(Topic ID: 300250)

Halloween owners thread…He’s Coming Home

By dnapac

11 months ago


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There are 8,054 posts in this topic. You are on page 115 of 162.
#5701 3 months ago
Quoted from underlord:

So how does one cure our bars and rails? Or just clean them with soap and water and add clear ourselves? Yes I’ve painted, but not at a pro level.

You’d have to bake it more which requires a powder coating oven. I don’t know the settings or powder composite they used, and wouldn’t guess. In powder coating small differences of degrees really matter and you can make it worse.

Clear coat is the way to go, IMHO.

#5702 3 months ago

#576 came in today. Box had a few big gashes which left some scrapes (not scratches) on the back of the head and one under the cabinet. Not the end of the world. What is stopping me so far from finishing setting it up is the topper. The knife was loose but still sticking out of the head, with an arm coming off it which I assume attaches to the pole on the motor on the topper to make the knife rotate. Except the arm does not attach to this piece. I mean, maybe it does, but it feels like I'd have to force it really hard. The pole off the topper motor has a flat side, while the hole in the arm off the knife is completely round.

halloween knife.jpg

Should there be another piece between the knife arm and the motor pole? Or, now that I see the photo zoomed in, there might be a set screw in that knife arm piece. Maybe that needs to be loosened and then the motor pole will fit in? Thanks. All the hard work was done, many pins moved, just about ready to slide it into place and put the balls in and fire it up and this set me back. I guess I'll just turn off the topper in settings if I can't figure it out or no one has an answer.

#5703 3 months ago

There's tiny Allen headed set screws that need backed off before the cam will slide onto the motor shaft. Hope that helps

#5704 3 months ago
Quoted from Charger68:

There's tiny Allen headed set screws that need backed off before the cam will slide onto the motor shaft. Hope that helps

Yep, that's what it was. This has to be the third or fourth time I took photos and came to Pinside for help only to figure out what to do based on the posted photos! Old man eyes.

Anyway, played one game so far, wow, what a beauty! The lights are insane, maybe the best in pinball right now. Shoots a lot better than I've heard, too. Obviously only one game in but there was plenty of flow. Oh man, looking forward to digging into this!

#5705 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

Do you already have another mode active? Does the game recognize you hit that scoop?

Nope happens from the start of the game. The only time the light doesn't work is when I sink a hedge ball

#5706 3 months ago
Quoted from BriannaWu:

Background: I restore Porsches as a hobby and have a powder coating oven in my workshop.
I don’t know if you’ve ever sanded off a single layer of clear coat, but it takes a while. I have every confidence a good, thick coat can stand up to years of fingerprint oil.
I’m not going to powdercoat more clear coat because this seems like a curing issue and I think it could affect the surface texture.

I'm going to let my powder coat guy make the call. I've used him for years with good results. All I know is Spooky keeps spraying them with clear and the problem is still occurring. Last I heard is everything is getting 3 coats of clear and Spooky still can't claim victory. I'm surprised you didn't go with two part clear if you have access to automotive paints. The actual manufacturer recommends a clear powder topcoat for this product. I'm not sure if that is still an option since Spooky is sealing these with spray clear. I do agree, I think the original problem is mostly a curing issue. My rails are a little tacky which tells me something is wrong with the application process.

#5707 3 months ago

I played 386 at a large pinball convention in AZ to weekend. No discoloration. I have no history on this pin, or amount of plays. Still glad I'm 920..

-1
#5708 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I'm going to let my powder coat guy make the call. I've used him for years with good results. All I know is Spooky keeps spraying them with clear and the problem is still occurring. Last I heard is everything is getting 3 coats of clear and Spooky still can't claim victory. I'm surprised you didn't go with two part clear if you have access to automotive paints. The actual manufacturer recommends a clear powder topcoat for this product. I'm not sure if that is still an option since Spooky is sealing these with spray clear. I do agree, I think the original problem is mostly a curing issue. My rails are a little tacky which tells me something is wrong with the application process.

No snark, but I’m not precisely what you mean by “two part clear.” When you mix clearcoat for an HPLV gun, there’s a ratio for how shiny/matte and how viscous you might want to make it so it flows well. But that’s primarily for matching other body panels and making it blend, or using reducer to make it flow more easily at low pressure for more control.

It’s not like a product with that ratio predetermined is crap. And, let’s be honest. This is a pinball machine that sits indoors - not a Honda Accord that will sit outside for decades. You’re just trying to add a protective barrier.

If you have a powder coat guy that is willing to try it, more power to you. I’m not particularly good at it. Please let other people know the temperature/times he’s baking for if you get a good result!

#5709 3 months ago
Quoted from Lpilot1:

I just noticed 3/4 of my lower LED light strip is out. Did you ever find a fix for this or replace it?

My lower LED strip went out (after the 1st diode as the zip tie appeared too tight) after 3 months and Spooky sent a replacement the next day. It's easy to replace, remove 2 screws holding diffusor, clip old zip ties, unplug old, plug in new etc.

#5710 3 months ago

Game #200, had since January. Powder coating has been fine. I have most my games powder coated at local shop, and I had this hammered brass vein like this done before on my tales from the crypt, and it did wear off after time on the lockdown, and it was also cleared.

IMG_20220505_095802 (resized).jpg
#5711 3 months ago
Quoted from BriannaWu:

No snark, but I’m not precisely what you mean by “two part clear.” When you mix clearcoat for an HPLV gun, there’s a ratio for how shiny/matte and how viscous you might want to make it so it flows well. But that’s primarily for matching other body panels and making it blend, or using reducer to make it flow more easily at low pressure for more control.
It’s not like a product with that ratio predetermined is crap. And, let’s be honest. This is a pinball machine that sits indoors - not a Honda Accord that will sit outside for decades. You’re just trying to add a protective barrier.
If you have a powder coat guy that is willing to try it, more power to you. I’m not particularly good at it. Please let other people know the temperature/times he’s baking for if you get a good result!

Two part paint is just referring to a product that requires a hardener to be added. You don’t get that in a rattle can (except for Max 2k). It is a far more durable product that is better suited for the wear and tear pinball armor will see. There is roughly 9” of surface area per side that constantly gets abused while the game is being played. In my opinion there is only 2 things that can take that kind of abuse for sure. That would be stainless steel and smooth or textured powder coat. I am really on the fence about any spayed clear coat. That being said, the one with the best chance of working would be something with a hardener added.

-1
#5712 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Two part paint is just referring to a product that requires a hardener to be added. You don’t get that in a rattle can (except for Max 2k). It is a far more durable product that is better suited for the wear and tear pinball armor will see. There is roughly 9” of surface area per side that constantly gets abused while the game is being played. In my opinion there is only 2 things that can take that kind of abuse for sure. That would be stainless steel and smooth or textured powder coat. I am really on the fence about any spayed clear coat. That being said, the one with the best chance of working would be something with a hardener added.

Oh! You’re talking about *activator* for the catalyst. That makes sense.

Yeah, having that happen from an HPLV gun could arguably be ideal - but it also has downsides. I won’t get into all of the drawbacks as this is not an automotive restoration board. But it just seems like overkill IMHO.

Biggest problem with HPLV clearcoating are fisheyes, dust particles and the like. 2k Rattlecan is not a bad product. It’s consistent, and assuming you’re doing light, quick coats - the odds of dripping are minimal

#5713 3 months ago

Has Spooky said anything on how they will handle this armor powder coat issue yet?

Are people with the early builds get something? Way to early for the machine to look bad.

I don't care about the Multiba playfield problem but nasty looking armor after a couple months has to be addressed.

#5714 3 months ago

While we are on the subject of powder, can we get any more concrete details on what will be used on the Bloodsucker edition? I remember seeing an early teaser video where it looked like it was planned to be smooth black metallic powdercoat. The powdercoating and armor are one of very few perks of opting for a BSE over an SE, so would like to know it won't just need redone anyway.

#5715 3 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

While we are on the subject of powder, can we get any more concrete details on what will be used on the Bloodsucker edition? I remember seeing an early teaser video where it looked like it was planned to be smooth black metallic powdercoat. The powdercoating and armor are one of very few perks of opting for a BSE over an SE, so would like to know it won't just need redone anyway.

It's black, but with a very heavy holographic flake throughout.

#5716 3 months ago

Put my CE up for sale. Great game , but need bucks. No problems with powder-coat. 1 HR from pinfest

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/134909

#5717 3 months ago

Is anyone selling a playfield protector for the Halloween pin? playfield-protectors.com says they won’t be making one.

#5718 3 months ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

My lower LED strip went out (after the 1st diode as the zip tie appeared too tight) after 3 months and Spooky sent a replacement the next day. It's easy to replace, remove 2 screws holding diffusor, clip old zip ties, unplug old, plug in new etc.

Spooky is sending me a replacement. Thanks!

#5719 3 months ago
Quoted from Cento:

Is anyone selling a playfield protector for the Halloween pin? playfield-protectors.com says they won’t be making one.

Nope and to be honest, you don't need one. Spooky playfields are pretty darn tough.

#5720 3 months ago
Quoted from Cento:

Is anyone selling a playfield protector for the Halloween pin? playfield-protectors.com says they won’t be making one.

Unfortunately not that I am aware of and now it's too late fo me as i've started playing mine.

I was in a waiting queue for two months with Sebastian as his HW was delayed and he finally came back to say that he couldn't figure out a way to make one that he was satisfied with due to the complexity of the pf design. It sounds like there might not have been enough areas to hold onto the protector and to have it lay flat without issues.

I had put off playing for a couple of months while I waited. I wish that they would have had one as an option.

#5721 3 months ago
Quoted from BriannaWu:

Oh! You’re talking about *activator* for the catalyst. That makes sense.
Yeah, having that happen from an HPLV gun could arguably be ideal - but it also has downsides. I won’t get into all of the drawbacks as this is not an automotive restoration board. But it just seems like overkill IMHO.
Biggest problem with HPLV clearcoating are fisheyes, dust particles and the like. 2k Rattlecan is not a bad product. It’s consistent, and assuming you’re doing light, quick coats - the odds of dripping are minimal

After reading previous posts on this forum I sprayed 2K gloss coat on HW #199 lock rail and lower side rails with pumpkin flipper surround. My powder coat before spraying looked nearly perfect. Looks good and I feel like the finish is better protected. Pleased enough that I then applied coatings to my RNM (light) and a heavier coat on my ACNC to simulate/match each machines finish reasonable closely. I am pleased with all 3 results. I let you know how things go in 5 years and thousands of plays later (I hope...).
John

10
#5722 3 months ago

I purchased #457 NIB from an individual last week. Drove it home for 3 hours plus in back of my pickup. It was my first time setting up a new game but it was simple. Like many have said, it is a work of art. It has played flawlessly since the first play and we have played it A TON in the first week. I have noticed some minor scuffs on the playfield, mostly at the lane for the left orbit, but it is very minor. Overall, the game is great and I am very happy with it. Sorry to see that others have had a few issues. I hope those get resolved for you, but people who have this game on order should remain pumped about it.

4B14DF13-3F51-4F07-B19F-05C49E642BE8 (resized).jpeg9CC3321E-2BD4-41DA-B774-B58BA596B8CB (resized).jpeg
#5723 3 months ago

I'm still waiting at 1067 (or something) - is this game dark? Anyone using pin stadiums? Any other suggestions?

#5724 3 months ago

My right flipper has appeared to drop in angle, the pin hole is clearly visible and it seems to be getting worse over time. I’ve watched some videos on under playfield flipper adjustments, but is there anything special I need to consider for this machine? It’s driving me nuts and I want to try to adjust this tonight.

#5725 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

My right flipper has appeared to drop in angle, the pin hole is clearly visible and it seems to be getting worse over time. I’ve watched some videos on under playfield flipper adjustments, but is there anything special I need to consider for this machine? It’s driving me nuts and I want to try to adjust this tonight.

Tighten the flipper bat in the pawl. Easy.

rd

#5726 3 months ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

I'm still waiting at 1067 (or something) - is this game dark? Anyone using pin stadiums? Any other suggestions?

No, it's not dark. Extra lighting not needed.

#5727 3 months ago

Easy fix just test it before you put the glass back on to make sure it hits the shots it needs to. It hours without saying that this should be done with the game off.

Quoted from Geeterman1:

My right flipper has appeared to drop in angle, the pin hole is clearly visible and it seems to be getting worse over time. I’ve watched some videos on under playfield flipper adjustments, but is there anything special I need to consider for this machine? It’s driving me nuts and I want to try to adjust this tonight.

#5728 3 months ago

DARK?!? It’s Halloween…pinstadiums would likely suck all the vibe out and slam dunk it into the toilet. This games lighting is one of its strong points for sure.

Quoted from mthirkell:

I'm still waiting at 1067 (or something) - is this game dark? Anyone using pin stadiums? Any other suggestions?

#5729 3 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

#576 came in today. Box had a few big gashes which left some scrapes (not scratches) on the back of the head and one under the cabinet. Not the end of the world. What is stopping me so far from finishing setting it up is the topper. The knife was loose but still sticking out of the head, with an arm coming off it which I assume attaches to the pole on the motor on the topper to make the knife rotate. Except the arm does not attach to this piece. I mean, maybe it does, but it feels like I'd have to force it really hard. The pole off the topper motor has a flat side, while the hole in the arm off the knife is completely round.
[quoted image]
Should there be another piece between the knife arm and the motor pole? Or, now that I see the photo zoomed in, there might be a set screw in that knife arm piece. Maybe that needs to be loosened and then the motor pole will fit in? Thanks. All the hard work was done, many pins moved, just about ready to slide it into place and put the balls in and fire it up and this set me back. I guess I'll just turn off the topper in settings if I can't figure it out or no one has an answer.

Mine fell off also after the first day. Really small Allen key is needed. 0.05”

#5730 3 months ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

DARK?!? It’s Halloween…pinstadiums would likely suck all the vibe out and slam dunk it into the toilet. This games lighting is one of its strong points for sure.

Pinstadiums on Halloween is like having the lights on when out of shape people have sex, totally kills the vibe.

#5731 3 months ago

Anyone making a shooter lane protector by chance?

#5732 3 months ago
Quoted from Lopa:

Easy fix just test it before you put the glass back on to make sure it hits the shots it needs to. It hours without saying that this should be done with the game off.

This ended up being tougher than I expected. I had to hold the bolt still with a hex driver tip because the screw driver wouldn’t fit in that space while using a socket to tighten the other side. Twice I thought I had it right enough but nope, kept coming loose during play.

Ended up learning a lot though. I also changed one spring on the drop targets but I really am lost on how to access the other two.

#5733 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

I really am lost on how to access the other two.

A set of Long Needlenose Pliers.

#5734 3 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone making a shooter lane protector by chance?

Piece of mylar will do it!

#5735 3 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

A set of Long Needlenose Pliers.

I considered it but am afraid/intimidated of flinging the stock spring off and not being able to get a new one on.

#5736 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

I considered it but am afraid/intimidated of flinging the stock spring off and not being able to get a new one on.

Don't worry. It's an imperfect world and springs fall out all the time. Its not that hard, just look to see how its down on like parts and replicate
Believe me we all started just learning a little bit here & there

#5737 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Piece of mylar will do it!

That's what I did too. Waiting for Cliffy to make one.

#5738 3 months ago

If the slipping continues you can “rough up the shaft” of the flipper with a little sandpaper or a file.

Quoted from Geeterman1:

This ended up being tougher than I expected. I had to hold the bolt still with a hex driver tip because the screw driver wouldn’t fit in that space while using a socket to tighten the other side. Twice I thought I had it right enough but nope, kept coming loose during play.
Ended up learning a lot though. I also changed one spring on the drop targets but I really am lost on how to access the other two.

#5739 3 months ago
Quoted from Lopa:

rough up the shaft

Fair bit of that in this hobby.

rd

#5740 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

I considered it but am afraid/intimidated of flinging the stock spring off and not being able to get a new one on.

No doubt it will test your patience the first time, but you'll be fine.

#5741 3 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

No doubt it will test your patience the first time, but you'll be fine.

Lots of this in pinball for me lol. MFing things quite frequently on repairs. There's enough resources and help from good people to eventually get things back alive.

#5742 3 months ago
Quoted from blastbeat:

Lots of this in pinball for me lol. MFing things quite frequently on repairs. There's enough resources and help from good people to eventually get things back alive.

I’m new to the hobby and this community and am amazed at how helpful everyone is.

#5743 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That's what I did too. Waiting for Cliffy to make one.

Just order the Alice Cooper shooter lane protectors. They fit perfectly.

36776651-3C19-474E-AE68-3E98B1B5A5BC.jpeg4F0E2393-673B-45A9-B316-51659DD26626.jpeg
#5744 3 months ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

I'm still waiting at 1067 (or something) - is this game dark? Anyone using pin stadiums? Any other suggestions?

I have pinstadiums fir my Alien and Alice Cooper. It I'd not needed at all on Halloween in my opinion. The led light strips light it up plenty.

#5745 3 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Just order the Alice Cooper shooter lane protectors. They fit perfectly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Outstanding - I just purchased one.

#5746 3 months ago

Where can i find that shooter lane protector? Thanks

Also on the 2k, matte or gloss? I assume gloss but im often wrong

#5747 3 months ago
Quoted from crassmage:

Where can i find that shooter lane protector? Thanks
Also on the 2k, matte or gloss? I assume gloss but im often wrong

I went with 2k gloss and was pleased with results.

#5748 3 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Just order the Alice Cooper shooter lane protectors. They fit perfectly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Didn't see a dedicated HW shooter lane in pinballlife. Were the shooter lane protectors on pinballlife sku #s PBL-200-0007-00 and PBL-200-0095-00?
Thanks

#5749 3 months ago
Quoted from crassmage:

Where can i find that shooter lane protector? Thanks
Also on the 2k, matte or gloss? I assume gloss but im often wrong

It is a Cliffy. Get it from Passion for Pinball. It is actually the one for Alice Cooper but works for Halloween also. Just email Cliff off his page and say you want one. He’ll send you an invoice.

#5750 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

It is a Cliffy. Get it from Passion for Pinball. It is actually the one for Alice Cooper but works for Halloween also. Just email Cliff off his page and say you want one. He’ll send you an invoice.

Thank you.

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