a cheap Harbor Freight press and the dies don't line up 100% on mine. Does the job but it's not like moving from a cheapo crimper to the top end crimper then suddenly everything is amazing.

Try the following URL for some quality hand rivet squeezers from Hanson Rivet.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/hand-rivet-squeezers.htm

I purchased the following tool from Action Pinball in May of 2012 and have used it a handful of times and it works very well.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=RIVSET1

I don't think you can go too wrong with either tool, but if you hunt around you may likely find a less expensive rivet tool option that will also work for your needs.

Gord

I love tools, I own far more than I will ever need. But if you are only going to be doing a few rivets you can just form the rivets by hand with a hammer and drift.

You don't need to buy any special tool (or premade rivet for that matter).

Take a look at this site and you will see some simple hammer power to form the rivet.

http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

But you don't need to even buy this tool. You can just do it with a standard drift. It might not look as perfect as specially tool would make, but I don't think anyone would ever notice.

Ideally, you will be able to find the correct rivets, that will make you life much easier.

But, you can make rivet with any random piece of metal rod stock that will deform when hammered (not so hard that it will crack). Form a head on the rod with a hammer, cut the rivet off to the right length and peen the rivet head over on the other side with a hammer, DIY rivet. You can also find a nail with a right size head on it and cut it off and use it as a ready made rivet. The rivet does not need to a have a hollow tube on the back side, just hammer the end so it is upset (you are doing on a smaller scale what old riveters did when they constructed a building using riveted steel beams.)

The correct tools and pre-made rivets will make the job go much quicker, but if you are only doing a few it will probably take you less time to just use common tools and material compared to finding and ordering specially items that you will use only a few times.

Where did you end up purchasing it from, on the website says they are out of stock ?

I think that guy custom makes all those by hand...I'd shoot them an email.

I redid my theatre of magic ones with the hammer method. Worked great once I figured out what the hell I was doing.

Website still works for me. They did take a while to get me mine--I think they custom make each one. There is a phone number there as well

This is active now on ebay. I purchased one five years ago and use it more than the fancy press version from pinrestore.arivit.jpg

I would expect another one listed soon. I seems it's relisted about a week or less after each sale

Although convenient the pressless rivets can loosen up over time and in some cases the rivet (since it has to be longer to put the washer on) won't fit under the ramp. I'm not saying not to use them, just recognize they're not as good a solution as a tubular rivet.

The Gameroom collectibles GRC guys did a tech video on rivets. I have no experience myself but remember Ray saying some of the special tools sold suck and no arbor press was used. Check there videos out on you tube some good stuff.

The tool in the above video is available at pinrestore.com for $28. Probably the most difficult thing is to determine the proper length rivet to use. Pin Restore also sells a decent rivet "Starter Kit" for $30 which includes washers for use when the rivet rolled over ends will be against plastic. In my video above, I demonstrate with plated steel rivets. Note that Pin Restore rivets are plated brass and will roll over with less force.

http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

that vid does not show the other side of the rivet, most likely have a flat spot from the vice

I have read that a soft block of wood will work if you do not have the concave tool (rivet head tool) that was not used in the video.

Here is some more info on riveting that may be helpful:

http://home.earthlink.net/~billg4me/pinball/rivet/

I use steel rivets and yes if you look close you could tell it was impacted by a flat surface. Expect the brass ones would show more. A piece of hardwood wood soften it.

Once you have everything in place and tighten it a little it should stay aligned better (just guessing). It does not seem as well made as the third-hand rivet tool, which sadly is no longer available.

Hard to tell specifically from your photo, but is that rivet sitting on the table a solid core rivet? No way you can crimp a solid core rivet. Rivets to be used should be the semi-tubular type....or am I missing something?

At one point I think pinrestore.com was looking at something similar to the third-hand rivet tool, but I don't know what happened. Maybe shoot them an email.