Halloween (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider geeterman1.
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Hi all, just joined the club today and this is my first pin so I’m a complete newbie. I picked up a gently used (looks to be in perfect condition) and I noticed my topper isn’t working when I set it up. Upon further inspection one of the wires (pink) came off the connection likely due to my 5 year old aggressively ripping the wrap off the machine.
Is this wire just soldered on?
C1C6E5DA-EE52-4027-8A5B-14F21B49D824 (resized).pngSorry, another really stupid question. Is there a proper way to shut off the machine? Now that these new machines are like computers I’m wondering if using the power switch at any time is still ok like on the older machines.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I was having some issues with the three center drop targets either not dropping all the way or not dropping at all with a solid hit. No issues with the other drops.
I pulled the springs and discovered the center drops have a shorter spring than the other three separate drops. I switched springs and sure enough, the single drop springs worked great. I reached out to Spooky for new center drop target springs.
There was a similar issue with the Scolari brothers drops in GB fixed with new springs.
Edit: The good spring, as confirmed by Spooky, is a 10-364.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html
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Is this a really easy change? I’ve never changed anything on a pinball machine but I have to imagine this is as simple as it gets and want to change these out as mine don’t always drop.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Easy is a relative term. If you’re new and have never messed with a pinball machine, I’d be very careful.
I’d recommend you lift the playfield and check out the drop target mech. Take a look at the springs. The outer springs are easy to access, but the middle one will require you to unscrew the entire mech. If you feel comfortable, give it a shot. If it looks too intimidating, I’d wait. And always make sure the game is powered off before messing with anything.
Appreciate the guidance. I’ll buy some art blade guards and springs and take a look.
What does it take to unscrew the mech? Standard screw driver?
Quoted from Mudflaps:Updated cards, feel free to download!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aluz31rgcwqsayp/Halloween%201.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0vu42xdoycrbegx/Halloween%202.png?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hp62xa7fj7rebnk/Halloween%203.png?dl=0
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These are awesome! I’ll probably print them this weekend.
Quoted from McIntyre905:Sorry about the noise
I've noticed this happens now whenever you sink a hedge none of the other knives do this and it's the only time it doesn't light up
Do you already have another mode active? Does the game recognize you hit that scoop?
Quoted from Mudflaps:Cards installed. [quoted image]
Looks fantastic. Where’s the best place to get quality prints done?
My right flipper has appeared to drop in angle, the pin hole is clearly visible and it seems to be getting worse over time. I’ve watched some videos on under playfield flipper adjustments, but is there anything special I need to consider for this machine? It’s driving me nuts and I want to try to adjust this tonight.
Quoted from Lopa:Easy fix just test it before you put the glass back on to make sure it hits the shots it needs to. It hours without saying that this should be done with the game off.
This ended up being tougher than I expected. I had to hold the bolt still with a hex driver tip because the screw driver wouldn’t fit in that space while using a socket to tighten the other side. Twice I thought I had it right enough but nope, kept coming loose during play.
Ended up learning a lot though. I also changed one spring on the drop targets but I really am lost on how to access the other two.
Quoted from guitarded:A set of Long Needlenose Pliers.
I considered it but am afraid/intimidated of flinging the stock spring off and not being able to get a new one on.
Quoted from blastbeat:Lots of this in pinball for me lol. MFing things quite frequently on repairs. There's enough resources and help from good people to eventually get things back alive.
I’m new to the hobby and this community and am amazed at how helpful everyone is.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Hey everyone, when the playfield is up, for maintenance, how tall is it compared to other manufacturers? Sterns in particular.
My basement ceiling is low, and with JJPs, I can’t even raise the playfield vertical without lowering the game. I experienced his with DE G&R too. But Srerns are fine, I’ve been able to raise the playfield vertically on Sterns.
Is Spooky like a Stern, or is it taller with the playfield raised?
Thx.
This is my first game so I don’t have anything to compare it to, but I took this picture last night.
19D46675-CAEA-4D1D-A031-D41FB8BA8BAC (resized).jpegQuoted from BallyKISS1978:I like how you painted the Etsy Michael head. Do you have more pics? I didn’t paint mine.
I’m actually the second owner of this machine, it came with it. I believe the original owner had a friend paint it for him. I really like how it looks.
What’s the purpose of throwing a blanket over the glass, especially in a basement where I imagine there’s zero sun?
Quoted from zebpin61:Logical answers - there's still sunlight and plenty of dust. Real answer - they're my babies!!! Got to tuck them in. Lastly, it's another way to keep unwanted guests from playing a game unless it's "presented".
Gotcha. Makes sense.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Enjoy some less-TMI cards! DropBox folder link attached.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pu34poo2xf58p35/AAC9ZxHHXom8Dgc2ox5Nm9oKa?dl=0
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I might print them all and rotate out every now and then. Love them.
Quoted from SpookyBug:Fawzma is sitting across the table from me coding the autoplunge in right now! We'll likely throw a 1.07A up in the near future here with a couple fixes and this feature as well. As far as the game restart at the start button goes, this was implemented in a previous code update so it should be there for you. At the start of a new ball hold the start button for about 5 to 7 seconds and it'll reset to ball 1. In the patch we do, we will put this as an option in the menu.
Weird, I’m on 1.06 and this reset doesn’t work for me…
Quoted from Geeterman1:Weird, I’m on 1.06 and this reset doesn’t work for me…
Nevermind, updated to 1.07 and now it works. Nice option for newbs like myself.
Quoted from Nstone4425:My powder coat fix.
My local powder coater said for 50 he would spray with a clear coat or for 150 he would strip the 4 pieces down and re powder coat.
So 150 it is for the lock down bar, both side armor rails, and the shooter rod plate.
Couldn't be happier.
This is my plan. Mine isn’t showing anywhere but if it ever does I’ll just get it recoated locally.
Quoted from John_C:I wonder how difficult it is to match the gold-vein coating on the existing pieces.
I think somebody found that it’s a standard color. If that’s the case, shouldn’t be hard to match class enough.
Quoted from Lpilot1:Is the Smith's Grove Sanitarium Warren County sign that’s on the fence of the lower playfield supposed to be on the front facing fence or side facing? Is there supposed to be a sign on both fences? One fence has a gate, the other one does not. Thanks!
Mine is on the front to the right of the gate.
Quoted from Mudflaps:Graduation weekend. Tons of people over, Halloween is a huge hit. Very happy with the game so far.
The light board under the Sanitarium has now broken for the third time, though. The ball launched into the shooter lane somehow jumps and snaps the connection. Sigh. I’ll have to readjust the board so it’s not sitting in the ball’s path.
I’m curious how your machine is getting frequent airballs under there. Knock on wood, I’ve been spared of this issue so far.
Quoted from Lpilot1:Thought I’d put this out to the group that has improved my gaming experience. MRS switch on the right side of the orbit is a must. I also noticed my left and right slings were not sensitive enough as sometimes the balls would tap them and they wouldn’t react. I adjusted the leaf switches on both slings so now they are much more sensitive and has made the game for me much better. Just thought I’d put that out there.
Which MRS switch are you talking about and what did you do? I haven’t had any issues with the orbit registering.
Quoted from Roostking:I don't know the details about the switch itself but if you see the play field stripped the right orbit switch is really not centered inside the orbit and it's not registering for some people. That switch takes care of it but it doesn't sound like you're one of those people having an issue
Ok, that makes sense. I’ve read of people having that issue but wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.
Quoted from Mundy53:Clear plastic bridge over the drop targets broke on the right side and is hanging down. I’m assuming it’s required to protect the drops from air balls and can’t just be removed. Is it common enough that I need to figure out a way to beef this up from happening again in the future?
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Yes, it’s happened to many of us and my guess is that by a hundred or so games they all break. I emailed spooky about it and they said it’s fine broken on the right like that as it still does the job, and I tend to agree. The only downside is how flimsy it is now as any contact with a nearby target has it shaking.
Somebody in this thread built their own protector out of larger plastic.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:How many plays on it before it broke?
I was probably at 100 or less when I noticed mine was broken.
I find the Loomis voice to be fine, the kid voice on the other hand…. Not that it’s off, just annoying lol. “Get back out there buddy!” This is hardly a deal breaker, though.
I actually love some of the Loomis voice lines. “HE WAS DOING SO WELL LAST NIGHT!”
Anybody have an issue where the upper playfield drop target goes down after one hit but doesn’t pop back up? Normally when I hit the drop target Laurie takes damage and and then it pops right back up. Now I hit it once, it drops, it stays red and Laurie doesn’t take damage. Any thoughts?
It does go back up on a new ball.
Quoted from RussMyers:Throw the game into Switch Test and pop that target up and down - does it register in both positions as active/inactive?
RM
How do I pop the target up while in switch test mode? I popped it up in the coil settings and then manually popped it down with my finger while in switch test and nothing registered. I did the same with the center drop targets and they all registered so the switch isn’t registering when the drop target is going down?
Any idea what type of switch this is and how to fix?
Quoted from RussMyers:OK, you'll have to take the balls out and raise the playfield up so you can access the underside of that area.
You can see the bottom of that drop target when the playfield is in the full upright position and leaning against the backbox.
That target has a plastic flange that passes between a U-shaped opto switch in (I think) the down position.
I had the problem in my UM where it would not register when the flange was supposed to be breaking the infrared opto beam because the translucent plastic was allowing the beam to pass through instead of blocking it. I had to paint the flange black. That may be your issue, or something else may be not working with that opto switch.
RussM
Thanks for the tips. The strange thing is that it has worked up until this point. Was yours working previously and then stopped?
Quoted from RussMyers:Mine never worked AFAICT.
You can also check the function of the U opto by passing a black piece of paper through it.
RM
Got it. I hope my issue is as easy as that. I’ll test it with paper later today and paint as needed.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I think I got it this time. Light board repositioned, screw and rubber removed. I used double sided 3M tape followed by hot glue as a sealant. I loosened the Sanitarium playfield to allow some area to work.
Notice how far the light board was in the shooter lane before I moved it.
Before:
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After:
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Huge difference there. Hoping this becomes a permanent fix for you, it would drive me nuts.
I’m not sure I understand. How does the diverter impact the ball getting up there? Seems like by the time the ball hits that diverter it would have already made it up?
Or is the ball getting up there and then getting knocked back down? That would be interesting and something I’ve never noticed.
Quoted from lpeters82:If the diverter is out of alignment it would hit the diverter as it's trying to push though that metal flap, thus causing a reject. In the test menu with the diverter set to make ramp (which send the ball to the left) you want the diverter positioned as close to the center ramp as possible, without overhanging the center ramp opening. The height of the middle drop targets makes a huge difference.
Good to know. Mine looks like it could be moved just a tad. Maybe I’ll try that tonight.
House timer replaced by Laurie’s health ticking down? Love that! Actually gives purpose to adding health for Laurie.
Quoted from Pinman502:Is it normal to hear a mild hum from the flipper coil while you hold the flipper up?
I think I’ve read it’s normal. Mine does this.
Quoted from Pinkitten:My hedge Michael closest to the flippers stopped working. He’s just stuck leaning forward, peeking around the bushes, and won’t go back behind them. Any ideas? Is this a common problem?
Also, does anyone else feel the Judith Myers shot progress should carry over from ball to ball? It doesn’t, right? You have to hit that shot 3 times to qualify the lock, but if you lose a ball, start over again? It’s one of the hardest shots to hit, for me at least. I’ve only locked a ball in there about 3-4 times in about 30 games. Seems like a 2-ball feature like that should be more common. Do other people get that ball lock frequently? A setting to allow progress to carry over would be awesome!
Lastly, when I start a new game quickly while the match segment is playing, I get “missed skill shot” nearly every time. Is a switch being triggered when the drop targets reset or something? If I give the game a few seconds before starting a new game, that doesn’t happen.
Happened to me once. I took the glass off and pushed his ass back behind the hedge and he’s worked fine ever since.
Quoted from finnflash:I would assume it thinks one of the drops fell, not having the game I'm not sure how the clear targets are recognized. But I thought someone said there is something dark to block the opto, I would check there first.
Yea. There is a rubber cover at the bottom of each drop target. If that falls off, like it did on mine, it won’t recognize the drop target positions correctly.
Easy extra ball? Am I missing something? Do you get an extra ball for completing a mode?
Quoted from Mudflaps:I like the new update, some good bug fixes. Now Annie doesn’t get cut off before Hedge MB. The blood store music is great. House Attack is much better, now it feels like a battle with Laurie’s health set to Hard.
I recommend you tweak the last Hard mode… it’s the easiest mode to finish and always the first one I go for. That and Death in the Driver(s) Seat make for an easy extra ball.
Keep it up!
Just put in my review. I’m a new to this hobby and waited to put in my review until I had something to compare to. I finally setup my Godzilla pro and can now compare the two.
Imo, if Godzilla is considered God tier than Halloween is pretty darn good. Each machine does some things better than the other, but that’s why I like my Halloween machine. It’s quite obviously different than any other game out there and isn’t that what you want when building a collection?
After seeing the Godzilla animations, I can’t wait for the Halloween update.
Happy to have it in my small but growing collection.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Burnt rootbeer anyone? A few prelim shots as the game is absolutely sick in this color...sparkly, goldish brown with lights on. Then ominous deep brown in the dark.
Couldnt be happier!!! Ran out of time to add the EL to pumpkin flipper areas today, but will post complete shots when I finish ( matching the oranges to the backboard leds was a PITA).
Might offer the EL kits if interest is there ( the invertor I use is more commercial in nature so it doesn't melt over time like the plastic cubes)
Machine visuals have officially entered badass ...( for me, anyway)...had to share...
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Looks fantastic! I have a stupid question, what is EL?
Also, how hard is it to get the speaker surround off the machine. I’m contemplating changing my powdercoat but I’m worried about that part.
Quoted from MK6PIN:EL= electroluminescent...in this case, paper. Note the spooky logo...I'll be lighting the pumpkin flipper button areas too, just ran out of time today...gives a nice " glow" to those areas. Think another pinsider in this thread posted his already...
If you're referring to the pumpkin speaker covers, they just come off easy when you take the speakers themselves out.
Overall, pretty straightforward if you take your time...don't think I'd recommend it for someone as a first project though...
That’s pretty sick. Is it literally just paper that glows?
Sorry, didn’t mean the pumpkin covers but that entire back piece that the speakers, screen, etc. are connected to. The back panel. Is that easy to remove everything off of and then take off the machine?
Quoted from MK6PIN:Sort of, but a PITA and specific ways to work w it..
The back panel is also just screwed to hinges...just a fair amount of stuff to take off....11/32 nutdriver, take pics, and go at it......slowly...
Quoted from FattyPinner:I'm not sure. I'll have to look into how to measure that. Thanks for the tip!
Download the Pinguy app on your phone, that’ll measure it. That isn’t the issue here though, it’s definitely the plastic.
All of a sudden my ball is getting stuck on the right inlane on the metal subway flap, the flap seems to be raised a bit too high. My board is pitched at exactly 6.5. Anybody have any solutions on this?
Quoted from dnapac:Loosen the screw. It’s too tight and keeping the flap slightly raised…or just bump the pin and the ball will roll loose (if you’re too lazy like me)
I have a very stupid question, how do I loosen these posts? Is it just from under the playfield?
Yeah, but how do I actually loosen the post? I removed the lock nut on the top hoping that would do something but the post was still firmly in place.
Quoted from RussMyers:You have to take the slingshot plastic assembly completely off.
The top lock nuts just hold the slingshot plastic (and wireform ramp end for the one on the left)
You can loosen the post once the plastics are out of the way.
RM
Got it, thank you! I have a nut driver set but looks like I’ll need a mini wrench set or that titan wrench that was mentioned to tackle this.
Also, I know similar stories have been told here multiple times but I had two friends over yesterday (pinball newbs) and they were both drawn to Halloween over my Godzilla Pro all night.
The Godzilla was barely touched and the Halloween was played for hours straight…
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:No, if I blast them head on the down go down. The only thing that works is a light tap shot. I don’t personally mind it as it adds some extra element of technique for me…but the noobs hate it haha
Yes. I have this issue. If you have a lower number build then drop springs are “looser” for lack of a better term. You can change the springs out or pull the stock ones down a few rings. I changed out one spring myself but the other two seem very hard to get to.
Quoted from lpeters82:We do test for that by tossing and shooting balls around each orbit and also making sure the "super exit" from them middle playfield doesn't go SDTM. My suggestion would be with the glass off to start toss and shooting balls around the orbit. With a blunt object some pressure on the end of the orbit should guide the ball further towards the left. If you need the ball to kick out further to the left a small guide outward can help, but my first suggestion is actually to press inwards about an inch upwards from the end of the orbit. That sounds counter intuitive, but what I've seen most often is the ball jumps off the orbit bend too early so it misses the bend. Since we're on orbit adjustments the easiest way to adjust the right orbit is by moving the slack from the rubber on the side of the Judith Tombstone. More slack towards the orbit will send the ball further left. More slack towards the inside will send the ball further right.
With the playfield up (balls out) you can access all of the springs pretty easily with a needle nose plyers to tighten them up. Replacing them is a bit more tricky. Worst case it's not that many screws to pull off the whole drop target mech. Just be careful with the lights. If you don't hold them your drill will probably break the wire connection off of them once they are disconnected.
My fear is flinging a spring off into oblivion with the pliers while trying to tighten them.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:In an effort to go after pinside maligned pins that actually fully and completely kick 100% ass I’m picking up an ALIEN SV and the 2D Translite mod on Thursday! F’n AMPED to put this right next to HWN!
Let us know what you think. Alien SV is on my short list but I’m worried about reliability. I’m a complete newb to this stuff.
I’m really hoping for a new code in early October. I know some are predicting it on Halloween but the season starts now, and abruptly turns to Thanksgiving on November 1st.
Quoted from Pinkitten:My wife makes really creative drop and stand up target decals. I love the 3 from Halloween III suggested above. I’m going to have her make some sheets of them on decal paper. I’ll post pics, and if some people want some, I’ll mail you some. They won’t take up the entire face of the target, maybe 2/3 of it, so the light should still show around the borders. Here are some she made for my BSD, FT and WH2O.
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I’d probably be in for this. The upper playfields have decals and the lights change color for those without any issues or confusion.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:So…I got my Alien and I’m happy to report that I like it a lot but Halloween is still my favorite of the two. My takeaway is that it just feels good to step outside of the homogeneous Stern superhero centric dad rock populace pleasing slog and step into an entirely different world. I’ve always been a bit of an outlier and a weirdo and these games just naturally speak to me. They are works of art, design and engineering. They are imperfect and unfinished but they are and endlessly interesting. They are as difficult to understand as they are mesmerizing. There’s nothing like these two games in the world of pinball and I think out of my entire collection I’d have a hard time selling either. They are special. I cant wait to see what happens with both of these games in the future code wise and I’m happy to take the long ride.
Thanks for reporting back. Are you going to run your alien on location? Any initial thoughts on quality and reliability?
Quoted from dnapac:If you have tried this, level side to side, make sure correct pitch, but slightly increasing/decreasing on individual pins can make a huge difference. For the airballs, check your flipper rubber height…mm make a big difference.
Sounds like the airballs come when he’s hitting the center targets. That’s normal which is why they have the clear plastic guard above there.
Quoted from SpookyBug:Do you want those each individually over thirteen years or all thirteen on one layout next year?
Yes.
Look great! Let me know when and how to order!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Some Halloween III prototype decals for the 3 drops, and some larger alternates for the other drops. The Judith tombstones are designed to be applied over the top of the target. Should have sheets of them later this week. 22 more days til Halloween…
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Quoted from PanzerKraken:It's funny I've been playing my other pins and not turning on Halloween cause I'm anticipating new code and want to put a ton of time into it once it drops
Same thing happening here.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:It's coming tonight at 8, early release!.... I mean for Ends on Peacock streaming. Not the code....
Where are you reading this? I saw that on fb but peacock still says 10/14 which I’m assuming means 12am.
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:Hey guys….again, I purchased an HUO CE a couple of weeks ago and love it! 2 quick questions…..
1. The powder coat seems to be getting black where our hands rest on the lockdown bar and below the flipper buttons. Anyway to “restore” the gold powder coat?
2. Is it just my observation or does the drop targets blocking the house ramp not fall all the time when receiving a direct hit? Even with a hard shot….
TIA
1. No, would need to recoat it. People on here are clearcoating theirs to protect the powdercoat. I’d search on here how to do that safely but that won’t fix the already dark areas.
2. Thats normal. You can make the springs tighter if you want them to drop more frequently.
Quoted from Lostcause:Looks pretty square and pushed it hard back into the channel, will investigate it later. But Spookys glass is shorter by maybe 1/4”.
Sub doesn’t sound right so going to have to look into that too, tried adjusting the level on the amp and it makes the sub move (cone) while doing it.
Also the tongue one way flap in the house has been mounted high enough that the ball can go underneath it and back down the ramp if the ball gets into that area from the house flipper. Is this right?
Just played some games with my wife, not an easy game which I don’t mind.
Once the ball passes into the house under the flap, it should not be able to back the opposite way down the lane. What most of us have found is that the diverter up there needs minor adjustments otherwise the ball could be hitting the edge of the diverter before completely passing under the flap, which knocks it back down. You can search for diverter adjustment in this thread to find instructions on what to do.
Quoted from Lostcause:Was just in my room and it thought hold it where’s the clown!
I was thinking that too but still how can that pass quality control, somebody should have spotted it.
I’m more confused as to how it fit. Those sides aren’t symmetrical in a way the left and right are interchangeable.
Quoted from Jakers:I'm pretty positive I used a 1 inch hex spacer. You might as well order a few different sizes to see what works best for your game.
https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-hex-spacers-1-1-78-6-32-thread-femalefemale.html
Did you just lodge it in there?
Quoted from DodgeThatOne:Hello,
I have the metal flap issue happening on the left flipper side. Do you guys know if it is possible to fix without taking the plastic off the top of the flipper. I don't want to break the little red plastic thingies that hold those plastic covers in place.
And dumb question, how do you loosen those transparent plastic posts?
Thanks a bunch,
Cheers,
Chris
I had this issue and fixed it by purchasing a mini wrench set. You can loosen the standalone post at its base which gives relief to the metal flap. Make sure it’s flat and retighten. 30 second fix.
In really bad at pinball so I don’t get Jack-o-lantern multi ball much, but when I do I’m lost. What’s the objective for that multi?
Quoted from mstang01:Is Jack-o-lantern multi ball where Don’t fear the reaper plays? I was wondering if it was really in the game but now I see why I’ve never heard it… sad to bury such a good song so deep I may never hear it
Yea, that’s it. You have to start and end (don’t need to complete them) 3 different pumpkin modes.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:bend. the hood. down. takes 2 secs.
Are you guys just muscling it down? I feel like I’m going to break it.
Quoted from finnflash:I think it pops back up because it is red and your not supposed to hit it til you hit enough spinners. Once you complete spinners it changes to purple.
Watch the video with sound. It’s constantly trying to push it back up even though it’s in the up position.
I’m a newb to all of this but there is an opto laser that gets blocked when that drop target is down. The drop target has a rubber cover on the bottom to block the laser and can come off (mine did). In my case I had the opposite issue, my opto never noticed when the drop target was down cause the laser shot through the drop target. Maybe in your case the rubber cover fell off but got itself stuck in the opto and now your machine thinks the drop target is always down when it’s not?
Quoted from 30FathomDave:Well… shit. I tried 2 different thumb drives (8G and 16G), both in FAT32 format, and it doesn’t like either of them. Any specific drives you’d recommend to get the job done? I appear to be in the market. Also... when buying a thumb drive - is it possible to know if it was formatted on a PC vs Mac? I have 2 Macs in the house and a ChromeBook. This house has several doors, but no Windows.
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This is what I’ve been using without issue.
SanDisk 16GB Cruzer USB 2.0 Flash Drive - SDCZ36-016G-B35 https://a.co/d/gPnqwCM
I’m so excited, did my first solder job today on anything ever. My sanitarium drop target died so I reached out to mpdpvdpin since I know he recently had the same issue. He said the switch was probably bad so I called spooky and AJ had me try a couple things that didn’t work and agreed it was probably a bad switch. So tonight I got the new part and soldered it in myself. It ain’t pretty but it works!
Sorry, just wanted to share and also highlight for anyone that may have a similar issue.
Quoted from jkashani:Updated with the old code and it’s doing the same. Need to call Spooky.
What’s it doing?
General pinball question: Anybody use a drill buffer kit to clean and polish their game? I’m getting a lot of ball trails and marks on my playfield and novus 2 by hand isn’t really cutting it. I’m experienced in polishing car paint. The playfield is just automotive clear coat right? In theory I should be able to use a drill attachment and foam pad to clean up the playfield as needed?
Quoted from Lopa:In theory yes you can buff out the clear on a playfield but it is completely unnecessary, just use a little novus 1 for maintenance. I use blitz pure carnauba wax maybe once a year but for the most part even that is unnecessary.
Novus 1 and 2 by hand don’t seem to get the trail makes out. Something to just live with?
Quoted from TheLaw:You can but it's overkill. We usually reserve this for much older games that have been treated poor for years.
It's never gonna be perfect if you play it; so just don't worry aboot it too much.
Ha. Thanks. I’m super crazy about the paint on my cars and that has apparently crossed over to my new pinball infatuation. Sounds like I should just let it go and maybe plan on a real polish job in about ten years!
Quoted from kciaccio:So weird this would come out today, I was getting the ball trails out of my inlanes today.
I thought they were being stubborn to.
I was using maguire polishing paste #9 and #7 to get them out but looking closely I feel I can still see them slightly.
Depends on where the light is hitting. I have a canned light right above my machine so if it reflects from a certain angle I can still see it. In low light it’s hard to see.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Why would my upper flipper work in test but not in the game.
Trying to fix a friend’s game and I am not very knowledgeable of the spooky system.
Any ideas?
The upper flipper only works when you unlock the upper playfield (house). That occurs after hitting the center ramp 3 times otherwise it’s disabled.
Quoted from curban:I was out of town when last code update hit, so I’m behind. I believe I saw some posts about issues/bugs with it…so what is final verdict? Upgrade now or wait for next release?
Honestly, I’ve enjoyed the new code. I haven’t ran into any game breaking bugs and I think the pros outweigh the cons so far. With that being said I probably haven’t put in as much time as many others here.
Quoted from CheapTrick33:Need some help... I can't seem to find the USB port to do the code update (and yes I've looked) and I do feel stupid... searched through the postings again and thought I had read somewhere that it was on/in the inside of the coin door (checked didn't see it there) went back to the website looked at the schematics and shows the USB on the Pinotaur board... took the back glass off don't see the Pinotaur board back there. Do I have to take the glass off and lift the playfield to find the board/USB port? Hope not as that seems rather cumbersome to do for every update. Appreciate the help... Merry Christmas everyone!!!
Open coin door and look into the machine on the left. There will be a usb port hanging around there. Option 2 is to open the speaker panel and there’s a usb port right off the top of the little computer in there.
Quoted from guitarded:Looks like you have room for at least 2 more!
Quoted from guitarded:Looks like you have room for at least 2 more!
Don’t worry, I’m already looking for my third. In that area I should be able to fit 8 total.
Quoted from musketd:Which one is your favorite of the two?
Hard to say, I love them both. They each play completely different and that’s what I love about each of them.
Most of my friends prefer Halloween. I think it’s easier to understand for a new player compared to Godzilla.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:So jelly. Space is only thing stopping me from going nuts with pins
If I go nuts and let this hobby take over the basement I think I could fit close to 20 without issue. With that being said, I’d probably be signing divorce papers at the same time!
Quoted from jkashani:Anyone know the powder coat name on the LE? Kind of looks like empire copper vein [quoted image]
I think it’s gold vein.
Quoted from AndHart120:So random quick question I didn’t want to dig around for.
What is the point of the clear plastic piece above the drops in the center? Protection so an air ball doesn’t break them? Ive had games, and seen them in the past with drops in the middle of the playfield and there was nothing above them. (Space Station and Ghostbusters are the first two that come to mind) So are these more fragile?
Yes, it’s to prevent airballs. No idea if actual damage would occur if it wasn’t there but it gets hit a lot. I’d rather have it there than not, that’s for sure.
Possible bug. Playing with my wife, she got up to santarium and it dropped down into the Jack o lantern and made her pick a mode. She didn’t hit a single drop target down yet…
Quoted from PanzerKraken:How easy is the house mod to install?
Very easy. The hardest part is snaking the cable/wire through the machine. I had my wife help me so she could grab the wire end and gently pull it through as I gave it more slack. Other than that, it’s plug and play.
Hi all, where in the settings can I fine tune the upper playfield diverter? I see servo settings but I can’t get in there. The green button doesn’t do anything…
Edit - Found it in feature settings.
Quoted from kciaccio:There is no stealing the ball thing in Halloween. It's intended to be a ball save for you or hit it and it's a 2 ball multiball.
You need to remember it is in there when you drain and start playing the ball as soon as it drops after you drain your ball.
I agree that it doesn’t exist but pretty sure it says you steal it on the official rules sheet.
Quoted from Ratman:When I hit the green button it won’t open up
[quoted image]
It’s under feature settings.
Quoted from Roostking:Not related to code of course, but both of my metal flaps on the inlanes are flipped up! I noticed the lift on the left side in game and started to look at that, then the ball got stuck on the right side, i kid you not. Ball searching as we speak..
Michael is a psycho! Contacting Spooky soon and the new code is so fun![quoted image][quoted image]
Loosen the solo post at the base, this will allow the metal flap to reposition itself and lay flat.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Now that I got Elvira, Alien is kind of the last on my list of real wants cause of the theme and mostly having horror pins (Godzilla kind of counts....)
Funny, you have like my dream lineup. I’m getting there, just need Freddy and Tales.
In other news I had 8 friends over yesterday and a decent amount are just drawn to Halloween over Godzilla and Elvira. Something about Halloween makes people want to push that start button just one more time.
Quoted from Colsond3:My sanitarium drop target isn’t resetting at all, and doesn’t pop up on initial game start up now.
I can reset it in the coil test and then start a game. But once it’s knocked down it never comes back up. No switch is showing as stuck in the switch test. Can it be disabled or enabled from some other menu?
Any suggestions?
[quoted image]
My switch for that drop broke. Go into switch test and drop the switch and see if it’s recognized. My guess is no. First try and reflow the solder, I’d that doesn’t work replace the switch.
How long should a battery last on the PC in this machine? I noticed that the battery is wired and connected through a small molex connection. Do you just gently pull it out? It’s so small I can’t see if there are any tabs.
Quoted from zebpin61:Route operators may offer a different experience but as a HUO game owner, I expect the CR2032 batteries to last 2 to 3 years. I do test the batteries once per year with my multimeter to make sure they're above 3.0 volts. The battery backup function probably works below that but given the game value I don't risk it. Be careful when pulling out the molex connecter as it can also lift the male housing off the small circuit board. HUO games I expect are energized much less than routed games which I interpret to putting slightly more drain on HUO batteries.
Is there an actual risk of damage if the battery dies? I thought you’d just lose top scores etc.
Quoted from zebpin61:Good point: No damage but there's plenty of posts in this and other Spooky game threads about having to connect a keyboard and reboot your processor. Since I'm not as comfortable with programming/computers as I am with hardware, I choose to over do it on the latter. Otherwise, it's just the high scores.
Interesting. I had no idea about that. Thanks for the heads up.
Quoted from vilant:There's 6 whisker style switches in the ball trough on mine, and they all tested normal. Is there supposed to be a 7th? Nothing there at the end. Never was[quoted image]
Looks like you have too many balls my man. My game only has 6, hence the 6 trough switches.
Quoted from dnaman:I've just scanned the group images and someone shared this picture long ago. 7 Balls it is. The trough shows 6 and then one is stacked at position 1.[quoted image]
Yup. What I’m most curious about is how he ended up with 8? I think he’s had the game for a while now.
Quoted from vilant:Lol, there were 8 in there. I have no idea how the eff that happened. Wasn't me....either one if my kids added one or AMH is jealous
At least it’s an easy fix!
Quoted from dnaman:Well, technically I have 8 in mine as well as I dropped one next to Scooby's barrel, at the habitrail to prevent the ball from dropping out of the top rail on the way through. As long as it doesn't drop into the game I am good to go. I will eventually request the plastic guides that they have come up with but no rush and I will likely add something to the shipment.
But we are in the Halloween thread.
Just downloaded, installed, and played 4 test games. The transitions between videos seem much faster, which makes the game much faster. Sound was good, everything seems to be working well. I didn’t get a chance to try the new mode but did get to Jack o lantern multiball and it sounded great.
I’m happy!
Quoted from MK6PIN:During prior updates, red led strips used to pulse slowly until code was finished, then turn green. Is this still the case? Can't seem to get the update finished.....several initial red pulses, then spins in "updating" status.
Will grab another stick and try again....just wanted to see if the pulsing red, then green is still consistent with updating...thx
I wasn’t paying attention to that, but the screen let me know when it was finished. Only took a few minutes.
Quoted from Betelgeuse:I played a handful of games so far. Some quick notes...
I experienced the false ballsaver one time. The light was flashing, but no save.
My speaker lights are stuck in the red/white chaser pattern from the boot sequence. A reboot did not clear the issue.
The new animation for Sanitarium is a great upgrade!
There are a few places where the music seems to be missing now, like the match sequence and during the instructions for slasher mode. The game is dead silent.
Really liking the improved transition timing with the video clips! The game plays a bit faster now. I think things are on the right track.
Just checked mine. Same deal with the speaker lights and the topper lighters. Red and white.
My 2nd hedge Michael was getting pushed back in further than the rest with this code but it would fix itself during the “wave”
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Someone posted they fixes their issue with that judith drop by adding black tape to the drop in the Ultraman thread, so maybe something to look into also for those with the same issue.
If this is the case the tomb drop target probably has a rubber cover like the house drop target. My house drop target rubber cover fell off which allowed the opto laser to register through the translucent target. I fixed mine by painting that part with black nail polish.
Quoted from waletboy:Attract mode!!!!! m4tt lpeters82
I emailed Matt about this last week and he said it’s coming in the next update.
Quoted from Flash71:The last two updates should leave nobody asking questions. I’m sorry if I’m being harsh but wtf!!
I don’t even know this means. The last two updates answered all questions?
Played my Godzilla tonight and couldn’t make a shot to save my life, was bricking everything. Switched to Halloween and got on the scoreboard first game and got jackolantern multi ball a few times. In Halloween I feel like I’m in control, in Godzilla I’m just fighting to stay alive.
Quoted from delawarejason:Update to my lost ball issue that was a suspected switch issue. I don’t see a switch 60 in the switch diagram. Anyone ever wrestle with this issue before?
[quoted image]
I think what you’re seeing in the screen is the system just recognizing that you’re hitting the green enter button on the door. If you want to test your trough switches I’d remove all be balls and then drop them in one by one and see what happens, or manually click them down to see if the switch is recognized.
Quoted from m4tt:“Bump Mikes” turns on/off the feature where the Mikes move a little bit when you hit the targets next to each hedge scoop. It was created to reset Mikes back to their home position if they were creeping out (moving due to game vibrations) during game play. You may not need this setting.
I’ve seen Mike servos shake fixed by replacing them, I had one shaking and I left it and eventually it stopped working altogether. Not all servos are equal and you might find replacing them again fixes the shake.
I think this is the answer. I have a shaking Michael and I did a few tests. If I remove the Michael from the servo it does not vibrate. If I grab the Michael when it shakes it stops. It leads me to believe the servo is not strong enough to handle the weight of the figure and has issues out of the box. My other two servos are fine.
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:Thanks everyone! Plan on doing it this weekend!
I just did mine. I didn’t take the wireform off the playfield I just cut some zip ties and fed the wires through the playfield hole so I had access.
Opposite effect for me. I replaced all 3 of my servos last update and one of them used to have a seizure during every activation. With this new update they are all smooth as butter.
Quoted from pinmister:I actually had the thought of why it is needed to have the mike bumps all the time. If they only move for hedge shots there may be a lot less failures? Thank you for mentioning to turn them off in settings-I need to do that.
I turned mine off for this exact reason. I figure the less the servos are ran, the longer they will last.
Quoted from nickrivers:Looking at a Halloween too. Is there a difference between the BSE and CE play wise?
Nope. They all play the same.
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