Have you done the pinbits light sign mod and add a slash over the top lanes ,I also added mirror blades. fun game.i plugged it into a external sub, sounds so good that I did not upgrade the speakers but it could only help

I would not pay 200.00 for slash ether,I believe I paid 60.00 from eBay and that was just a few weeks ago,the pinbit sign is about 30.00 U.S. and of corse you have to backlight it also, enjoy your game

Yep and it is random,I have messed around with the area and have had little luck,sometimes it rails around and other times it looks to hit something and just about stop,like the other wire form troubles I don really know a good fix,still a very fun game with its little problems

I know I would buy one

Good news on the ramps,I'm in on a g ramp.

I have always had trouble with my ball launch like a lot of others and I have the old style ramp and vuk which are the worst,I also just saw the stainless GnR ramp and vuk for sale a few days ago for a lot of money and to tell you the truth I almost bought the set.i have done the data east published fixes and have also replaced the launch coil with the stronger one with very little improvement but after playing a few days ago and during mulitball the ball did not make the ramp and balls stacked up in the shooter lane forcing me to pull the glass,well enough is enough and I started to take a closer look at lowering the ramp and the problem is the wire form shooter ramp sits on top of the R plastic ramp and can't be lowered farther than what was done in the data east tech alert.
This is what I did to lower the wire form to a point where the balls can more easily make the launch
1, I removed the right rear red flasher assembly
2,removed the r ramp support bracket in the rear also used for the twin lamp
3,loosened the shooter wire form from the rear were it is slotted in the backboard
4, cut the slot in the backboard much farther than was possible before because of the wire form hitting the r ramp and if you cut to far you can always just raise the rear of the wire form and tighten back down with the bolt and washer fastener in the slot.
5,lower the wire form for into the slot you have cut lower and then you will see that because you removed the R ramp support you can lower the wire form much more than before.
6,now that you have the slot cut lower and the wire form sitting lower you will need to lower the R ramp support bracket ,I straightened it with a vice and hammer and then re bent the support lower so I could reattach the support under the R ramp and if it is to short to give the R ramp proper support I just used a rubber cap of some kind to give the support the correct height.
7,now that the shooter wire form is lower and the R ramp is lower the ball makes it up much easer and it seems to have no affect on the performance of the R ramp
8, what can you do with the removed red flasher,I shimmed the flasher from the rear so the bulb was a few mm away from the front of the backboard and than used red filter film over the flasher hole to cover the hole and bulb so you still get a red flash,you may want to use an led for the flasher because I guess it could burn the red film but I have had no trouble because it is a flasher and not on that much.
Game players much better and the vuk seems to work better now mabey because the wire form is a bit farther away and the ball has more energy when it contacts the wire From,I use to get stuck balls there but a nudge usually freed the ball.
I hope this help some of us that don't have the good wire forms that data east sent out all those years ago and the game looks fine with out the flasher plastic dome.
I wish I took pictures but I believe this gets the job done