Yea, it's all fun and games til you plug it in. Then it's like you went back to work for some overtime you never asked for or wanted and on top of it don't expect to be paid. Maybe the boys from spooky pinball can drive up from pinfest next week and finish building my games as their nice to look at but completely unplayable. I'll do my best to refrain from here on out but its obvious NO ONE TESTED EITHER OF MY GAMES BEFORE SHIPPING.
F_N FACT!

Oh wow!! Did that happen out of the box or after a few plays?

I have not seen the movies and and my daughters boyfriend loves Halloween and did not know that. Could do without the smart ass comment btw. Not everyone knows that btw.

He was joking. Michael Jackson had a monkey/chimp named Bubbles

Lol, wow so defensive! I wasn't being a smart-ass, I was being facetious and playing with the name Michael (Jackson), who owned a famous monkey named bubbles in the 80's.

Sure sounds like a monkey to me and family lol. Even they said why is there a monkey whimpering.

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Not everyone knows that either you smart ass!!!

Did you check that flipper switch stack?

Hey guys - trying to put the legs on my new butter cab and having a serious issue not having the front left leg tough the butter cab - which of course I don't want. I am not new - and have assembled literally hundreds of pins. I am using the felt that came with it, but no matter how I adjust the leg before I tighten the bolts, it always wants to suck it in one side and touch the cab. Luckily I have caught it - because I am super retentive - before it touched the cab nd marked it.

I tried all three legs. It's almost as if the corner nuts that the leg bolts go in are not quite 45 degrees, causing it to tilt off to the side. Anyone else have this issue or have an idea how to fix it? Thanks! The cabinet is beautiful and I absolutely do not want to jack it up with these legs - I have seen that way too many times, lol.

It is going to make some contact regardless. The factory metal leg protectors and felt really minimize the damage. It isn't like the old Williams / Bally where it digs in and wrinkles / tears the art. You could get a couple washers big enough to slide over your leg bolts. Put them in a vice and bang them into a 90% angle. Inset those between the factory metal leg protector and felt. It will give you a couple more millimeters of space.

The purpose of metal leg protectors is to prevent the legs from ever touching cabinet artwork. Are there no leg protectors on the butter cabs? Only felt?

Ugh first game. I guess the fix is to move the plastic part on top?

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Are there any recent unboxings where the setup was smooth and the pin played NEARLY flawless out of the box? I would expect these games should be qc'd pretty extensivelly, but it appears they have not been, or minimally at best. Razors stuck to magnets x2...

Question for the group. Is it normal to play test all pins coming off the line? I don't want to assume.

It’s hard to get a decent pic. But I can physically feel it coming off to the touch.
Not sure what I can do at this point.
Mine has played perfectly. This has been my only issue.

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Yep loosen the right hand screw and slightly pull that right side downward towards the main playfield and then re tighten the screw on a slight angel or maybe even tap a new screw hole. It's a 5 min fix.

It's super frustrating seeing these things because we really do play through every single mode on every single game...at minimum. We check all of the typical ball traps including the house exit. I'm going to make a point to set them a little further apart since they seem to be swelling up. After play testing they go to our cleaners, who vacuum and polish them up before shipping. We will talk with them about triple checking around the speaker magnets.

Addressing some of the issues posted: I did see a flipper roll pin come lose in a picture above. I've seen that on a few games. I'd squeeze it back in, but if it happens again we'll send out a new arm. The roll pin may just be defective. Someone mentioned the lifters sticking up. My first thought is that it's getting caught on the sling rubber. Probably just some extra slack on the back side. A little tug to move that slack will probably do the trick, but you can also recenter the lifter if it's moves over towards the center. Someone mentioned the upper flipper not working. The first thing to check is the test menu. If it's working in the menu, but not in gameplay make sure you actually have house qualified. The flippers only work when you are on that level. Outside of that I'd check your flipper button. Has the metal switch shifted? You can also check that in the switch menu.

More then anything know we're here to help. There is a service number right inside every game. Emails also work well. 90% of the calls we get are super simple items that just shifted slightly in shipping, but if it's something more complex we'll figure it out for you.

That's how it arrived - no games played.

I fixed the topper and the inlane flaps. If you have the issue with the metal flaps just loosen the posts holding the metal tongues a tiny bit and they should relax right back down. My right one was so tight/offset the flap would stay snapped up 2/3 of an inch. Now both flaps are nice and flush with the playfield.

Fixing the left upper flipper is not so simple... There is plenty of space around the shaft/plastic connection to fit a screw with a nut behind, but right now I can't reach back there from under the playfield or from the side, so I ordered some bent, long reach pliers to see if I can hold a nut behind the shaft/plastic piece *while* holding down the spring and putting a screw in. If this fails I'll write to Spooky, but I am thinking the only way to work there will be to remove both of the upper playfields, which looks like will be a major PITA.

Other than this last problem, I ran all tests and checked everything with the glass off and it all looks great - the cab is perfect, and everything else on the playfield seems to work. The game looks like it should be a blast once I get the last bit fixed.

Ok all, just set mine up and fired it up. Played two games before I noticed the flashers are not working. They are on continuous all the time - no flashing. When I go to test mode and test them all on - they turn but again, do not flash. Any idea of the cause or what I should check?

Also, when is the jacko latern light/flasher supposed to light? It will light (continuously as mentioned above) in flasher test, but does not seem to come on any other time. Again - I have only played two games and didn't get super far - so I am not saying something is wrong with that light, but want to know when it is supposed to work.

So far butter cab is beautiful but Spooky definitely has some QC issues. So far - mine have been relatively minor. I do have a dime sized "smudge" on the front of the cab that looks almost like adhesive - or a fingerprint in the clear. Hard to tell. I tried to hand polish it out - lightly, but it remains. I'll contact spooky before I try anything else to remove it.

Also had the boot print in the backbox. Sorry Spooky but what gives with that? There is at least one other owner in this thread that had the same thing. While it does not appear there as any damage because of it, a boot print in the backbox does not promote quality or QC.

The Shooter rod bezel was also crazy crooked. And it was tight, so it didn't happen in shipping it was assembled that way. Was an easy - but unnecessary fix - luckily it did not indent into the butter cab when it was assembled crooked so it looks perfect now that it is straightened.

I haven't tested all switches and servos yet and I still need to do that. hopefully will do that tonight. Anyone have any ideas about the flashers? Thanks!

Fixed the exit gap but now it rubs against the upper flipper . Guess I’ll wait for a permanent replacement / fix

Nevermind it’s fixed and no flipper binding case solved ! Thanks

Howdy everyone. Put about five or 6 games on the machine today and I can say I absolutely love the theme and potential of this pin. Once the code is buffed up, i think this is going to be one heck of a pin. And as everyone else has said, the butter cab is amazing. I do have multiple questions I was hoping folks could answer on features/issues. I tried looking through many of the pages here, but it is a 107 page thread lol. I am guessing many of these things are code issues, which is fine, I know it will improve - I am just trying to understand if this is currently how it should operate -if that makes sense. Here are my questions/issues:

1. Flashers. The flashers DO work during game play. They routinely flash during certain modes, etc. So they work. But they are generally on most of the time - NOT flashing. Almost like GI lamps. Even when I go into test, they all light up - steady - but do not flash. When in attract mode they do not flash, they are steady on. Is this normal?

2. Topper. When is the topper supposed to work? It does indeed work and if I go into test, it will work. Also, if I push the left or right flipper when in attract mode, it will have Loomis saying something and then cycle the topper about half a turn. So it does work, just haven't seen it work during a game. Does it work in certain modes that I have not gotten to?

3. Michaels/hedge. Like most have noticed, the Michael figures move often when the ball goes near or strikes the left side of the playfield. They do come out and go back as they should when the ball goes in each hedge, but they also. move out slightly at other times without the ball going into the hole. I did read the thread, but am not sure I saw a fix yet. I assume this is normal as of now? Is there a fix?

4. Attract mode and music. Do these work yet? I ask because I turned them both on in the menu (attract sounds/music to "true") but they don't play when the machine is in attract mode. If I hit the right or left flipper, they I will get some attract sounds/music/topper, but it's brief and doesn't play other than when I hit the flipper. Again, if this is how the code is supposed to be at this point, no problem, I just assumed attract music/sounds played randomly when in attract mode and it doesn't. What should it be?

4. Lock down bar. I truly do not like the latched lock down bars. Don't like them on the Sterns either. I know this is personal preference for some, but is there an option at all for a standard lock down, lever action bar? I assume not because it would have to be powder coated to match as well. Just figured I would ask - especially since the latch on the right side barely clears the playfield and is hard to latch.

This really is a gorgeous pin and a perfect theme for me - can't wait to see what code updates bring! Thanks for the help.

These are all I use on my new games...100% better than anything else used out there

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/

Honest question. How are these different than what comes in them? Are they thicker or something? Asking because they look exactly like what came on the machine - and still was extremely hard getting them not to touch. In the end, I had to extend the felt with other felt I had - down about 2-3 inches more so it didn’t rub.

#480
Game played great out of the box with minor adjustments. I do 'feel' the lockdown bar paint to be 'different' like it has a coating on it that isnt reacting well to skin oils. Nothing i can see as of yet but its still under 100 games. But its concerning.

Also i never got the cool sign on my sanitarium fences. Is that a mod?

Otherwise, AMAZING pin

If it was overlooked...Bring one to MGC for me Bug

Installed a new IPS display and controller off of amazon yesterday. Night and day. Printed 4 monitor hold down clips off off thingiverse to hold it in place.
Display
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089NZDCZH
Controller
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5DTGKC

His eyes are truly black now.

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Does anybody have a good plan on how they are going to deal with armor that is already going bad?

Kind of sucks that after 6 months my side armor and lock down bar shows wear like it does.

Has anybody reached out to Spooky yet? I know they haven't made a public statement or fix yet, but if I was a customer with this issue I'd definitely be asking how they are going to be addressing the issue for my game at least.

I’m planning on applying 2k auto clear before I even play my first game… unless BallyKISS1978 says the results are not good from doing it last week.

Which issue?

Plan on putting some rattle can clear on on It.

Well let's home she's pretty inside. Box looked good. 509 arrived 5 mins ago.

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Cant wait for October, going to open up my doors, let the crisp autumn breeze come in with all the leaves rustling on the ground, have a huge bowl of candy and play this game. Will probably gain 20 lbs and too fat to run away from some guy w/ a knife so I will just play this game!
Awesome!

When you finally get the game working?
spookyrimshot.gif

I kid Spooky, I kid.

I reached out to Spooky last week via email, sending pictures showing how bad my powder-coating wear has progressed. So far, I have not heard anything.

You could try to get some testers gold paint that people use for models to touch up the areas where it has rubbed off. Then buy some 2k max clear coat and spray the side armor and lock down bar.

https://www.michaels.com/testors-metallic-enamel-paint/10060872.html?r=g&cm_mmc=PLASearch-_-google-_-MICH_Shopping_US_N_Craft+%26+Hobbies_N_Smart_BOPIS_N-_-&Kenshoo_ida=&kpid=go_cmp-9972406265_adg-99939223639_ad-433378147590_pla-1354477352600_dev-m_ext-_prd-10060872&gclid=CjwKCAjwjZmTBhB4EiwAynRmD9GB5Am3gVTXlvDuVJN76OaW3c6pt9htlcxseXzWSm00S9wULYeHYhoCbnYQAvD_BwE

The hammertone powder coat wearing off

Seems like we should get new armor or a refund to get it re-powder coated at this price point.

They took care of the ramp issues, this should be no different I would think.

Obviously I prefer replacement because going out getting powder coated is a pain in the ass but something should be done.

Yeah Spooky ought to get their powder coat guy to stand behind their work and they ought to run off a bunch at no cost. That is…if they want the continued business from Spooky.

I myself would prefer some sort of credit / partial refund from Spooky so that I can get all my metal pieces recoated locally. It's obvious the powder-coating they are using now is crap and I would rather not have a set of replacement pieces with the same crap.

A credit would allow me to go with a different coating; I'm thinking a nice metallic or metal-flake orange.

I am losing my deposit and running away from purchasing my CE. Too many issues.

I get it would be nice to have some resolution but man I just can't see that as something that will be offered. Right? Not being negative and that problem sucks but we'll see!

I am just losing my deposit and running fast.

If you're just going to walk away give it to me. I'll take it.

Not buying it. Means I am not paying for the rest. Not getting my deposit back. Running away.

Just for the record, my machine has no issues, just that one exit area that took a second to fix. No more than any other NIB machine I have in my collection.

I get it. Let me take over your slot. I'll pay the balance. Got a friend who wants one.

Me either and I got mine last October. Just the powder coat issues and lower LED light strip is out. Been playing 100 percent out of the box for me.

Yeah respectfully..... don't do this. These are going for around full price or just under. I get it with Ultraman based on what they are selling for but not Halloween. No reason to lose 2 grand.

I get the impression he just wanted to come in here and post that he is running to bash the machine.

If he’s legit I hope he hands over his spot to you.

I'll try to help with a couple of your questions;
1. Your lights are working correctly.
2. Your topper seems to be working correctly. Have you started any of the multi-balls? Its not coded to run constantly for a long period.
3. I don't have this issue, but I know some do and Spooky is aware of the issue.
4. I don't think this is coded yet.
5. No option unless you do it yourself which would mean ordering another lock bar, receiver, then having the new lock bar powder coated.

Hope this helps. Go enjoy your game!