Not true. My 920 CE had issues right off the bat, you never know when the armor was powder coated vs final assembly. Its not a big problem and if your buying used, that pin may not be affected, but even if so, its easy to protect.

Mine is not wearing off yet but it is definitely getting smoother where my hands are on the left and right of the lockdown bar and if you look at it from an angle you can see it’s a shade different but it doesn’t look to be wearing off so maybe it the clear wearing down.

Has anybody gotten any random resets on this new code?

I have had 2 in the middle of game play in the last week.
One was in the middle of a 2 player game and one last night on a single player game first ball into game for only a minute.

I just played a game and it gave me the 2 Tilt warnings, then full on Tilt, even though I wasn't shaking the machine at all. Game then locked up with the Tilt graphic on screen and never went back to normal, so I had to turn the pin off to get it to work again. I have my tilt bob set very low, so I really have to shake the machine to get it to tilt, so I have no idea why that happened. It was during Jack O Lantern multiball.

I've encountered this same bug before, mine started launching balls non stop until i power cycled the game

If you put a USB drive into the slot in the head unit it will copy the log files onto it - email those to Matt and tell him what happened.

RM

Matt is asking for log files when crap like this happens.

RM

good to know will pull them next time im on location with it

Silly question here.... I noticed this coil warming up after an inspection so I am changing it. Isn't the part number 23-800-ND on this coil for the no diode coil? If so, why does this coil have a diode? Am I reading this part number on the coil wrong?

IMG_4192 (resized).jpeg

Normal, just leave it

Quick question, I am replacing the board on my Halloween and wanted to know if someone could be kind enough to post a picture of the servos connection to be sure I replugged them correctly i.e. metal plug on the connector up or down.

Thanks

Chris

Edit: All cool, I figured the color code! We learn everyday

Replugged everything, but now the service button and menu does not work, do someone know which connection it would be on the pinotaur board?

Thanks,

Chris

I love the art on the backglass, but also wanted to try a “classic” 1978 title card translite on my Halloween. Had this made. I didn’t specify to keep the art closer to the middle with a border (better aspect ratio or something), but it’s still a decent result. I used to be afraid even to see the pumpkin on the title card when I was young. That Jack-o-lantern ain’t right. The problem is when the light is on behind it the original art shows through, even with it turned around. Maybe I can black it out with paper or some other trick. I’m sure some people will say ewww and others might like it! Variety is spicy, so they say!

8FE27133-EAAD-4C59-84A7-B5811EB90EC9 (resized).jpeg997FC79B-929E-4F16-B0C5-71C20788244B (resized).jpeg

Neat idea and very retro vibe with that, but I would want to remove the topper as having the title like that twice is odd.

Has anyone had a flipper coil get locked on yet? My left main playfield flipper coil locked on today. Any ideas where to start looking? Thanks in advance!

I would suspect a transistor on the heck board,I had to replace mine because of a mistake I made and AJ took care of me with a swap even paid for return shipping.

I would but I am on my third board... This coil got so hot the insulation on the wires melted. I ordered replacement coils just curious if anyone thinks this coil is mislabeled.

I don’t know but if you meter it you can find out, there is a coil resistance table here https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

Any idea where to buy the clear plastic above the drops?
I would just email them but they have already helped with so much on my game I don’t wanna be a bother I would just order it if I knew where to buy.

Mine is about to lose the third and final holding spot on the left we broke the two on the right we play a lot

Thanks

Contact Spooky and they will send you one at no charge.

Can anyone help with the plunger issue I have? Just purchased this a week ago, got it set up and plunger does not hit the ball anywhere near well enough to get it moving. Should the plunger hit the ball or the metal object resting on it? Sorry for my lack or knowledge on proper terminology. Spring seems very weak compared to other pins I just bought.

Thank you. -Paul

3171B264-08AD-4702-A7F9-35C5EB977229 (resized).jpeg

That definitely needs adjustment. You will need to reposition the manual plunger housing so the plunger can hit the center of the ball. I am kind of amazed it can be shoved over that far. Are you sure the playfield is seated all the way in the cabinet?

Agree that’s about as far over I’ve ever seen

Ya that is not right,I hope the shooter housing was drilled correctly in the cabinet like I can’t believe that!

The rubber-covered end of your shooter rod should be directly in the center of those two metal forks barely not touching the ball at rest.

Those two metal forks are the auto-launcher, and should never touch the shooter rod.

It's like your playfield is not sitting in the cabinet correctly and/or the shooter rod assembly is skewed way too far to the left.

Can you take another picture zoomed out a bit but from the same overhead angle so we can see that whole corner of the cabinet, especially how the playfield hooks are in the lock bar bracket. We need to see more of that area.

RussM

My UM is like this IF I don't make sure the PF is snugged to the left whenever I have to lift it. There's a good 3 or 4 mm of play left to right on my PF inside the cab.

So pull the glass, or just shove it by the prop bars all the way to the left side (away from the shooter rod). Even when mines properly aligned sometimes the manual shooter will shift slightly ans interfere with auto launch. In those cases a little nudge on the shooter fixed it.

I lifted the playfield and set it back in. Here’s where I’m at. Should I try to pull it back?

49455A65-F2D8-4D19-A03F-A5B53EC2441D (resized).jpeg

5A5374B0-D56F-463D-BAEE-E00F6E057987 (resized).jpeg

F0A11EFA-4CEB-440B-8F6F-8B48300967B0 (resized).jpeg

I had to loosen those screws by the ball launcher on that metal plate and adjust then tighten.

Looks like you are going to have to reposition the shooter housing. Those screws on the inside of the plate surrounding the manual plunger will need to be loosened and then you should be able to slide it over and retighten them. It looks like you may be missing a couple of those screws for the bottom of the plate? Get it as centered as possible both left/right and up/down before you retighten. And snug them up good so it doesn't move again.

Snugged it left by bars. Should I pull PF back? Now the ball makes it onto the PF but seems weak. Should the ball make it up to the top and to the left side easily?

EA3C002E-C659-43D4-AE43-12314CBCA30D (resized).jpeg

Loosen the shooter housing. Manually position it so the plunger strikes the ball at the Center.
Tighten all bolts.

Then, pull the rubber and the C Clip holding the Shooter Rod in place and remove and clean all of the parts with alcohol, reassemble.

Should be good to go from there.

WTH this comes rolling down the PF after playing for a minute.

396B370C-6046-4A7F-995F-22E9984AA2AB (resized).jpeg

That plunger still needs to be moved over. You will not be able to fix this by just shifting your playfield to the side. The manual plunger should not hit or rub on the auto plunger (the metal fork) at all. It should be perfectly centered (as well as possible) on the ball with the playfield resting in its normal position.

Looks like a post broke off somewhere. My guess would be one of the upper playfields if it made it on to your main playfield. I would see if any posts or other attachment points are loose on the two upper playfields.

Should the cover my hand is on be screwed to the playfield bars behind? It’s just laying on top and scratching the PF.

5940121B-23FB-4710-9C4E-354507CF24A0 (resized).jpeg

74BEBC2E-35B1-47BE-8566-601FF5F99D0B (resized).jpeg

The entire apron is just laying there? Yes, that definitely needs to be attached. Where did you get this machine? I can't imagine it was NIB from the factory?

If I traveled from GA to IN with the game like it is normally shipped, sitting upright on it’s back could the bars have bent a little forcing the sheet metal screws out and causing PF to be shifted to far toward the top of PF? I appreciate your guys’ help troubleshooting this.

Looks like an earlier CE possibly. The seller should have known about the shooter issues if so, cause that's way off and you can see it's shredding the rubber on the shooter tip

This was “basically new” from Jason at Classic Game Rooms in GA.

Looks like the rubber tip needs replacing once you get the shooter rod properly aligned. I imagine this has been going on for a while.

Rod_Tip (resized).jpg

#201

Did you play it first? Or was it a "blind buy"? Because that was either messed up already, or took some major abuse in travel.

I played it and asked “is the plunger this weak”? He said “yes on this game.” He’s a Spooky dealer. We packed it very well and it was strapped to the inside of an enclosed uhaul trailer. I’m not familiar with pins but I’m not an idiot when it comes to moving things.

I’m starting to think the bars for the playfield would appear to be bent away from the playfield (closer to the coin insert), therefore the shooter rod is farther away from ball and the shroud is farther from the bars. Can’t imagine this happened in my travel.

Sorry, I did not mean to imply you are an idiot in any way. Just trying to figure out what happened that the machine is in this condition. I hate to make assumptions about the dealer, but...yikes. He is 100% wrong that the plunger is supposed to be weak on this game. It should make a full orbit with no problem. And any good dealer would have seen this issue immediately and known how to fix it. As for how the apron became completely loose...no idea. I hope it didn't harm your playfield too much. Best of luck getting it all fixed up. I would personally beware of this dealer in the future.

I didn’t take it that way. No worries. Being my first go round I was extremely careful packing 3 games I bought. Halloween being the most expensive. He seems to me to be very reputable as he had alot of great high quality, collector pieces and allegedly has a busy online store, dealing Stern and several other brands. Trying to figure out if those bars could bent a bit from travel and even enough to take sheet metal screws out of the shroud. Seems odd.

Nah the shooter on this game is quite solid and has a ton of power at full pull so like to be gentle on it cause it will fling the balls right back at you through the left orbit

This makes me think these bars were bent and the playfield was too far towards backbox before I took possession of the game. Not to mention the rubber being marred up.

I can't believe anyone would sell a machine that doesn't plunge cleanly. Literally the easiest thing to remedy on a machine.

With a standard shooter, I 100% agree, but the knife shooter has issues. It is badly out of balance, and mine is physically shorter than the standard one. Maybe the length issue was corrected, but I would never say the OEM knife one is solid and has tons of power (at least in my case).