Maybe that would be the point. During middle of play, accidental ball in the grave= dead ball and you just accidentally helped the next player. Although skill shot for it would have to grab then unlock, or give back at the end of your ball since you did it on purpose in that scenario.

Yeah, but you’d just shoot it out so they can’t play it.

The way it reads "Upon draining the captive ball will not be released" - this is not working today by design unless "Multiplayer" means something different than adding more than 1 player. Id be interested to know what Im missing or if this is a future code enhancement. It certainly wasnt mentioned that it was a future item in the stream.

It's a risk mechanic I guess, the point of the Judith is supposed to be unlocked to get a 2x multiplier, but this is also something I've seen questioned as possibly not working also. Anyone know if that is true, that the 2x scoring multiplier for getting the Judith MB is not doing anything?

Well I guess in 11 days we will know how they expand on the Judith lock. Hopefully sooner

Received mine today and everything seems to be working ok.

Had a few games and enjoyed it, need some time to learn what’s going on but was making the shots and doing the loop in the house ok, did have the ball go into the wrong lane in the house and jump out a few times where the diverter is when flipping up there.

Only issue I had was when I tried to change the glass to a low reflection type that fits every pin I have tried it in would not fit, seems it’s slightly longer than the spooky glass. Hoping the back channel has some kind of adjustment, are these shorter sheets of glass in this game?

Anyway what a great machine.

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Make sure your sheet is sliding all the way back into the back plastic channel and make sure your game is perfectly level side to side as it can unsquare the cabinet and make for tricky glass return.

Yep, no reason it should not fit.

Looks pretty square and pushed it hard back into the channel, will investigate it later. But Spookys glass is shorter by maybe 1/4”.

Sub doesn’t sound right so going to have to look into that too, tried adjusting the level on the amp and it makes the sub move (cone) while doing it.
Also the tongue one way flap in the house has been mounted high enough that the ball can go underneath it and back down the ramp if the ball gets into that area from the house flipper. Is this right?

Just played some games with my wife, not an easy game which I don’t mind.

Funny the glass thing came up. I was considering getting a sheet of Invisiglass. My Spooky glass is exactly the same dimension as the Invisiglass specs; I think 43" long. I will say I have struggled getting the Spooky glass back in at times. I now pay attention to the end that goes in first and it barely fits. Haha, sometimes it is like a puzzle....I flip it, reverse it...cuss at it....and then magically it fits. I have not fooled with trying to square the cabinet. I might simply look at notching the rear stop just to give me a fraction more length.

I have noticed my 'late model' game seems to have several improvements in it...many of the reported issues I read about 6-12 months ago are no longer evident (or possible) in my game. In fact, my game has been perfect out of the box (less my ignorance on the operation of the Sanitarium flipper). So, it is entirely possible the guys in Benton shortened the glass to alleviate fitment issues if the cabinet is not perfect. Just a hypothesis if your glass is shorter than the Invisiglass.

I sold my Jurassic Park Premium for this game. No knocks on JPP, it is a fine game, but this one is more alluring. I like this a lot...more so than the long clanking shots in JPP. Sound, lights, and emotion are unmatched in Halloween.

Way to go Spooky! Great game; great continuous improvement.

Have a standard sheet of PDI in mine, fits fine. Spooky games are particularly vulnerable in the " square" dept. If you look where the wood notches are at the top left and right of the channel, there can be slight variance.

My R&M had me scratching my head with the same thing you are facing...leveled the cabinet at front and back ( important) and the glass was fine. It was only 1/4 bubble off at the back prior, which caused the glass to hit the notch wrong and not go all the way in.

( obvious note...never, ever force the glass...massive profanity will follow)..

Yep..the "squareness" of these cabs is very important ( more than any of my other games)...people talk all the time about pitch, yet rarely mention level.

Halloween, in particular, really benefits from square..the upper pf entrances from the ramp ( that whole area up there actually) behave very well when they're " balanced, lol...

What tools are you using to get settings right? I have trued pitch and whatnot from phone apps, but id like to get this as perfect as possible. Love this pin, but only seem to play at night!!

If you look at the glass where it meets the lockdown bar and one side of the glass is further out on one side than the other…that’s a square prob. Shift the cabinet with your hands and watch as glass fits right in depending on what side you lean / push too. Then…level your game (whomever is having problems that is. Not the person I quoted)

Mine is like this. I figure that metal flap is really there for a hard/airborne bounce back, not a roll.

This is pretty cheap and works great:
https://a.co/d/dFFvXJE

It’s levelled spot on with the pinguy app with a pitch of about 7. I did notice the glass when pushed it all the way was slightly out left to right by a very small amount. I did push the cab against the wall to shift it but no joy, still don’t think the glass would have gone in if it was square anyway.
Will have a look tomorrow, too much to take in today!

But what a game!

Thanks!

Once the ball passes into the house under the flap, it should not be able to back the opposite way down the lane. What most of us have found is that the diverter up there needs minor adjustments otherwise the ball could be hitting the edge of the diverter before completely passing under the flap, which knocks it back down. You can search for diverter adjustment in this thread to find instructions on what to do.

I've got a large, 2' aluminum level so it can span the rails both parallel, and slightly off ( in and out of square). This way I can compare front to back to nail it down. Cabinet first, then torpedo on pf to confirm, then inclinometer last for dial in.

Not that pricey, and common item for cabinet guys...
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Phone apps are cool and some good ones out there...just cant span the cabinet proper

GZ just got a pretty solid update. You can do it guys!

Also just noticed TODAY that Loomis says “Haddonfield, BENTON, these towns are all the same…”. Yeah yeah so I’m late to the party

Think Spooky is mostly all at the Pinball Expo so likely that's getting in the way of new drop. I imagine they are gonna try to get this out on or right before Halloween

Any tips to make the drop targets more sensitive? Very frequently I'll hit them head on and the ball will bounce off like it hit a brick wall, after about 3-5 direct hits the target will drop.

The one in the upper house playfield will get stuck permanently up until I take the glass out and push the target with my hand to drop it. ‍♂️

Yeah yeah I know, just giving them a hard time and an ‘atta boy!

Lift the playfield, find the drop mech and pull each spring tighter by about 5-7 links. Just dooont let the spring become detached from the other side because….that sucks. Very easy otherwise.

What does the inside of the drops cutout look like? Is the wood smooth? Mine was not and not letting the drops fall.

The spring fix did not help me.

Or a Klipsch R-12SW 12" 400W Subwoofer! Boom! Out go the lights!

I have a paradigm servo 15” sub that I need to connect to, will look today to see what I need to do.

Thanks, I will look into that. I only thought the adjustment was to divert the ball to either side smoothly. Not heard about adjustments to stop the ball going back down under the flap once in the house.

Hello guys….just purchased a CE from a private seller. We love this game!! A couple of rubber rings seemed to be worn out so on the lower playfield. I’m in the process of shopping those out. I’ve ordered according to Spooky’s chart but I’m confused on what sizes go where. Is there anyway you can guide me? Where does the 2 1/2 and 2 inch rings go? I’ve included a pic with arrows. Sorry if this is petty. I’m not an expert in this at all!!

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Starting sanitarium mode with a powered external sub shakes my entire basement ceiling. That bass note is crazy.

If you look closely, the ones you remove should have a size on them. Just replace with the same

2.5 inch rings are pretty standard for modern slingshot mechs. Older slings can be bigger, but that is a good rule of thumb.

Anyone have suggestions for a loose coin door. There is a lil bit of play in mine and appears to be a small gap between the lock mechanism and the actual cabinet. Not a huge deal, but hoping to get it tightened up. I tried tightening the back nut but it doesn’t seem to help. Do I need to order a shorter lock?

Either that or you can bend the latch part with pliers so that when it is closed, the latch is closer to the door frame and, thus, tighter.

Awe shit…didn’t think of that. I told y’all I’m really a newbie!!!

Two days till the top 100 resets. If about 15 people review the BSE model those ratings will be rolled into Halloween’s overall rating as a group which could VERY easily take this game from #66 into the top 20-40 which would be nice to see. So if you’ve got time go leave a review for the BSE and standard (even if you have a CE…it’s the same game after all)

I thought there was supposed to be Michael dressed as a clown on the left of the backbox?
Mine has the same art of The Shape on both sides, what should it be?

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Weeeeeeird. Yeah, the left side should have 1963 clown Michael.

It should be the creepy clown Michael. Spooky’s quality control is concerning but in this case I kinda like it. I am sure Spooky will send you the correct one but I would hold off swapping it out. It makes your game unique.

I'll trade you for mine... I hate clowns

Was just in my room and it thought hold it where’s the clown!

I was thinking that too but still how can that pass quality control, somebody should have spotted it.

Ha ha if only I was closer lol

In the current code are you playing as Michael, a victim/survivor, detective, or what?

I just feel sorry for whoever got the two creepy clowns on their backbox.

I’m more confused as to how it fit. Those sides aren’t symmetrical in a way the left and right are interchangeable.

I think they will fit on either side. I believe the graphic is oversized and gets trimmed down regardless of what side it goes on.

It’s on there perfect but must have been odd doing it as the shape must have been different, no pun intended.

I think they should send you another to replace it.