Welcome to come over and use my GnR for a photo shoot. And Doot you're welcome to come over that night too.

just butchered a broken 7" android tablet (broken touchscreen) and got it play videos in loop, it boots automatically into video on powerup

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I am working on doing a run of ten toppers, maybe two different versions as I am not a fan of the quality and price of the original topper. These will be hand cut out of wood, like the trophies I make for tournaments in the North East. Anyone that knows or has seen these trophies, knows the quality of my work.

Price will be around $125-150,
If you're interested in being on the list, pm me your info. An example is below of a Creature I did for Pintastic New England, it is multi-layered.

Thanks, James

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Show me some more GNR Mods - currently restoring mine and I've taken some ideas from this thread. I'm interested to see what else is out there.

The coolest GnR mod is coming!!!!

Color DMD?

Color dmd?

Color DMD would be nice.

Metal ramps would be sweet.

The best mod I have on mine (ok not really a mod but had to post it)gnrpinball.jpg
A Slash signed trans light.

just made a "name tag mod"

A few that I think are essential for GNR:

* PinSound board with a speaker upgrade (Flipper Fidelity/PinballPro or roll your own)
* LED OCD and EnerGI Maestro boards
* Upgraded magnet board from Great Lakes Modular

And if you're powder coating your side rails, legs and whatnot, replace the plastic rear glass channel, H-channel and lift channel with steel replacements, and have them powder coated to match, along with the U-channel at the bottom of the speaker panel. Easy to overlook doing those, but looks really sharp when done.

And get some custom grips on your gun shooter handle. (Pics of mine below - basement lighting, super-reflective surfaces and my lack of skill with a camera all combining to make some less-than-stellar pics, but you get the idea.)

Rear glass channel, speaker panel U- and H-channels and lift channel replaced w/ steel versions and powder coated:
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Hey blackjacker, where did you get the steel h channel ? Also I have never seen the grips for sale. I've read about useing ones from a ruger.

Got the H-channel, rear glass channel and lift channel from Kerry at mantisamusements.com

I designed the grips and had them made by Cenk Gultekin at handmadegrips.com. They're walnut, with silver and brass inlays. The stock GNR grips are really close to 'real' Ruger size, differing mostly in the fixtures on the back for mounting.

What is the latest on the smoke colored G ramps? I am in for this ramp and the "R" when it becomes available.

I wish I had better news, but the project is still stalled due to my heavy work load. I am hoping things start to slow down for me and I can get back to them. The stuff is still piled up on my desk here, so its not like I can forget about it.

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I'm guessing that the originals (and your first run of repros) were made 'flat' because of some proper mix of engineering and cost concerns, but did/have you given thought to creating them in the actual slope that they're used in-game, like the R ramps were?

The repro that I have on my machine right now has a series of fractures on the "floor" of the area I outlined in the pic below - seemingly stress cracks from the 'twisting' of the ramp when installed.

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Yes, the original and repro G ramps were both formed flat. On my original repro run I looked into having the mold made in the proper shape/angle, but the depth of the mold more than doubles which made the price of the mold skyrocket. Also they were concerned with the depth of the draw for the plastic and it thinning the sheets out too much in the bends and enviably making the ramps weaker. Not to mention the cutting fixture would need to be much more complex. All in all for a small run of ramps none of it mad sense to try. So I went with a flat mold like Data East did. They likely did the same for the same reasons.

All that being said, I am kind of surprised that your are having an issue with stress cracking (this is the first I have ever heard of one cracking). I wonder if others are experiencing the same issue? This plastic is very durable and flexible. Here is a video I just shot of me bending one. And this is an original repro ramp thats been sitting around from 8 years ago.

Thanks for the insight - totally understandable to go flat.

Dude, just the titleframe from that video gives me the heebie-jeebies!

Not sure how long it was after install when my cracks appeared (it wasn't terribly long, as once I noticed them I didn't put the stickers on), nor if it was all at once or if they crept up, but they don't appear to have grown in the year and a half or so since I saw them.

You can just barely see the ends of a few of them just under the upper gate on that ramp in the picture I posted a few days ago earlier on this page. Figure if they ever do expand or if I take that horse to a show I'll drop another ramp in.

What kind of grip we should looking for if i want to change it?.. look like there is a lot of different one in the market...

Whats the chances of getting a pair of those grips to me blackjacker?

What are people doing about the ball launch issue? On my game, using the recommended launch coil, during multi-ball it sometimes gets stuck with multiple balls in the shooter lane. I see there's a service bulletin to address this - does that fool-proof it or are there other solutions?

I have the version 2 chrome ramp,did the service bulletin recommendations, installed new coil,new shooter coil bracket,and have not any issues. I was going to install a stronger coil but have not had to .

I have tryed everything plus a 500 coil and it is better but not good enough,could we remove the offending ramp an have it chromed,mabey chromed in black or electro plated or what ever,what would you recommend.very fun game but When multi ball starts it is a concern.

I think the chrome helps . I'd switch to version 3 if I could find one. Check your bracket that holds coil. Mine was broken and bent. Got another one from planetary pinball.

I know what you mean. Really sucks when balls back up in shooter lane. I was very frustrated but refused to give up.

Can you post some pics of the backboard where you re-drilled the mounting hole?

Does anyone have any pictures or good instructions on adding the cold cathode tubes to backlight the Pinbits GNR red backpanel? I have seen many people mention they did the mod, but can't find any good instructions.

I would also like to know if they used one or two cathode tubes and what length.

Thanks!

I tryed the cold tube but it screwed up my audio so I just used a strip of 12 v LEDs,you need to use the orginal plastic for a mount backplate for the cold tube or the led strip then some spacers and then the pinbits plastic.you will need to pull the orginal bolts and buy some longer one and cut the heads off for a nut,I guess you could put it all toghter and then run the bolts through both plastics with the spacers into the game but I found it easer to mount screws,orginal plastic ,tube or led strip,spacers,pinbit plastic then nuts,look a few pages back, someone explains there similar mount

Wow! Very well done mod! I need get me a g n r pin and do this mod lol

I thought I´d posted some pics already but can´t find them anymore so here they are again. Maybe they give you an idea how that backpanel can be mounted very easily.
I used normal 1" hexbolts which go right into the original hinges (the two in the middle are just for stability). Then the Pinbits backpanel is mounted onto those hexbolts.

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Did you mean original holes in the quote above? If so I noticed the Pinbits plastic is pre-drilled so maybe that's where those holes line up?

I think I am going to try and light mine up with cold cathode tubes.

Thanks for the pics and info!

Yes, there´s two little hinges on each side of the cabinet right under the backbox. The Pinbits plastic (the engraved one as well as the blank one) line exactly up with the holes in those hinges. The only holes I had to drill where the ones in the middle of the blank plastic for the "stability posts".

Thanks!

I think I am lucky, as I do not have any wear whatsoever on the pf.

My first PF swap was my GNR, just about 2 years ago. It's really just a matter of taking way too many photos and keeping the parts tagged and separated by area/order of removal.

Tore mine down and sent the playfield to HEP for restore/clear. While it was gone, everything got cleaned, metal off to the powder coater, connectors repinned as needed, etc. - it's a big job, but a great opportunity to get everything attached to the PF cleaned and tweaked. Do it!

I just preordered one. Does anyone have an estimated time frame? I am guessing quite a while, but I could (hopefully) be wrong. I hate to go to the time and expense of this. My playfield only has one flaw, but it is a small gash to the wood right on Slash's arm. It is covered, and not a single person has noticed it until I point it out to them, but I just don't like it. lol

Cheers for the heads up, ordered!

Just thought I would share this info: I wanted to light up my snake and mirror backboard with LED Strips which needed 12v.

As I had recently upgraded to the ColorDMD I realized I know have an extra connector not being used for the Colordmd (old power connector for display) I noticed there was a 12v pin in that connector and ran new 12v lines to each of the 12v strips.

Hopefully helpful to someone...

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Lit up my snake via a 12 VDC led strip inside the snake along the length

Powered it via a step up board connected via a bridge rectifier to the GI. In this way it goes off when the GI goes off and also you can easily control the voltage eg the strength of the led light

So, changed speakers and lit them up, colordmd, white rubber, superbands, upgraded speakers, cleaned everything. What's next? Pinsound?

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PinSound is a must in GNR. Along with LED OCD and EnerGI Maestro.

Made a little movie on my GnR including gameplay and picutres befor and after. Hope you guys dont find it boring

Yes I agree and have the Pinsound!

IMO, Pinsound is the BEST mod for a GNR Pinball Machine