Quoted from mdeslaur:

#380
Options email: 2022-03-16
Invoice: 2022-03-28, #4849

Quoted from mdeslaur:

I haven't had time to investigate yet, but is the start button supposed to light up? Is there an ETA on a manual for this game?

Quoted from rotordave:

Here is a post I did in the ACNC thread. Works mint. I’ll be doing it again on my HW.
<pasted>
Ok … ages ago I said I would build up a sub box and port the cabinet on my Spooky games, to stop the glass rattling.
Last night I finally got around to it.
Stage 1 - Port the cabinet!
~ The glass rattling is because the sub is creating waves of air in the cabinet, and the air has nowhere to go. A lot of bass comes off the BACK of bass speakers. That’s why pro PA bass cabinets are ported in some way - half the sound comes out the ports, not the front of the speaker as you’d think.
So - drill some holes! I chose a 2 1/4” hole saw and went to work. I drilled the holes at the rear of the speaker - reasonably close, so the sides of a sub box would cover them. (You want the holes inside the sub box, of course …)
Here is the result!
[quoted image]
The result of these holes - all bass rattle has gone.
I turned the amp bass up full. Still no rattle.
You know at the start of each ACNC ball - if you leave the ball in the shooter lane the background music has a pulsing bass … this usually shakes the machine like crazy. Now - nothing. Sounds cool. No added mechanical noises that we can notice.
Cosmetically, it just needs some mesh stapled over the holes (if you care about such things)
Cost of this mod …. $0.
A free mod in pinball! WTF!
Priceless.
Now to me, I’m happy with the result and I may leave it as is.
However - one day I may be bored and whip up a sub box to see what happens. My prediction would be that the bass output would increase, and the bass would be tighter, as the box hastens the exit of the sound from the cabinet (rather than it swirling around inside the cabinet). Maybe I’ll make one. One day.
So - go drill some holes!
Enjoy.
rd

Quoted from dnaman:

A friend just received his HWCE and the two lower hedge Michaels fast shake on power up until after the boot up and then they will go back to fast shaking while playing. 1.06b is now installed and no change. Is this relating to the long wiring all being lopped up and zip tied or is there something else to check?
Thanks.

Quoted from SpookyBug:

Fawzma is sitting across the table from me coding the autoplunge in right now! We'll likely throw a 1.07A up in the near future here with a couple fixes and this feature as well. As far as the game restart at the start button goes, this was implemented in a previous code update so it should be there for you. At the start of a new ball hold the start button for about 5 to 7 seconds and it'll reset to ball 1. In the patch we do, we will put this as an option in the menu.

Quoted from Newtothis:

I didn't even know that was a thing. What games does that work on?

Quoted from Completist:

I have purposely not watch any gameplay video yet which means i have no clue what i’m doing. I will catch up with that soon but the first gameplay is all part of my unboxing experience. [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pinman502:

Just curious if the start button is supposed to light up? Mine did not come with a LED in it.

Quoted from PanzerKraken:

Yea that's strange to happen to two people so close to each other
Do all the Halloweens use the same mini pc so far? Thought I saw someone mention not having one?

Quoted from mdeslaur:

Mine doesn't have that mini pc, it's got some type of raspberry pi in it.

Quoted from timtim:

I thought these had pinotar boards or whatever?
Or does the pc handle something else?

Quoted from John_C:

Here are a few pics showing how the Michael servo wiring is run. You can see that I used some split-loom tubing to conceal the wiring between each of the servos and where the wire bundle goes down into and through the playfield.

Quoted from kciaccio:

That's is the question isn't it?
Seems like every 50 games one of these need replacing.
Be nice to find a replacement and be done for a couple years.

Quoted from John_C:

Hi folks,
Just posting this for those owners who have acquired their machines recently and may have broken or cracked ball deflector shields.
Replace that flimsy, cracked, or broken ball deflector shield with this redesigned, heavy-duty version. For all Spooky Halloween and Ultraman machines, these new deflector shields are machine cut from 3/16-inch thick polycarbonate. They will not vibrate, bounce, or break due to ball impacts. Included are detailed instructions and new posts to replace the existing posts under the left side of the shield.
I have 23 of these shield kits left and that will be it.
Here is a link to my ad: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/164797
Contact me via PM for further details. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Betelgeuse:

Usually, it's the transmitter that fails. With some digital cameras/cell phone cameras, you can see the light from the LED on the transmitter just like any other LED. This is the first thing I check for when I suspect an opto issue.