(Topic ID: 287640)

HackJob Silverball Mania

By bdPinball

3 years ago


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#2 3 years ago

The ground return for the SDB 12v has an isolated dedicated wire back to the rectifier board instead of being tied to the main ground on the board. If I am looking at it right, this must have burned up at one or both ends so the "yellow" bodge wire in question is ground return from the SDB filter cap to the 12v bridge.

The orange and red to rectifier TP4 are 6.3vac GI bus wires. Wiring diagram page in the manual should help you figure out exactly where they should go.

Redo the rectifier board connectors and top right SDB connector. That should get you going with out the hack bodge wires. Consider doing the SDB ground mods as shown in repair guides as the 12v return does not need to be isolated and it takes some stress off two connector pins that are known to burn.

20a fuse clip is looking rough too. the PCB kind of looks like it may be scorched on the bottom clip like it is getting hot.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

Replaced the pins in the power board. I saw something that said the power "unit" was easy to remove, but dAmn! 6 bolts just for the shroud around the transformer, and another 5 maybe to get the rest of it out of there, and finally the 3 to take the Bridge/heat sink off of it mount.
When Inreplace the heat sinks, I am pretty sure o don't have any heat sink compound. Is that a necessity? Will the little bit that's left work?
I wasn't aware of a ground mod for the Bally's- but I've been bout of action for a few years. I know that a gottlieb pracuztically won't run without. Ground mod. But I suppose it makes some sense, I've seen Bally's blow out on a Burnt GI plug a few times.
I got about 5 pins into the 20 pin molex. Methodically piecing back together the wires he had pieces together with that brown ext cord wire. Christ speaker wire even!
Next maybe I'll do some d10 rims, and maybe some stylish white led displays. Possible one of Vid's polished hoops for the horseshoe.
Thanks for your help.

Probably want new heat sink compound. The feature lamp bridge is the only one that gets really hot. If you plan on led feature lamps you can worry less about the heat sink compound, but I would probably find some.

Yes rebuilding the rectifier / transformer is quite a chore. It's not really complicated or hard, but tedious and usually necessary.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

That's what I thought about the orange wires.
Knocker is in the cab.
---
Turn it On am there is an ominous humm from the cabinet. Off with the power.
Only J2 on the rectifier board- voltages are not perfect.
TPs are as follows:
1. 5.4 actual 3.21
2. 230 actual 157
3. 11.9 - 11.6
4. 7.3 - 7
5. 4.3 - 4.65
1 & 2 bother me. 3, 4, and 5 seem okay to me.
I suppose if CPU doesn't get its proper voltage, and won't boot, sound card could make a hum like that. Btw- they humm isn't the humm of a stuck solenoid. I don't hear a pop when I turn it on. I'm familiar with that.
Guess the rectifier board needs some help. If the voltages are dead, it's the Wheatstone? What component cause low voltage?

When there is 12v problems like the filter cap goes out of circuit the sound board can let out a nasty hum.

The feature lamp voltage is low but the rest look OK for an unloaded rectifier board.

2 is fine if the SDB is unplugged. It will only read 230v with the 160uF filter cap in circuit which holds the V up near the top of 230vdc.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

If you look at my pic of the manual page, it shows pin 13 as being 53. But I'm wondering if you might be right about a mistake. Why can't I find this wire anywhere in head?

rectifier J3 P9 = 43vdc for SDB flipper relay coil
rectifier J3 P12 = 43vdc for MPU zero cross
rectifier J3 P13 = 43vdc for coils in the head. Mainly the knocker in bally SS chime games, then not used starting in lost world (at least for the most part). This connection is still labeled in the wiring diagram but is not used in your Silverball Mania since there is no coils in the head.

Your voltages look safe to plug in the head boards assuming you got the connectors figured out. If the feature lamp being low v would just result in dim lamps. Maybe the bridge has a blown open diode or something, but you can worry about that later.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from bdPinball:

Okay- I had things working well- cleaned Playfield replaced nasty/miscolored rubbers, Adjusted some non-making switches.
I think I mentioned a stuck on knocker. Replaced q3 with a TIP102 (man it's nice to still have all These parts laying around so I don't have to wait for them to come In the mail! That was always the worst part about this hobby, and having only one game- nothing to play while waiting for parts)
Things were great for a day. NOW I notice the knocker isn't working again! Grounding the tab doesn't produce a knock.
Schematics show both Q3 (knocker) and Q4 (outhole kicker) share the same U1- a 3081- of which I don't have one. Anyway, since the outhole still works I'm going to bet that U1 is okay- maybe my TIP102 went bad? I see a resistor and a cap in circuit there- something makes me guess it's the TIP102- just because I've seen that component go out more times than I can count.
Ideas?
-BrianDPinball

There is an open circuit if grounding the tab of the transistor does not fire the coil. Check for +43v at the knocker coil. Check continuity of the driver board wire from the coil lug to the transistor tab.

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