(Topic ID: 87717)

Hack of the day - "Faking" plastics

By wayout440

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

That's right, I'm a cheap bA$tar6! The reality is there are other things that I would rather spend my money on. This one large plastic has been broken on my Pinbot since I aquired it. Nobody else notices, but I have known it - just the tip broken off that is circled in red in the first pic. 80% of this giant plastic part is hidden under the ramps in Pinbot as well.

Every time I see this plastic, it goes for close to 50 bucks or more, or is bundled as a full set at a price I don't want to pay. I don't need a full set of plastics. Thank God for the color printer. I printed a copy of the part adjusted to scale, and adhered the top side to a piece of blister pack packaging plastic from a large item with super glue (spray adhesive might look even better -it's just what I had on hand). Trimmed to fit and installed. It looks ok and most won't even notice the fake.

Pinbot is a keeper for me, and someday I may replace the plastic as it should be, but for now it looks decent. I would never try to pass this off unknown to a buyer if I ever was to sell. I just wanted to share it as a quick, easy, and inexpensive solution to that hard-to-find or expensive plastic missing or broken on your game.

Original plastic that sold for $43 plus $15 shipping on Ebay:
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Plastic substitute - 0$:
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#2 10 years ago

always broken nice job!

#3 10 years ago

Looks totally fine. I wouldn't hesitate to make a similar repair.

#4 10 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

super glue (spray adhesive might look even better -it's just what I had on hand

Definitely would end up looking better as superglue or other liquid glues will show threw the sticker possibly.

#5 10 years ago

Do you have the original plastic and it's pieces?

I had an STNG plastic which was broken... I repaired it with a quick patch:

I pondered on how to fix this. I really lacked the ability to clamp and glue the pieces together... I didn't want to risk having my acrylic glue either not work; or have the starfield paint "run" with the glue. humm...
Idea I have a Laser cutter... the darn thing probably broke in the first place due to lack of strength.

I decided I would bolt a reinforcement piece of acrylic behind the break... and use #2-56 button top screws @ 3/16" to "fix" the break. I could have just cut another piece with the laser cutter; but I wanted to try to keep as many original parts as possible... just incase it becomes a collectors item one day... or whatever.

Out came QCAD:
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I rounded all the corners to reduce stress points to help keep the piece together under the stress of pinball balls traveling at Warp 2.

After Vaporization (laser cutting):
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Not as good as new; but hey... it's hidden behind the borg ship anyway... so should be just fine.
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Underside:
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I used clear to prevent any modification of lighting since there were light bulbs under this big piece of plastic.

Installed:
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That should eliminate that unoffical ball pocket quite well. This was done back in 1998 and is still in use today. 4 TPFs, three Charity events.

#6 10 years ago

my t-2 needed sling shot plastics and the plastics around the skull.i made them out of brushed alum. looks great to me. I think we need a "cheap bastards club". joe

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Do you have the original plastic and it's pieces?

No, it was missing. Good repair on the STNG. Thanks for contributing

#8 10 years ago

The other plastic repair on my Pinbot - the vortex. I used Steve Channel's method http://www.stevechannel.com/pinbot.htm. I consider the metal top stronger than the original plastic was, and it gets blasted by a full launch of the shooter rod.

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#9 10 years ago

That dam blue playfield plastic is usually broken. The company that made the complete playfield sets, if they just re-run this blue part only. Most PinBot owners would be very happy. It is also not easily removed.

#10 10 years ago

Looks like I wasn't the only one eyeing that piece on Ebay recently as well. Like everyone else I don't want to pay $50 for 1 plastic, and don't need a full set either. I might actually attempt this on my notoriously broken blue piece as well.

#11 10 years ago

I did this on my old TFTC the lower plastic behind the drop targets.

Worked just fine unless staring it you would never know.

Good work. I heart Pinbot!!

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

my t-2 needed sling shot plastics and the plastics around the skull.i made them out of brushed alum. looks great to me. I think we need a "cheap bastards club". joe

I think anything metal on a T2 playfield fits the theme perfectly and would look great.

#13 10 years ago

I did a t2 when I could not find plastics....made steel slings and powdercoated them red. Look great until I found originals to install.

#14 10 years ago

On my Haunted House there is the commonly broken "Secret Passage" plastic.

I took a scan of my broken one, then took a jpg of the interwebs, and Photoshop'd in the missing parts, then printed it on address label stock, stuck the result on a 'secret passage' plastic protector you can get from most parts places, the placed the broken one over it.

Now the new label parts fill the voids until someone remakes that silly plastic.

#15 10 years ago

I found a pic. joe

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#16 10 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

On my Haunted House there is the commonly broken "Secret Passage" plastic.
I took a scan of my broken one, then took a jpg of the interwebs, and Photoshop'd in the missing parts, then printed it on address label stock, stuck the result on a 'secret passage' plastic protector you can get from most parts places, the placed the broken one over it.
Now the new label parts fill the voids until someone remakes that silly plastic.

This is a fine example of the great lengths we nutty pinballers will go to make something as close to right as our resources will allow.

#17 10 years ago

not to repair, but had done similarly printing graphics for what was bare clear plastic (zizzle). elmers rubber cement was nice for putting the paper down, gives a chance to float-position it. 2" clear packaging tape went over the paper to give it the glossy factory look, protects the paper and made them cleanable waxable too.

I hadda laugh at the "cheap ba$tar6s club" thing, some plastics do get broken too easily. if they're replaced with some lexan or polycarbonate type plastic that isnt going to break, covered in printed paper graphics protected with tape, it could be an improvement over what was stock plastics. "cheap" or "not original" doesnt seem so important if the new home brewed parts look right and aint gonna get broken. OR light spray adhesive can let you apply the printed graphic to the underside of the new plastic might look better depending how the original part was made (most I'd seen are silkscreened on the back-bottom then a thin coat of white over the color stuff). a little experimenting with different types and thicknesses of paper might get really close to correct light through if lit from underneath.
if I were buying a machine that looked right and had better than original now unbreakable plastics in place, if I werent told about it I'd likely never know, and if I were told, "oh cool thanks" because they wont get broken.
good job wayout

#18 10 years ago
Quoted from zizzlemeplease:

not to repair, but had done similarly printing graphics for what was bare clear plastic (zizzle). elmers rubber cement was nice for putting the paper down, gives a chance to float-position it. 2" clear packaging tape went over the paper to give it the glossy factory look, protects the paper and made them cleanable waxable too.
I hadda laugh at the "cheap ba$tar6s club" thing, some plastics do get broken too easily. if they're replaced with some lexan or polycarbonate type plastic that isnt going to break, covered in printed paper graphics protected with tape, it could be an improvement over what was stock plastics. "cheap" or "not original" doesnt seem so important if the new home brewed parts look right and aint gonna get broken. OR light spray adhesive can let you apply the printed graphic to the underside of the new plastic might look better depending how the original part was made (most I'd seen are silkscreened on the back-bottom then a thin coat of white over the color stuff). a little experimenting with different types and thicknesses of paper might get really close to correct light through if lit from underneath.
if I were buying a machine that looked right and had better than original now unbreakable plastics in place, if I werent told about it I'd likely never know, and if I were told, "oh cool thanks" because they wont get broken.
good job wayout

You speak the truth! and you are right, the thread should be retitled "Cheap bas$tar6s club - guests welcome!"

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Definitely would end up looking better as superglue or other liquid glues will show threw the sticker possibly.

We can call this repair version 1.0 - eventually I may do a version 2.0 upgrade.

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

On my Haunted House there is the commonly broken "Secret Passage" plastic.
I took a scan of my broken one, then took a jpg of the interwebs, and Photoshop'd in the missing parts, then printed it on address label stock, stuck the result on a 'secret passage' plastic protector you can get from most parts places, the placed the broken one over it.
Now the new label parts fill the voids until someone remakes that silly plastic.

Pbresource makes the plastic, the problem is he only sells it with an entire set of Haunted House Plastics. Steve Young owns the rights to Gottlieb, so no one can or will make a one off part for this. Steve does a great job, I just wish he would manufacture just the Secret Passage part and sell it. He could make so much money by doing this.

#21 10 years ago

thanks again wayout, and really, wth ya gonna do when you just CANT get a like original plastic for something?
I dont think its about being cheap at all, it takes some time to open it up, measure cut and drill, scale the print to be the right size, attach it to the new plastic, then install and close it back up.. might be a couple hours of worktime and end up with new that wont break? that sure isnt anything cheap! same for a replacement plastic if you CAN get your hands on it, how long before it gets snapped just like the last one (grrr!)? to me it seems the better choice to just go ahead and make the part, non fragile and only once.

my own (toy!) zizzle PotC, the zizzlemodblogspot guy was generous to post his little slingshot and island graphics, only had to size them up 107% to fit, laid them down on the topside and tape lammed over looks so much nicer than bare clear with green blank playfield stock.. even better now with white LED's underneath lighting em up. unless you'd seen other zizzles, you really wouldnt know it wasnt originally made that way.

#22 10 years ago
Quoted from zizzlemeplease:

thanks again wayout, and really, wth ya gonna do when you just CANT get a like original plastic for something?

You're right about all that. The originals of some plastics and other game specific pieces are getting more scarce (and more expensive) all the time. If they can be found at all. Sometimes a company steps forth and makes them, but not always, and it is going to be up to we pinheads working in our basement shops and on our kitchen tables to fill the gaps. Luckily, our increasing technology, affordable in the home, and the ability to share our findings on the interwebs is making saving games a reality. Something as simple as sharing a scan or a photo can make all the difference to a fellow hobbyist.

PLASTIC!

#23 10 years ago

The problem with single plastics is that color matching the fade of every individual machines is difficult if not impossible. It's also just as expensive to screen one plastic as it is to do a full set.

#24 10 years ago

Nice job wayout, and count me in for cheap bA$tar6s club!

#25 10 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It's also just as expensive to screen one plastic as it is to do a full set.

Not if you screen a full sheet of just the commonly needed part...

#27 10 years ago

I'm no fan of repair, wish there was a bigger aftermarket for alternate ones.

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