Can you get me in touch with this person?

Www.mrinvisible.com

A good rule is only use the least strong/abrasive cleaner that it takes to get the job done. Most common and well loved playfield cleaner is Novus 2, but honestly that's overkill in most cases, especially with newer clearcoated machines. Novus 1 will almost always do the job. Heck, honestly I bet a nice clean microfiber rag all by itself will take care of it at this point. I rely a lot on Novus 1...only busting out the 2 when it's needed. Follow up with a nice carnauba paste wax (which again is honestly not needed over clearcoat, but it gives some amount of protection, speed, and makes it easier to clean again later).

That sprayway product's active ingredient is butoxyethanol, which is used in paint strippers among other things. I wouldn't use it anywhere near screened plastics or other items on Halloween. Novus 1 is fine, or Novus 2 for ground-in dirt.

https://www.spraywayretail.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/4676_SDS_US_en_1000038220_Sprayway_SW5002R-All-Purpose-Cleaner-19oz-with-Kill-Claim.pdf
https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/butoxyethanol/default.html

Yeah I hope that was a joke. Either way, I hope anyone doesn't actually try that. It always amazes me when people ask about different products that may or may not be sketchy when Novus exists, is easy to get, is cheap, and has been proven for years to be safe and effective.

Games this new really shouldn’t need novus or any abrasive cleaners. Wipe down with alcohol. Throw a coat of wax on it.

I offset his downvote with 4 up votes. Nothing but love BG..

#1244 here, awaiting our standard. Anyone have a clue if we’ll be playing this thing before actual Halloween? Asked the same question on Spooky FB but no response.

Did you order through Spooky or a distro?

If through a distro, you’ll get an email roughly a week before it’s built. Not sure if Spooky’s process is the same.

This is always hard to say for many variables

Disto, paid in full around 8/26.

I'd say you have a good chance because they are ahead of schedule but technically they have through February of next year to complete builds.

You gotta ask the distributor directly - I don’t know if Spooky will you know game specifically, but the distributor should have a pretty good idea based on their allocation. If you paid 8/26 it’s got to be real soon

You could have a CE this weekend. I'll drive it up and trade for your Rick and Morty

Ha, that’s long gone. You can still bring that Lost World up though..

How’d it go?

I just put a narrow post behind it to back it up and keep it from moving.

Psychiatric bickering isn’t all bad. I’m now off the hook for posting a review as I’m not qualified to do so. That will keep the average down.

Thanks to the pinsider in here for the info on this from Tilt Graphics. Awesome

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Does anybody know if someone sells side art blades and speaker light kits for those who ordered a standard edition?

I need to add to my praising post, is a correctable negative. The armor still darkens up, quickly on mine in fact. I recieved it last Wednesday and by Friday, I saw a slight hint on darkening where my fingers rest. I already had the 2k clearcoat as part my starter kit pulled armor, which was now problem, multiple light coat passes and reinstalled that night. Im in AZ so it dried quickly. Stopped the discoloration in its tracks so far.. Recommended if you just bought or have one incoming, although CEs are probably almost done being built.

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So just got my Halloween Blood Sucker edition butter cabinet and they forgot the backbox key...haven't even got to play it yet. Looks like I'm gonna be calling Spooky first thing in the morning.

Did you check the coin mech? There is a clip on there.

Yep that's the first place I looked. Then looked all inside the cabinet and the underside of the playfield. Thought maybe it fell off during shipping. Spend 30mins or so looking and have yet to find it.

Go through your packing/ cardboard carefully...read somewhere that the key made its way to random spots on a few...

So happy to receive #1211 today. Had two of my good friends over and they helped me set it up and it appears they both really enjoy it. So much so one took down the default Grand champion, so that'll give me something to work towards.

Maybe it's just me but I think Loomis saying follow the drops of blood makes me think of Halloween 2 when he puts his hand in the pool of blood where Micheal's body was laying. So it seems a bit like a Halloween 2 reference to me. I know people on here been asking for the Mr Sandman song from beginning of 2.

Thank you Spooky for making such a fun game. Got around 30 games on it today and looking to put many more. This is my first new in the box pin and it's been a great experience!

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He forgot SCREAM

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Yep. K.I.S.S.

I wouldn’t use any alcohol either. If you’ve got any old pins, you know what isopropyl alcohol does to the finish (hint: it removes it)

Simply wipe down with simple green to remove ball marks. I use a decent mix - probably 40% SG concentrate to 60% water. Spray it on - wipe it off. Easy.

If you really feel the need to shine it up, use some car type spray polish/wax. After all - they are coated in automotive clear coat. I have some Meguires stuff I use.

Novus - while I respect that it has been used for years, it is actually a plastic polish. Used for acrylic windscreens etc. Again, I use 3M car products. And I only use them when I do a full tear down. No need to do it all the time. Again - K.I.S.S.

rd

I am jonesing this game baddddd

Oh crap, I need to remove sling shot mylar from my Taxi and ordered freeze spray and isopropyl alcohol. I have Goo Gone pro but read it takes a long time to clear the glue. Sorry to side track what’s the best way to remove them?
Thanks.

Also I use car products on clear coated and real wax only on uncleared.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

Freeze spray generally works well. Just go slow. Either of those things are good with adhesive residue. As you say, you might need to leave Goo Gone on for 15 mins to let it do its thing. Slow and steady wins the race.

You want to be careful with mylar around inserts (shouldn’t be an issue in your case) because often you’ll pull off the print off the inserts.

Generally if I have a full mylared playfield, I’ll buff it up with 3M cutting compounds and it comes up super shiny. No need to remove mylar unless you have to.

rd

I have machine polished mylar with the cutting compounds and that works great and fast.

I just bought the pin and having to put playfield decals on then a protector for now as the Gorbi insert has a hole/cracks I didn’t see plus others are well worn.
Will decide later for hardtop/playfield route, have others waiting to be done and want it playable over the holidays. Thanks again.

Thankfully Spookys playfield are pretty solid so nothing to worry about there.

Congrats!! I sold my spot long ago to get on a CCr which i love. It looks like this game is really turning out to be great one so Congrats to all that stayed in the boat! Maybe next fall I'll finally bring one home.

I got the standard version knowing things like the knocker would not be included, which I planned to add later. I have a spooky knocker kit and decided to install it but it looks like there is something else I would need to add to connect it. It looks like it’s a small board that has connectors for the shaker and knocker but what wiring harness would I need and where does it plug in?

Mine came loose in shipping and was stuck in some of the wiring all the way in the far back of the cab, had to lift the the playfield all the way to find it.

Found them! They were stuck behind one of the back leg brackets and the cabinet, out of sight. Had to wiggle them out carefully so they would get jammed.

This game may be impossible. What do you need to do to get a free ball besides blood drops?
And what are you shooting for in Jack o lantern mb?
In my case I hope they have settings to make the modes a bit easier in the next code update. That still wont stop every ball from going sdtm though.
I know, play better.

Good question. I have yet to check that out, but I'm in the same boat. I just received my knocker kit from PBL last night and discovered that I now have to place another order for the $5 knocker/shaker board. I'm a big fan of Spooky, but this is ridiculous. We spend many thousands of dollars on a NIB game and then have to source a $5 board elsewhere. Just put the damn thing in every model and charge a few more bucks.

Beat 2 Modes. EB will light at the Scoop.

The board appears to be included in the PBL kit. Are you sure they didn't just forget to pack it? That might be a PBL first, but it's possible

https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-pinball-shaker-motor-kit-for-p-roc-system-machines.html

Glad I didn’t place my order yet. I wondered if I’d need the board. I emailed spooky if that kit would work which they said it would. No mention of the shaker/knocker board but was about to email because I seen the board in suggested items.

Not sure if I’ll do a shaker though. Knocker all the way.

We are talking about the knocker, not the shaker. The shaker kit comes with a board that runs itself. The knocker kit comes with no board. The board that you need to run the knocker is sold separately, but it has a port for both the knocker and shaker. What a cluster.

In mine it looks like that little board was installed and then removed based on the four little holes inside the backbox. I put the knocker in which had predrilled starter holes, but the ones for the board look like they were actually screwed into previously. Interesting.

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Mine looks the same.

No wonder I never got that. Lol

He comes home... tomorrow. My son and I are going on another florida road trip.. We're stoked. Whole family loves Halloween. We know what we are in for.. have UM already.. LET'S GOOOO!

Ok.. so 2k clearcoat is the favorite to protect the finish? Want to protect this thing as soon as we open it. Thanks!

Gotcha! Well, ok, I'm on board, then. That does suck - but on the other hand, it does allow you to just order the 1 board if you have a knocker and a shaker.