Got the email requesting final payment today!
Woohoo I’m on the home straight, 12 weeks to go, give or take.
Got the email requesting final payment today!
Woohoo I’m on the home straight, 12 weeks to go, give or take.
What has been the typical wait time from payment to game shipping? I’m just over 100 days since payment and really excited to see this fish.
Quoted from EasternBloc:What has been the typical wait time from payment to game shipping? I’m just over 100 days since payment and really excited to see this fish.
I was in the first batch and it was around 160 days. Not sure where it’s at now. Hopefully Haggis has really got production rolling by now.
Quoted from EasternBloc:What has been the typical wait time from payment to game shipping? I’m just over 100 days since payment and really excited to see this fish.
I was at 160 days as well when my damaged game arrived. I will be at 200 days when it's replacement is set to be here next week.
Honestly took alot of the wind out of my sails on this one.
Quoted from Brk_oth:The Haggis ones are like edging, they are hollow under the artwork, except for a couple bits of structural support.[quoted image]
People have been making them like that for many years. I'm pretty sure one of the first companies stopped making them because they broke so easily. Looks like there are still others making them though:
https://www.truecolorprotectors.com/
I suppose they are better than having a solid color that changes the color of the whole plastic, but I much prefer plain old clear protectors. Seems like I'm always in the minority in this thread...these protectors are butt ugly and will instantly come off my game to be replicated in clear and replaced.
Just installed new code.
All the scoring displays are working great right now!!
New sound added when totaling up bonus is bad ass!!!
This game is simply becoming spectacular!!
Quoted from John_I:Seems like I'm always in the minority in this thread...these protectors are butt ugly and will instantly come off my game to be replicated in clear and replaced.
They're neat looking, but imo don't belong on the game. Not because they're badly designed, just because they simply don't fit in with the art and vibe, in my opinion.
Quoted from kklank:Just installed new code.
All the scoring displays are working great right now!!
Were you getting the bug on multi-player games where adding players wasn't activating the score displays? If that's fixed that's great.
Quoted from Aurich:They're neat looking, but imo don't belong on the game. Not because they're badly designed, just because they simply don't fit in with the art and vibe, in my opinion.
Were you getting the bug on multi-player games where adding players wasn't activating the score displays? If that's fixed that's great.
Yes that’s the bug. Fixed. It’s fantastic.
I sent in a few reports on bugs.
I've had multiplayer games freeze after the end game sequence. It will stay stuck for a matter of time then come back alive and start a game by itself.
Also had a great game going with Mermaid Multiball. After draining if put another (unearned) ball onto the playfield. The bonus was frozen and wasn't scoring correctly. Drained the ball and the game was stuck in that mode until a hard reset.
I just updated to v.85 so not sure if that brought them on. Game was on v.84 when it shipped.
Quoted from apessino:BTW I have to give huge thanks to gprotein for all his help. He coordinated with Haggis to have both of our games air-shipped to LA together (his was built first), handled everything, then even picked mine up at DHL and delivered it to my house.
Nicest pinball friend ever...
A great friend indeed!!
Anyone else have issues with the flippers not working? I changed out the leaf switches for gold plated ones... hope that fixes the issue. Maybe the California air is causing the tungston ones to not conduct?
Also what's with all the air balls? Feel like it's gonna break glass. Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
How about game crashes? Since the latest update it seems to be a little more funky. Using it for league play and had to do a few restarts to get a good 4 player game working.
Ok... as for the rules..did the original Fathom have lane changes and auto ball launch?
Quoted from surfnrg:Anyone else have issues with the flippers not working? I changed out the leaf switches for gold plated ones... hope that fixes the issue. Maybe the California air is causing the tungston ones to not conduct?
Also what's with all the air balls? Feel like it's gonna break glass. Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
How about game crashes? Since the latest update it seems to be a little more funky. Using it for league play and had to do a few restarts to get a good 4 player game working.
Ok... as for the rules..did the original Fathom have lane changes and auto ball launch?
I’ve had quite a few air balls and had the ball stuck on top the left plastics right up against the apron.
Several issues during mermaid multiball that the game seemed to remain stuck in the mode after the final bonus count. Described a few posts above.
Original had lane change but no auto plunge.
Quoted from surfnrg:Anyone else have issues with the flippers not working? I changed out the leaf switches for gold plated ones... hope that fixes the issue. Maybe the California air is causing the tungston ones to not conduct?
Also what's with all the air balls? Feel like it's gonna break glass. Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
How about game crashes? Since the latest update it seems to be a little more funky. Using it for league play and had to do a few restarts to get a good 4 player game working.
Ok... as for the rules..did the original Fathom have lane changes and auto ball launch?
Lots of air balls and the 1 drop target needs a perfect direct hit to drop. 99% of my air balls are off this drop.
Quoted from surfnrg:Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
That is caused by the plastic protectors / neon edging being hollow. To stop the ball jams, cut some clear plastic to fill in the hollow parts then use clear tape or glue them inside. This will stop all the plastic bending and the ball wont be able to fly up there. For us it used to get stuck there every 10 or so games, which is really annoying when its a location, we have now had a couple thousand games played since the fix and not a single stuck ball. See attached image, these screenshots are from a document of fixes and bugs I sent Haggis a while back.
Quoted from surfnrg:Anyone else have issues with the flippers not working? I changed out the leaf switches for gold plated ones... hope that fixes the issue. Maybe the California air is causing the tungston ones to not conduct?
Also what's with all the air balls? Feel like it's gonna break glass. Anyone else get ball jams between the left side plastics and the glass?
How about game crashes? Since the latest update it seems to be a little more funky. Using it for league play and had to do a few restarts to get a good 4 player game working.
Ok... as for the rules..did the original Fathom have lane changes and auto ball launch?
Sure did. Burnish with 4000 grit sandpaper, no need to be gentle, then sets gaps super tight.
Make sure the blade that supports back pressure is providing enough of it
Once I did this mine were just fine
Before I did this they would sometimes not fire, sometimes they were week
All good now
More details here
https://thepinballloft.com/
Can another owner post some good pictures of their backglass? I have several small parts that look like chips in the artwork, light shines completely through, no paint on the backside on these areas, but thought at first this was intentional. Not sure now. Can others confirm if these exist on their backglass?
Thanks
I got rid of my original game many months ago but found a picture of my old Bally backglass and it appears to have the same type of chips/half-circle areas as well.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Can another owner post some good pictures of their backglass? I have several small parts that look like chips in the artwork, light shines completely through, no paint on the backside on these areas, but thought at first this was intentional. Not sure now. Can others confirm if these exist on their backglass?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Mine has a couple of those crescent shapes but they are mirrored and not transparent. Also included a picture of the back held up to the light as yours is. Mine is nowhere near as easy to see the front image as yours.
Quoted from Brk_oth:That is caused by the plastic protectors / neon edging being hollow. To stop the ball jams, cut some clear plastic to fill in the hollow parts then use clear tape or glue them inside. This will stop all the plastic bending and the ball wont be able to fly up there. For us it used to get stuck there every 10 or so games, which is really annoying when its a location, we have now had a couple thousand games played since the fix and not a single stuck ball. See attached image, these screenshots are from a document of fixes and bugs I sent Haggis a while back.
[quoted image]
Ours - without the plastic protectors would jam like this. Just exact enough room for a ball th get between glass and plastics. I had to adjust how high the plastics set on the posts to stop it from even getting up there.. I just did receive protectors and hoping those raise the plastics enough for the fix to still work..
Quoted from Boof-Ed:Mine has a couple of those crescent shapes but they are mirrored and not transparent. Also included a picture of the back held up to the light as yours is. Mine is nowhere near as easy to see the front image as yours. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, the two areas in the middle of mine look like gouges, completely see through. Your doesn't look the same. What's your third picture where it looks completely white?
I'm trying to make sure if I actually have an issue (and I've had a few) before I reach back out to Damien. It looks like my backglass ink chipped off in those areas and created a hole instead of a mirrored crescent.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Yes, the two areas in the middle of mine look like gouges, completely see through. Your doesn't look the same. What's your third picture where it looks completely white?
I'm trying to make sure if I actually have an issue (and I've had a few) before I reach back out to Damien. It looks like my backglass ink chipped off in those areas and created a hole instead of a mirrored crescent.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That’s the back of the glass. Has a white mask over it all. 3rd picture is with no light from the front side and forth is when lit from the front. Maybe yours is missing that and could be the reason you have the “gouges”
Quoted from Boof-Ed:That’s the back of the glass. Has a white mask over it all. 3rd picture is with no light from the front side and forth is when lit from the front. Maybe yours is missing that and could be the reason you have the “gouges”
Mine is definitely missing that! Thanks. Another thing to get with Damien about. This has been far from a trouble free experience so far.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Mine is definitely missing that! Thanks. Another thing to get with Damien about. This has been far from a trouble free experience so far.
What else have you been having issues with?
Quoted from oldskool1969:What else have you been having issues with?
My first game came damaged and I refused delivery. Second game came 6 weeks later and I've had a few issues. Trough board was damaged and could not play a game until a new board was shipped(now fixed). Flaking of inside coin door (replacement being sent). Some odd gameplay issues that seem to be connected to a new led board (replacement being sent). Now this backglass issue.
Nothing that can't be fixed, but unfortunate after the first game coming damaged that these other issues exist as they aren't related to shipping. All will be fixed I'm sure.
Outside of that. I absolutely love the game, the new code, the build (minus my issues) is phenomenal. Most beautiful pin I've ever seen...and it smells really good.
No one needs to worry from my experience. Damien has been great so far and I'm confident everything will turn out find in the end.
Help…
The top blue scoop is really struggling to eject. Its bad enough that it really effects gameplay. May take 10 attempts to eject the ball. If I up the coil strength to increase the eject force it just ricochets off the post and comes right back into the scoop. It will repeat this process 5 -10 times as well.
Any help with this issue?
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Help…
The top blue scoop is really struggling to eject. Its bad enough that it really effects gameplay. May take 10 attempts to eject the ball. If I up the coil strength to increase the eject force it just ricochets off the post and comes right back into the scoop. It will repeat this process 5 -10 times as well.
Any help with this issue?
Have a really good look at it and see where it's hitting something?
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Help…
The top blue scoop is really struggling to eject. Its bad enough that it really effects gameplay. May take 10 attempts to eject the ball. If I up the coil strength to increase the eject force it just ricochets off the post and comes right back into the scoop. It will repeat this process 5 -10 times as well.
Any help with this issue?
That ball hitting the post and ricocheting back into the saucer tells me the kicker is misaligned some how. That ball should kick straight out at least past the post you say its hitting.
Examine the entire mech to make sure its in its proper alignment and secured. If you find somethin loose, tighten it up snugly but never over-tighten. Then hand manipulate the action of the kicker and look for anything unusual as it goes back and forth. Something might be bent or binding.
Edited for brevity.
Quoted from oldskool1969:Or
Incorrect angle set up, what is recommended? 4.5 or 6.5?
No it’s set correct and level. Not sure what’s recommended but I’m at 6.5. Which worked perfectly until now. This just began happening over the last day or two. Operated perfectly (the scoop eject that is) for 50 plus games now showing this problem. Has gotten worse, eject growing weaker, as time went on. I’ll examine the kicker arm and mech tomorrow.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:No it’s set correct and level. Not sure what’s recommended but I’m at 6.5. Which worked perfectly until now. This just began happening over the last day or two. Operated perfectly (the scoop eject that is) for 50 plus games now showing this problem. Has gotten worse, eject growing weaker, as time went on. I’ll examine the kicker arm and mech tomorrow.
Once you figure out what's going on, it will probs be a screw backed out under the playfield, or you may have to bend the arm slightly if it's all secure.
Has anyone come up with a good looking topper for Fathom?
Do you think Haggis may offer one in the future?
Quoted from BobT:Has anyone come up with a good looking topper for Fathom?
Do you think Haggis may offer one in the future?
There are holes on the top of the cabinet. This leads me to believe that they have something planned. I certainly hope so, I wish they would just do a full fleshed version of the original instead of flat plastic. I love the original topper. If they could do that in 3d that'd be incredible.
Any idea how often the undercab lighting should be active? When I start a game it's on, then shuts off during game play. Not sure how often that should be running.
I've also had some issues with the flippers not working after you walk away form the game for a minute. Once the ball drains they come back alive. It's as if they fell asleep. Similar issue with end of game. The game will stay in end of game mode for a prolonged period of time, then reset itself and come back to life. If you hit the start button a few times to wake the game up it will bless you with that many players added to the game.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:There are holes on the top of the cabinet. This leads me to believe that they have something planned. I certainly hope so, I wish they would just do a full fleshed version of the original instead of flat plastic. I love the original topper. If they could do that in 3d that'd be incredible.
That's probably Haggis's redundancy planning. Celts has power taps available in the backbox spare. They are *not* there to run accessories as that would void your warranty, but they would be handy and appreciated if you were a wanton warranty voider.
I would suggest the holes in top are there for the same reason, Haggis is pinball people.
Looks like CPR has made the original one. But agreed with Paulbaptise. An updated one would be better.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/fathom/
Quoted from Mr68:Looks like CPR has made the original one. But agreed with Paulbaptise. An updated one would be better.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/fathom/[quoted image][quoted image]
I saw the CPR one after I posted. It actually looks pretty good, but think I'll go without for a bit, and hopefully Damian will get creative and give us an even better topper.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Undercab lighting anytime? Is yours on all the time or just occasionally?
Only on when playing revisited.
Quoted from Boof-Ed:Only on when playing revisited.
The entire game? If you play consecutive games back to back is it on the entire time? Mine is not.
Next question .. anyone else find the game is "floaty". I have quite the pitch on mine too. What pitch do you have it set to?
Quoted from surfnrg:Next question .. anyone else find the game is "floaty". I have quite the pitch on mine too. What pitch do you have it set to?
I don't know what my pitch is set at, but my game is fast and not floaty at all. In fact, I was surprised to read your question.
Quoted from Clytor:Yeah, ours is set about 6.5 degrees and not floaty.
Thanks..will set mine like that. much appreciated. love the game just trying to get it working as it should. bolted to the floor.
Quoted from beltking:How much was a mermaid including shipping? Like 10k?
With the exchange rate and if you paid for air shipping, it would have been a little over $10K.
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