Gilligan's Island
Bally, 1991So if I remove J104 on the driver board, the island motor stops turning.
So did you plug in J104 after swapping out the driver board?
If.that is connected then test at the relay board like I did.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:If I use the cabinet ground braid for the black meter lead, I do get 15.2VDC to each of the 2 pins.
Think I may have solved my island issue..
Seems like some solder had dropped down onto one of the coils that had paper missing and was shorting it out when it activated.. got a new one one order and gonna put everything back together and see!
Which coil? I would expect a blown fuse or transistor short if a coil really is shorted. You can measure the resistance of the coil and compare to same one elsewhere in the game.
The enamel coating on the coil windings is quite tough. Takes a flame or a 900 degree iron temperature to melt this enamel off the coil windings.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Which coil? I would expect a blown fuse or transistor short if a coil really is shorted. You can measure the resistance of the coil and compare to same one elsewhere in the game.
The enamel coating on the coil windings is quite tough. Takes a flame or a 900 degree iron temperature to melt this enamel off the coil windings.
The island lock coil.. and yes it was blowing a fuse and shorted the transistor.
This thing is making me crazy.. got the new coil in for the shorted island lock and replaced the bad transistor on the board associated with it. Now some new problems.. in solenoid test:
left lock, island lock , left/right sling will not fire and all other coil click but not fully fire.. I thought I soldered the wires on the coil correctly but I need a double check. Cause I accidentally deleted the pic of it.
Other than that, I can’t figure out why all the other coils are barely firing..
Edit* Switched out board with one from my Black rose and everything seems to fire correctly… what should I check/replace on the other board?
2AEC47E5-C050-4FF2-9BD0-623F54AF4BE4 (resized).jpegE9AB987D-30B1-4A4E-9768-867712FCFF26 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PinballManiac40:F112 blown? 2nd from the top right on the power driver board.
Dude.. sometime it’s the simple things ..SMH
Fuse was blown but didn’t notice cause it’s a solid white fuse.. plus I guess it never occurred to me cause they were firing just no at full power.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:So your island is turning now
No, not yet.. still trying to figure it out.. think it’s a bad relay board .. got parts on order to build a new one
Quoted from Scullymcgee:No, not yet.. still trying to figure it out.. think it’s a bad relay board .. got parts on order to build a new one
Broken solder joints and burnt connector pins are the most common failures.
I would pull that relay boards and resolder all the solder joints and retest it.
Quoted from pindel:New Relay available for 25.00
[quoted image]
Website is dead, Jim. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business#post-5314902
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Broken solder joints and burnt connector pins are the most common failures.
I would pull that relay boards and resolder all the solder joints and retest it.
This costs nothing other than some time and a bit of solder and you would know now.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:This costs nothing other than some time and a bit of solder and you would know now.
Gonna try this first, if not, I’ve got a backup to make a new one
It’s ALIVE!
Got the island working again with the help from Todd@ Big Daddy. He had a board and that fixed it.. looks like the island had a piece of sheet metal that was made as a hack at the end of the ramp that was causing the island to stick at a certain point in the rotation.. that may have burned out the original motor and caused the relay to go bad.
So as of right now, all the crazy hacks have been successfully replaced and is back to factory and playable.. the only (sorta) hack fix now is the incorrect coils on the flippers and lack of EOS switches (still not sure what that weird flipper board does) hopefully when I rebuild the flippers with the correct coils and switches it doesn’t effect that board and cause more problems.
THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE THAT HAVE CHIMED IN AND HELPED WITH THIS!
Next up: flippers
Then: complete shop and cosmetic fixes.!
D2F83492-9E73-4A13-AA09-6B0C107AF442 (resized).jpeg145BFF17-D368-4602-BBAB-E7FDE37C7149 (resized).jpeg4E3CA890-6AA1-4FC1-B3C5-797AE288F640 (resized).jpegQuoted from snyper2099:Right flipper is mounted backwards...
and what is that blue block spacer in there?
The coils are the 2 lug type that go with the flipper board mounted on the side of the cabinet. New three lug coils, with EOS added and wired will sort out the flippers. Wiring from the added flipper board connector will have to be sorted and go back to the flippers.
Quoted from minnesota13:The coils are the 2 lug type that go with the flipper board mounted on the side of the cabinet. New three lug coils, with EOS added and wired will sort out the flippers. Wiring from the added flipper board connector will have to be sorted and go back to the flippers.
With Adding the proper 3 lug coils and EOS switches.. will that board need to be removed altogether and/or will it cause problems?
Making progress, got everything working and back to factory( except for the flippers) playfield stripped, cleaned, parts cleaned, ramps flame polished, new rubbers, plastics and led.
Gonna play it awhile before messing with the flipper tear down… but its alive and goin.. thanks for all the help!
After flipper rebuild then ill work on cabinet stuff, decals color dmd etc.
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Louisville, KY