Easy to throw a cap on em to protect

I received my GnR LE today and it won't boot.

Voltage is coming to power but power is not working, display is black. Cpu is not booting, no leds, nothing.

Transistor board have all leds working.

Backbox fan don't work. So all powers from atx power is gone...

What might be problem? CPU? Is there reset button? Didn't find it yet

Maybe this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/180#post-6259464

Yes, that was solution. I must do that 3 times, after that it was ok and starts normally.

Hoping someone might be able to help. The pop bumper sound is going off endlessly but it's not just the sound, points are being scored as well. This is happening without a ball touching them as soon as a game is started. However, it does stop during a song. Any ideas?

Tests - Switches - Matrixed - look at the screen to see which one needs to be adjusted less sensitive.

Probably the one behind the rubber ring. Up the playfield to the left of the spinning disc area.

LTG : )

I had the same issue pop up after a couple of hundred plays and this switch was the culprit. Opened it up a bit and now all is good.

Newb alert.
I got one... When launching a ball, it very often comes back under that metal flap with the blue rubber dot and then of course has to auto launch again.. repeats this multiple times sometimes until the flap eventually catches it and ball goes into play...

I tried to bend that flap a little thinking the angle needed to be more perpendicular to the play field bit it doesn't want to bend and I'm not sure this is the right way to fix it either..

Thx

I fixed this by removing the flap (2 nuts on top) and adding 2 washers to each lug. This made the flap lower and the ball no longer passes through it.

Thanks man! It's amazing how much more clarity these types of things have when you actually have the pinball machine and aren't just reading about things trying to store up the knowledge for when it finally arrives. I remember several posts describing this now that you mentioned it but I just didn't have the context or understanding like I do now!

Now I'm clicking along and I got most of them and have used the search feature to pull back up instructions on things, but this one eluded me!

Thanks again!

Thanks. How do I adjust the switch?

Bend the leaf at the base so they don't touch unless the sling is hit. Ideally use a leaf switch adjustment tool, as using needlenose will twist it.

I believe Butch touches on leaf adjustment in this flipper video but the idea is the same for leaf switches.

My newest (minor, but annoying!) issue... about every 3 or 4 flips, the left flipper is very weak and "spongy". It is rarely this way 2 flips in a row, and it does not seem to be related to the coil getting hot or anything (I do have a Tibetan Breeze kit ordered!), since it sometimes happens on the very first game played after powering on. All the wires look to be well connected. The coil is not loose in its mount. The gaps on the flipper buttons switches look ok. Has to be something simple, right? It's only the lower left flipper that seems to have this malady, and the frequency does seem to be increasing. Any suggestions welcome!

I’d start by removing the coil stop and coil and then replace. Maybe something is out of wack. Clean the coil sleeve wile you have it apart

FYI to all . Check Allen bolts for flipper coil stops.

I had one laying in the cabinet and haven’t really put a lot of games on it at all.

How many plays?

This game beats them up pretty hard.
I did a full flipper rebuild on mine at 3100 plays. I've changed the coil sleeves every 1000 or so.

The first thing I'd do, which is quick and simple, is replace (or at least clean) the coil sleeves. Work the flipper manually and make sure it feels free and loose, not getting friction.

388 total plays.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Concensus seems to be to check the coil sleeves, so I will do that later today when I have to take them off to install the Tibetan Breeze fans. Looks like they use the same length sleeves as my Stern games do, which is a big plus because I have plenty of those onhand.

Check the plunger to see if it has a sharp edge and if the top of the coil stop is cupped.

LTG : )

I just picked up a GNR LE yesterday. Its my first JJ pin so a couple of noob questions.

1) Are you supposed to leave the felt cabinet protectors on when installing the legs or are those thrown out?

2) I found a hex fitting lodged inside the VIP Entrance. It obviously didn't belong there but I couldn't find anywhere on the table or cabinet where it was missing from. Any ideas?

Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!

Michael

image0 (resized).jpeg

image1 (resized).jpeg

1 ) Yes

2) Looks like inside cabinet secures a head bolt the metal plate pivots on.

LTG : )

If you have Liors skull mod then you have to remove the felt or it won't sit over the leg. Ask me how I know.

Also the legs were more stable without the felt imo and there are metal brackets on the cabinet so getting them right against the legs made it more stable.

I know this it contrary to LTG post but that's experience... No felt.

Thanks LTG! I checked and both head bolds are securely attached with a hex. Those hexes do look the same as the one I found inside the VIP Entrance. Maybe an extra one fell in at time of assembly.

Are the felt leg protectors really required or optional? I've never used anything like that on my Stern pins and have not had issues with cabinet damage.

Thanks,

Michael

Thanks Vespula. I have the skull mod on its way from LSoG so I will probably leave the felt protectors off. I don't want to run into any fitment issues.

Michael

One additional question…should these two posts be bare metal or have clear rubber on them?

Michael

38AD1C57-5318-4D71-B9BB-65E735139735 (resized).jpeg

B6D0EDB5-1B1C-4DF2-8BC4-170DBF6741FC (resized).jpeg

.

Bare metal. Came that way from the factory.

LTG : )

Good to know.
Don’t have that mod yet. Thanks.

One last question….for now is the plastic shield in the back right by the drumsticks supposed to be angled this way? It seems to me that it gets in the way of the ball as it travels along the drumsticks.

Thank you,

Michael

444201CB-F489-4EFA-AC5D-12BCA367B8E4 (resized).jpeg

Check that wood block in the right back corner of the cabinet at the top with a flashlight.. It's a really tight fit when your putting the playfield back in.. and if you don't jiggle it right so that the clear plastic pops along the side , I could see how it could flex that plastic at a bad angle if not careful.

I tried it, it worked! Can't believe it. Thanks for the advice.

Zaphx knows his stuck balls and lube...lol

Glad I could help! Rock on!

I'm sure this topic has been covered many times, but when I do a search for spotlight I'm not getting anywhere. So... one of my spot lights is dead. I tested it in the settings, dead. The light works, but no movement. Other one is fine. Any advice? thanks!

Vespula post 196

Go to GNR Owners thread.
Expand topic index at the top of the page. TECH section might help as it has the following Key Posts:

Post #8798 TECH: LIGHTING. Links to servos that will work to replace broken stage lighting servos. Posted by zaphX (5 months ago)

Post #13853 TECH: Lighting. Spotlight service bulletin fix from JJP. Posted by daveyvandy (58 days ago)

Post #13891 TECH: LIGHTING. Spotlight servo adjustment procedure Posted by zaphX (58 days ago)

Post #9238 TECH: LIGHTING. Swapping out defective spotlight assemblies Posted by fooflighter (5 months ago)

Post #1017 TECH: LIGHTING. Troubleshooting spot light motion issues Posted by wdbthree (1 year ago)

LTG : )

Bulb good ? Try turning it 180 degrees.

LTG : )

Question for everyone on ball getting stuck on the upper left metal guitar rail. I was not able to grab a picture of it so just pulled stock photo off internet but it is getting stuck right here but the far left side. Tried pushing down the rail a little but don’t want to crack or break something. Game is leveled properly so I could raise back up more but you have to give it a push with your finger to go so not sure that would help? Appreciate any input!!

633EEF74-6348-4E03-9934-893DAB7172AE (resized).jpeg

Take the ramp off, easy to do ,and put on a flat surface. My middle 2 fingers that go thru the upper field were high, preventing ramp from sitting down flush. I bent them back down, 300 plays ago, not 1 hangup.

Thank you! I will give it a try tomorrow and adjust. Appreciate the help on here as always!

Curious, are others able to hit the left ramp shot from a left flipper hold without much issue?

It was an impossible shot for me with the stock flipper settings, so I adjusted the flipper direction upwards a bit to make it more accommodating, but that of course made hitting the right shots a pain in the ass. I’ve since readjusted the flipper back down and turned up the flipper power instead, but it still has an extremely tough time making it up that left ramp. Not sure what else to do at this point.

Wondering if this may be just a byproduct of the flipper coil over heating? The power setting off my left hold is set pretty high (like around 26 or 28) so I’m wondering if this could be causing more of an issue than it’s helping.

OK one more question for everyone. The ball was auto launching on start so I went into matrix switch test. It looks like shooter lane 3 switch was going off when not in play. Was happening on and off at times. Today when looking at the map of switches I cannot figure out what has to be adjusted? It looks
Like it would be the part by the speaker cluster? Any idea of what to look for or adjust? Thanks mike

B7ABBFB2-1A64-4A88-B80A-96D0C29986D6 (resized).jpeg

Imagine the issue would be with the opto sensor or perhaps debris inside the insert itself. I know people have had success with using a q-tip dipped in alcohol to clean the insert areas and optos if necessary to solve this issue. Recalibrate the sensors in the tests menu too.

Has anyone found a solution for the LED/PFC board communication error?!

I’ve checked the mini usb cable and all the usb connections on the motherboard and nothing is fixing it. If I unplug the wiring harness at the LED board the lights turn back on and cycle through the startup sequence but then shut off again. Obviously game is unplayable when the lights won’t work, and so far I’m not getting any real advice from JJP other than unplug/plug back in all the cables around the game.

So is it the main (insert, GI) lighting that doesn't work? Or the hotrails? Or both. If it's both, I'd concentrate on the USB cable - swap in another cable, try a different port on the CPU side, etc. But if just messing around with the USB cable makes the board reset and go through its startup self test like that, then I'd also be looking closely at the power connector for bad crimps, pin not inserted fully into connector, etc.

Yes, all of the lights are effected. They’ll just freeze during gameplay and the error will pop up. If I reseat the wiring harness to the LED board all the lights come back on and go through their startup sequence, but then shut off completely.

That said, I was able to seemingly correct the issue by reseating every Ethernet and USB cable I could find. I highly doubt it's "fixed" and it's annoying as shit that I still have no way of knowing what causes it to happen, but at least it's running again...for now!

I do have the Pinstadium CEs on my game and wonder if that may be causing an issue, but the game has worked fine for months with these on there, so not sure why it’d be acting up now. This issue has been happening intermittently for about 2 months now, and I fully expect it to return. Really hope there’s a permanent fix out there!

Sorry to be so annoyingly persistent, but specifics matter. When you say "reseat the wiring harness" do you mean disconnect and then reconnect? And does this include the power connector (the two pin connector with red and black wires)? Basically powering it down and then powering it up by disconnecting and reconnecting the power connector will have exactly the effect you describe - all of the lamps will cycle through a reset sequence, but then go out again.

If they were all frozen before you did this, and stay all out after you did this, that speaks to an issue with the USB cable. If you don't see any obvious problems with the way the USB cable is connected at the controller board, or at the PC, then I would try replacing the cable as a first step.

IF however, by "reseat the wiring harness" you just mean wiggling the cables going to the board, and it does this reset, then the problem may be with the power connector itself in the harness.

I simply mean disconnecting the wiring harness and then reconnecting. The harness has red, black and yellow wires if I’m remembering correctly and is located at the bottom left side of the LED board, the mini USB cable has plenty of slack and shouldn’t be pulling loose but as others have suggested perhaps the vibration of the game is causing an issue there. It’s really hard to say. The mini usb pulls out very easily but seems to stay in place. Also, when the lights are frozen, if I pull it/plug it back in the problem persists. The only thing that unfreezes the lights is playing with the wiring harness, but again the lights won’t stay on afterwards.

I suppose you can never rule out a flaky circuit board but this still sounds like a USB cable problem. Have you checked the other end of the cable, at the PC box in the head? It can be hard to figure out which one it is, but if one isn't plugged in all the way, that would be your culprit. Or just unplug every one and plug them back in to make sure. And that doesn't fix it, next step would be replacing that cable entirely with a new one.

Is there a trick to opening the backbox on the LE? I unlocked it, usually with backglass you pull up and it sort of goes into the cabinet a bit then you can tip the bottom out. With this machine, I am getting no movement on the right side of the glass at all, and a little bit of up/down movement on the right.

Related side question, anybody try to install the art blades yet? By the looks of it the whole playfield needs to come out. I found a couple of wire jumpers to detatch, but there are even more somewhere in that big bundle of cabling running through the middle, which is why I was trying to get into the backbox