(Topic ID: 57299)

DE GUNS N' ROSES CLUB - GNR - Members Only!

By MrBellMan

10 years ago


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#24 10 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

GNR was one of the first pins I bought, I chose it over a TOTAN for the same price, same condition. The whole package is unparalleled, it stood alone for nearly 2 decades as the only real "rock" pin until ACDC and MET came along, and like MET it is a Borg design with Lyman's participation as well. It is the only game with 3 mid-field magnets slinging 2-to-6 ball multiball every which way.
I've gone thorough a round of trying to brighten up the game, being 20 years old... really hesitant to go LED which would affect the light show. I'm not yet convinced this game is a good candidate for LEDs, but I think it can be done somehow.

What about kiss or tommy?

Taf has 3 magnets as well.

Btw I think the game looks good with LEDs. Replaced all bulbs with LEDs in mine except the backbox. (Didn't care for em there at all!)

1 month later
#68 10 years ago
Quoted from Dbaum88:

Also, with the buy-in button, you basically turn every game from 3 ball to 5 ball and Billion+ scores become fairly routine.

Keep it at 3, turn off the buy-in. High scores don't mean as much if they take 5 balls to get to

1 month later
#104 10 years ago
Quoted from Iamdarras:

We need to rally Simone up to get into the code and change the Ain't going down song! It's he only thing I don't dig about the game!

No way. The game is the only place you can find the song. Keep it in.

#106 10 years ago
Quoted from Blackjacker:

There are plenty of things I'd love to see revised in or added to GNR's code, but like dsuperbee I'd leave Ain't Goin' Down in.
For a 'cosmetic' only change, I'd like to see the order in which you get the band members on stage changed. Having Axl get on stage last (or sometimes not all) would seem to be a no-brainer.

A new 'Axl threw a fit so no show' tonight multiball would be awesome.

Problem is there is already a 'riot' mode.....

2 months later
#124 10 years ago
Quoted from RoadRunner:

A new member joining in! I got my GnR a few weeks back and have been playing it a lot these days (and nights). The shooter lane switch leaf was broken when I got the game, but everything still worked fine. Except for when starting a ball with gilby rolls guitar feature. When the ride was over, I had to wait 'til the game went into ball search and launched the ball into play. If I pulled the trigger, it would only lock the feature instead of launching the ball. I changed the switch thinking it would fix the issue, but it still remains.
Anyone else with the same problem?
Otherways my game is pretty fine. I added McFarlane Slash with his Marshalls, stripped, cleaned and waxed the playfield, put new balls in, fixed one crispy GI connector and did some other minor stuff. I think I will be holding on to this one for a long time...it might even be a keeper

Your switch underneath the guitar feature is flakey. It will need to be replaced.

I need to get a couple of flakey sockets fixed in mine, and see what caused the magnets to blow their fuses last week.

#127 10 years ago
Quoted from RoadRunner:

Nope, guitar feature switch works just fine, the problem is when I start a new ball with guitar feature Gilby rolls. After the ride is done and the ball still sits on the shooter lane, it will not launch until the ball search.

Ah. Gotcha. I thought you meant it was in the start feature area. I would check the switch in the shooter lane then. It shouldn't have to wait until a ball search happens

#129 10 years ago
Quoted from RoadRunner:

I changed the whole switch since the old one was broken. Shooter lane switch gets recognized in the switch test just fine, but still makes me wait for ball search after Gilby is done with his ride. All the other switches work fine too, so I suppose all is well with the switch matrix. Im outta ideas

Very strange. Never had this issue on mine. Maybe there is an issue with the ROMs.

#132 10 years ago
Quoted from Arcadegarage:

Does anyone think the Macfarlane 6.5" slash mod is too tall in their machine? I'm looking into getting a slash mod and didn't want to have a figure that looked disproportionate on the pf. Thanks.

The pinball machine is technically not 'to scale' for any toy that goes in there.

I would say it is your machine, go ahead and do it if you want!

#137 10 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

That´s interesting. I have the same shooter ramp, but there´s a one way gate at the end of the left orbit, which keeps the ball from going all around like you describe it.
On the other hand there´s no such gate at the end of the right orbit, so a shot up the left orbit goes all around and doesn´t end up in the bumpers.

The one way gate should be on the right side, not on the left. I am guessing it was moved since the inner loop gate can sometimes get stuck on the outer loop gate, causing issues.

3 weeks later
#145 10 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Probably a silly question, but how many balls should the GNR pinball have for active gameplay (not counting the DUFF ball)? Mine has 5 but I've read that it should have 6.

6 balls, one for each band member. 7 total in the game including the captive duff ball.

Funny, my gnr doesn't look anywhere near as dark as yours does pre spot light additions. I've always considered it one of my brighter games (especially when compared to the hs right next to it)

#148 10 years ago
Quoted from CraZ4Pin:

Possibly someone prior to you added some lighting enhancements? Mine was fairly dark when I got it ... but then Steve (Hemi) at Pinball Refinery worked his magic and now it's lit up nicer than a Christmas tree.

Nope, no mods were placed until I got it. Will take a pic later on and post.

#149 10 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I'm wondering if anyone can help me locate the specs for the screws for Guns N' Roses pinball that secure the Axl scoop plastic down. One of my 2 screws fell somewhere while I was doing some mods and I cannot find it! I would like to match the screws so need the identical screw or 2 new ones but was wondering if anyone can refer to a parts company that would carry this. I checked in the manual but the screws are not detailed (only posts). Thanks in advance!

Just go to a local hardware store. They will have em!

1 month later
#154 10 years ago
Quoted from a_derelict:

just picked up a GnR for 1k with a very nice playfield and cabinet. he had a jumper bypassing the f1 fuse on the psb and the game was functional . which brand of replacement board recommended? this one is fried pretty good behind fuses f1 and f2. but everything else on it is snazzy. no topper though...

Post some pics of the board, it's probably repairable

#156 10 years ago
Quoted from a_derelict:

it looks like someone spliced and soldered a violet/brown to psb, and a green/yellow to psb right around the base of the relay. also, there isn't anything plugged into the molex connection adjacent to the relay.
Any ideas where the violet, brown, yellow and green wires fitted onto the board originally?

PSBphoto.JPG 167 KB

I'm currently not home, so cannot check my game. But if you have not already done so, pick up (or download) a copy of the manual. It should tell you everything you need to know.

#161 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I have read a lot of stories about people modifying flipper and shooter coils to make them stronger. I found a simple adjustment in the menu to increase coil pulse just like on newer Sterns did the trick. The game plays so much better, and the ball flies up the ramps now. Even backhand from both sides. There is also a noticeable difference in magnet action during multiball.

I would personally rather just put in a stronger shooter lane coil and be done with it. I always worry that increasing the coil impulse to everything increases the risk for broken plastics and such.

2 months later
#168 9 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Has anyone here used EL wire to light up their G and R ramps using yellow and red (respectively)? I'm planning on using Coolight that many have used to modify Tron ramps and have the ramps continuously on with these colors as the ramps are so dark and could use some additional lighting.

el 1-597.jpg 205 KB

Thought about it, but doesn't fit the game for me. I used retro cool white LEDs in the gi to brighten it up some.

3 months later
#197 9 years ago

Pitch is built in with where the legs mount to the game. If you want more, adjust the levelers!

#203 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks for all the info on the shopout.
I'm about half way through the top. All ramps and wireforms off. Apron, etc. So far extremely easy. I can't believe how easy the ramps remove.
My only gripe (and this isn't a shopout gripe) is I noticed that the axl plastic has that light rivited on to the bottom of it. I ordered a new plastic, as mine is cracked. I have no ability to attach the light to the new one. Thinking of super gluing it actually.

Just use a small nut and bolt, glue WILL eventually fail. I would also put mylar on the underside of the starburst plastic, as it sits on the scoop and will wear.

#207 9 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

12 songs I think. Plays almost the entire album of AOD. Doesn't play rocket queen tho which I was hoping was the song for RIOT.

It is missing quite a bit: Welcome to the Jungle, Mr. Brownstone, Paradise City, and Sweet Child O Mine are used extensively. It uses the clip from My Michelle. Nothing at all (that I can remember) from: Nighttrain, out to get me, Think about you, you're crazy, anything goes, or Rocket Queen.

I Do LOVE the fact that Mr. Brownstone is used and featured a bit, especially given the fact it is about Heroin use.....Isn't there a blurb in the DMD about not using drugs???

This game would be GREAT with P-roc. Wish I knew programming.

#209 9 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Nighttrain comes on when you start multiball. One of the reasons I love this machine so much.

D'oh! That's right. I obviously need to play more!

#216 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Anyone have any trouble with the cliffy for the g ramp?
The holes aren't lining up well for the cliffy and ramp

Original or repro ramp?

#219 9 years ago

Blackbeard:

The protector for the trap door really only needs to be used on old, falling apart almost broken in 2 ramps. (He used my G ramp for the prototype, and mine was held together by the sticker.) If it is a repro ramp or a ramp with no damage, I really would not worry about it.

Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I've had some trouble with my G ramp after I had removed it to install my EL Wire with the slope being a bit steeper than it used to be so it's harder to get the ball up the ramp. It appears that everything is lined up just fine but for some reason the "feel" is not the same to get the ball up the ramp and even when putting the backglass back on, the glass will occasionally slide against the top part of the Slash decal metal piece above the snake ramp trap door.

The ramp is VERY tight with little space to adjust. If it is hitting the glass, something is not sitting/aligned right. Make sure the EL wire is not coming between the ramp and anything else. Check around the trap door, as if any part of the assy to open the trap door is sitting on the metal habittrail, it will kick up the ramp just enough to make it hit the glass.

#221 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys: I should've made my post more detailed. I apologize.
I'm talking about the cliffy for the G ramp's entrance... not the trap door..

Ahh! Much easier! I just re-drilled the ramps. Easy-peasy

#224 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I'm nervous about redrilling the ramps. Did you just use a standard drill bit?
Cliffy mentioned just filing the metal holes of the protector to allow a skewed screw hole

You can file or re-drill, your choice. I just used a standard bit, no big deal. Just go smaller than the screw and you are golden.

#230 9 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I tried to push the ramp down and still not much luck. I'm finding the top of the G seems much steeper but the circle at the end of the snakepit is underneath it and it can't really be lowered.
I just seem to have alot more trouble getting the ball up the ramp that I used to have. The R ramp is super easy to hit.
Perhaps I will post some pictures and see if anyone has any other suggestions to drop this down a bit.

The G ramp is steep no doubt and a tough ramp shot, it always has been. (Probably one of the steepest, if not THE steepest ramp ever produced.) The R ramp has always been super easy.

As I mentioned, look for something that is blocking the ramp from sitting down more. I honestly cannot recall if mine sits on the snakepit or not, I can look when I get home. In the meantime, post some pics and maybe something will pop out.

#232 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Question for those that have shopped it: the DUFF targets don't have much foam backing behind them. So i added some. Now I'm thinking they should go without the foam, as the captive ball doesn't get hit too hard and the foam may impede the switch contact.
Thoughts?
I do t want to get it all back together and then change my mind. Pita to get to.

Mine all have normal foam. If you gap them right, there is no issue.

#233 9 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I tried to push the ramp down and still not much luck. I'm finding the top of the G seems much steeper but the circle at the end of the snakepit is underneath it and it can't really be lowered.
I just seem to have alot more trouble getting the ball up the ramp that I used to have. The R ramp is super easy to hit.
Perhaps I will post some pictures and see if anyone has any other suggestions to drop this down a bit.

Looked at mine last night. The g ramp does sit on the snake pit. Is your ramp on top of the metal bracket that is on the left side of the game, or is it secured underneath it (as it is supposed to be)? I can snap a pic later when I am home for reference. If it is sitting on top of the bracket, it will kick it up so that it causes clearance issues.

#238 9 years ago

Ramp keeps it in place. No protector needed there really. The ball never really gets enough speed behind it to do any damage.

#245 9 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Great question... is this really needed?
I'm considering if I remove it that may help with my G ramp being propped up as high.

Yeah, it is needed, especially for the initial shot around the bowl. It WILL fly out (or at least mine will, you can see where the ball hits the top.)

#255 9 years ago
Quoted from 2RustyBalls:

Anyone here get their hands on these ramps?
ebay.com link » New Data East Guns n Roses Pinball Ramps G And R Ramps New Rare

Way expensive, but that does appear to be a brand new fully populated R ramp. Not exactly an easy thing to come across.

My R ramp has a crack on the left side, and that is it. These used to go for 60 bucks or so, but just like everything related to GnR have rocketed in price. I have a used but extremely nice shape (no cracks or breaks) R ramp. Like Neo, I should put on ebay for about 500 and see what happens

#262 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So thought I'd post these questions here. First though, loving this GNR since being shopped. What a spectacular rule set and pin. Just super cool. Now on to some tweaks I thought you members may be able to help with:
1. Once in awhile, the vuk will send the ball up to the shooter lane wireform, but it hangs up on the left side of the shooter lane wire form. I have to pull glass and Nudge it. Quite annoying. I tried to swivel the vuk wire form a bit with no success.
2. Occassionally the laser kickback will not kick the ball very hard. It's like it makes half an effort to kick. All is tight under the apron and the plunger moves freely, etc. Also the wiring looks good to the lugs. Wondering if this is switch related?
3. Anyway to make the pops more powerful? I haven't cleaned the switches on them, and that would probably help a great deal. I know DE pops aren't like Williams. Thoughts?
Thanks

1. Is it catching on an edge of a piece of metal? Maybe a quick filing?

2. Make sure the kickback is hitting the ball dead center. Also check the lugs to make sure you have a good solid connection with the wires, and not just a few strands.

3. DE pops do take a little bit more work to get them to perform better, and they seem to lose adjustment quicker. Clean the switches, and get those things as close together as possible. Mine work very well, but it was a PITA to get the switches adjusted. You may want to buy different spoons, and see if a different style works better. I did this on a buddy's BBB to get his pops working, and it did wonders. (Went with a shallower spoon, I think it was DE ones, but honestly cannot remember.)

1 month later
#268 9 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Do all DE games ride as high in the cabinet - and off the floor - as GnR? Can't lift playfield all the way up in my low ceiling basement. No problem with Stern and Williams games.

You can always switch to shorter legs. I had to do this with my fh that is kept at my grandmas.

#273 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Anyone know what the backstage pass light does?

It blinks, that's about it. I thought it was tied into the ball saver, but nope. I think that insert and the skull on the right loop were never fully fleshed out in the rules

#276 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I thought it was a ball saver flasher too, but it comes on at weird times and I can't find a pattern to it.
Anyone else have any clue?

Possibly timed to the modes?

#280 9 years ago
Quoted from Nelly:

Not sure if this is against the rules but, figured I'd share with you guys. I have a complete set of NOS playfield decals up for auction. These are originals from the late 90's. NOT the wrong colored repros that are available today. Please check them out if you are interested.
ebay.com link » Like

Not sure why you think the repros are wrong. My snake ramp repro decal that came with my new ramp was spot on, as were the drop target decals. I can't comment on the others as they are in great shape

2 weeks later
#288 9 years ago
Quoted from pinballYeti:

About 5% of the time my GNR will kick two balls into the shooter lane at ball start. Anyone else seen this? I'm not sure if the coil is firing twice, I think it does. Flaky trough switch maybe? I guess to debug I'll take the apron off and watch for it to happen...

You have a flakey switch somewhere in your ball trough.

1 week later
#310 9 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

on clean games with flipper mechs that work right and rebuilt, should be no problems. Only problems i've ever heard about, are the auto kick problems from powdercoated wire tubes.

Going to have to agree with Neo on this. I've never had issues on my game with the g ramp shot. Yes, the ramp is steep and can be a difficult shot, but that is the design of the game.

#314 9 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

My GNR have all black wire rails... which I like better than chrome look.
I do occasionally get balls stacked in shooter lane during MB. I've shortened the wire length on coil to make it stronger, this helped and pitch of game/playfield is spot on.
Anyone know of a stronger coil option?

Kerry,

There was one made a few years ago for this. I believe it was pinball life or pinball resource

3 weeks later
#330 9 years ago
Quoted from vdojaq:

Same with mine, the left one was broken. The Pinball Life replacements work very well. I replaced them all and it just looks much better.

Guess I was lucky, as mine weren't broken and are still in good shape.

1 week later
#337 9 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

When my G&R is in attract mode it says that the next game from Data East is Carousel. Does this happen with anyone else's and what is this mystery game?

IMGP4065.JPG 178 KB

Mine does it. Obviously the game was never built.

#345 9 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Just wondering if others who have installed the back lit up banner like this (as I have it installed as well) notice that you really don't see the full Guns n Roses logo when standing in playing position. It looks like it's a bit too high to see the full lettering while actually playing.

Anybody have pics of how they installed the lights they used behind the sign?

#348 9 years ago

Thank you! I have two cold cathode tubes I've been trying to figure out how to mount.

6 months later
#372 8 years ago

So evidently Slash and Axl made up. Here is hoping for a reunion tour happening!

REALLY hoping they make a call for GnR pins to be backstage if the tour does happen like what happened years ago when C.D. was released.

#374 8 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

Although I would really like to see it, I think it is doubtful. Slash is all about live performances, and I think it is pretty safe to say that Axl is a studio musician at this point. He will spend years massaging an album, while Slash is more prone to just recording a live session.

Well neither would confirm or deny it happening, but I will wait and see.

Honestly never expected them to make up. What's next? Danzig re-joining The Misfits??

#377 8 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I was thinking about putting mini spot light looking cans in the back area, shining down on the back of the playfield. Linked directly to the mode lights. As you light a mode, it will light the same colored spotlight can in the back as well. As you get more and more modes done. More cans would be lit, and when you have them all, you are ready to do the concert (riot).

That could be interesting. Take pics!

I still need to light my pinbits backboard mod from the back, but haven't been able to figure out a good way to do so yet.

2 months later
#388 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Any tips on installing the green LED strip under the snake? Mine is about to arrive and its the first thing I want to do! Any help would be appreciated.

I used a cold cathode tube:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finished-my-gnr-mod

#390 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Interesting - it looks like you put the light within the snake itself by opening it. I was thinking of just putting a sticky LED strip underneath or somewhere. Wasn't sure though how to power it on. I know dumb question but where does that exactly attach to? Prob alligator clips somewhere no and would I have to remove anything besides the glass to access?? Thinking just take glass off, sticky on in some location (any sugg would be appreciated) and then attach to bottom of the table underneath but where....

All the snakes were hollow molded plastic, except the protos, which were rubber snakes cut to fit. (not sure what you mean by 'opening' the snake.)

I ran the wiring through the harness and to an unused connector near the coin door and tapped it for 12v.

1 week later
#394 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

GnR owners - what color flipper rubbers do you use? Mine has black and I kind of like it - wasn't expecting to.....
also - any crazy brand or are they all the same?

Red. I hate black rubber with a passion

#396 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

any ones in particular or just standard $1 ones?

I just use regular ol rubber. Haven't moved on to the newer style rings

2 weeks later
#410 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - all of a sudden, the gate that allows the ball to fall into the snake pit (on the yellow G ramp) does not go down after it should. This results in snake pit shots that aren't intended. Suggestions on how to fix so it goes back down when needed (besides manually pushing it down)?

Realign the arm from the door to the coil so it is straight. If it is not the door will bind and not close

#412 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

thanks - if you have a pic of the arm let me know. I see the coil and the black rod but didn't see an arm on the blue door that goes up and down itself. Might just be a mix of words though.

Should just be that black rod.

#415 8 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Still struggling with this. It seems to go down by itself during gameplay but not consistently. Not sure why. The black rod is aligned and when I test it out by pushing it, the gate opens and closes fine. Am I not understanding your suggestion correctly?

It has to be pretty damn straight on with the coil so it doesn't drag. The weight of the trapdoor is what causes it to fall down, so any sort of friction due to misalignment causes it to stick

1 month later
#435 8 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

On mine the hinges of the G-ramp door touch the wireframe below, so after it opens it gets stuck in the up position. It sounds like yours is doing that but to a lesser degree. My fix is to put in a spacer to lift the G-ramp just enough so the trap door has plenty of clearance to go back down without resistance. I have a replacement ramp that I hope will resolve the issue, just haven't got around to installing it.

On mine I was lucky enough to have enough wiggle room to not have to spacer the ramp, have the hinge and the spacer on the nut not touch the wire form. You may just have to notch the washer to clear the wireform. Be warned that the space available for spacers is tight, because if it is too big, the ramp will hit the glass.

#440 8 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

This was my first Pinball and I'd rather sell my left nut than this machine. I'd like to improve it somewhat as I've done LED's/Cliffy/Red DMD
Has anyone added a speaker kit & would this be the one to add?
ebay.com link » Pinball Pro Speaker Kit For Data East Guns N Roses Tommy Pinball Machine

Just do an external sub. It sounds great

1 month later
#475 8 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

Is the mounting on this different than Stern pins? My GnR is for sale, but I would like to try it with my Metallica CDMD before it sells.

They said it would require a small or on their page (or in the email)

#482 8 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

What are the must have mods?

Cliffy axl hole protector, g ramp protectors. Pinbits backboard mod is also cool.

#502 8 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Guns and Roses stud removal. DMD stud so Color DMD will fit.
Not near a GNR and can't find pictures. Is it necessary to cut this with a dremel. How is the stud held in with a t-nut? Could it be removed or unscrewed? If not tips or tricks to do this without a dremel ?
Thank You

In all seriousness....buy the dremel. They are amazing tools and come in very handy with pinball machine ownership!

#513 8 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Yep...here's a picture that shows the problem. Major bummer.
Chris and I are working on a simple solution that should provide a fit-and-finish consistent with the B/W platforms that also have a door.
For now, I've removed the 1/4" spacer...replacing it with a 1/8" nut. This allows you to remove the panel without damaging the controller board or ribbon connector.

IMG_9893_(resized).jpeg

Couldn't a quick date with a router or jig saw take off enough material from the light board to make it open? How much space is needed? Hard to tell from the pic.

#519 8 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Not a fan of hacking the light board. I worked with Chris @ ColorDMD to solve the problem properly (by just adding 4 new, well placed holes). Fits perfectly now Here's a pic...

IMG_9908_(resized).JPG

Can you share pics of the new holes and some dimensions of where they were added?

#521 8 years ago

Thank you!

3 months later
#562 7 years ago

Possibly a R ramp

4 months later
#634 7 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Anyone ever figure out where the "Snake Jackpot" plastic from Pinbits is supposed to get installed?

There is no spot.

1 month later
#642 7 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Anyone that has LED'd their game, I'm looking for ideas. Please share a photo of color schemes you've done. Thanks!

Cool white for plastics that are mostly blue/green/black/white, warm white for yellow/red/orange plastics. Color match the inserts, except cool white for yellow , warm white (or cool white P, whatever you like) for clear inserts.

It's all personal of course. Some people like to put colors underneath the plastics, some don't.

2 weeks later
#644 7 years ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

I'm babysitting my buddies GnR for him while he's renovating his basement. Thought I'd do a favour for him and shop it out. Going to order a bunch of competition rings from Titan. Is the list in the manual accurate?
Any recommendations for anything else. Going to LED it for him as well.

I think the manual is accurate, but I honestly cannot recall. You can always verify as you pull the old rubbers off, write down the size and where it went.

3 months later
#677 6 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

I am having trouble with my snake pit trap door not lifting up during game play when it is supposed to engage so the ball can drop down into snake pit ramp. When I test it in the "cycling coils" diagnostics menu, it works. I'm wondering if the coil is failing or what else could be the issue.

I'd check the switch on the ramp first. If it isn't registering, that trap door won't open

#680 6 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Shouldn't the trap door trigger when the multi ball is lit or Snake pit is triggered before even the ball hitting the ramp?

Nope. If it opened when multiball was lit and stayed constantly open it would burn up coils like crazy

#682 6 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Now comes the silly question, but how do I test the ramp switch?

Go into switch test, take glass off game, run a ball through the ramp. OR take glass off, start a game, run a ball through the ramp. If the switch doesn't register in the test OR doesn't score in the game, you have a bad switch.

#684 6 years ago

No diode needed on the pops, they are tied into gi and not the lamp matrix.

#688 6 years ago
Quoted from Draegermeister:

I've had my GNR since 1998, but it never had a topper. I just picked one up, and I was wondering the specs to drill it in. Anyone have the proper dimensions?

Just use the existing holes?

#692 6 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Also wondering if anyone has recommendations on left G ramp and seems like ever since I redid some things on playfield it's harder to get the ball up the left G ramp. I have tried everything to make sure the entrance grade is low but nothing appears grossly off

That ramp is super steep and has always been a hard shot. Agree about a possible flipper rebuild

#712 6 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Anyone have an issue with the G ramp trap door sticking in the up position? I can't really see where it's binding. Most parts there are not usually available from common sellers.
On note related to the tour: first time was 88 when they opened for Maiden then in 2012 (basically just Axl), now taking my daughter and my wife to see this tour in August.

Make sure the plunger is entering the coil straight. More often than not it isn't straight and binds.

#716 6 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Is this a hot mod or stupid mod?

To each their own! If you like it, that is all that matters.

1 month later
#729 6 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Hoping to pick one of these up. But the guy wants 10,500 Canadian. It's signed by slash and has colour dmd and topper. Couple other upgrades as well. A bit steep. But I want it so bad ! A bit pricey tho?

Yeah, that's pretty damn high. Maybe if the game was absolutely perfect..

2 months later
#771 6 years ago

Someone was making a topper at one point, but it was different than the original. I think some of the normal parts suppliers had em

1 month later
#780 6 years ago

Ones proto, one is production. Add a band member is proto I think. (But it's late, so could be wrong !)

1 week later
#787 6 years ago

Depending on what revision you want, the shooter lane wireform will go for about 600 on its own.

1 week later
#794 6 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

Can someone take a couple photos of the snake pit coil for me? Mine was working fine but i had to take it apart to get that cliffy in there (the biggest pain in the ass cliffy ive seen) and after i put everything back the pit wont lift now so i had to take it apart again. Not sure if i put the coil back right. Switches are working btw
Thanks

It's a tight spot to get a pic, but the lugs should be facing right (when looking at the game from the players position) and closer to the front of the game, not the back.

The trapdoor can be tricky, as everything needs to be straight as an arrow to work. If it isn't, the trapdoor won't go up, and if it is up, won't fall down as it relies on the weight of the door and gravity to drop.

Coil is confirmed to fire correct?

#796 6 years ago
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:

yea I guess the photo was more to make sure I had that little spring in the right spot and what the arm looks like off the coil. As I had to take the coil/ arm off and apart to get that cliffy on. but now I have it off again lol. Gonna take a while to get it just right. power is going to the coil but nothing is moving.
thanks for the response

There shouldn't be a spring there at all.

#798 6 years ago

I am working, but post a pic of what you have and I can tell ya what is right and wrong

#800 6 years ago

That spring is a hack. Normally the trap door comes down due to the weight of the door, no spring used. I would also be super worried about that spring shorting out your coil.

4 weeks later
#807 6 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I'm currently having my cabinet and backbox restored, and I figure I might as well do the siderails, lockdown bar and hinges while I'm at it. What color do you guys think looks best on this game? Should I go with a glossy black, or something a bit more exotic?

Flat black, maybe chrome? I'm not a big fan of the powdercoated stuff with very few exceptions.

4 months later
#847 6 years ago

There were multiple attempts by DE to fix the ramp issue. (Really, it just needs an exit switch so the game doesn't just load up the ramp.). 3 different types of ramps: 1st version was black. Second version was chrome. Third version was chrome, and also required a different VUK, as the new launch ramp fed into the right loop and went under th r ramp.

There was also a fix to lower one of the mounting holes in the back panel (first two versions only), stronger coil, etc...

3 months later
#868 5 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

+1 on that, G&R and LAH are great but they aren't really there for any reason, on TAF they are "the power" even on Godzilla they are his radioactive breath

Sure they are. Magnets are simulating a pit at a GnR show.

1 week later
#873 5 years ago
Quoted from DrMark12PA:

Is there a way to test the magnets on the game to make sure they are working?

It's in the test menu.

1 week later
#901 5 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Since I installed a new axl cliffy, 90 percent of the kickouts go sdtm anybody else have this issue and know how to mitigate it?? thanks you in advance.

Loosen the kick out and adjust. Tighten and test.

1 month later
#905 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I'm working on someone else's G&R. It rules.
Does anyone have a bulb list? I'd like to do an LED conversion but get comets. Also, anybody done anything cool with titans?

Just count the sockets, and make your own list. Takes about 30 mins.

I converted my flipper rubbers to titans, and will do the rest when the game is shopped next.

#923 5 years ago

When you are in the magnet test, you will hear them working. They have a very specific sound.

For those with the launch issue, have you checked IMDb.org? There is a service bulletin that you may need to do.

#930 5 years ago

Manuals will list coil sleeve size, and how to get through the menu. If you haven't got a manual, get one. They are very useful tools.

#932 5 years ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

I have just got my second G&R and I wonder if someone could answer a question for me.
Both games had the later wireforms on but on my previous G&R when you launched the ball it would stop at the top and roll thorough the roll overs to the pops but on my new one it fires all the way round to the upper flipper, which is correct?

Both. The style that feeds the upper flipper is Rev 3, the chrome style launch ramp that feeds the rollovers is Rv 2.

#934 5 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’ve had this machine for 10 years and did not know that. Is there one that’s preferred or one that is more common?
Mine feeds the pop bumpers.

I like the rev 1 and rev 2, others like rev 3. It's all up to you.

I think that rev 2 is the most common, with the original (rev 1) in the middle and rev 3 being least common, but I have no proof.

#936 5 years ago
Quoted from Nexyss:

I like revision one, but they can be a pain to get and keep the adjustment to work reliably. The guy I bought mine from set it perfect. I want to set the pitch of my machine steeper, but it breaks the adjustment, and I don’t want to lose what I have now. Lol

I have rev 2, and have been very lucky. Only time it ever jammed was at PAGG years ago, and it only happened once. Hasn't happened ever again. Mine hasn't been drilled for the service update either.

3 months later
#975 5 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

Amazing. Will this prevent more than one ball from entering the shooter lane and getting stuck ?

Probably not. The game would need a switch at the top of the ball launch habitrail letting the game know the ball cleared, and is ok to launch another ball. Design flaw.

2 weeks later
#1010 5 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

Yes sir ... 100 operational. I figured a switch was not registering, but up/down the ramp they are perfect.

Did you test the switch in the bowl (on the green ramp) with a ball or a finger? That is the switch that advances, not another switch.

2 months later
#1136 5 years ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

While at techs today checking on game, we wondered if these posts are supposed to be like this, they are Very hard plastic, and solid and they do not slide off a post, they are like a bushing or something.. wondering if these are supposed to be here or if someone made them at some time, I would have guessed regular metal posts that took a rubber.. Can anybody please confirm if these are correct, or what should be there, thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Cliffs post rubbers. Mine originally were black crap rubber.

#1138 5 years ago
Quoted from jake35:

Does anyone know what fuse is linked to the lights under the playfield, where the "Guns" and "Roses" inserts are lit? All mine went out including the one that lights up when the magnets come on. I installed a pinsound board a couple nights ago and I think I missed a pin on the ribbon cable that came from the power board and I believe that may have been what blew the fuse. The game plays fine otherwise including the sound etc.

Check your manual, it will tell you.

#1143 5 years ago
Quoted from jake35:

Thanks, looks like f1 and f2. They checked out fine so must be something else.

Start testing the transistors for the lights.

#1147 5 years ago
Quoted from Foraree34:

Looking for a reworked magnet board, looks like Great lakes Modular is a dead end now, per other pinside theads and unanswered emails....
What are my other options or suggestions as I keep blowing magnet fuses

Rebuild the original board?

1 month later
#1216 4 years ago
Quoted from billrz:

My left flipper just started sticking up and staying up, it goes down if I turn off the machine.. any body else have this issue and maybe a solution? I’ve not moved the machine or anything.
[quoted image]

Resolder the connections on the coil to start, those are pretty bad.

Second, the eos switch isn't the issue. Usually on DE games the flipper energizing and not dropping until you turn off the game is caused by a bad diode. Replace diode, redo the connections on that coil, and report back.

2 weeks later
1 month later
#1371 4 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Nope. I may be able to glue it so I can play it, but I still have the issue of the door on that ramp not opening and closing.

It's a simple mech, but can bind easily. It took me a few days to get mine ironed out. Biggest issue is making sure the plunger is dead on straight, and the nut and washer don't hit the habit trail below it.

Reach out if you want a second set of eyes on it.

#1377 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

What is the door hitting? I cant tell from that side, maybe take one from the other angle and show what its hitting?
I seemed to had this issue for a minute and needed to move/adjust something

From.the pics, I am guessing it's the locknut and washer, and it's hitting the black habit trail.

#1379 4 years ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

yep and adjusting that got me into a situation where I destroyed my original ramp (after spending hours cliffy-ing it up)
I'm leaving for CAX tomorrow, so I will deal with it some time after I get back.
does someone sell the slash sticker?

I am in sac, and have offered to help.I got mine working great, I can assist if needed.

#1383 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

To avoid breaking it of course, maybe remove the wire form & ramp from the game completely so you can bend the wireform separately from any attachment to the ramp. The ramp should have zero tweeking needed whatsoever, it will be the surrounding parts
I can take pics of mine working when I get home later and maybe you can compare

Shouldn't have to tweak any of the ramp parts. You are right about the actual ramp not needing tweaking. For mine it was the washer needed to be trimmed slightly, and the plunger needs to be dead nuts straight. Any sort of friction between the plunger and coil sleeve means a hangup

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