(Topic ID: 300250)

Halloween owners thread…He’s Coming Home

By dnapac

11 months ago


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16
#5601 3 months ago

Well Halloween finally came home and I am proud to be able to finally post in the owners thread.

My overall impressions are-I am blown away by this game!

The look of the machine is a work of art and it is really stunning in person. The design and layout are so unique and like nothing I have ever played before. The subways are refreshing and new. The modes are fun and the layout is sick. I am over the top with joy and this game was worth the wait. So different from any other game and I am digging it. It really helps when you love the theme-my buddy who helped me unbox it is not a horror fan and you can tell people who get it and people who do not. My only gripe was the excessive saw dust I had to clean up all over top and glass(jeesh it took me like a whole 2 minutes to clean) and the sound from speakers needs more dimension-thinking about adding a sub to this one? Is it worth it?

Added Superbands standard to lower and the Safecracker 0.5x1-5/16 Superbands to uppers

Now I need to find some replacement apron cards-I looked in mod thread and did not see any? Anyone have some custom apron cards for Halloween?

DSC00282 (resized).JPGDSC00283 (resized).JPGDSC00286 (resized).JPGDSC00287 (resized).JPG

#5602 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Jack O' Lantern MB which I believe is after 3 Modes? It says on the screen when picking a mode on the right.
Don;t know if adult mode is coded?

Quoted from pinmister:

Well Halloween finally came home and I am proud to be able to finally post in the owners thread.
My overall impressions are-I am blown away by this game!
The look of the machine is a work of art and it is really stunning in person. The design and layout are so unique and like nothing I have ever played before. The subways are refreshing and new. The modes are fun and the layout is sick. I am over the top with joy and this game was worth the wait. So different from any other game and I am digging it. It really helps when you love the theme-my buddy who helped me unbox it is not a horror fan and you can tell people who get it and people who do not. My only gripe was the excessive saw dust I had to clean up all over top and glass(jeesh it took me like a whole 2 minutes to clean) and the sound from speakers needs more dimension-thinking about adding a sub to this one? Is it worth it?
Added Superbands standard to lower and the Safecracker 0.5x1-5/16 Superbands to uppers
Now I need to find some replacement apron cards-I looked in mod thread and did not see any? Anyone have some custom apron cards for Halloween?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats! djsolzs will be making apron cards soon I believe.

#5603 3 months ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Well Halloween finally came home and I am proud to be able to finally post in the owners thread.
My overall impressions are-I am blown away by this game!
The look of the machine is a work of art and it is really stunning in person. The design and layout are so unique and like nothing I have ever played before. The subways are refreshing and new. The modes are fun and the layout is sick. I am over the top with joy and this game was worth the wait. So different from any other game and I am digging it. It really helps when you love the theme-my buddy who helped me unbox it is not a horror fan and you can tell people who get it and people who do not. My only gripe was the excessive saw dust I had to clean up all over top and glass(jeesh it took me like a whole 2 minutes to clean) and the sound from speakers needs more dimension-thinking about adding a sub to this one? Is it worth it?
Added Superbands standard to lower and the Safecracker 0.5x1-5/16 Superbands to uppers
Now I need to find some replacement apron cards-I looked in mod thread and did not see any? Anyone have some custom apron cards for Halloween?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

djsolzs should be able to hook you up on apron cards.

#5604 3 months ago

I had mine get confused yesterday. Was in a mode and maybe triggered another moment of sorts. When the ball drained, it didn't release the Judith locked ball or anything. Kicked in a ball search but just had to reboot. All ok after.

#5605 3 months ago

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

#5606 3 months ago

You can always just ask Spooky to move you to the back of the line.

Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

#5607 3 months ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

They let you do payments? I plan on having it by the time it's up but just in case be nice to know.

#5608 3 months ago
Quoted from Oneinchbiceps:

They let you do payments? I plan on having it by the time it's up but just in case be nice to know.

Initial deposit and then the rest once its ready to be shipped.

#5609 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

Hi all, just joined the club today and this is my first pin so I’m a complete newbie. I picked up a gently used (looks to be in perfect condition) and I noticed my topper isn’t working when I set it up. Upon further inspection one of the wires (pink) came off the connection likely due to my 5 year old aggressively ripping the wrap off the machine.
Is this wire just soldered on? [quoted image]

I have no skin in this game but it’s soldering 101 to make a physical/mechanical connection with your wire to whatever you are soldering. Ie that wire should have been threaded into the hole and looped around the lug to make a stronger connection.

#5610 3 months ago
Quoted from insight75:

Initial deposit and then the rest once its ready to be shipped.

Ahh I see. I'll be good.

#5611 3 months ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

I'm sure we'll continue to hear all aboot the journey

#5612 3 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

I have no skin in this game but it’s soldering 101 to make a physical/mechanical connection with your wire to whatever you are soldering. Ie that wire should have been threaded into the hole and looped around the lug to make a stronger connection.

You've no idea the amount of times I've seen lugs that didn't have wire wrapped around it like it should from previous repairs.... makes me crazy.

Plus, you can see this giant lump where it was originally wound around the lug from the factory, broke off for some reason or another, and somebody just soldered it on top of the previous solder+wire lump. Infuriating.

#5613 3 months ago

I'm loving this game more and more, truly a great game!

Has anyone managed to get rid of the insane glass rattle? I tried electrical tape down the edges of the glass, and between the side rails and the channel, but I can't seem to get it to stop rattling like crazy with the audio...

#5614 3 months ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

I'm loving this game more and more, truly a great game!
Has anyone managed to get rid of the insane glass rattle? I tried electrical tape down the edges of the glass, and between the side rails and the channel, but I can't seem to get it to stop rattling like crazy with the audio...

Great question. I was going to look for a solution for this as well. My rattle only happens with the shaker though,....not yet with the audio. I know usually you can turn down the bass and it helps on other spooky machines.

#5615 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I'm sure we'll continue to hear all aboot the journey

About

#5616 3 months ago

Honestly looking forward to your reaction. Obviously your not the only one out there on the fence - I’m hoping you come back with an honest opinion.

Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

#5617 3 months ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Honestly looking forward to your reaction. Obviously your not the only one out there on the fence - I’m hoping you come back with an honest opinion.

Thanks I threw one final low ball offer out to someone then if not mike comes home.

#5618 3 months ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

I'm loving this game more and more, truly a great game!
Has anyone managed to get rid of the insane glass rattle? I tried electrical tape down the edges of the glass, and between the side rails and the channel, but I can't seem to get it to stop rattling like crazy with the audio...

This trick should always work - if you are still getting a lot of glass rattle, probably its just not being held in the rails securely enough, and you can add another layer or 2 of tape. Depending on the strength of the sub/shaker, the glass does need to held in pretty firmly, just not so tight you can't get it out again!

You can also buy anti rattle tape (its a little thicker than electrical tape and is a nice, thin strip already cut to the perfect size) , and one strip down each side of the glass is usually enough. If the glass guide channels are quite wide and it is still loose, you can put a strip on both sides. However, electrical tape does pretty much the same job - and as mentioned, you might just have to layer it to get a little more thickness.

#5619 3 months ago
Quoted from damadczar:

You've no idea the amount of times I've seen lugs that didn't have wire wrapped around it like it should from previous repairs.... makes me crazy.
Plus, you can see this giant lump where it was originally wound around the lug from the factory, broke off for some reason or another, and somebody just soldered it on top of the previous solder+wire lump. Infuriating.

Presumably that somebody is a Spooky employee.

#5620 3 months ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

Has anyone managed to get rid of the insane glass rattle?

Here is a post I did in the ACNC thread. Works mint. I’ll be doing it again on my HW.

<pasted>

Ok … ages ago I said I would build up a sub box and port the cabinet on my Spooky games, to stop the glass rattling.

Last night I finally got around to it.

Stage 1 - Port the cabinet!
~ The glass rattling is because the sub is creating waves of air in the cabinet, and the air has nowhere to go. A lot of bass comes off the BACK of bass speakers. That’s why pro PA bass cabinets are ported in some way - half the sound comes out the ports, not the front of the speaker as you’d think.

So - drill some holes! I chose a 2 1/4” hole saw and went to work. I drilled the holes at the rear of the speaker - reasonably close, so the sides of a sub box would cover them. (You want the holes inside the sub box, of course …)

Here is the result!

4C5969E2-47E4-4266-8CBD-74D75918F2DB (resized).jpeg

The result of these holes - all bass rattle has gone.

I turned the amp bass up full. Still no rattle.

You know at the start of each ACNC ball - if you leave the ball in the shooter lane the background music has a pulsing bass … this usually shakes the machine like crazy. Now - nothing. Sounds cool. No added mechanical noises that we can notice.

Cosmetically, it just needs some mesh stapled over the holes (if you care about such things)

Cost of this mod …. $0.

A free mod in pinball! WTF!

Priceless.

Now to me, I’m happy with the result and I may leave it as is.

However - one day I may be bored and whip up a sub box to see what happens. My prediction would be that the bass output would increase, and the bass would be tighter, as the box hastens the exit of the sound from the cabinet (rather than it swirling around inside the cabinet). Maybe I’ll make one. One day.

So - go drill some holes!

Enjoy.
rd

#5621 3 months ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Well I am putting in my final payment tomorrow. Hoping I’ll love this game.

I'm not a betting man, but I'd lay money on you loving it.

#5622 3 months ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

This trick should always work - if you are still getting a lot of glass rattle, probably its just not being held in the rails securely enough, and you can add another layer or 2 of tape. Depending on the strength of the sub/shaker, the glass does need to held in pretty firmly, just not so tight you can't get it out again!
You can also buy anti rattle tape (its a little thicker than electrical tape and is a nice, thin strip already cut to the perfect size) , and one strip down each side of the glass is usually enough. If the glass guide channels are quite wide and it is still loose, you can put a strip on both sides. However, electrical tape does pretty much the same job - and as mentioned, you might just have to layer it to get a little more thickness.

Another trick is to cut up some zip ties and wedge 4 or 5 approximately one inch pieces between the top of the plastic glass channel and the side rail on each side.

#5623 3 months ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Another trick is to cut up some zip ties and wedge 4 or 5 approximately one inch pieces between the top of the plastic glass channel and the side rail on each side.

That sucks. Because the glass is a PITA to get in and out.

I had them in my game. One night the glass got jammed up and I said F**K THIS and went to work with the hole saw.

rd

#5624 3 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

That sucks. Because the glass is a PITA to get in and out.
I had them in my game. One night the glass got jammed up and I said F**K THIS and went to work with the hole saw.
rd

You just want to use the normal thin ones, not handcuff grade

#5625 3 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Here is a post I did in the ACNC thread. Works mint. I’ll be doing it again on my HW.
<pasted>
Ok … ages ago I said I would build up a sub box and port the cabinet on my Spooky games, to stop the glass rattling.
Last night I finally got around to it.
Stage 1 - Port the cabinet!
~ The glass rattling is because the sub is creating waves of air in the cabinet, and the air has nowhere to go. A lot of bass comes off the BACK of bass speakers. That’s why pro PA bass cabinets are ported in some way - half the sound comes out the ports, not the front of the speaker as you’d think.
So - drill some holes! I chose a 2 1/4” hole saw and went to work. I drilled the holes at the rear of the speaker - reasonably close, so the sides of a sub box would cover them. (You want the holes inside the sub box, of course …)
Here is the result!
[quoted image]
The result of these holes - all bass rattle has gone.
I turned the amp bass up full. Still no rattle.
You know at the start of each ACNC ball - if you leave the ball in the shooter lane the background music has a pulsing bass … this usually shakes the machine like crazy. Now - nothing. Sounds cool. No added mechanical noises that we can notice.
Cosmetically, it just needs some mesh stapled over the holes (if you care about such things)
Cost of this mod …. $0.
A free mod in pinball! WTF!
Priceless.
Now to me, I’m happy with the result and I may leave it as is.
However - one day I may be bored and whip up a sub box to see what happens. My prediction would be that the bass output would increase, and the bass would be tighter, as the box hastens the exit of the sound from the cabinet (rather than it swirling around inside the cabinet). Maybe I’ll make one. One day.
So - go drill some holes!
Enjoy.
rd

You could also add tubes to the back of those holes to improve the bass, different lengths change the output and frequency range.

#5626 3 months ago
Quoted from BriannaWu:

Uh, y'all. Something is *seriously* wrong with my Halloween machine when I wake it up after a few hours. I captured this video, and when I opened up the backglass to record the logs - there was a very strong electrical short smell. Not solder, but something just acrid and burning.
Spooky, y'all can read my posts here. I'm not a hater or unreasonable - but Halloween in this state feels like a fire hazard. I've written you guys support email - and it's taking multiple days to get responses. When I do - my questions are not being read carefully enough to get answers to them.
We're beyond "run the update" (which it doesn't need.) I need some real help with this.

The light boards on the upper playfield burn. Take a look under and see if there is discoloration of the white connections. Light smoke under the glass and a electric smell or plastic smell.

118B419B-B277-4A3F-9BA1-F99795EB42AE (resized).jpeg

#5627 3 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

You could also add tubes to the back of those holes to improve the bass, different lengths change the output and frequency range.

Indeed they do.

I think a box would make the sound a lot more immediate and punchy. Tubes would alter it again.

But at the end of the day, it’s a pinball machine, not a PA system or an audiophile device … so it’ll do the trick as it is just fine.

And most importantly the bloody glass doesn’t rattle any more!

rd

11
#5628 3 months ago

403 butter arrived today! Looks so awesome in person (and I’m not even a fan of the movie).

It was really late by the time I got it setup so I only got 3 games in (with gloves on until I can add a clear coat to the armor later this week). Initial gameplay impressions are very good. Really fun and smooth to shoot. Faster than expected but pausing for the blood store/mode selections threw my flow off a bit compared to how my R&M automatically selects rewards/adventures. That said, I really appreciate how different and unique this pin is to play. Especially liking how the upper playfields are incorporated. Favorite moment so far was the ball magnet/ghost scene. No clunky brick shots except I had about 50% success rate on the pumpkin scoop so I’ll be looking to alter that. The lights and audio are so good in a dark room. Just hoping the volume levels get evened out with user settings. Even at the lowest volume some parts can get very loud. Otherwise, no issues out of the box except the topper LED strip is not working and the wires connecting it get very hot. Emailed support and expect it will be no big deal.

Great initial experience. Looking forward to playing the shit out of it.

2156C593-0C0B-4DAA-881E-C2AF7E7D80AB (resized).jpeg

#5629 3 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Here is a post I did in the ACNC thread. Works mint. I’ll be doing it again on my HW.
<pasted>
Ok … ages ago I said I would build up a sub box and port the cabinet on my Spooky games, to stop the glass rattling.
Last night I finally got around to it.
Stage 1 - Port the cabinet!
~ The glass rattling is because the sub is creating waves of air in the cabinet, and the air has nowhere to go. A lot of bass comes off the BACK of bass speakers. That’s why pro PA bass cabinets are ported in some way - half the sound comes out the ports, not the front of the speaker as you’d think.
So - drill some holes! I chose a 2 1/4” hole saw and went to work. I drilled the holes at the rear of the speaker - reasonably close, so the sides of a sub box would cover them. (You want the holes inside the sub box, of course …)
Here is the result!
[quoted image]
The result of these holes - all bass rattle has gone.
I turned the amp bass up full. Still no rattle.
You know at the start of each ACNC ball - if you leave the ball in the shooter lane the background music has a pulsing bass … this usually shakes the machine like crazy. Now - nothing. Sounds cool. No added mechanical noises that we can notice.
Cosmetically, it just needs some mesh stapled over the holes (if you care about such things)
Cost of this mod …. $0.
A free mod in pinball! WTF!
Priceless.
Now to me, I’m happy with the result and I may leave it as is.
However - one day I may be bored and whip up a sub box to see what happens. My prediction would be that the bass output would increase, and the bass would be tighter, as the box hastens the exit of the sound from the cabinet (rather than it swirling around inside the cabinet). Maybe I’ll make one. One day.
So - go drill some holes!
Enjoy.
rd

Oh wow, that looks like it may do the trick.

Now I wonder if the wife would let me drill holes into her pinball machine

#5630 3 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Indeed they do.
I think a box would make the sound a lot more immediate and punchy. Tubes would alter it again.
But at the end of the day, it’s a pinball machine, not a PA system or an audiophile device … so it’ll do the trick as it is just fine.
And most importantly the bloody glass doesn’t rattle any more!
rd

Very true mate, I thought about doing the sealed or ported box thing in the cab but that’s as far as I got!

Stop the rattling is a priority for sure, since I added a 15” external sub to a few of my pins I’m never messing about fitting better subs in a cab again and I have one spare way left on my Pinovators splitter for this pin

I blew an internal fuse the other day that’s why it’s on the lift, heavy bugger that one!
It’s just my room and some of the back glasses that rattle now lol
0747F1F6-0C55-4CFB-998F-4F667CAB3160 (resized).jpeg

#5631 3 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I was having some issues with the three center drop targets either not dropping all the way or not dropping at all with a solid hit. No issues with the other drops.
I pulled the springs and discovered the center drops have a shorter spring than the other three separate drops. I switched springs and sure enough, the single drop springs worked great. I reached out to Spooky for new center drop target springs.
There was a similar issue with the Scolari brothers drops in GB fixed with new springs.
Edit: The good spring, as confirmed by Spooky, is a 10-364.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html
[quoted image]

Is this a really easy change? I’ve never changed anything on a pinball machine but I have to imagine this is as simple as it gets and want to change these out as mine don’t always drop.

#5632 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

Is this a really easy change? I’ve never changed anything on a pinball machine but I have to imagine this is as simple as it gets and want to change these out as mine don’t always drop.

Easy is a relative term. If you’re new and have never messed with a pinball machine, I’d be very careful.

I’d recommend you lift the playfield and check out the drop target mech. Take a look at the springs. The outer springs are easy to access, but the middle one will require you to unscrew the entire mech. If you feel comfortable, give it a shot. If it looks too intimidating, I’d wait. And always make sure the game is powered off before messing with anything.

#5633 3 months ago
Quoted from frankmac:

The light boards on the upper playfield burn. Take a look under and see if there is discoloration of the white connections. Light smoke under the glass and a electric smell or plastic smell.
[quoted image]

Wow that looks really bad. Too much current I guess? (Serial LED amperage adds up quick). Maybe a bad connector adding more resistance and heat?

#5634 3 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Easy is a relative term. If you’re new and have never messed with a pinball machine, I’d be very careful.
I’d recommend you lift the playfield and check out the drop target mech. Take a look at the springs. The outer springs are easy to access, but the middle one will require you to unscrew the entire mech. If you feel comfortable, give it a shot. If it looks too intimidating, I’d wait. And always make sure the game is powered off before messing with anything.

Appreciate the guidance. I’ll buy some art blade guards and springs and take a look.

What does it take to unscrew the mech? Standard screw driver?

#5635 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

Appreciate the guidance. I’ll buy some art blade guards and springs and take a look.
What does it take to unscrew the mech? Standard screw driver?

Hex screws, so you’ll need a hex socket screwdriver.

#5636 3 months ago

Put my name in for the house mod-super cool
Does the house mod come with the sidewalk sticker for ramp or is that another vendor? My ramp is getting scratched up good and I want to cover it with a sticker. I was thinking stairs but the sidewalk makes more sense. Where do I get the sticker?

#5637 3 months ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

Wow that looks really bad. Too much current I guess? (Serial LED amperage adds up quick). Maybe a bad connector adding more resistance and heat?

Yes , Bad is when smoke fills under the glass. Never had a pin do that before.

9B259AF7-5B8F-4A82-87B6-DA0AA1622B2B (resized).jpeg
#5638 3 months ago

Yikes, do you have an earlier build or a more current number?

Quoted from frankmac:

Yes , Bad is when smoke fills under the glass. Never had a pin do that before.
[quoted image]

#5639 3 months ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Put my name in for the house mod-super cool
Does the house mod come with the sidewalk sticker for ramp or is that another vendor? My ramp is getting scratched up good and I want to cover it with a sticker. I was thinking stairs but the sidewalk makes more sense. Where do I get the sticker?

The decals are separate from the house. Here’s the decal link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1267-cento-creations/05718-halloween-cover-up-mod-2-piece3-piece-or-5-piece-decal-set

#5640 3 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

The decals are separate from the house. Here’s the decal link:

Nice thanks bro-just ordered the 2 piece. Not sure I like the look of upper stairs(can't tell they are stairs and not sure about upper sticker if you are going to purchase the house that will cover it up. My ramp is getting scratched to shit and does not look good to me-sidewalk sticker to the rescue.

10
#5641 3 months ago

I think I've posted this before, but I want to make sure everyone has a good understanding of drop target springs. Here is a summary:

10-364 - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html
This is what I'd consider the LIGHT spring. It's what we used in the original builds. It's the weakest spring and worked consistently in early games, but users started reporting issues with drop targets being rejected. If that's happening on your game, my first suggestion would be to just skip some rings on this spring to tighten them up. A 5-minute adjustment with a needle-nose pliers.

265-5003-00 - https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html
This is what I'd consider the MEDIUM spring. It's what we're using in current builds. I feel this is the goldilocks spring. There might still be a limited number of rejects, but we haven't seen any drop target reset issues.

10-433 - https://www.pinballlife.com/drop-target-reset-spring.html
This is what I'd consider the HEAVY spring. A number of individuals on Pinside have switched to this machine with success. It will likely have the fewest number of rejects, but during our testing we experienced some drop target reset issues. If unchecked these issues could have burnt up the reset coil. I'm not saying don't use it, but I would advise the individual to keep a close eye on the behavior.

21
#5642 3 months ago

Super rough mockups of custom cards. I cleaned up some grammar and spelling inconsistencies with the instruction card.

Feedback? I can upload full sized cards when complete. I don't own the art, so these will be free to download.

card 5 (resized).pnghalloween 4 (resized).png
#5643 3 months ago
Quoted from Geeterman1:

Is this a really easy change? I’ve never changed anything on a pinball machine but I have to imagine this is as simple as it gets and want to change these out as mine don’t always drop.

Don’t sweat it. Everything comes apart with enough leverage.*

*my go to is an air hammer.

#5644 3 months ago

These look great! I am working on a couple myself - if anyone is interested I print cards for games using a sublimation process to metal. Has a nice look on metal just let me know. I only do it by word of mouth and have some examples from people in posts here on pinside if you want to check them out.

$35 shipped per set - discount for additional sets if you are interested in other titles.

Quoted from Mudflaps:

Super rough mockups of custom cards. I cleaned up some grammar and spelling inconsistencies with the instruction card.
Feedback? I can upload full sized cards when complete. I don't own the art, so these will be free to download. [quoted image][quoted image]

#5645 3 months ago

Are we going to glaze over this fire hazard? Or is it a rare instance most owners currently haven't experienced?

Quoted from frankmac:

Yes , Bad is when smoke fills under the glass. Never had a pin do that before.
[quoted image]

#5646 3 months ago
Quoted from Mkvgti:

Are we going to glaze over this fire hazard? Or is it a rare instance most owners currently haven't experienced?

Well everyone says they want a world under glass!

#5647 3 months ago
Quoted from Mkvgti:

Are we going to glaze over this fire hazard? Or is it a rare instance most owners currently haven't experienced?

I had a Stern emit smoke when a pop coil locked on solid and then fried itself. Not a Spooky only thing and so far haven't experienced it with any of my 3 Spooky's.

#5648 3 months ago
Quoted from Mkvgti:

Are we going to glaze over this fire hazard? Or is it a rare instance most owners currently haven't experienced?

I’ve never seen anything like that. I bet Spooky would like to investigate what’s going on. I’d reach out to them.

#5649 3 months ago
Quoted from Mkvgti:

Are we going to glaze over this fire hazard? Or is it a rare instance most owners currently haven't experienced?

This was one isolated incident. Let's not turn it into yet another Spooky witch hunt.

#5650 3 months ago

Understood and agreed. Just getting closer to my delivery (and my first pin) - getting that nervous energy...

Quoted from Jediturtle:

This was one isolated incident. Let's not turn it into yet another Spooky witch hunt.

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