If you've not worked on a WPC driver board before, that's probably NOT the one to start learning. Having said that, I would at least FIRST repair/ADD a connector where those pins are directly soldered to the board so you can remove it whenever you need. Make sure you use a Molex connector+pins and NOT "IDC" pins.

When the connector is replaced, power it back up to confirm your work. Even if you buy a new board, you will need to add that connector.

Once the driver boards is out of the game, take some clear pictures of the front and back "additions" so we can see it all better. (Looks like someone added a fuse to bypass one on the board, added a cap, and added a resistor to the 12VDC test point. Those later two things were probably added to address the famous "reset" issues that plague these boards...) The blue wire on the upper right, is a ground wire... I can't tell where it goes, possibly the added "gold" capacitor? (Also, the 12VDC voltage may have been altered with that large ceramic resistor added to the test point...)

There is bound to be more fun things hidden on the back of this board! If it's working and I owned it, I would address the things hanging off of it and use it but, I am very knowledgeable about these boards.

If you venture to Cincy at all, I am sure I can get the board straightened out... that is, if you can bring it to me. It may be a challenge just for you to get the proper connectors in place and get the board out of the game!

Wish you were closer. I enjoy working on things like this.

The board doesn't look too far gone, but whether or not it is worth repairing will likely depend on your ability to work on boards. There is likely $10 to $15 worth of parts on there that need to replaced, as well as some general cleanup and running some jumpers. If you have experience and can confidently handle through-hole component replacement, then I would repair the board. If you don't, then it is probably just best to source a replacement board, because the cost to repair that from a reputable person will likely approach or exceed the cost of a replacement board. Also, whatever you do, don't dispose of the old board. The next owner may have the skills to repair it, or you may be able to sell it for a small amount to somebody that is interested in repairing it.

The cap that was added is comically bad. It looks like it was added to be in parallel with the cap that is used to filter the supply that is used to generate the regulated 5V. Tacking a cap on with ~12 inches of wire increases parasitic inductance and somewhat nullifies the capacitance. Get rid of that and repair the rectifier + filter cap properly.

Regardless of what route you choose, you need to replace the connector on J115. It also looks like J120/J121 will need to have the connectors replaced as well.

Finally, the wires run to J115 are suspicious. They don't match the normal GI wires from the transformer (yellow and yellow/white for that era). You'll want to trace where those brown and blue wires go and properly fix the factory wiring.

No, the goal is to eliminate those. You DEFINATELY don’t need that extra cap and ceramic resistor on a new board. Get the board removable but still working and then replace it. You are going to need to elaborate with more pics if there are hidden wires holding the board into the game after you add the connectors that are missing.

I'm sure this board is repairable but way over your head (as you seem to be new at this). Much of the boardwork requires knowledge and good tools, going in unexperienced will only make it worse as you risk damage the board or the rest of the machine if done bad.

Make it easy for yourself and just replace it with a brand new board and play the game happily. Then sell the old board as a project board or for spare parts to recover some of the costs of the new.

I'm all for learning to do repairs yourself but there are multiple problems with this card and probably even more shenanigans on the backside that you haven't even discovered yet, so I'd say it will be too much problems to tackle at once when unexperienced.

Those last pics, where does that phone? Wire end up inside the game? I’m guessing it’s tied in to something else that is not required by the driver board but not certain.

Also, make sure you refer back to a picture so you know where the wires go for that connector you need to build.

I know that. I meant where do the wires that are still left in the game go?

Incorrect. Those wires are going to the switch... not the coil.

Remove it and throw it away. Those existing switch wires travel to the MPU. Besides, you can always address a switch matrix wire from under the playfield... No need to ever run a jumper wire, unless the last one in the chain is broken.

Because they were ignorant and did not know how to diagnose and repair problems the correct way. Instead, they added unnecessary crap that probably caused more harm than good.

Lol. I love a good hack job. I always just consult the schematics. If the hacks work, I leave them. If they are crap (which much of these look to be) I fix them. This board def looks fixable. Don't be intimidated. You can easily do it!

These hacks and wiring look easy enough to fix.

That is under the apron. I think have to remove the apron to see if there is a wire broken to the coil. Coil may even be measuring open. Trough outhole switch even registers? Has voltage on both solder tabs of the outhole coil? That will tell you if the coil is good, if you do have 70v on both coil tabs.

No, the outhole kicker you are referring to in your post MUST be working in this game if the balls are getting to the trough area solenoid.

If the solenoid shown (trough) is not working in test mode, you could first check for DC voltage at both lugs of the coil... BLK lead of meter on ground braid, red lead on each lug.

BUT, I just noticed you are missing the BRN-RED grounding wire on the coil!

See where it's cut in your pic? That's why it's not firing. That wire needs to go to... (looking it up) J127 - PIN 3 on your new driver board ---> (the associated driver board transistor is Q56 for future reference)

[see picture in manual]

If you can't find that wire in the bottom of the cabinet somewhere, just run a new one, and attach it to wherever it's cut up in the harness.
Screen Shot 2022-08-04 at 9.07.59 AM (resized).png

That board+relay in the side of your cabinet look like a retrofit "solid state flipper driver board upgrade solution" of some sort. It's likely running the flippers in your game. I would leave it for now. Converting it back to factory would be some work and might require a more experienced tech. Besides, the install looks fairly clean.

There is some wild stuff in there!

It looks like they removed the EOS switches and three lug flipper coils that have high/low power windings, and replaced it with a single winding coil. You'll need the proper flipper coils and EOS switches for this game to make it play properly and avoid burning up the coils that are currently in there.

The board mounted in the cabinet is not very clear. It looks like it has tapped into some of the coin door buttons (orange/violet and orange/grey), which would be the up and enter buttons. It also has a number of drive transistors on it. I'm thinking that this is for some kind of multi-currency coin door, but I can't understand why they have tapped into the coin door buttons. In any case, this board and all of the associated wiring should probably just be removed.

The relay on the playfield is also strange. It looks like it is connected to multiple parts of the switch matrix (white/brown, white/red, green/blue, and maybe one more). These would for the Island Entrance and Ramp Status switches. Given the hack that you showed where there was a wire run from the driver board to a switch on a coil, I'm guessing that this is somebody's crude attempt to trigger the Ramp Status switch when the Ramp Up Coil fires. The switch is designed to be constantly closed when the ramp is up, so the single pulse to the coil to latch the ramp is not going to achieve the desired effect. Again, this is another hack and should be removed and the ramp status switch should be properly fixed.

Based on the electrical tape that I see in the background of a few of your pictures, I suspect you are in for more surprises are you work your way through this machine. The bottom line, though, is that the games worked as intended when they rolled off the production line. Given that, any devices or wires that look out of place should almost certainly be removed. The manual will be your friend here, since all of the correct* wire colors will be in there.

*: Some manuals have errors. If you find a wire that is part of a loom that looks factory, but doesn't match the wire color in the manual, err on the side of it being an error in the manual.

Good eye! I missed the red and brown wires going from that board to both of the flipper coils. Definitely agree that this is being used for the flippers now! The orange/violet and orange/grey wires are indeed the flipper grounds that run to the flipper buttons, so you nailed this one!

I would still personally remove all of this and put in the proper coils and EOS switches, but I guess the OP can decide what is best for his skill level.

Yes. I messed that post up.

Still can test the shooter lane kicker coil voltage on both coil lugs just as I was mentioning can test the outhole kicker. Voltage on one side of the coil and not the other, broken winding possibly near the solder lug.

You won’t have a bad solenoid on a brand new board. It didn’t work before either so the problem is likely elsewhere.

If you have DC voltage at both coils lugs, You should then set you meter to resistance and check across the coil lugs on the coil and see what ohms resistance it’s reading. Problem is not on the new board. Third, confirm that the brown/red wire is in fact making it to J127-pin 3 on the board. One of these 3 things is the only possible cause of this coil not firing.

You need to use pinball test modes to confirm if the switch is registering. Always use the TESTING software in the game to answer all functionality questions. It's faster than asking them on the forum. Bring the test results to the forum and we can suggest where to go from there.

It's all fairly simple: Switch closure tells MPU "I am closed" and the MPU tells the driver board to ground/fire or "something to happen". This is true for all switches,lamps,coils in every single electric machine ever made. While there ARE functions that are directly driven by the MPU and those are harder to troubleshoot, luckily, your symptoms don't indicate those problems.

Use switch test to check that switch. If it's good, go to solenoid test. If the COIL does not fire in solenoid test, confirm the coil has voltage and THEN that the grounding wire (white one) is making it to the harness+driver board connector.

You have a new board, you have switch test, you have coil test, you know how to test voltages and resistance at the coils right? That's the 4 diagnostic tools you need to solve this. You got this!

A rebuild kit will get you some of the components and many others that will certainly help flipper responsiveness, but not the flipper coils or the screws and washers for the EOS switches. If you want to go the full rebuild kit route, you will need:
- Qty 1: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-rebuild-kit-021988-to-081991.html
- Qty 2: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-fl-11630-flipper-coil.html
- Qty 4: https://www.pinballlife.com/5-x-58-switch-stack-screw.html
- Qty 4: https://www.pinballlife.com/5-split-lock-washer.html

If you feel that the spring, bushing, linkage, sleeve, and backstop are in good shape on both flippers and want to save some money, then the parts that you should need are:
- Qty 2: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html
- Qty 2: https://www.pinballlife.com/22uf-250v-axial-capacitor.html
- Qty 2: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-fl-11630-flipper-coil.html
- Qty 4: https://www.pinballlife.com/5-x-58-switch-stack-screw.html
- Qty 4: https://www.pinballlife.com/5-split-lock-washer.html

This seems incorrect, unless there is some kind of dedicated island test mode that you were using. I'm not familiar with Gilligan's Island, but have owned or worked on almost every other other WPC / WPC-95 machine. In the solenoid test (TEST -> T.4 Solenoid Test), the solenoid shown on the screen should fire regardless of the any switch state. If the ramp is already up and you select "Ramp Up Coil" in this test, the ramp will obviously not go up further, but you should at least hear the coil attempt to do something. If you don't, then you need to troubleshoot that. It could be a broken wire, broken winding on the coil (likely near the coil lugs), or the drive (Q34) / predrive transistor (Q33). Obviously, check to make sure that you have proper voltage at the solenoid (unregulated, so 50V to 70V DC).

I will have access to a friend's Gilligan's Island on Friday if a need arises for any pictures or details that are tough to figure out using the manual.

So sounds like the coil has a problem. What is the resistance measured across the coil? This is the same one as all 3 pop bumper coils. You can measure any of the 3 and should be about the same resistance on the trough coil.

Did you order this one too? Can you measure the resistance on it? It looks toasted. Can you measure to be sure has voltage on both sides of this coil? Pretty sure this is the release for the up/down ramp.

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I don't know what this is, but it sure isn't original to the game. Must tie in with the board on the left side of the cabinet. I would unplug that board. You would like to return the game to original design, correct?
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Be nice just to see what the resistance of the coil is compared to a working/new one. I'll check the one in the game on Friday.

I'll look for a relay tied to the up/down ramp, but I sure don't recall one. I can't remember about the island motor needing a relay either. I need to check the manual and the game.

I'll check this on the game on Friday as well.

Also, it is best to go into the switch edge test and test all the switches in the game and compare to the switch matrix to see what all is disconnected/registering. Switch level only tells us so much.

Testing all the switches in the switch edge test will help us all out.

Page 3-4 of the manual.

Location in the game shown on page 2-4 of the manual. You will need an image of that area of the PF to see if this relay is an attempt to replace the board. None of the images provided seem to show that area of the PF. At least from my quick scan of the images provided.

The manual isn't always correct. You should consider the manual mostly correct. If the information is consistent with what you see then it is correct. If the information is not consistent then look around for something that would be consistent. This is the unfortunate truth with Williams manuals.

The relay board is actually the board you think it is. There's nothing listed in the manual at that location but it is consistent with the relay board needed to operate the motor.

00_gi_motor_relay.jpg

What concerns me is the drive connector (the 2-pin header) appears to be MIA. It must be nearby because this is required to drive the motor (via energizing the relay). The drive wire should be a 2-pin connector with one of the wires being a BRN-BLK wire. You will need to find this connector.

All switches in the switch matrix must have an associated diode. On the row side with the banded end to the switch lug. There is no diode on the switch that you see so you are correct. The switch is 62 known as "Ramp Status".

01_gi_switch_matrix_chart.jpg

Actually ... the "relay hack" seems to have subsumed this. I don't know much about what's going on in the "relay hack" but you can figure things out if the wire colors are correct and consistent.

02_gi_relay_hack.jpg

The problem is that the area that is non-standard contains generic wire colors and I have no clue what it's supposed to do. You will need to trace those wires to the originating wires and either post an image or specify the colors.

On a more generic note (and definitely not directed at the OP) ... I am often fascinated by people asking for help but never posting images of what they have. If you (not the OP but the general reader you) post images things can be worked out. No image = not good odds for others to see what's going on.