m4tt

I had an issue where during house multiball, stacked with Escape the Kitchen, a ball got wedged between the diverter and metal flap on the backboard. I eventually knocked it loose with the other ball but once I drained down to one ball, for the rest of the game the diverter would not direct a center ramp shot to the left. It always went right into the house but the flipper power was cut so it would just drain down into the sanitarium playfield.

I thought the diverter might toast but once the end of game cycle happened, the diverter went back to its original position.

I also noticed during the multiball chaos that the playfield LED strips were not blue like they usually are for Escape the Kitchen.

Would a copy of the log files help diagnose that?

I can ,I will,today

Does having a certain hardware version of Halloween factor in to the resets at all? I have the mini pc in mine and never had a reset.

I plugged in the USB,and it updated the game ha ha but also grabbed the logs I hope, as I saw a new log file line on there after and sent that file

Every day the kid after school

34ABE73B-131A-470C-A567-5948F2C89F8E (resized).jpeg

Ah, I should have said a USB that doesn't have the game code pkg file, so it doesn't waste time doing an update too, but yes, it still copies the logs, thanks for sending it through.

Jakers

dnapac

Cheeeap.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/149813

13 plays??

This is going to be like POTC all over again, on a slightly lower scale because of the numbers... IF the code becomes amazing.

No pressure

I don’t get that .weird people desperate to sell the game

Especially when people are asking for higher than NIB price for Sterns still in production..Real head scratcher...

Mine is forever so I don’t care just weird it was always holding over 8 u til one guy dropped to low 7s all of a sudden then everybody just followed along
Oh well

Quick question:
Butter Cab CE #728 landed home yesterday. So far so good except the knife topper….keeps falling off the post. Is it supposed to be glued? No way to put a nut on the back end (it’s closed), figured maybe it is held with adhesive?
Thanks
Kyle

Tiny tiny Allen Keyed Grub screw in the arbor. Gotta look close to see it.

Thanks. I see the hole and threads but am missing the little Allen screw. Sent a message to Spooky for their guidance. Much appreciated on the help guitardad!

Kyle

Yea that screw seems to slowly undo itself also that holds the knife in. I would use some loctite on it when you fix your knife topper.

Happened to me to. Spooky sent me a new one under warranty.

Tip of the day: if you're hearing a lot of background noise/buzzing on your Halloween (like I was), try running a separate audio cable to the amp OUTSIDE of the wiring harness. I used a 3.5mm stereo patch cable and ran it from the LCD controller board to the AUX input on the Lepai amp, keeping it away from the other wiring and all the buzzing disappeared. I pulled the stock cable out of the Lepai's RCA jacks to be sure no interference (other end already disconnected at the LCD for the replacement cable).

I'd imagine pulling the existing 3.5mm -> 2xRCA cable out of the harness and rerouting it away from the other wiring would accomplish the same thing if you don't have another cable with male 3.5mm jacks on each end, just a fair bit more work to extract the factory cable.

Spooky: it'd be a good idea to isolate your audio runs in Scooby so you don't get this noise.

Put loctite on the screw. One of the two screws was lost when it worked itself out. So only one holding the knife on. I put it on mine months ago and still staying on.

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I put Lepai amps in my Godzilla, BM66,and JP(when I had it) and did the same thing you did with the 3.5mm plug. I haven’t noticed the buzzing in Halloween like I did with GZ, BM66, and JP. Turning down the treble and the volume on the Lepai helps to eliminate any buzzing, or minimize it.

I picked up pinwoofer kits for BM66 and GZ. BM66 is still bad with the buzzing and not happy with the sound even though I upgraded the speakers and subwoofer.

I'm at my wits end with the far right drop target. It only goes down about 80% of the way, requiring me to hit it twice with the ball to get it to drop all the way down. I've replaced the spring with a new 5003 spring from Pinball Life, I've pulled more coils of the spring around the metal tab to tighten it up (I started with 1 coil, then increased the number in 1 coil increments all the way up to 10 coils). I cut the spring shorter and I loosened another spring to see if it needed to be loosened rather than tightened. None of this worked.

All of the drop targets reset themselves just fine. No problems with that.

Is there anything else I can try? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Mine had the slightest jagged wood in the drop opening. Check that it's not rubbing on the targets. Once I removed that my targets fell more consistently.

I’d be looking into the target itself, make sure it’s not rubbing on something. It doesn’t sound like the spring is the issue, but it may be binding somewhere. Silicone Lube? May work!

Check to make sure all the washers and springs are in the correct position of the drop targets themselves. If that spring is in contact with the target body, drops will behave like thise.

If you unscrew the entire mech from the playfield does it work consistently? That’ll help narrow it down

Make sure the volume on the amp inside the machine in turned down and adjust other setting on the amp to personal preference. Mine and others had the volume cranked on the amp and made the pin sound like complete garbage. Fixed that and things are pretty good. A bit later I added a Polk external sub and that is next level with the base in this theme. Some inconsistent audio levels could be improved between callouts but it’s not too bad. I do really wish Spooky removed the low bass from Loomis callouts so they didn’t go through the sub at all. Other than that I think it sounds really good and the and external sub really helps with this theme/mood.

Can you share how you connected your Polk sub? I have a couple Polk subs I use on Stern pins, one sounds amazing on my Tron, but the one I hooked up to LOTR never was right. I just use speaker wire and piggyback onto the existing sub in the cabinet. Is there a better way? Thanks!

I use their system and sounds great. Can hook up 5 pins to one sub and has individual adjustments for each pin.

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsub-multi-system-kit

I hook up all my Spookys to Polk subs with these. Pretty simple and cheap. It splits the audio signal coming out of the amp.

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Audio-Splitter-Speaker-Headphones/dp/B005GNQNHU
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3

The sub surround is tight against the grill/cab so can’t move freely, fit a spacer and you will see a big difference but you will have to fix vibrations from glass etc.

What is the sub adjustment at on the amp? Mine sounded horrible until I turned the sub adjustment to darn near zero, just above. Sounds great now. Make sure all those wires are making good contact

Mine came sounding terrible from the factory so had to adjust the amp a bunch till I was happy

Well I had my first issue tonight playing a few games with the wife. One of the drop targets was not resetting. I lifted the playfield and it was a simple fix. I did finally updated the code to 1.09 last night. It's a great improvement and I'm looking forward to see what the next update will bring us.

Here is a link to my post with step by step instructions/photo. Polk subs have their own built in amp and setting controls so it is generally best practice to connect it earlier in the chain than the pins amp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/halloween-owners-threadhes-coming-home/page/118#post-6926217

Thanks! I ordered the 3.5 dual male plugs and the 3.5 Y splitter. Same thing Jakers suggested above. Like $20 plus the Polk sub. But some pins really beg for the extra sub power!

I think this is the new lowest asking I’ve seen.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/908820423614528/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Without a doubt it is, it is from a pin bar so not HUO (if that even matters). It’s also the Standard one that for some reason was made so you can’t update them with a shaker or knocker even if you wanted to.

Yea typically if it's not a HUO, that can affect value. Often see stuff coming straight out of barcades and locations going for cheaper. The Standard was quite bare bones, not even decals on the targets was really weird looking, lots of bare metal and plastic all over.

See if anything in the linkage is binding, clean coil sleeve, keep EOS gap to credit card thickness and just close right at end of flipper extension.