They are the score reel reset relays.

Check all the zero switches on every reel. There are two per reel.

If you manually advance the reel you will see a nylon fork thing drop down at 9 and then rise up at zero.

Make sure both zero switches close at zero and open at one.

You will rue the 16 score reels when it comes time to disassemble and clean them all!

Also in the manual there are tables that list relays by location (playfield, backbox or bottom) and coil type which can be handy for identifying unlabelled relays.

The score reels have a zero position. When they are all at zero, those relays stop chattering and the game continues to reset. One or more are not reading zero. Check the contacts on all score reels when they are at zero and find the ones that are out of adjustment. On WMS of that era, I believe it is the top set of point's on each.

And check for cracked solder joints on the score reel switches. This was a problem on just about every Williams EM I owned over the years.

Be sure the screws on the score reel switch stacks are tight. Always tighten the screw closest to the contact points first, then the one closest to the wires. Do this before checking the adjustment of the switches.

This also applies to the relays but score reel switch stack screws loosen much more often.

Look for the word edit in your first post and click it.

Pinside edit.JPG

In the zero position, all three switches on the score reel should be open. Assuming the reels are all zeroed out, pull each one out and look for a closed switch.

Where did you get that quote from?

Anyway I'm guessing we are talking about the Topic heading, I can fix. Do you want me too?

Cool Fotoboy, now both the REs are clicking, right? are ALL the score reels at zero and staying there?

Lets work on one at a time, make our lives easier

Since the reels are stopping at zero, its not likely the zero SW on the reels.

Have a read though this thread, at least the first bit. It’s the same problem, different machine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-space-mission-reset-issues#post-1983840

Yes SW = Switch
RE = Relay
SCR Motor = Score Motor.

Which machine do you want to work on first?

And wire Colours

Main Colour \ Trace Colour

I guess he found the edit button changed his mind and edited the 2nd post quote not the first one thats where that came from.
The first one is now fixed.

_{Post edited by Pin-it: edited for content}

Yes, the motor winding got hot. Does the motor run correctly and is the noise acceptable? As long as the game isn't ovefused and you can handle the buzz, leave well enough alone. Otherwise replace the motor or rewind that coil.

Does the Scr Motor buzz continuously, or only while the motor is turning?

That coil is the coin lock out coil. It needs to be energised for the machine to accept coins. It is controlled by the scr motor, first cam nearest the motor. It is not needed for home games unless you plan to use the coin slots.

Interesting, the Scr Motor can be started by a lot of REs, then it keeps running by its own hold SW.

Thinking that you may have a dirt SW on a RE. start a game, then systematically score points. for the scr motor to operate for points, we need to score multiple points like 500 or 5000, this is when the Scr Motor is required. what you are looking for, is a situation that the scr Motor does not operate, just buzzes.

When you score point like 1 10 100 points, the scre motor is not required, but to sore say 50 points we need to cycle the scr motor to fire the 10 points RE 5 time. You said the scr motor works for the reset cycle but only buzzes other times, we are trying to find when it is bussing and what happened to start it.

If that is the Chime Coil, then the reason it would get hot is if the 100's or 1000's RE was stuck on.
Locate the to above RE's and see that they are not mechanically stuck, then then on the machine and see is one energises straight away. You may want to disconnect that burnt coil first.

If one of the above coils are stuck on when powered up, turn off the machine, you don't want to burn more coils.
Then look at all the related scores on the PF (play field) to that stuck coil, your looking for a stuck SW.
Do you have a DMM and can you use it?

DMM, correct - Sorry about the short hand, but your getting it.
You can disconnect the coil lock coil if you like. If you have the coin units in, the coins will go to the coin return if the coin lock coil is off. Please don't cut the wire to disconnect, de solder one wire from the lug of the coil and tape it up. One day someone may like it working again.

Have you found the 100's and the 1000's REs yet? (Relays)
if so are they on?
If the 100s RE is stuck on look for a stuck PF SW that score 100 points. {Play field Switch)