Check the torx bolts on either side of the license plate at the top. After I installed Pinwoofer, if I tighten down the left one, it presses on the translite glass and it wont come out anymore, so I leave it a little loose. Do you have a pinwoofer? Regardless, Maybe yours is tightened down and preventing the glass from moving.

Art blades installed, wet method, no removing playfield here... used generous amounts of soapy water on them. Allows to drop/slide into place (like protectors would be done) and still be able to adjust and move around and then to work the bubbles out too and when they dry they look great. I couldnt imagine doing them dry.

Dry is easy with 2 people, wife and I have done 10 at least. On gnr, you can pull playfield almost straight out the back and rest it on a table, only a small part of the game will be in the cabinet still.

Good to know but still sounds like double the people, double the work and possibly double the trouble. All I had to do was remove the glass and soap it up.
I only pulled the playfield out in a couple service positions AFTER they were installed, just to to get around where access was blocked by the game to work out some bubbles (which just move across the blades to the edge very easily while things are slippery and wet) .

Haha. You argue everything. Get your wife involved, it makes new purchases easier

Isn't that what Pinside is for?

My mistake I assumed you actually thought the dry install was easier... I now see the wisdom that was not apparent until you enlightened me. Gomer will have to assess his situation. lol.

Mine was doing the same thing, though it seems to have stopped recently.

Got it! Loosened the left torx bolt, it was still stuck a bit, but was able to start on the right side that did have some wiggle to it and move left. Maybe the paint was still a little wet or something when the backglass went in.

I'll probably do the wet method on the blades! I don't have the best eye for when things are level, so being able to shift it around for a little bit will be pretty important. I guess I have a weekend project. Thanks for the tips. Cheers!

Nothing with this game specifically., but just historically on pins with backglass locks like that, the locks can partially block the channel even when "open", the lock cam screw can come loose and not allow it to spin when the lock cylinder does, the edge molding on the glass can slide partially off and block the channel, the head can be warped slightly and not allow the glass to feed into the channel, and about 12 other things. Usually with some wiggling, some careful "convincing", some looking in past the glass with a flashlight, maybe some careful application of makeshift tools (putty knife, etc) you can get the glass out despite the obstacles and then, with everything open, address the problem so it doesn't happen again.

Mine did not do this until after I installed the Pinwoofer tweeters, but that left torx screw may have been loose to begin with and after I snugged it down it pressed on the backglass/translite so it wouldnt move. The right screw/bolt does not do this. I was tempted to cut off part of the end of the screw so it goes in tight but doesnt touch the back glass, but now I just remember to loosen it if I want to take it out.

Maybe the left one is intentional go snug to the glass on purpose to stop rattle? Doesnt seem like that makes sense, but I dont know really. Glad you resolved it the same way I did by backing out the left torx bolt just next to the LE License Plate.

Hey guys - love seeing the helpful nature of these posts - what a great community!

We've had two reports of not being able to remove the backglass without first removing the speaker panel, straight out of the box.

A few measurements we've received suggest that there is a significant variance in backglass height.

Personally, my backglass is removable when the backbox is locked, albeit with a slight force applied to the lift channel.

My opinion is that the design tolerance and glass variance gives rise to these corner cases.

Good times!

So I have a G&R CE with about 2600 plays. Lately I have been having an issue which was mentioned on page 2 of this thread. When I press the start button the game starts scoring and "Ignite the Flames" multi-ball starts before I even plunge the first ball. So I did a switch test and switch 18 was lit up red and marked closed. I looked at the two thin metal blades behind the sling rubber and they were touching. I tweaked them open with a flat blade screwdriver and the switch test says it is operating normally, but the issue with the automatic multi-ball hasn't been resolved. I emailed JJP but have not heard back.

Any ideas what to try next?

Also I have noticed that every single time I have a ball in the left side of the guitar lock it drains straight down the middle. Every damn time..... My game is level side to side and I have tried to "tilt" the game a little when the ball gets dropped but it has not been successful. It's making one of my favorite pins my most frustrating lately.

Any help is appreciated, Thanks.

On the sdtm guitar lock drop, just bend the outer guides outward a bit

I tried that last night, flexing the left side metal as far as it would go to the left and then also to the right. It didn't make a difference at all.

I did a search on owners thread for "guitar sdtm" and find these which may be of interest...

Discussion on the issue

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/112#post-6115244

Fix suggestion

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/369#post-6652829

Fix suggestion
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/89#post-6048296

Switch 17 (the standup target right below the bottom bumper) and switch 18 (the switch behind the rubber ring to the left of that target) will both do what you are describing if they are gapped too closely. Go into switch test and bang the playfield with the heel of your hand, or use the + button to have the shaker vibrate the playfield for you, and see if either or both of those switches close intermittently as you do that. I'm betting that's the problem.

Just got the game brand new. Upper playfield VUK cycles over and over randomly. I can see it in the test mode. Calibrated sensors no luck the cool just cycles over and over doesn’t matter if I’m playing a game or not.

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I took the whole VUK assembly apart. Nothing triggering the opto. Nothing in there that shouldn’t be. Still just cycling endlessly.

Follow the opto wires back to the opto control board mounted under the playfield - make sure the connector is clicked in tightly into the green socket. One side of the opto will have black and red wires, the other side will have green and white. Look for pinched or broken wires on both sides. Put the game into matrixed switch test and plug that opto pair plug into a different socket on the control board and see if the game recognizes the opto pair in that spot. Then try one of the other plugs in the green socket on the opto control board and see if the game recognizes a different opto pair plugged into that spot.

Awesome I’ll do this tomorrow. I was so frazzled with this I didn’t even think about obvious next steps.

So after a few weeks, I’m once again getting the LED/PFC Board Communication failure. Last time, I “fixed” the issue by unplugging all the Ethernet cables on every LED board and on the mother board in the back box, but obviously this is only a temporary fix. Has anyone figured out a more permanent solution to this issue or know how to best troubleshoot things so I can at least start to narrow it down?!

I’m guessing there has to be a faulty cable somewhere but which one it is I have no idea!

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I was just reading about this one through searching because I had this pop up for 1 second during a game and go away not to be seen again.
Looks like its overwhelmingly pointing to the little black micro USB cable in the board under the playfield.

Yeah now that you mention that I also remember Ken from JJP saying that seems to be the main culprit, but at the time he was referring to it being loose and perhaps just needing to be plugged back in. I’m thinking now it may actually need to be replaced. I’ll send him an email and see if a new cable may be covered under warranty.

I’ve checked every damn connection in this game everything is tight and I’m still getting the VUK cycling. JJP had me pull the back glass everything is tight and where it should be. It’s not scoring just endlessly cycling the only thing that stops it is opening the coin door.

The next step I recall reading about is plugging it in to a different USB port... I think the post was suggesting to use the USB near the coin door. I'll see if I can find that post.

Well I’m about 10 hours into this hell of a problem. Also noticed my upper playfield came broken at the back corner. JJP has been about as helpful as a hole in the head. I’m thinking the main board is just bad. Traced the wires all the way up to the monitor and nothing is wrong. I’m tempted to just tell JJP to come get it what absurdly terribly QC.

Put the game in matrix switch test and press enter to bring up the grid full screen. Find the plug for that opto pair on the opto control board - assuming you are talking about switch 78 upper playfield VUK - it should be in the green socket in position 6. Unplug it from there and move the plug over to the blue socket next to it (which should be empty if you have an LE) - plug the opto pair into that socket instead. Does the game react? Does the box for switch 79 in row 7 change color? If the game recognizes that opto pair in the blue socket, then chances are that the opto pair itself is okay. If it does not, then the opto pair itself may very well be the problem. You can try it in a couple of other spots to make sure.
Next would be to take a known good opto pair from somewhere else on that board and plug it into the green box at position 6? Does the game react accordingly with a known good opto pair plugged in there?

It sucks to buy a replacement part for a NIB this early, but maybe purchase and try a new opto to test (or replace with a known working opto pair like Pinballomatic suggested). I had a Stern NIB with an opto pair that went bad after a few plays and triggered constantly. After checking wires, reseating connectors, cleaning, realigning, etc., the only thing that worked was straight up replacing the opto pair.

What are you describing? Can you take a picture? I just had this pop up today out of the blue as well. This is my first time playing since new code.

IMG_0674 (resized).jpg

It looks like Vespula is taking some time away from Pinside. Maybe someone else with this error can jump in and help.

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So in addition to the LED issues, I’ve also been dealing with the auto launch issue like so many others. This one has been ongoing for several months now. I’ve gotten both the trough board and skill shot boards replaced, I’ve cleaned the inserts and optos, confirmed the times auto launch is off, but still the problem persists. Ken suggested going into the switch matrix test to see if anything triggered when running the shaker, flipping the flippers, etc. but nothing came up. He essentially said something has to be triggering it, and it got me wondering if the vibration from my external sub could be causing it? Obviously it’s an easy theory to test but I’m not making the trip down to the basement to test it out!

I was getting this error ALL THE TIME, and since the lights would freeze up the game was essentially unplayable until I fixed the issue. Ultimately, what I found was going on with my game was that a group of cables in the back of the cabinet were bunching up when the playfield was all the way down and this was putting pressure on the LED board and that black mini-USB cable that Vespula was describing. I moved the cables out of the way and zip tied them down and the problem hasn't come back since.

Other people have described fixing the problem by unplugging/plugging back in the cables to the LED board and the motherboard in the back box, but that never worked for me. It took me almost a month to finally find the solution. I replaced cables, reseated every damn ethernet connection in the game, and was about to lose hope when I finally stumbled across the solution.

One quick way to test if this might be what's going on with your game would be to pull out the playfield while the game is in the communication testing screen so you can easily see if the connections are failing when you push the playfield back into place. If they are then you know it's likely something in there butting up against the LED board.

Fingers crossed your issue is something minor like mine!

Do you have an image of the LED board and the min-USB cable that you and Vespula are talking about? Really appreciate the help.

I hope Vespula comes back , he was good value .
I got into more than my fair share of arguments in my first two years but then I learnt , not to take things personally and a lot of people just like to stir .

Amen brother. I’ve learned some valuable life lessons the hard way. I know it can be hard, but you got to let thing go and control what only you can control.

I too hope Vespula comes back. When I was brand new to Pinside, I reached out to him for help. He had a part that wasn’t available in the states and went above and beyond to make sure my pin was fixed.

I do not have a photo but it's very easy to find. If you lift the playfield all the way up, the LED board is on the very back left hand side of the game. It's the one with like 10 ethernet cables plugged into it around the board, pretty hard to miss! The mini-usb is located on the bottom right hand side of the control board.

Again, others have mentioned that the mini-usb had a loose connection on their games and they were able to correct the issue by simply making sure there was enough slack on that chord, but that was not the case with my machine.

Thanks so much!

Can someone please open the coin door and take a picture of the wires connecting to your starter button (LE model)

I lifted my play field last night and when I put it back into place, all the wires from the starter button became disconnected.

Or can you tell me the correct order they go onto each terminal ?

E.g. double blue wires on the side terminal, double black top, middle or bottom etc

Thanks !

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Thank you ! I will carefully compare mine to yours and give it a shot .

Ok, so I hooked it up as illustrated. My assumption is there is one terminal that is not used ? The one nearest the coin door ?

Game starts, can select multiple players but the light no longer flashes. Assuming it must have shorted or something ? Probably easy to replace. Is this just a simple light bulb?

Now onto another problem that occurred at the same time I assume - the shaker motor no longer works.

I traced the yellow wire and everything appears to be connected.

BTW - I have an open adapter (plug) of mixed purple and blue , red and black wires- square in shape. Is this a spare for something else ? Anyone else have one as well?
Shaker motor wire appears to be yellow.

My assumption was that all of these wires were just not tucked away properly when I put the playfield down and they all got yanked out. Now I just need to figure out the shaker motor and replace starter button light bulb.

(Edit). Upon further examination it appears the yellow shaker motor wires go to a connector that then makes the wires the purple/ blue looking. Are these the same wires that go to the start button ? If so, I am sure I fried something in the starter button and hopefully replacing that will solve the light / lamp and shaker motor issue ?

Thanks again
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UPDATE: F17 fuse fixed starter button LmAo light and shaker motor !

Standard edition having reset issues !!
Game resets only during certain songs??
Please help..
No shaker motor installed.
All connectors have been checked/reseated.

The game is taking almost 5 minutes to boot up!
Also Still rebooting during certain games also

as you wish
thanks for the kind words

I still see this error rarely but from time to time, the effect is all my sensors seem to be dead. I can reboot the game and it goes away.
If it is truly the small micro usb black cable under the playfield as others have alleged, mine is not stressed, nor is it loose that I can tell. I wonder if USB driver is crashing, I still dont know. I am going to get some electrical tape and tape that micro usb cable in place to help mitigate any possible vibration from shaker (and my "gentle" nudging -ha) that may be contributing to this, but right now, I just dont know.
When this message showed last time, I happened to be at the game end, and the game ended and sensor calibration message / process started in the lower left, and instead of calibrating normally it said something to the effect of cannot calibrate no sensors detected.... so there is a clue... Reboot the pin fixed it and I kept on playing a bunch of games with no more message.

Received my LE two weeks ago. I'm enjoying it, but have a couple ball stuck locations.

Is there a parts diagram for the game? Be nice to see screw sizes, post sizes, and mounting locations.

I made some adjustments (left ramp when ball drops onto drumsticks, ball caught in indent just behind gate) and top left, slight recess where ball enters metal guitar strings. I added some elevation under the screws nearest the VUK.

(it needs played loud, and I added a subwoofer)

The manual can be found at https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GNR_Manual_May2021.pdf

It's not quite as robust and complete as the other manuals because the person who was working on it no longer works for JJP.

Thats a great starter, Thanks

That seemed to be my issue as well. Finally got around to opening it up and checking.

Thanks

That seemed to my issue as well. I finally got around to opening it up and checking.

Thanks
Ryan

Did you ever get a fix for this? Mine just started doing it (after a couple months less than a year of play.

Thank you!

Post #28 contains the fix for your Post#347 question about the issue described in Post #26
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guns-n-roses-troubleshooting-#post-6023316

. Thank you!

Hello!

Does GnR still have issues with crashing on song selection? I know early on it did....

I have a standard edition on the latest firmware, and maybe once a day when a song is starting it will crash - pause for 30 seconds and then reboot.