Halloween (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jb007gd.
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Quoted from freakyvideoguy:I'd be interested in this too if you did a small run!
Same here!
Quoted from movingpictures:We were getting 100% rejects on the scoop and it was insanely frustrating.
Made this scoop hood from PETG and the majority of direct shots from the flipper now actually go in the scoop [quoted image][quoted image]
That's brilliant! I'd love to order one of these if you make a batch.
Quoted from McDoom:Is there a way to turn down the intensity of the shaker motor? Feels like Michael is breaking through the cabinet every time it goes off lol.
I called Spooky and AJ said this needs to be done in the code, and that's not implemented yet. It sounded like this was a low priority. Maybe call them too? They seem pretty responsive to customer feedback so maybe the more they hear about it the faster they'll work on it.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:No glass, never heard that one before lol. Glass was on. 3 ball. Factory settings. Normal tilt. Also, this isn’t the first time I did this on ball one haha. Loving the game. Not easy by any stretch but when I’m on…I’m on.
Any tips for hitting the hedge shots reliably? For the life of me I just haven't figured out how to dial in those shots. Can't backhand any of them. I can backhand the left orbit and the blood drop near Mike 3 bit all the other hedge shots are right flipper only and man, I'm struggling to get my groove with them. I REALLY want to hit those hurry ups!
Quoted from Lpilot1:I don’t like it. It’s too much. Wish I could turn it down some.
Please email Spooky and ask for that.
I called and spoke with AJ (for a separate issue, but I mentioned the shaker) and he said it's something which would need to be coded and it didn't seem to be high on the priority list. I asked that he pass my request along; the more people who ask the better!
Quoted from SpookyLuke:Killer job on this!
I see what you did there...
Quoted from Wariodolby:Finally installed anti rattle tape.
Total game changer!
Highly recommend if you have the shaker or not.
Couldn't agree more! I used my tape on the left side of the coinbox and both sides of the glass. Much better!
Quoted from Beechwood:What is this tape you speak of? That rattle is annoying! The glass slides in ok with it on?
Yep, the glass slides in just fine!
https://www.pinballlife.com/anti-rattle-tape-12-x-25-ft.html?Category_Code=
Quoted from Beechwood:Love the pin so far, but I agree. I'm sick and tired of explaining to people there is not a monkey in the game. It really has to go
I FINALLY figured out the sound you're referring to! I thought that audio was Laurie walking through the house terrified, maybe when she was bumping into all the bodies Michael had stashed. Damn, now I'll have to rewatch the movie to find that sound...
Quoted from arcyallen:I thought the sound was when Laurie walks into the bedroom with her friend on the bed with the tombstone over her head. Maybe we're talking about different sounds. I just watched the movie last week and thought "There it is!"
Found it! You are correct!
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Sell a couple games and buy it! These prices aren’t gonna stay below msrp for long. After October’s code update it will likely start going up.
Are there any teasers out there for what the October code update might contain?
Quoted from dnapac:I think, Boogeyman is the last wizard mode. Spooky made it accessible in the menu so bad players like me can play it. If you haven’t finished it…you are in for a treat. I’ve never heard a knocker used so well…best use ever!
Couldn't help it!
Quoted from TonLoc777:I just purchased CE #46 from a friend and currently experiencing some issues. Has anyone else had smoke coming out of the middle playfield during sanitarium multi ball? The game just recently had the pinotaur board replaced and worked great for 3 games. Upon inspection I can see that there are some dark burn marks on the board. The game fires up but stays in the calibrating switches phase. You def cannot start a game, but all the high scores and normal spooky ads are scrolling on the screen as usual. This will be the 3rd time the board has fried from what I understand from the previous owner. Any ideas on what could be causing this issue to re occur? It looks like it is running older code currently. Would this cause that sort of issue? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Oh my goodness, that is frightening to see. If that was my machine I'd contact Spooky directly and work with them all the way through troubleshooting and repair. As I'm sure you've read multiple times here, their customer service is excellent. Good luck and stay safe!
Quoted from Coindork:I don’t understand what I’m supposed to be seeing in this photo. Is there something wrong with it that I’m not immediately picking up?
The discoloration on the pumpkin is indicative of the powder coat wearing off prematurely. It's been reported by now than a few owners. Spooky will send replacement parts but folks have mentioned the replacements have a slightly different color and therefore don't match the rest of the powder coating on the game.
Quoted from insight75:Is this latest movie really the last one?
If it makes money they will make more, just like the Terminator franchise did.
But Jamie Lee Curtis says this is it for her and I do believe she means it. She's been the true Halloween scream queen for 44 years and at some point I've got to imagine she's reached her fill. She's a legend.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Checked out Halloween Ends - loved it! I get why people didn’t like it quite as much (Friday the 13th part V) but I thought it was a really interesting way to go. Total 80s vibes at times too. Soooooooooo much better than the vast majority of the sequels. Doesn’t have the Carpenter atmosphere but nobody can copy that. Definitely not as good as 2018 but definitely worth seeing
Same here, I thought it was really good! A fitting ending. Of course the viewer has to suspend disbelief pretty heavily but what the hell, it's a slasher movie and we've got to accept some loose ends (looking at you, all the kids at the junkyard) aren't going to get tied up. I also liked the music playing at the grocery store and at the end of the movie - ties in with our pinball machine nicely! 
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:For all the Carpenter fans…the Escape from New York and Halloween sections absolutely SHRED in this medley. If someone can figure out how to get this version into the game I’ll lose my mind.
HELL YEAH!!!
lpeters82 check that out, right around the 3:45 mark. Imagine that in a wizard mode!!!
Quoted from PanzerKraken:You got to go across the balcony bridge again from what I recall to get the full bewbs
I'm embarrassed that I know this off the top of my head but yes, I can confirm that is correct.
Quoted from djsolzs:I did that - maybe I didnt look up soon enough. When does the full scene show?
It starts when the ball is held in that metal tray with the magnet. Then the ball comes down the right wire rail and you have to be careful it doesn't drain right past your flipper while you're busy looking at the boobs.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Halloween III target decals (2nd batch), went out yesterday. 25 more people including the Canadian requests, in addition to the first 30 people last week. The second batch we printed on a different decal paper, and they turned out great. So feel free to hit me up for free extras if you were part of the first batch.
Thanks for all the interest!
5 more days till Halloween…[quoted image][quoted image]
Hey! I'm in the second batch; is the Judith Myers decal part of the assortment?
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Opening scene in the movie. The death of Judith Myers. Might be another reason for adult mode.
I wonder if that was what Spooky was talking about when they said they had an idea for how to use Judith's Tombstone?
Quoted from thekaiser82:https://spooky-pinball.s3.amazonaws.com/hwn/1.09/code_H78.pkg
Should be publicly accessible with unlimited downloads.
That's so cool! Pinside community coming together to make the magic happen. thekaiser82 thank you!
jk2171 thank you for graciously uploading and sharing the code with me!
You know the warning noise and flashing lights when the ball is about to come up from the subway?
On my right side (Dr Loomis) I get that warning noise/flashing lights one or two times after the ball already came up. It doesn't do this every time but it's common enough that it happens every game and it's only on the right side.
Any idea on how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks!
Quoted from SDVmnt:Go into servo test and check it
I did that and it seems to work just fine. I played the game with the coin door open and watched the elevator. After successfully elevating the ball (lol) on the times it's acting up it definitely goes through the process again, even though there's no ball.
I'm guessing that means the optos are incorrectly telling it there's a ball in the path? How would I test that please?
Quoted from MegaFeenix:I had this problem a lot out of the box on the same lift. It seems to be more on the programming side would be nice if you could add half seconds to the time the optics wait to read so it doesn’t mistake the lift itself for a second ball. I adjusted my sensors to be lined up and as high as possible while still being in the spot. Now it barely ever happens. I still notice it but much less often now.
Huh, that's interesting! See, mine didn't have this problem out of the box so I assumed something changed over time that caused this. I'm new to troubleshooting pinball machines; could you tell me how you went about adjusting the sensors?
Quoted from gregcube:After 2000+ games my lower hedge michael servo finally died. Is there some secret to disconnecting the servo wire from this adapter piece? I can't seem to get it unplugged for the life of me. Otherwise it looks like a pretty easy swap.
[quoted image]
Once you get some slack on the wires it'll come apart pretty easily. If I recall correctly there's a zip tie you can cut to get slack. Otherwise follow the wire underneath the playfield and you'll be able to free up some of the extra wire.
Quoted from jb007gd:You know the warning noise and flashing lights when the ball is about to come up from the subway?
On my right side (Dr Loomis) I get that warning noise/flashing lights one or two times after the ball already came up. It doesn't do this every time but it's common enough that it happens every game and it's only on the right side.
Any idea on how to troubleshoot this?
Thanks!
How many Halloween owners are experiencing this?
I called Spooky and AJ sent me replacement optos. I installed them and it didn't make the issue go away. I did notice the way the holes are drilled on the playfield makes them not line up perfectly. I adjusted one opto by removing a screw so I could rotate it towards the other one; that maybe helped a little but the issue is still there.
IMG_20230220_141755 (resized).jpgIMG_20230220_141910 (resized).jpgQuoted from John_C:Many folks, myself included, have noticed significant changes in the audio requiring a look at amplifier settings, adjusting volume levels, etc. During my own troubleshooting efforts to improve the sound, I came across what I believe to be a serious issue.
Looking at the subwoofer connections from the amplifier (located in the bottom of the cabinet below the subwoofer), I noted that both the left and right channels were both connected directly to the single voice coil terminals on the subwoofer speaker. This kind of wiring gives you a parallel connection-level output.
This practice should be avoided because both channels will be seen as a short to each other, which is a fault condition. The problem is that the two channels can have opposing polarity voltages at any given instant - Obviously, since the two outputs have distinct sound signals. Since they are opposing, current will be driven back into one or the other speaker outputs of the amp. This will heat up the output stages of the amp causing it to run hotter, making it vulnerable to heat damage over time. And needless to say, this kind of connection deteriorates the quality of sound the speaker produces.
What I did to correct this was remove the right channel connections going to the subwoofer from the back of the amp and leaving the left channel connections in place. This ensures that only a mono signal is sent to the single voice coil of the subwoofer.
After correcting my subwoofer wiring, I spent some time further dialing in the sound. I can say that the sound is significantly improved. The sub is no longer boomy or over-powering the backbox speakers. I was also able to get the amplifier knobs properly set so that I am able to get more useable “range” in the speaker settings, allowing more granular adjustments of the sound levels.
And "Don't Fear the Reaper" freakin ROCKS !!!
Below is a pic of my current sound amplifier settings. Imagining a scale of 1 to 10, I have my knobs set as follows:
- Sub Volume: Approximately 2 or so. This is a tough one to get dialed in as there is very little useable range in the knob between adding bass and it suddenly becoming too much.
- X-Over: 5
- Treble: 9 (I like a lot)
- Base: 4
- Volume: 3
Hope this helps.
[quoted image]
John_C if I'm understanding you currently, the solution is to disconnect one of the two channels going from the amp to the sub, is that correct?
I understand the concern with having both channels connected if the amp isn't meant to be bridged but what I don't know is how it will handle only outputting a signal to the sub from one channel. Does that not also cause an imbalance?
Would adding a dual voice coil sub be the preferred solution?
Quoted from Beechwood:KILLER!
I see what you did there 
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Cleveland, OH