Halloween (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
Halloween (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021Quoted from McDoom:Is there a way to turn down the intensity of the shaker motor? Feels like Michael is breaking through the cabinet every time it goes off lol.
I’ve asked about this before. I don’t think there is. It’s too strong for me. Hopefully they’ll add a menu option for it.
Quoted from McDoom:Is there a way to turn down the intensity of the shaker motor? Feels like Michael is breaking through the cabinet every time it goes off lol.
Nope but you can adjust the weight on the shaker motor. The more out of balance it is the more it shakes. The weight is usually held in place with a couple set screws. The motor itself is bacisly a drill motor with a weight attached.
Quoted from Lpilot1:I’ve asked about this before. I don’t think there is. It’s too strong for me. Hopefully they’ll add a menu option for it.
If all fails a speed controller should work similar to this https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/spider-man/8478/speed-control-for-shaker-kit-for-stern-rev.-b
Quoted from McDoom:Is there a way to turn down the intensity of the shaker motor? Feels like Michael is breaking through the cabinet every time it goes off lol.
I called Spooky and AJ said this needs to be done in the code, and that's not implemented yet. It sounded like this was a low priority. Maybe call them too? They seem pretty responsive to customer feedback so maybe the more they hear about it the faster they'll work on it.
Quoted from WombatPinball:They messed up my DeadPool earlier this week too!! Such a joke how careless these shipping companies are!!
It's strange, I wonder if it is the local warehouses? I have had all my NIB shipped through R&L and they have been great near Chicago.
Quoted from Selig:It's strange, I wonder if it is the local warehouses? I have had all my NIB shipped through R&L and they have been great near Chicago.
Fingers crossed, I have a pin showing up this week via R&L
I made a code request thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/unofficial-halloween-ultraman-code-request-and-ideas#post-6961846
#495 butter up and running... It's a awesome looking pin and a great packing job! It's my first spooky pin and they did a great job packaging this up, plus I was stoked with the 2 very nice quality shipping blankets... my stern didn't have that, haha.... Love the little things....
hwn495 (resized).JPGIt is insane to me that this game is rated under an 8.0 on here and that it slid 10 spots on the top 100 in the last week. I’m still shredding on mine numerous times a day with no signs of stopping. It’s the only game I have at home while my others are on location and it is not getting old. Shoots like butter and those mode hurry ups are so satisfying. Not to mention cracking super jackpots on three levels simultaneously in Boogeyman and Jack-o-lantern. You can’t do that on any other pin in the world (correct me if I’m wrong) and frankly…it’s orgasmic. There…I said it.
Love this game so much I’m driving three hours to pick up an ACNC on Thursday. I think Spooky’s got me hook line and sinker. Imagine preferring some homogeneous Stern like LZ Mando or Rush to this game. There is no contest that HWN destroys these games in nearly every aspect.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Love this game so much I’m driving the hours to pick up an ACNC on Thursday. I think Spooky’s got me hook line and sinker...
I’m not much of a band pin guy myself (other than IMDN which I love…band and pin) I also love brutal games and I’m a fan of Coopers early albums so I’m kinda surprised I havnt gone after ACNC yet. I’ve played it a few times and I know I like it so I’m very excited to get it home and really dig into it. My plan is to have one dedicated Spooky spot at my location and swap the two out every few months.
Quoted from dnaman:It's a beautiful pin and fun theme. It's also a tight shooter. Although it obviously has AC songs in the game it isn't a 'band pin'. I loved our ACNC theme so much that I did a custom tower sculpt (Tower of Torture). I will likely add more to the pin at some point but it's been a blast so far. Congrats on getting two Spooky pins. Unique/bootique.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:It is insane to me that this game is rated under an 8.0 on here and that it slid 10 spots on the top 100 in the last week. I’m still shredding on mine numerous times a day with no signs of stopping. It’s the only game I have at home while my others are on location and it is not getting old. Shoots like butter and those mode hurry ups are so satisfying. Not to mention cracking super jackpots on three levels simultaneously in Boogeyman and Jack-o-lantern. You can’t do that on any other pin in the world (correct me if I’m wrong) and frankly…it’s orgasmic. There…I said it.
Love this game so much I’m driving three hours to pick up an ACNC on Thursday. I think Spooky’s got me hook line and sinker. Imagine preferring some homogeneous Stern like LZ Mando or Rush to this game. There is no contest that HWN destroys these games in nearly every aspect.
You sound just like me after I bought ACNC! Now I have Halloween coming (whenever that will be) and also picked up a Rick and Morty. 
You'll love ACNC it's such a fun game, and the music on it absolutely rocks. 
Another ACNC owner here…absolutely a blast to play, and some of the best art and animations in pinball. You will love it! Change the flipper bushings and enjoy!
Quoted from NewmanJerry:they did a great job packaging this up,
Do the butter cabs come wrapped in blankets? That's interesting
I have been watching people getting their machines and I actually think Spooky's choice for wrapping the machines could use some improvements going forward. When my machine arrived it had a big hole in it and a strap missing. I started to see a pattern looking at people's boxes arriving with a hole in same location. My conclusion: the cardboard substrate they used is too thin and the strap could be upgraded-may try an embossed .035+ poly or HD steel. Shippers or handlers are probably sliding the machines around grabbing the strap and ripping a hole in the box at the same time. I inspected mine for damage and it was all good, but I do see an issue. Shipping with Fed Ex, R & L, etc. is like playing Russian roulette nowadays. The way they handle freight is scary.
-ps post a pic of your full size stand up Michael-looks cool
Quoted from pinmister:Do the butter cabs come wrapped in blankets? That's interesting
I have been watching people getting their machines and I actually think Spooky's choice for wrapping the machines could use some improvements going forward. When my machine arrived it had a big hole in it and a strap missing. I started to see a pattern looking at people's boxes arriving with a hole in same location. My conclusion: the cardboard substrate they used is too thin and the strap could be upgraded-may try an embossed .035+ poly or HD steel. Shippers or handlers are probably sliding the machines around grabbing the strap and ripping a hole in the box at the same time. I inspected mine for damage and it was all good, but I do see an issue. Shipping with Fed Ex, R & L, etc. is like playing Russian roulette nowadays. The way they handle freight is scary.
-ps post a pic of your full size stand up Michael-looks cool
Yeah, the cardboard was only bad part of my packing. The box is pretty flimsy and was getting beat up just moving it around. Everything else was pretty solid (didn’t notice the straps) machine was well protected inside.
Quoted from mstang01:Yeah, the cardboard was only bad part of my packing. The box is pretty flimsy and was getting beat up just moving it around. Everything else was pretty solid (didn’t notice the straps) machine was well protected inside.
Might just seem flimsy because the bottom is separate from the top/sides letting it slide around some…
Quoted from pinmister:Do the butter cabs come wrapped in blankets? That's interesting
I have been watching people getting their machines and I actually think Spooky's choice for wrapping the machines could use some improvements going forward. When my machine arrived it had a big hole in it and a strap missing. I started to see a pattern looking at people's boxes arriving with a hole in same location. My conclusion: the cardboard substrate they used is too thin and the strap could be upgraded-may try an embossed .035+ poly or HD steel. Shippers or handlers are probably sliding the machines around grabbing the strap and ripping a hole in the box at the same time. I inspected mine for damage and it was all good, but I do see an issue. Shipping with Fed Ex, R & L, etc. is like playing Russian roulette nowadays. The way they handle freight is scary.
-ps post a pic of your full size stand up Michael-looks cool
I guess so for the extra grand one shells out! The blankets were 79" x 70" , my straps and box was in perfect shape from RL... My buddy who's been in this hobby forever said it was packed very nice, his only concern was the topper getting bent.... RL had that tip'n tell deal on the box also which I thought was cool... I bought the mike myers from Party City and plan on re-dressing him with more padding to make it look more real. So far game play is really cool but I'm a amateur so all these pins are cool to me!!!
hwn4951 (resized).JPGhwn4952 (resized).JPGQuoted from mpdpvdpin:I’m not much of a band pin guy myself (other than IMDN which I love…band and pin) I also love brutal games and I’m a fan of Coopers early albums so I’m kinda surprised I havnt gone after ACNC yet. I’ve played it a few times and I know I like it so I’m very excited to get it home and really dig into it. My plan is to have one dedicated Spooky spot at my location and swap the two out every few months.
Of all the pins I have sold to make room for new, I miss ACNC the most. You will love it.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Anybody know where they are with non-butter? The numbers seem all over the place.
Kingpin said my CE #724 was three weeks out a little over a week ago.
Quoted from jk2171:Another ACNC owner here…absolutely a blast to play, and some of the best art and animations in pinball. You will love it! Change the flipper bushings and enjoy!
flipper bushings? What were the symptoms that you were experiencing?
I was going to reach out to support because I hear a metal sound (not to be confused with Heavy Metal) when flipping with the right flipper(s) not sure if it is lower or upper. Is this a bushing issue?
Quoted from dnaman:flipper bushings? What were the symptoms that you were experiencing?
I was going to reach out to support because I hear a metal sound (not to be confused with Heavy Metal) when flipping with the right flipper(s) not sure if it is lower or upper. Is this a bushing issue?
Flippers felt weak; i think i read on the ACNC owners thread about swapping out flipper bushings which i did and they had a marked improvement. I was the second owner of the machine for a HUO game. I will say I wish ACNC had the same flippers as my Halloween has. Love those!
Clear plastic bridge over the drop targets broke on the right side and is hanging down. I’m assuming it’s required to protect the drops from air balls and can’t just be removed. Is it common enough that I need to figure out a way to beef this up from happening again in the future?
68B470A0-6F03-406B-B528-0EB5BBC26EDF (resized).jpegQuoted from Mundy53:Clear plastic bridge over the drop targets broke on the right side and is hanging down. I’m assuming it’s required to protect the drops from air balls and can’t just be removed. Is it common enough that I need to figure out a way to beef this up from happening again in the future?
[quoted image]
How many plays on it before it broke?
Quoted from Mundy53:Clear plastic bridge over the drop targets broke on the right side and is hanging down. I’m assuming it’s required to protect the drops from air balls and can’t just be removed. Is it common enough that I need to figure out a way to beef this up from happening again in the future?
[quoted image]
Yes, it’s happened to many of us and my guess is that by a hundred or so games they all break. I emailed spooky about it and they said it’s fine broken on the right like that as it still does the job, and I tend to agree. The only downside is how flimsy it is now as any contact with a nearby target has it shaking.
Somebody in this thread built their own protector out of larger plastic.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:How many plays on it before it broke?
I was probably at 100 or less when I noticed mine was broken.
Any word on the new graphic artist or team doing the revised and new display art/animations?
Any word on code, which likely comes along with the above?
New animations for Ultraman coming in July for Ultraman’s birthday. I’m assuming then the company will be working on Halloween (or the approval process will begin) and maybe we’ll see you in October for Halloween (samhain….the holiday)
I bet we’ll see another bug squash and polish before that and hopefully the final wizard mode in Oct with the animations
Just my guess.
Quoted from dnaman:Any word on the new graphic artist or team doing the revised and new display art/animations?
Any word on code, which likely comes along with the above?
Like many others, my shield had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes.
IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. It just appeared "cheap" to me. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I could come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.
Shield_01 (resized).jpgPosts (resized).jpgPosts_02 (resized).jpgShield_02 (resized).jpgShield_03 (resized).jpgShield_04 (resized).jpg
Quoted from John_C:Like many others, my shield had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes.
IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. It just appeared "cheap" to me. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I could come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It would be nice if this was put into production.
Quoted from John_C:Like many others, my shield had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes.
IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. It just appeared "cheap" to me. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I could come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mine is likewise broken, and I only noticed because the ball was getting stuck between the broken pieces of plastic.
While I wait for a new OEM protector, I’ll likely route a thicker protector as well.
Quoted from John_C:Like many others, my shield had broken in two spots due to repeated ball strikes.
IMO, this shield is too thin (only 1/16” thick) and not up to the rigors of use inside a pinball machine. I also did not like the way the thing vibrated / shivered all the time when being struck by balls, when the shaker motor kicked in, etc. It just appeared "cheap" to me. So when my shield inevitably broke, I knew I could come up with something better.
Using the OEM shield as a template, I changed the design up a bit making sure to beef up the arms and mounting points. Using my trusty sabre saw, I cut out my new shield from 3/16” thick polycarbonate. I then used progressive grits of sandpaper to get the edges cleaned and polished.
Because I was using a much thicker piece of plastic, I had to replace the posts on the main playfield because the threaded studs at the top were now too short. So I replaced the original posts using 1.25” hex standoffs, internally threaded for #6-32 screws. In order to attach the new posts to the playfield, I used what are called “hanger bolts.” These are about an inch long and threaded on one end with #6-32 threads and wood threads on the other.
With the new posts installed, it was now a simple matter of using screws to attach the new shield. Under the sanitarium playfield, I used socket cap screws, allowing me to use an allen wrench to snug them down. On the left side of the shield, I just used a couple of plain #6-32 screws.
Although this was quite a bit of work, the end result is a thousand times better. The shield no longer vibrates at all and is solid as a rock. I don’t think I ever have to worry about this component ever failing again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Damn, now I know what I need to do with my laser cutter. Once my game finally comes!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Damn, now I know what I need to do with my laser cutter. Once my game finally comes!
This is a great opportunity for a modder with a laser cutter to cut these thicker. And if they also have a laser engraver, cut something cool in the lengthwise portion like, “The Night HE Came Home” or something like that.
Quoted from Mudflaps:This is a great opportunity for a modder with a laser cutter to cut these thicker. And if they also have a laser engraver, cut something cool in the lengthwise portion like, “The Night HE Came Home” or something like that.
Or "The Blackest Eyes, The Devil's Eyes"
OR…a sticker on it that makes it look like the three drops are the clothesline and sheets from the film.
Quoted from Mudflaps:This is a great opportunity for a modder with a laser cutter to cut these thicker. And if they also have a laser engraver, cut something cool in the lengthwise portion like, “The Night HE Came Home” or something like that.
086F2CB2-299C-4BA1-BE9F-CBA54DF838A7 (resized).jpegPretty good ideas ! Still seems I’m a couple months away from getting my machine but these are definitely things to work on
BIG ball 1 today…Got all super jackpots for ‘House’ ‘Sanitarium’ and ‘hedge’ locked all six ball for 7 ball ‘Boogeyman’ fever then proceeded to film modes and got ‘Jack o Lantern’ all on ball one (but tilted and lost my bonus) Too bad I biffed the jackpot opportunities in the two wiz and sub wiz or this score could have been over 100mil on B1. On ball 2 and 3 I completed every mode except for ‘Stalker’ final score didn’t beat my GC but landed around 120mil. So addictive!!!
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:BIG ball 1 today…Got all super jackpots for ‘House’ ‘Sanitarium’ and ‘hedge’ locked all six ball for 7 ball ‘Boogeyman’ fever then proceeded to film modes and got ‘Jack o Lantern’ all on ball one (but tilted and lost my bonus) Too bad I biffed the jackpot opportunities in the two wiz and sub wiz or this score could have been over 100mil on B1. On ball 2 and 3 I completed every mode except for ‘Stalker’ final score didn’t beat my GC but landed around 120mil. So addictive!!!
[quoted image]
Wow!
Usually when I have that good a Ball 1, the other 2 go SDTM
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:BIG ball 1 today…Got all super jackpots for ‘House’ ‘Sanitarium’ and ‘hedge’ locked all six ball for 7 ball
No orbit shots? Put the glass back in and see how you do
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:BIG ball 1 today…Got all super jackpots for ‘House’ ‘Sanitarium’ and ‘hedge’ locked all six ball for 7 ball ‘Boogeyman’ fever then proceeded to film modes and got ‘Jack o Lantern’ all on ball one (but tilted and lost my bonus) Too bad I biffed the jackpot opportunities in the two wiz and sub wiz or this score could have been over 100mil on B1. On ball 2 and 3 I completed every mode except for ‘Stalker’ final score didn’t beat my GC but landed around 120mil. So addictive!!!
[quoted image]
You did this with the glass off correct?
; )
No glass, never heard that one before lol. Glass was on. 3 ball. Factory settings. Normal tilt. Also, this isn’t the first time I did this on ball one haha. Loving the game. Not easy by any stretch but when I’m on…I’m on.
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:No glass, never heard that one before lol. Glass was on. 3 ball. Factory settings. Normal tilt. Also, this isn’t the first time I did this on ball one haha. Loving the game. Not easy by any stretch but when I’m on…I’m on.
Any tips for hitting the hedge shots reliably? For the life of me I just haven't figured out how to dial in those shots. Can't backhand any of them. I can backhand the left orbit and the blood drop near Mike 3 bit all the other hedge shots are right flipper only and man, I'm struggling to get my groove with them. I REALLY want to hit those hurry ups!
Quoted from jb007gd:Any tips for hitting the hedge shots reliably? For the life of me I just haven't figured out how to dial in those shots. Can't backhand any of them. I can backhand the left orbit and the blood drop near Mike 3 bit all the other hedge shots are right flipper only and man, I'm struggling to get my groove with them. I REALLY want to hit those hurry ups!
They are hard shots. Depending on the velocity of the ball the end of the right flipper is your best bet. From right cradle you will be able to dial in hedge 2 and 3, but 1 is at the very tip, and I find it easiest with the ball coming down the inlane. You can back hand 1 and 2 from the left flipper, but the ball should either be on a bounce off the flipper or not to the flipper yet…it’s a soft shot, but possible.
This is good advice, there is also great opportunity for banking H 2/3 off the right sling. H1 is definitely a trap and shoot off the very tip situation. Don’t dig in on the flipper button, just give it a quick tap. Same goes for the drops, if you hit em full force they’ll reject. Finesse it! Also I look to Michaels hand between the flippers to line up shots to the hedges and orbit shots. Draw a mental line from the shot to the hand and memorize where each shot is. Works great for me!
Quoted from dnapac:They are hard shots. Depending on the velocity of the ball the end of the right flipper is your best bet. From right cradle you will be able to dial in hedge 2 and 3, but 1 is at the very tip, and I find it easiest with the ball coming down the inlane. You can back hand 1 and 2 from the left flipper, but the ball should either be on a bounce off the flipper or not to the flipper yet…it’s a soft shot, but possible.
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