These hacks and wiring look easy enough to fix.

That is under the apron. I think have to remove the apron to see if there is a wire broken to the coil. Coil may even be measuring open. Trough outhole switch even registers? Has voltage on both solder tabs of the outhole coil? That will tell you if the coil is good, if you do have 70v on both coil tabs.

Yes. I messed that post up.

Still can test the shooter lane kicker coil voltage on both coil lugs just as I was mentioning can test the outhole kicker. Voltage on one side of the coil and not the other, broken winding possibly near the solder lug.

I will have access to a friend's Gilligan's Island on Friday if a need arises for any pictures or details that are tough to figure out using the manual.

So sounds like the coil has a problem. What is the resistance measured across the coil? This is the same one as all 3 pop bumper coils. You can measure any of the 3 and should be about the same resistance on the trough coil.

Did you order this one too? Can you measure the resistance on it? It looks toasted. Can you measure to be sure has voltage on both sides of this coil? Pretty sure this is the release for the up/down ramp.

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I don't know what this is, but it sure isn't original to the game. Must tie in with the board on the left side of the cabinet. I would unplug that board. You would like to return the game to original design, correct?
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Be nice just to see what the resistance of the coil is compared to a working/new one. I'll check the one in the game on Friday.

I'll look for a relay tied to the up/down ramp, but I sure don't recall one. I can't remember about the island motor needing a relay either. I need to check the manual and the game.

I'll check this on the game on Friday as well.

Also, it is best to go into the switch edge test and test all the switches in the game and compare to the switch matrix to see what all is disconnected/registering. Switch level only tells us so much.

Testing all the switches in the switch edge test will help us all out.

There is an actual diode on the "Ramp Status" switch on the drawing. I hope I can get a good picture on Friday where the anode is connected to.

This is totally strange to take the switch matrix wires off the "Ramp Status" switch and wire them to a relay and then to the "Ramp Status" switch. So it seems when removing the mod from the left corner of the driver board, this removed power to the relay, which completed this crazy mod. So without the relay power, the "Ramp Status" switch will now never work.

Must have been a mod done by an EM repair person.

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I realized that after I posted that response, and edited it about 4 times since that first post. I agree there. Can you ignore what I first posted? haha

This is good news for the "relay hack" to be removed and the switch matrix wires being soldered back to the "ramps status" switch with a diode added back in. After this, just will have to see whether the switch registers or not. If is doesn't, likely there will be a break in the switch matrix chain.

Seems easy enough to wire up to the switch now based on Victor's tags on the "relay hack" and the info on his post #52.

I would definitely remove that board out of the lower cabinet along with the wires that connect it.

Probably should do all these things in all steps and retest the game before continuing. So if something else stops working, we can work backwards to find out the reason.

Yes, the driver board was replaced, but there isn't very much wrong with the original board. So far just a couple of known connector issues, which you can have on any project WPC games these days.

I see the OP replacing the headers and retesting the driver board in the future to see what else it needs

I would be keeping a spare board

Man. I would sell the Rottendog and keep the original board. Their quality has always been a crap shoot over the years.

Well, this game has wires soldered to the back of the relay board so even I need to turn this game back to factory.

Far right is brown. To the left are 2 gray with yellow stripes wires twisted together on the same pin.

I do not measure any VAC nor VDC on the 2 pins. If I use the cabinet ground braid for the black meter lead, I do get 15.2VDC to each of the 2 pins.

I do not have any clipped leads to be able to hold while I test the motor. So not possible for me to hold my pointed leads without shorting something out.
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So if I remove J104 on the driver board, the island motor stops turning.

So did you plug in J104 after swapping out the driver board?

If.that is connected then test at the relay board like I did.

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Which coil? I would expect a blown fuse or transistor short if a coil really is shorted. You can measure the resistance of the coil and compare to same one elsewhere in the game.

The enamel coating on the coil windings is quite tough. Takes a flame or a 900 degree iron temperature to melt this enamel off the coil windings.

F112 blown? 2nd from the top right on the power driver board.

Or have J106 unplugged?

So your island is turning now?

Broken solder joints and burnt connector pins are the most common failures.

I would pull that relay boards and resolder all the solder joints and retest it.

Website is dead, Jim. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business#post-5314902

This costs nothing other than some time and a bit of solder and you would know now.