Halloween (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021In the most recent Spooky stream they said that the new animation company would be working on Um and Halloween. Hope that wasn’t another “Bowen is consulting” situation.
Quoted from djsolzs:I was told this IS/WAS the case and that other animators were considered and presented but not approved.
That is correct we do have another studio that has completed a bunch of new really top tier stuff for Ultraman and we have already agreed with them that they will be doing some neat stuff for Halloween next. Yes, the animations when complete do have to be approved.
Fingers crossed that the Akkads are feeling flexible. Really looking forward to seeing some new Halloween animations.
Quoted from SpookyLuke:That is correct we do have another studio that has completed a bunch of new really top tier stuff for Ultraman and we have already agreed with them that they will be doing some neat stuff for Halloween next. Yes, the animations when complete do have to be approved.
Quoted from SpookyLuke:That is correct we do have another studio that has completed a bunch of new really top tier stuff for Ultraman and we have already agreed with them that they will be doing some neat stuff for Halloween next. Yes, the animations when complete do have to be approved.
Great news...bring it!!!!
Quoted from freakyvideoguy:House mod installed! Easy install and looks great.[quoted image]
Hope to get mine installed this weekend...Andrew is a great guy, and makes amazing toys...
Quoted from MK6PIN:Hope to get mine installed this weekend...Andrew is a great guy, and makes amazing toys...
It takes 5 minutes to install. Super easy.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:That seems crazy. I’m really curious what the other art would have looked like
Maybe the licensor didn't want the animations to be too close to looking like a movie, just in cartoon form?
Quoted from Boycer:I use a lot of citadel for my 3D prints. Good paint. I only used a little bit of each and smoothed over with my fingers.[quoted image]
Ok thanks. Appreciate it.
Quoted from freakyvideoguy:House mod installed! Easy install and looks great.[quoted image]
I might put these on.
https://www.amazon.com/Dollhouse-Miniature-Roofing-Asphalt-Shingles/dp/B00Z6WK6K6
Screenshot_20220412-212049_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from kciaccio:I might put these on.
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
Curious to see if the scale is correct for those... I am thinking most doll houses are bigger than the mod, so the shingles might be too big. But if not, that is a winning idea! If the scale is right, it will look a lot better than paint.
Hey all need some help. Recently got a HWN CE. Love it but I keep getting balls stuck in the right subway. Same spot every time, it drops down from the second level playfield and just sits right where it’s dropping. I have to rock and shake to get it to roll out and then I end up tilting out my game. Thanks in advance and sorry if this was covered already.
Quoted from NovaCade:Hey all need some help. Recently got a HWN CE. Love it but I keep getting balls stuck in the right subway. Same spot every time, it drops down from the second level playfield and just sits right where it’s dropping. I have to rock and shake to get it to roll out and then I end up tilting out my game. Thanks in advance and sorry if this was covered already.
What's your playfield pitch?
Quoted from NovaCade:Hey all need some help. Recently got a HWN CE. Love it but I keep getting balls stuck in the right subway. Same spot every time, it drops down from the second level playfield and just sits right where it’s dropping. I have to rock and shake to get it to roll out and then I end up tilting out my game. Thanks in advance and sorry if this was covered already.
For the purpose of this discussion I'm going to use right, left, top, and bottom from the perspective of the playfield flipped up. When you look at that right subway the area of concern should be at the top. The ball is dropping to the left, rolling down just slightly, and riding across a sloped metal peice from left to right. So there are a few things to check.
The first thing I would check is your pitch and level. Your pitch should probably be between 6.5 and 7.5. Your subway was tested in the factory at 6.5, but I setup my personal games at 7.4 and did not have any issues. If anything a steeper pitch should just clear out the ball more quickly ... probably up to a point. There may be an upper extreme. It also important that your game is level. For example, if your game is sloped to the left that would counteract what that metal price is doing in the subway. You would essentially create a pocket where the ball just sits on the top right.
The next super simple thing to check would be for debris in the subway. Some dust or grime may have built up to create friction.
I would guess that those two will take care of most issues, however if you want to dive deeper there are a few additional things we can do.
Finally, remember that sloped metal peice from earlier? There is a little bit of play in how it's mounted. You will likely have to move some optos out of the way, but if you take driver tip and hammer you can tap down on the left hand side and up on the right hand side to increase the pitch of that bracket. Were talking maybe a millimeter here, so don't just start whacking away. This would be more of a last resort for me since at some point your subway was tested and clearing balls.
PS: If you call out service tech line in your game they may have some other tips. Otherwise ask for the "other Luke" and I can try to help you out. I do post here, but I would always encourage individuals to call our tech line, which is posted inside every game.
Quoted from PinMonk:What's your playfield pitch?
I’m using an actual physical, digital level, no apps or bubbles. When I got it home I set it up and it was level side to side at 0 and had a pitch of about 6.2. Last night I had moved and re-leveled my machines, and I set HWN to 6.5 and then I noticed the issues.
So In my frustration, I set it back to 6.2. I also changed the factory balls to ball baron balls, and tried to clean out any dust in the subway. This seems to have helped as I got 2 games in a row with no stuck balls, but still want to check if there is something I’m missing.
Quoted from lpeters82:For the purpose of this discussion I'm going to use right and left from the perspective of the playfield flipped up. When you look at that right subway the area of concern should be at the top. The ball is dropping to the left, rolling down just slightly, and riding across a sloped metal peice from left to right. So there are a few things to check.
The first thing I would check is your pitch and level. Your pitch should probably be between 6.5 and 7.5. Your subway was tested in the factory at 6.5, but I setup my personal games at 7.4 and did not have any issues. If anything a steeper pitch should just clear out the ball more quickly ... probably up to a point. There may be an upper extreme. It also important that your game is level. For example, if your game is sloped to the left that would counteract what that metal price is doing in the subway. You would essentially create a pocket where the ball just sits on the top right.
The next super simple thing to check would be for debris in the subway. Some dust or grime may have built up to create friction.
I would guess that those two will take care of most issues, however if you want to dive deeper there are a few additional things we can do.
Finally, remember that sloped metal peice from earlier? There is a little bit of play in how it's mounted. You will likely have to move some optos out of the way, but if you take driver tip and hammer you can tap down on the left hand side and up on the right hand side to increase the pitch of that bracket. Were talking maybe a millimeter here, so don't just start whacking away. This would be more of a last resort for me since at some point your subway was tested and clearing balls.
PS: If you call out service tech line in your game they may have some other tips. Otherwise ask for the "other Luke" and I can try to help you out. I do post here, but I would always encourage individuals to call our tech line, which is posted inside every game.
Thank you for the great information and also trying to help me out! One HUGE leg up I am giving to Spooky vs Stern already…I can call and speak to someone!!!! Amazing.
I will hopefully have some time to dive back in after work and see if I can find anything else.
Quoted from mdeslaur:I haven't had time to investigate yet, but is the start button supposed to light up? Is there an ETA on a manual for this game?
I had the same on my last NIB, just unplug/replug the LED in the start button.
Quoted from lpeters82:For the purpose of this discussion I'm going to use right, left, top, and bottom from the perspective of the playfield flipped up. When you look at that right subway the area of concern should be at the top. The ball is dropping to the left, rolling down just slightly, and riding across a sloped metal peice from left to right. So there are a few things to check.
The first thing I would check is your pitch and level. Your pitch should probably be between 6.5 and 7.5. Your subway was tested in the factory at 6.5, but I setup my personal games at 7.4 and did not have any issues. If anything a steeper pitch should just clear out the ball more quickly ... probably up to a point. There may be an upper extreme. It also important that your game is level. For example, if your game is sloped to the left that would counteract what that metal price is doing in the subway. You would essentially create a pocket where the ball just sits on the top right.
The next super simple thing to check would be for debris in the subway. Some dust or grime may have built up to create friction.
I would guess that those two will take care of most issues, however if you want to dive deeper there are a few additional things we can do.
Finally, remember that sloped metal peice from earlier? There is a little bit of play in how it's mounted. You will likely have to move some optos out of the way, but if you take driver tip and hammer you can tap down on the left hand side and up on the right hand side to increase the pitch of that bracket. Were talking maybe a millimeter here, so don't just start whacking away. This would be more of a last resort for me since at some point your subway was tested and clearing balls.
PS: If you call out service tech line in your game they may have some other tips. Otherwise ask for the "other Luke" and I can try to help you out. I do post here, but I would always encourage individuals to call our tech line, which is posted inside every game.
Your recent support posts are excellent.
Quoted from kciaccio:I might put these on.
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
The shingles on Amazon is just paper material. Go to hobby lobby and find some material that is close and cut your own. They will be to big for the house mod anyway.
The shingles are for 1:12 scale doll houses. They will be way too big.
#481 being delivered on Friday! FedEx just called me to schedule. Can’t wait. Now to watch Halloween for the first time. The pin is my wife’s.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:#481 being delivered on Friday! FedEx just called me to schedule. Can’t wait. Now to watch Halloween for the first time. The pin is my wife’s.
Congrats, I know you've been waiting for this for a while now.
Jeff
Quoted from TheLaw:Nice!
Once again, these numbers make no fucking sense
I haven't cared until I see me getting "skipped" haha. Nah I'm fairly easy going and will hopefully just trust the system I guess. Gotta be a reason people get skipped (distributor vs direct, butter/no butter).
Folks may remember my previous post about the deflector shield over the bank of drop targets on the main playfield. Mine had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes. IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I had to come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.
Shield_0 (resized).jpgPosts_1 (resized).jpgPosts_Comp (resized).jpgShield_3 (resized).jpgShield_1 (resized).jpgShield_2 (resized).jpgQuoted from TheLaw:Nice!
Once again, these numbers make no fucking sense
Usually we stay pretty tight on numbers. Pretty unprecedented times with supply being like pulling teeth. Good news is literally hundreds of games are done and leaving! Our people are doing the best they can for you all. Having almost 300 games pile up because of supply can be very tough to navigate. We are building nothing but straight direct prints right now so anyone lacking those should see them in the next few weeks. If you are confused about your number or concerned you were forgotten just give us a call! No worries.
Quoted from Calfdemon:Curious to see if the scale is correct for those... I am thinking most doll houses are bigger than the mod, so the shingles might be too big. But if not, that is a winning idea! If the scale is right, it will look a lot better than paint.
I ordered them. Let ya know how it turns out.
Might even put some of these doll house leaves on the roof....Might trigger the leaf haters though..lol
I'm sure the intent was to build and ship in order. But say you get a machine 90% done and then boom, supply chain craziness means you can't finish it. Do you just sit and wait for the parts, or do you keep building as much as possible? Obviously, you do not just sit around. So now, as Luke just mentioned, you have literally hundreds of games waiting to be finished off. From that point, logistically it would be almost impossible to finish and ship them from the first ones started to the last ones started. You are going to finish and ship out the closest ones to the door first. If say number 20 is buried behind numbers 21-60, are you really going to dig out number 20 first, or are you going to follow whatever the logical work flow is to get them all out the door as quickly as possible? Maybe a huge company with tons of floor space can make a "first in first out" system work perfectly in that scenario, but you have to remember Spooky is not a huge place with unlimited resources. They are doing the best with what they have.
Cut them some slack guys. You will all get your games. There isn't some tin foil hat conspiracy going on to hold certain numbers back on purpose.
Quoted from Jediturtle:...logistically it would be almost impossible to finish and ship them from the first...
*Grumble* Fair points.
Quoted from Jediturtle:... There isn't some tin foil hat conspiracy going on to hold certain numbers back on purpose.
Don't strawman it up at the end 
No one has mentioned anything weird; just a simple question on numbering.
I fully understand there's no magical order to things, and issues here and there have caused manufacturing hiccups and delays. However, and I guess this is a question for SpookyLuke - is there any update on Australia orders? There's a bunch of us here kind of in limbo wondering whereabouts along the process we might get a container out, with some of the folks here having quite early order numbers.
As I said - totally understand the supply chain issues and how that must be screwing with plans, but was there even a (very) general idea of when an Aussie batch might go out, since we are progressing quite nicely along the orders now? Some of us have also enquired into air freight - so would just be good to know the state of things if at all possible. 
Quoted from jeffro01:Congrats, I know you've been waiting for this for a while now.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. Can’t wait for my wife to get her pin. She’s so excited as our my kids and me.
Quoted from TheLaw:Nice!
Once again, these numbers make no fucking sense
Yeah it’s been kinda all over the place. At least they are getting a bunch shipped finally.
Quoted from Ceemunkey:I fully understand there's no magical order to things, and issues here and there have caused manufacturing hiccups and delays. However, and I guess this is a question for SpookyLuke - is there any update on Australia orders? There's a bunch of us here kind of in limbo wondering whereabouts along the process we might get a container out, with some of the folks here having quite early order numbers.
As I said - totally understand the supply chain issues and how that must be screwing with plans, but was there even a (very) general idea of when an Aussie batch might go out, since we are progressing quite nicely along the orders now? Some of us have also enquired into air freight - so would just be good to know the state of things if at all possible.
Sounds like an Australian batch is on the agenda pretty soon here!
Quoted from TheLaw:I'm not confused aboot my number, I'm confused what the numbers actually mean; since they don't seem to equal build or shipping times.
It's at least in the ball park. Not like we are seeing 500s delivered, while, 300s arent. I don't really see any issues and many are butter cabs, so that's another consideration.
Again, take the time Spooky, all is good!
Quoted from SpookyLuke:Usually we stay pretty tight on numbers. Pretty unprecedented times with supply being like pulling teeth. Good news is literally hundreds of games are done and leaving! Our people are doing the best they can for you all. Having almost 300 games pile up because of supply can be very tough to navigate. We are building nothing but straight direct prints right now so anyone lacking those should see them in the next few weeks. If you are confused about your number or concerned you were forgotten just give us a call! No worries.
Again, no rush!!!! Yes people are clamoring but let's keep that QC up! Quality checked over quantity shipped!
Quoted from TheLaw:Don't strawman it up at the end No has mentioned anything weird; just a simple question on numbering.
That's fair. Point taken. No personal attack intended. Hope you get your game soon and enjoy it!
Quoted from Capn12:One side point I never mentioned since I got my game a month plus ago…..my topper moves counter clockwise, seems like it’s backwards for sure. Anyone else have that?
Well a simple motor will run in reverse if wired in reverse
Quoted from lpeters82:For the purpose of this discussion I'm going to use right, left, top, and bottom from the perspective of the playfield flipped up. When you look at that right subway the area of concern should be at the top. The ball is dropping to the left, rolling down just slightly, and riding across a sloped metal peice from left to right. So there are a few things to check.
The first thing I would check is your pitch and level. Your pitch should probably be between 6.5 and 7.5. Your subway was tested in the factory at 6.5, but I setup my personal games at 7.4 and did not have any issues. If anything a steeper pitch should just clear out the ball more quickly ... probably up to a point. There may be an upper extreme. It also important that your game is level. For example, if your game is sloped to the left that would counteract what that metal price is doing in the subway. You would essentially create a pocket where the ball just sits on the top right.
The next super simple thing to check would be for debris in the subway. Some dust or grime may have built up to create friction.
I would guess that those two will take care of most issues, however if you want to dive deeper there are a few additional things we can do.
Finally, remember that sloped metal peice from earlier? There is a little bit of play in how it's mounted. You will likely have to move some optos out of the way, but if you take driver tip and hammer you can tap down on the left hand side and up on the right hand side to increase the pitch of that bracket. Were talking maybe a millimeter here, so don't just start whacking away. This would be more of a last resort for me since at some point your subway was tested and clearing balls.
PS: If you call out service tech line in your game they may have some other tips. Otherwise ask for the "other Luke" and I can try to help you out. I do post here, but I would always encourage individuals to call our tech line, which is posted inside every game.
Hey! Thanks for all the great tips. I was able to spend some time tonight making adjustments and getting things dialed in. I do believe my issue was from either level or pitch.
I adjusted both and played 10 games and didn’t have a single ball stuck. Thanks for your quick response and great info.
Count me in as a Spooky Fan!
I just hope that the akkads approve all new animations that spookys new animation crew designed bc this is definitely on the cusp of becoming great. All us owners know that it's a good game and are patiently waiting for spooky too prove all the doubters wrong and make this a great game. Fingers crossed for you guys
Quoted from John_C:Folks may remember my previous post about the deflector shield over the bank of drop targets on the main playfield. Mine had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes. IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I had to come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!
Quoted from Capn12:One side point I never mentioned since I got my game a month plus ago…..my topper moves counter clockwise, seems like it’s backwards for sure. Anyone else have that?
Probably a topper for that Australian batch? 
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/halloween-owners-threadhes-coming-home/page/98?hl=jakedistel and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Providence, RI
Québec City, QC
Sydney
