Joined the club an hour ago.

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I may be a dual member if that happens.

I have seen a couple of things referenced maybe some of you guys can help me.

Pinsound board. Is this a "must have", sounds like it would be cool. Also, if so, where can I get one?

Next, new ramps I see guys talking about them, where can I buy them?

thanks everybody

will do, thanks.

I found the pinsound website.

I have a couple of questions.

I bought all of the cliffys. It looks like they (or some knockoff), are already installed at the lower part of my yellow ramp?

I assume the yellow ramp needs to come completely off for the cliffy ramp part. I think this stupid nut (pictured), is the main one holding me back. How are you guys getting this one off?

Is my right yellow ramp post incorrect? I saw a picture that looks different than mine.

Edit: i got the ramp out, but this thing needs to be shopped. So I am going to order new rubbers , and do this all at once.

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thanks guys.

this baby is going to be SWEET in a week or so.

A solder reflow is a 10-40 minute job max. Probably closer to 10 minutes. Let someone try to do that for you (if you don't solder), before buying a new board.
(if you have a local enough guy to lend a hand).

good luck!

Geez, 5 hours and I’ve installed all but 1 cliffy, and half of the new rubbers.

And.....my freaking gate that lets the ball into the snake pit doesn't have room to open and close.

But, I made progress, haha.

I am only guessing, but it probably took me 2 hours to get those freakin cliffys on the yellow ramp.

Best fucking part, I cant get the fucking yellow ramp door to open and close so I do some tweaking to it.

All done, new rubbers, wax it.

Apparently my adjustment to make that door able to work had the yellow ramp too high. Shattered the piece of shit when re installing the glass.

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Nope. I may be able to glue it so I can play it, but I still have the issue of the door on that ramp not opening and closing.

Yes he did, thanks!

I have the new ramp in my possession. I assume some of the gate parts are riveted? So I need to drill them out and re-rivet them back into the new ramp?

Also does anyone sell the slash sticker that goes on the ramp? Mine is reusable, but a new one would be nice.

Well my rivets wouldn't fit through both pieces of metal and the ramp so I used small bolts.

This is as close as I am going to get.

Edit: good thing I used bolts instead of rivets here. Loosening the screws are helping me line things up.
Updated pic later.

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New ramp installed.

Door still has no room to open/close, but that problem is for another day.

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yep and adjusting that got me into a situation where I destroyed my original ramp (after spending hours cliffy-ing it up)

I'm leaving for CAX tomorrow, so I will deal with it some time after I get back.

does someone sell the slash sticker?

I remember you offering (thank you)

I will be hitting you up at some point

Hey so my new left ramp gets some "fliers", meaning the ball is traveling so fast it jumps through the ramp into the upper part of the cab and doesn't spin the way you may expect.

Admittedly, I was fortunate and got a repro ramp that was defined as "a second", though it looks fantastic. It is awesome.

I am thinking of putting a "lid" on the ramp right around the front half.

I would appreciate any insight/advice, etc.

My new ramp does this as well. I just went and bought some polycarbonate/plastic today.
I am going to build a partial “lid” to go onto the ramp. I could probably make 2. I will report back after I get a chance to make them.

Well I will start by saying I bought a "factory second" ramp at a lower price. There were no more G ramps for sale, so I was happy to get anything after shattering my ramp.

I spent around an hour today cutting a piece and testing it as a lid to the G ramp to stop air balls. Without the lid the air balls are 100% with my right flipper. The left flipper just runs through the ramp as it should.

NO LUCK unfortunately. No matter where I position my "lid" on the ramp, the ball is attempting to be an air ball and loses too much steam when it hits the lid. I tried 250 times and never got a ball to travel through the G ramp with either flipper.

This is a $2 investment and a mickey mouse attempt at a fix. (though it did look good).

I may try to build something that isn't flush with the ramp so the ball doesn't get slowed down by the lid. Maybe recessed off of the ramp a couple of inches, but in a position that forces the ball into traveling through the ramp, vs up into the snake spin.

Oh and I still haven't figured out how to get my slash door to open and close yet. haha. I just can't get the ramps in a reasonable position .

I'm almost over it and going to list t his thing.

Goofy question here everyone.

Is there a trick to getting the side rails off of GnR? I only see 2 screws, I removed them but it doesn't want to come off.

I feel like its going to rip wood or paint/art if I force it. Am I missing something?

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That is what it feels like. Why would there be double-sided tape there?

Because I have a new stern set from batman66. They appear to be a perfect match. I was going to replace them.

They are all black

Best One I’ve ever seen.

I was going To add a set of hand wear protectors as well. The clear mylar style.

Looks awesome! Nice job on that.

Yes the hand wear protectors and easy on, easy off.

For the record:
The stern batman66 rails are NOT a perfect fit. About 1/4” too long, and maybe 1/16th-1/8th of an inch too short on how they hang down the side of the cab. I didn’t change them. Just installed the hand wear protectors.

Not sure if this is inappropriate or accepted...I have 2 - 100% functional dmds.

One from my GnR, one from my Rocky and Bullwinkle.

I think they are interchangeable, someone correct me if not.

I am not looking to get rich, but would like to make a few bucks from them to offset the color dmd.