(Topic ID: 314324)

Haggis Fathom Owners Club. Dive In

By punkin

1 year ago


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  • 1,143 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Gotfrogs
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#19 1 year ago

In for a Mermaid. No number yet. Stunning game!

8 months later
#134 1 year ago

Anyone have issues with weak manual ball launch?
Auto-launch works just fine but with a “full pull” manually, the ball will only go about 2/3rds up lane
Curious if anyone could respond with shooter rod spring color?

#135 1 year ago

I figured it out. My autolaunch was not making contact with both sides of the ball (see gap at red arrow)
This was pushing the ball away from the rubber tip of the plunger, creating too much distance to properly launch the ball when plunging by hand
I pulled the auto plunger and gently bent both tabs (see white arrows) toward the right
Once bent to the right it allowed the ball to drop back about 3/16” closer to the plunger
While I had the playfield up I switched out the silver plunger spring for a blue one
All works perfect now - hope this helps someone else too

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#136 1 year ago

Question for owners.
On the right side outlane, the most outward lane almost never makes it over the gap (see red circled area)
My left side jumps the gap nearly 100% of the time - see yellow circled area
It appears that the small post and rubber are getting into the ball path as the ball makes it around that stainless ball guide (see red circled area). What happens is the ball hits that small rubber, bounces up and into the sling rubber, then backwards and down into the gap.
The only “fix” would be to remove and gently bend a more concave radius into the lower part of the guide
What does your guide look like on the right side?
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#140 1 year ago
Quoted from dscapo:

It appears that the right guide is fastened to the playfield close to that lip that needs to be bent. Seems it would be difficult to hand bend the correct arc. The left side seems on point. Wondering why this seems to be a baked in problem with misalignment.

Sounds like more than one of us have this issue. Here is what I did.
- use a Dremel to oval out the holes on the small plastic lane guide (do the green protector and the printed plastic)
- this allows you to drop those plastics and open up the lane (my ball was hitting the leading edge/corner as it tried to enter)
- next remove the two plastics that sit on the rail and cover the “C” shaped stainless steel lane guide
- pull the “C” shaped stainless lane guide (use 7mm socket and an Allen key to remove 2 bolts and nuts in 2 mounting tabs that go thru PF
- remove the 2 Phillips screws that are inserted sideways into the rails using a stubby screwdriver or right angle screwdriver
- pull the guide with the PF flat as there are 2 thin, white nylon washers under each mounting tab

Now, time to bend the guide:
- put the end of the lane guide (up to the first mounting tab) into a bench vise (protect it with tape of thin rubber) and gently bend
- note you’re bending only a 1” or so section of the guide, starting with the first bend as close to the mounting tab as you can get
- start NEAR the mounting tab and work your way toward the end, it bends easier than you think - you should bend 4 times in that total inch
- each “bend” should be just enough for you to feel the metal “give”, then stop, a little is a lot
- if you don’t start at the mounting tab, you’ll remove the bend you just made when you put it back into the vise!

See below for my before and after images
I’m now 99% making it and it changes the game significantly for the better
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#142 1 year ago
Quoted from dscapo:

It looks like the lane guides have slightly different lengths between the right and left side. I’m glad your fix worked for you. I wonder if opening the hole at the mounting tab would allow some more adjustment as well.
Hopefully some owners report the issue to Haggis so it can be corrected. Seems like it would be caught if they play tested these a bit before sending out.

We think alike. I did open the hole a bit in that mounting tab but did not have to use its contribution to the range of adjustment because my bend was adequate - plays like a champ now!

#143 1 year ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Seems like it would be caught if they play tested these a bit before sending out.

Agree on that and I'm sure someone at Haggis is reviewing these forums. You can't always catch every issue during play testing but a 100% drain ratio on that outer (green) return lane should be caught at some point. Also note that there are at least 2 of us here that have posted with the same issue. Mine was not a random event. Most buyers of a 1981 remake are pretty technically savvy so - hey, we work through it. First timers might struggle

As you can see from my earlier post, my first issue was the manual plunge would not get the ball into play. It would only travel about 2/3 of the way up no matter how hard you plunged. If the game was play tested at all, it might have been done using the auto-launch and simply missed

#144 1 year ago

My review is up if interested
Just LOVING this game ...

https://thepinballloft.com/

Fathomagical

#145 1 year ago

Anyone know where to get a documented and detailed rule set for the 2.0 code?

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

You listed Fathom as Haggi's first game, you left out this.
[quoted image]

Great catch and I’ll make that correction. It’s their first Bally remake, but second game

#148 1 year ago

Corrected - thx Punkin

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#149 1 year ago
Quoted from MT45:

Anyone know where to get a documented and detailed rule set for the 2.0 code?

Answering the rules question the best way I can for now.
I captured all the text from the apron screens so it's easier to study away from the game
This is the ruleset for Fathom Revisited

MERMAID MULTIBALL
• 1,2,3 in sequence starts Mermaid Multiball – 2 ball
• 1,2,3 down during Mermaid Multiball = Jackpot
• Jackpot value increases with each set of banks down
• Super Jackpot awarded after 5 sets of banks down
• Underwater Breathing is awarded by getting the Super Jackpot which enables the player to have enough air to get to the mermaid treasure

LAGOON MULTIBALL
• Hitting the blue drop targets on the left target bank lights lock at top saucer for Lagoon 3 ball multiball
• All blue inline targets down score Super Jackpot in saucer – holds ball for 10 seconds
• Both balls in saucer lights Super Jackpot at Extra Ball target
• A Navigation Device is awarded by getting the Super Jackpot which is needed to navigate the caves and find the mermaid treasure

MERMAIDEN BATTLES
• There are 4 mermaidens to battle
• Uses a “fighting game” mechanic with health bars – time battle
• If battle is won, then Cave Escape begins immediately
• Successful Cave Escape gives lit perks to the lane returns during Mermaid Queen Battle

CAVE ESCAPES
• After defeating a Mermaiden, others start attacking and you have to return to the boat
• Here’s how to return to the boat:
o JETSKI – use rollovers to get speed to return to the boat
o WINCH – hit drop targets to rise up to the boat
o SCUBAJET – spinner primes the Scubajet, then any scoop to get to the boat
o DOLPHINS – pop bumper hit make Dolphins swim to the boat

MERMAID QUEEN
• 4 Mermaidens to battle along with the Queen
• Mermaiden shots are: Lagoon targets, Cave targets, left bank Drop targets and Pops
• The Spinner charges a Sonar Bomb to use as an extra hit to the Queen
• Final shot is to the Lagoon to destroy the Queen
• After Mermaid Queen is defeated, take victory laps
• Other perks: 1,2,3 targets in order gives a Mystery Award
• The Mermaids Trident grants access to the Treasure Cave

FATHOM JACKPOT
• Need to progress various playfield shots to light the Fathom Jackpot at the right Stand Up target
• Must be completed on 1 ball to light (can be set to progressive in menu)
• Shots: left bank Drop targets, Spinner and Lagoon Drop targets, ABC lanes, Pop hits x 50 and final shot to the Extra Ball stand up target

MERMAID TREASURE LIGHT
• Lit at Lagoon saucer
• When successfully collected:
o Trident from Mermaid Queen
o Navigation Device from Lagoon mutliball
o Underwater Breathing from Mermaid multiball
o Treasure Key from playfield Super Jackpot
• If you fail to complete the wizard mode (drain ball) you lose the Treasure Key and will need to get the playfield Super Jackpot again

MERMAID TREASURE GAMEPLAY
• Work sequentially through playfield elements to get to the Treasure Room
• Navigation Device needs to be powered up (spinner and pop hits) to then light the way to a room that is locked
• A shot is lit to progress through each locked room: ABC, 1,2,3, Cave drops, Lagoon drops, Left bank and final shot to the Cave

#150 1 year ago

Pop bumper LED issue and fix:

Just noticed I had a pop bumper with misbehaving LED lights. Rebooted the machine and still same issue. Underside LEDs all staying red in color during attract mode (and during game play) instead of matching the upper as they should.

Checked under the playfield (supply point) by pressing soldered connections while game was powered on and it had no effect

I switch back to the topside, removed the pop cap and gently pressured the solder points on top - no effect
I then switched to the underside of the LED circuit board and gentle pressure would return the LED color to the correct state - aha!

So I loosened the circuit board (2 screws) and gently angled it up high enough to both see and access the underside soldered connection.

I touched each of the 3 connectors and the 3rd one (the ground on right side in image) was the issue

I grabbed my flashlight for a closer look and it became clear that the copper jumper wire was broken. It took a few tries because those wires are very thin and it’s easy to overheat the pads on these types of boards. After a few careful attempts, I got the broken wire soldered back (see yellow arrow for view of broken wire). I tested for continuity (was good), screwed it back together and it’s back working normally again

Hope this helps someone else should it happen to your game
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#152 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

I had the same issue. But all three of my wires broke off.
I think between the pop bumper vibrations, and or air balls under the pops. I decided to mount the wires on the top side of the pop pcb for all three pops (for easier soldering and better wire protection).
I also added some hot glue to the led pcb in a few areas for added support (the boards are a little flimsy being that it’s two pcb’s in one with little support).
I think the pop pcb’s are bulletproof now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Fantastic long term solution! I’m assuming you soldered “in place”?
I ask because it looks like the only way to remove these is to unsolder the power supply point that is under the playfield - no biggie I guess but it means re-threading those wires back through the pops

Also, what gauge wire did you use on the top of the LED circuit board?

Thx

#154 1 year ago

Thought I’d share my successful fix to the left pop bumper ball trap
I was getting this ball trap just about every other game - see image of stuck ball before adding the rubber cone
I tried a few fixes that did not work long term until I landed on this one.
I’ve played a dozen or more games and purposefully shot directly at the ball trap - couldn’t get it stuck and the cone stayed in place
Cheap, easy and fast!
Buy the silicone rubber cones on Amazon $10
Cut about 30% or so of the largest size (20mm) cone off - careful, they do not cut easily
Clean any wax of playfield where you will stick the cone
Peel the adhesive off the cone bottom and stick down cone with flat (cut) side facing and TOUCHING the playfield post behind it
Touching is important because that cone will take direct hits and if it’s touching it will transfer that energy to the post rather than pulling the cone off the playfield by loosening the adhesive
Where I’ve placed it, it doesn’t interfere with the pop skirt or ring travel at all
It’s also mostly invisible from the players viewpoint

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KWVTJV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title


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#155 1 year ago

Frame came in and I already had the mat cut. Just need to find a blank spot on the wall!
I really like that Haggis did this for owners - customized by game number
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#162 1 year ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

Did you ask for #215 specifically or truly 215 out of 250 are completed?
Anybody know?

I just picked that game up from Zach at Flip n Out. Not sure the order or origin of the number. Wasn’t a request from me though

#165 1 year ago
Quoted from jkdblaze:

Were the Flip n Out games shipped over air or sea?
I wish I had known about the Flip n Out option on this. I didn't know they were a distributor for this game at the time, so I went direct through Haggis.
I'm paid up as of 10/05 and planning to ship sea (when I get notice that the game is ready) if it won't take a lot longer.

Air freight

1 week later
#188 1 year ago
Quoted from rodcom:

Having ball hand ups and gate stuck up on bottom left. Best way to bend/adjust?

My initial hangs on the one way ball gate were it hanging on the plastic on the bottom.
The plastics can be moved by loosening the screws and they will move a tiny bit
The rubber above won’t move so you have to see where the hang is

The gate on mine was just a tad short as well and would pull out of the upper receiving hole regularly
To fix that, I “widened” the span of the gate by stretching it (bending it flatter) end to end, essentially making it longer
That also helped my hang ups

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3 weeks later
#220 1 year ago
Quoted from surfnrg:

Anyone else have issues with the flippers not working? I changed out the leaf switches for gold plated ones... hope that fixes the issue. Maybe the California air is causing the tungston ones to not conduct?
Also what's with all the air balls? Feel like it's gonna break glass. Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
How about game crashes? Since the latest update it seems to be a little more funky. Using it for league play and had to do a few restarts to get a good 4 player game working.
Ok... as for the rules..did the original Fathom have lane changes and auto ball launch?

Sure did. Burnish with 4000 grit sandpaper, no need to be gentle, then sets gaps super tight.
Make sure the blade that supports back pressure is providing enough of it
Once I did this mine were just fine
Before I did this they would sometimes not fire, sometimes they were week
All good now

More details here
https://thepinballloft.com/

2 months later
#556 11 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Anyone experiencing game freezes? Between balls, after game bonus tally, if game left on for a period of time with ball in shooter lane?
I’ve yet to hear anyone mention it and I’ve had those problems (and others) from the beginning. Damien said he was able to reproduce some of the same issues at the factory and its code related. Find it odd no one has mentioned it.
Anytime out there with issues?

Yes. Just had this happen a few days ago

1 week later
#581 11 months ago

Dissapointing. Not the end of the world, but not what I expected. Game is still amazing and it’s in my top rotation for play

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