(Topic ID: 35209)

Guns N' Roses Mods


By xsonics2k2

7 years ago



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  • 340 posts
  • 94 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by Coindork
  • Topic is favorited by 49 Pinsiders

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There are 340 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 7.
#101 5 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I just had custom drop targets made. I purchased new drop targets, colored them in black, had graphics company print off the album covers stickers made of durable material, then clear coated.

Very Nice! that's pretty F'N cool!

#102 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

If I'm not mistaken they are Blackhawk grips.

For the record ... I used blackhawk but they aren't quite right and I did have to modify the grips themselves...but they do work. However they do stick out beyond the front of the handle. It isn't noticeable by looking at it. only when you actually grab the handle. I also tried Colt grips but they were waaaay off. I went with basic rosewood although I loved the the texas ranger stars Nelly used but I just couldn't find them for Ruger Blackhawk. Just thought would share for anyone else who might be interested.
grips.JPG

1 week later
#103 5 years ago
Quoted from poibug:

I velcro'd an amp on each of the ramps,and changed the normal lamp mounted on there to a LED's

poibug

DSCF0005.JPG 321 KB
DSCF0006.JPG 323 KB

I like this but am wondering how bright the LED's are compared to 555 bulbs that were removed

#104 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballYeti:

So I needed to replace the Axl plastic on my GnR. Since I didn't want to drill a hole in my brand new plastic to mount the bulb socket (for Mystery when lit) I wanted to find a different solution. I decided to move the bulb socket to underneath the playfield and light the scoop instead of having the bulb hang off of the Axl plastic. IMO, it makes the area around the scoop look a bit less cluttered and having the scoop light up looks very nice.
I removed the bulb socket from the old Axl plastic and pulled it through to underneath the playfield. Next I needed a bracket to mount the socket to. I just took an old piece of metal, drilled a hole in each end and bent it to fit. I mounted the bracket to the front screw that holds the scoop to the playfield.

GNR2.jpg 2.4 MB
GNR1.jpg 2.1 MB

Very NICE! =) I'm tired of occasionally having to pick up 555 bulb of the playfield while in the middle of a game

#105 5 years ago

couldn't the bottom be sanded off and restained?

#106 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

couldn't the bottom be sanded off and restained?

Are you referring to the grips? if so..yes that is a possibility however also a lot of work to get it right. I'm satified with my result ,,,,, grips were approx 25 bucks ... not really out much

#107 5 years ago

they do look good, and if they are only $25, it wouldn't hurt to sand them down if you really wanted to. I think they look fantastic, but the overhang would bother me, because I like playing with the guns on my machines while i'm walking around on a phone conversation.

#108 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

they do look good, and if they are only $25, it wouldn't hurt to sand them down if you really wanted to. I think they look fantastic, but the overhang would bother me, because I like playing with the guns on my machines while i'm walking around on a phone conversation.

there is no overhang on the bottom if thats what you mean ... i think that is an illusion from ther photo. The "back and bottom" of the handle are flush .... the extension is actually at what i would call the front where your fingers go around. Perhaps were talking about the same thing ...its not uncomfortable by any means... i wonder if anyone whos never held a gun would really notice. but yeah it could be better

#109 5 years ago

gotcha. The picture I thought it was on the back. On the front it wouldn't bother me either. That's where the confusion was in.

#110 5 years ago

I also did the side rails but don't have those pics in my iPad I'll update better shots later

#111 5 years ago

// Error: Image 230512 not found //

image-803.jpg image-992.jpg image-800.jpg
#112 5 years ago

why does it look orange in one pic and red in the other? I like the orange better.

#113 5 years ago

There red .. Just a phone shot Don't think orange really goes with the color scheme IMO. It is possible to do it in orange though

#114 5 years ago

Looks really nice with the snakeskin! How was that done?

#115 5 years ago
Quoted from Iamdarras:

image-803.jpg 43 KB

image-992.jpg 53 KB

image-800.jpg 53 KB

I want it
Send it my way

#116 5 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Looks really nice with the snakeskin! How was that done?

Looks like hydroprinting to me. Its pretty awesome stuff. I did this to some ramps and flipper bats to make them look like wood grain in the game I am building.

Wood Flipper Bat 2.jpg

Wood Ramp 2.jpg

Wood Ramp 3.jpg

#117 5 years ago
Quoted from HighwayStarr:

For the record ... I used blackhawk but they aren't quite right and I did have to modify the grips themselves...but they do work. However they do stick out beyond the front of the handle. It isn't noticeable by looking at it. only when you actually grab the handle. I also tried Colt grips but they were waaaay off. I went with basic rosewood although I loved the the texas ranger stars Nelly used but I just couldn't find them for Ruger Blackhawk. Just thought would share for anyone else who might be interested.

grips.JPG 144 KB

I had to trim mine in the front as well, but only near the top (in front of the star on mine). It wasn't much though.

#118 5 years ago

That looks really nice.
You can see wood grain.

Quoted from Nelly:

Looks like hydroprinting to me. Its pretty awesome stuff. I did this to some ramps and flipper bats to make them look like wood grain in the game I am building.

Wood Flipper Bat 2.jpg 22 KB

Wood Ramp 3.jpg 44 KB

Wood Ramp 2.jpg 35 KB

#119 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

Looks like hydroprinting to me. Its pretty awesome stuff. I did this to some ramps and flipper bats to make them look like wood grain in the game I am building.

Wood Flipper Bat 2.jpg 22 KB

Wood Ramp 3.jpg 44 KB

Wood Ramp 2.jpg 35 KB

Looks awesome. How expensive is this process and how durable?

#120 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

Looks like hydroprinting to me. Its pretty awesome stuff. I did this to some ramps and flipper bats to make them look like wood grain in the game I am building.

yup totally -- i used a two part automotive clear coat for the lockdown and side rails of protection. I though it was pretty easy to do.

Wood Flipper Bat 2.jpg 22 KB

Wood Ramp 3.jpg 44 KB

Wood Ramp 2.jpg 35 KB

#121 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

I had to trim mine in the front as well, but only near the top (in front of the star on mine). It wasn't much though.

Ditto!

#122 5 years ago
Quoted from pingod:

That looks really nice.
You can see wood grain.

Thanks! I am really happy with how it turned out!

Quoted from CaptainNeo:

Looks awesome. How expensive is this process and how durable?

I did it myself, so it wasn't to pricey. The kit cost me about $80 and comes with way more then I needed. As for durability, it is holding up great! Here are a couple of videos showing the process and the durability.

1 month later
#124 5 years ago

I'm trying to figure out a good way to light up the left upper corner green circle that is the end of the snake ramp. Has anyone done this? I'm considering adding some 6 SMD green pads
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smd12vpad.htm
or trying a 12v strip
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/3smd12vstrip.htm

GNR green circle.jpg

#125 5 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I'm trying to figure out a good way to light up the left upper corner green circle that is the end of the snake ramp. Has anyone done this? I'm considering adding some 6 SMD green pads
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smd12vpad.htm
or trying a 12v strip
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/3smd12vstrip.htm

GNR green circle.jpg 29 KB

GNR green circle-33.jpg 29 KB

The set of spotlights on the left is supposed to be turned towards the bowl. Put some ultra bright LEDs in the sockets and call it a day.

#126 5 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I'm trying to figure out a good way to light up the left upper corner green circle that is the end of the snake ramp. Has anyone done this? I'm considering adding some 6 SMD green pads
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6smd12vpad.htm
or trying a 12v strip
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/3smd12vstrip.htm

GNR green circle.jpg 29 KB

GNR green circle-33.jpg 29 KB

Green Led strip. I ran one down the entire snake. RGB LED strips 50/50 the white wire to 12v and the ground the green

2 weeks later
#127 5 years ago

image.jpg

Green trim for mine

#128 5 years ago

Wow that green powdercoat looks killer, good job.

#129 5 years ago

Just wondering if anyone can share how they went about lighting the following Guns N Roses mod from Pinbits. I've ordered it but am considering using a red LED strip fastened to the rear of the cabinet unless anyone else has used this with lighting and has a suggestion.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_55&products_id=420

#130 5 years ago

I put the LED strip on the old backbox mirror and then installed that one with two hex spacers onto the original hinges. Then I mounted the new backbox mirror onto those hex spacers. I don´t remember which spacer length I used, but you have to make sure, that you don´t collide with the ramps etc.
I could provide a picture over the weekend if needed.

#131 5 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I put the LED strip on the old backbox mirror and then installed that one with two hex spacers onto the original hinges. Then I mounted the new backbox mirror onto those hex spacers. I don´t remember which spacer length I used, but you have to make sure, that you don´t collide with the ramps etc.
I could provide a picture over the weekend if needed.

That would be excellent if you could send a picture. I like your idea of using the old plate as a mounting surface for use directly behind the new mirror. What kind of LED strip did you use and what voltage?

#132 5 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

I put the LED strip on the old backbox mirror and then installed that one with two hex spacers onto the original hinges. Then I mounted the new backbox mirror onto those hex spacers. I don´t remember which spacer length I used, but you have to make sure, that you don´t collide with the ramps etc.
I could provide a picture over the weekend if needed.

would either one of these LEDs strip work well without showing the diodes as red dots behind the mirror? I actually used the green version of the SuperBrightLEDs LED strip to light up the snake. I'm looking for a nice confluent red glow.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-strips-and-bars/high-power-led-flexible-light-strip--nfls-x3/1465/3294/#/tab/Specifications

or this one from Amazon:

amazon.com link »

#133 5 years ago

Hi Dr. Mark,
I finally managed to shoot a few pictures of my installation.

The backside panel carries the LED strip, the "real" backboard mirror with the Guns'N'Roses writing is attached to the left and right hex spacer (I used 7/8" spacers), left side unscrewed for better visibility.
P1050613.JPG

LED 12V connected to the Power Supply Board:
P1050610.JPG

Forgot to shoot a picture of how it actually looks, but because of the distance between LED strip and mirror you don´t see the individual LEDs.

Hope this helps.

3 weeks later
#134 5 years ago
Quoted from nath2099:

So here is what I have done, and I take absolutely no responsibility if you try this and it doesn't work, or worse...
This differs from poibug's instructions in that the pin markings on the CPU and PPB don't match, and 9VAC couldn't be found on either poibugs pins 9 and 10 on the flipper board J1, or the schematics pins 6 and 7 on the flipper board J1.
Anyway, here you are:
Step 1
Run a new cable from CPU CN12 Pin 9 (The left hand end pin of CN12, image_1 A) to PPU J8 Pin 9 (Second pin from left hand end of J8, image_1 B)

Step 2
Run a new cable from PPU J8 Pin 10 (The left hand end pin of J8, image_1 B) to Shaker board pin 7 (image_2)

Step 3
Splice into wires for pins 10 and 4 on flipper board (image_3, for me was 9VAC but measure it with a multi-meter) and connect them to pins 2 and 4 on shaker board (doesn't matter which way)

image_3.jpg 161 KB

image_2.jpg 227 KB

image_1.jpg 344 KB

I just installed a shaker in mine, and I used a combination of these instructions and poibugs...and the manual (which has a lot of mistakes). I am just going to modify what was posted here since it is mostly right, from what I experienced.

This differs from poibug's instructions in that the pin markings on the CPU and PPB don't match, and 9VAC couldn't be found on either poibugs pins 9 and 10 on the flipper board J1, or the schematics pins 6 and 7 on the flipper board J1. Note: I think there is a lot of confusion on this one. You need to use CN2 9 and 10 on the flipper board. These are the grey/green and grey wires. poibug said that one of the wires goes to both pins 6 and 7 on the shaker board, which is correct.

Anyway, here you are:
Step 1
Run a new cable from CPU CN12 Pin 9 (The left hand end pin of CN12, image_1 A) to PPU J8 Pin 9 (Second pin from left hand end of J8, image_1 B)
Note: Perfect! the original confusion on this came from the manual. It shows a 12 pin connector with 2 keys. The board actually uses a 10 pin connector with no keys.

Step 2
Run a new cable from PPU J8 Pin 10 (The left hand end pin of J8, image_1 B) to Shaker board pin 7 (image_2)
Note: This will work, but according to the manual, this wire attaches to both 6 and 7 on the shaker board. All 3 of the wires are looped to 2 pins on the shaker board according to the manual.

Step 3
Splice into wires for pins 10 and 4 on flipper board (image_3, for me was 9VAC but measure it with a multi-meter) and connect them to pins 2 and 4 on shaker board (doesn't matter which way)
Note: As mentioned above, use pins CN2 9 and 10 (grey/green and grey). It doesn't matter which one goes where onthe shaker board. Connect one of them to pins 1 and 2 on the shaker board, and the other to pins 4 and 5.

That is all there is to it! The shaker is a great addition to this game. It is used on a lot of the shots, even on the DUFF targets, which I thought was cool. The shaker feels a lot different in this game than in others because it is such a heavy game, but I really like the feel. If you don't absolutely hate shakers, I think this has to be a must have mod!

Here are the instructions without all the notes. The only difference I found from the pictures is that the connector on my shaker board (which is a Sega from a Harley Davidson) is that the connector is backwards from what is shown in the pic. ie, pin 7 is at the bottom instead of the top as shown in the pic.

Step 1
Run a new cable from CPU CN12 Pin 9 (The left hand end pin of CN12, image_1 A) to PPU J8 Pin 9 (Second pin from left hand end of J8, image_1 B)

Step 2
Run a new cable from PPU J8 Pin 10 (The left hand end pin of J8, image_1 B) to Shaker board pins 6 and 7 (image_2)

Step 3
Splice into wires for CN2 pins 9 and 10 (grey/green and grey) on flipper board (image_3). It doesn't matter which one goes where on the shaker board. Connect one of them to pins 1 and 2 on the shaker board, and the other to pins 4 and 5.

1 week later
#135 5 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Thanks for that, Nexyss, poibug and nath2099. Just dropped a shaker into mine - super-easy.

4 months later
#136 5 years ago

Would anyone be interested in a run of gun colored G ramps for their machine?

Proto G Ramp 1.JPG

#137 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

Would anyone be interested in a run of gun colored G ramps for their machine?

Absolutely!

And R ramps to match.

#138 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

Would anyone be interested in a run of gun colored G ramps for their machine?

Proto G Ramp 1.JPG 186 KB

Yeah, I'd take both, nice change and good to have a backup

#139 5 years ago

One of these days ill have to make a headphone kit for Gnr... I know the factory exports had a version. Time to make a domestic one

#140 5 years ago

I'd probably be in just for a backup. GNR seems to be a keeper. I actually am not a huge fan of the colored ramps, and think the gun colored would look killer, especially if both were done.

Is it hard to attached the metal flaps, etc?

#141 5 years ago

That would seriously cool! Could you do the R ramp as well?

#142 5 years ago

The R ramp would be more difficult for me to do. I am the one that initially made the repro G ramps back in 2007. I sold the mold and stuff off to Pinball Inc about a year later. I still have all the CAD drawings and could whip up another G ramp mold fairly easily, but an R ramp mold would have to be re-engineered using an existing R ramp (which I do not have).

So is it possible to do the R ramp as well? Yes, but I'm not sure there would be enough interest to warrant the time needed to draw up and recreate a mold for that.

#143 5 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

So is it possible to do the R ramp as well? Yes, but I'm not sure there would be enough interest to warrant the time needed to draw up and recreate a mold for that.

I'd have to think that most people interested in a "smoked" G ramp repro would also get a matching R at the same time if available. I'd be in for 2 of each at least.

As you know the R was never repro'd, and even though the stock R seems to not break/crack nearly as often as the G, having repro's available (especially matching the "smoked" G) would be sweet.

#144 5 years ago

To be honest, the smoke colored ramps would look bad ass on that pin. Not a fan of the red/yellow colored ramps. PLUS smoke colored ramps wouldn't show ball tracks as well either!

How easy is it to remove existing hardware from old ramps, and place onto the new ones (if formed)? This would make my decision to buy a little more clarified.

#145 5 years ago

So the ramp in your picture, can I buy it?

Is there a chance you and Pinball Inc could work together?

#146 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

How easy is it to remove existing hardware from old ramps, and place onto the new ones (if formed)?

On the previous G ramp repro, the hardware was already installed, with the exception of the trap door flap, for which screws were included.

But if you had to transfer your old hardware, if you have a drill and a rivet press, easy. If not, Action Pinball (among others) offers a "you send it, we rivet it" mail-in service.

Quoted from spacies:

Is there a chance you and Pinball Inc could work together?

Pinball Inc is out of the repro ramp business. Starship Fantasy has taken that over, but it sounds like their dance card is full through 2015 at least.

#147 5 years ago

Well if there is enough demand I will consider it. But it would need to be a significant amount. Personally I like the fact that the R ramp is red. R is for roses which most people associate with as red. Guns however are not neon green/yellow, which is why I think the grey tinted plastic makes more sense for the G ramp.

I can offer these with or without hardware. With will obviously make the price go up. Transferring your own stuff really is not all that difficult if you have a rivet tool of some sort.

I would be making these on my own just like I did the first time. There is no need to partner with someone like pinball inc for such a small run.

#148 5 years ago

Cool, so what sort of number would you need?

#149 5 years ago

Rough estimate of price w hardware and without?

#150 5 years ago

Have a pic of that ramp in a game?

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