All,

Anyone know anybody who has these two ramps "G" and "R" in stock?

Thanks

Bob

have you tried Pinball Life? shows they have both ramps in stock.

Send me an email Bob …. I swapped my OEM “R” out a few years ago and still have it - It’s not perfect but it works - I’m sure we can work something out

Mike

Just picked up a reproduction topper from Pinballcenter and topper brackets from Marco. The topper doesn’t come pre-drilled with 4 holes to attach to the brackets, so I’m going to do that. Just curious, does the original topper attach to the brackets with rivets or small screws? Can someone snap a couple closeups of both sides? Thanks

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Rivets.

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Amy have 6-32 pan head screw on all 4 on the header

Perfect thanks!

Well I’m leaving the club and it’s been a great experience. So many owners have been helpful during ownership. Thank you. This club helped me get the game to the level it’s at.

Had the game since 2013 and made improvements since the day I got it. Installed pretty much everything you could on this game. Last mod was going to be a shaker. I had alot of fun customizing it.

Someone once posted it was an LE of its day and I agree .Sure it’s not as fancy as my JJP GNR but it’s a fun game and such a cool work of art.

Sold the original topper for crazy money as I never liked it. Laseriffic one was much improved.

I remember when my G ramp broke . At one time they were impossible to find . I ended up paying a crazy amount for one so I could play my game again.
After that I made sure I bought spares of both ramps from feeplay 40.

Then I fought the magnet board issue which was resolved by the homepin board and installed .27 ufd capacitor.

Another challenge was the shooter lane . Balls not making it up the ramp .I followed the service bulletins ,#63 and #64 bottomed out leg levelers , and that fixed the problem.
Didn’t have to install a stronger shooter coil.

Pinball life flipper upgrade is well worth it.

One of the best mods was the color dmd. Pinsound and the COR mirror back glass were major improvements .

Game was rock solid during my ownership. Only issues during ownership were potentiometer volume control needed replaced and switch adjustment.

The broken G ramp was my fault when playfield slipped off the rails.

Enjoy your games GNR owners. “Start rocking”

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☹️☹️☹️

I have owned two G&R first one I had for 18 years then sold it and after that I missed it so got it again and did a full restore too this one I don't think I would ever sell it again lol great game all around

Any one tryed a Indiana Jones Gun Handler, and adapt it to the GnR machine? Is impossible to find an original gun, and the ones that show up, are a stupid price..

I need a gun handle too. I would pay a stupid price if a nice one came up.

I will update the version of indiana jones, just for reference, and i think will look amazing.

Hi was wondering if anyone has a Nos Playfield? would like to know the measurements of the playfield plywood
dimensions Length and width please. for a virtual pinball project. thanks appreciate it

Is worth to change to the last V3.0 of game/display/sound roms?
Thanks

What kind of gun is that supposed to be (looking for handle grips, but I need to know the gun type). Also, I need a chrome trigger.
Please link me to some products! Thanks!

If you go back to post #2285 you'll see a couple links and picts of what I think are great looking handles.

I was looking to swap mine for maybe one of these. I haven't confirmed they'll fit, however I believe I saw and read here on Pinside where a guy did use the wood one. I also think he had to do some trimming on it.

https://www.altamontco.com/pistol-grips/ruger/newvaquero/

ebay.com link: New Model Vaquero Scroll Checkered Brown For Ruger Frames NICE

Thanks for the leads and tips! After contacting a few Pinsiders, I decided on a pair (not an easy choice, since there are many!) of grips from Rio Grande.
Here is what I ordered: "Fits Ruger New Model Vaquero and All Ruger S-A Models with Ruger XR3 Grip Frame / Viper grips."
As you can see from my pics, there will have to be some modifications made. These grips are not cheap and I cringe at the thought of damaging these to the point that I can't use them. I am thinking about using a Dremel to cut off the excess part of the handle (at the top, of course) and filling the inside of the handle with Bondo, or some other epoxy, so that I can attach the screws on the inside. I am also thinking of drilling into the gun handles (cringe) and using the factory holes in the grips, instead of drilling holes into the new grips. If I use the existing holes in the gun handles, I will have to drill the new grips, for the screw that holds the assembly together and find something to fill-in the factory holes. Either way, this is not something that I am looking forward to.
BTW, Chris Royalty sent me a chrome trigger, so no need for that now.
Anyone care to comment?
Next, I have some technical questions for the next post.

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So, after 10 years, I am finally getting around to getting my re-import GNR up and running. In the past 10 years, I have:
-stripped the playfield and thoroughly cleaned it and the inside of the cabinet
-replaced several bad hacks, burned-up coils, broken switches
-re-wired several bad places in the harness
-replaced all of the broken plastics and warped plastic assemblies (Snake, G and R ramps, flasher domes, etc.)
-put in all new electronics (most of the boards were missing), except for sound board: Rottendog power, CPU, PPB, DMD, etc.
-put in a Pinball Pro Speaker system.
-sent gun handles to Chris Royalty for the chrome treatment
-wrapped in shrink wrap and put in a pinball cocoon until now. I didn't even bother powering up the machine before I wrapped it up (long story).
Last Monday, I powered up the machine, since I was inspired by the long-awaited return of my freshly chromed gun handles (COVID was to blame for the years it took to get them back).
Here is what is going on with the machine, that I can't figure out:
The sound doesn't work at all, but I can hear the bump from the amplifiers kicking on/off with the power switch activation. I've ordered a rebuild kit and will hand that off to a trusted source, since I am no electrical engineer or electrician! I get by with using a burned stick to do my soldering! Joke--LOL!
I ohmed all of the coils, I checked all of the test points on all of the boards, and I went through the Diagnostics to check switches, flashers and coils.
I fired up the machine and started playing a game. I played a few games to find bad switches and other funky stuff. I didn't notice until playing, that the top blade of the upper left slingshot was broken off. I fixed that, changed a few roller switches and the ball eject switch and made some switch adjustments. I had a bad lamp assembly that I also replaced. Came back this morning, to finish up and decided to fire up the machine for another game. This time, the ball would not load into the eject chamber. To make matters worse, the ball launch is now showing an error code of: Auto lauch malfunction.
I went back and checked everything that I had just worked on, since most everything was working up to this point.
What is the sequence of events after pressing Start? How does the machine know to put a ball from the trough into the upkick chamber? Let's start here.

Thanks to Lloyd (LTG) and Dr. Pinball Romania!
Follow-up:
Found bad middle leg on last roll over switch in trough; the leg that the two green wires attach to. The leg was very loose, probably from having the playfield smash it a few times (my guess).
Changed that switch and the shooter lane switch (as a precaution; especially since the game is a re-import and was probably near the end of its service life anyway).
Game is now working. After soundboard is repaired, I will be rockin and rollin again!

pinsound....just say`in.....

Yes! Go pinsound and get the DE power boost harness. What an improvement.
Have DE and JJP Guns. The pinsound add on drives our 6 yr old to DE as well due to the sound upgrade(likes the sing along), improves the DE one dramatically!

Pinball center topper installed with rivets. I’m happy with how it turned out and for the fraction of the cost of an original topper. I’ve owned this game for 20 years, I sold the original topper years ago as the ceiling was too low to install it. We just moved into our new house with high ceilings and it’s nice to be able to install toppers on my games.

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Pinball center topper installed with rivets. Happy with how it turned out. I’ve owned this game for 20 years and finally have room in the new house for toppers.
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Looks great I like my with the toppers on looks way better ,great job

The GNR I have has a headphone kit installed, not sure if this was a factory fit. I was disconnected when o got the pin and I have just reconnected it. The volume is very low with headphones plugged in and the up and down volume buttons do nothing.
When headphones plugged in, it does cut off the speaker. A couple of questions

1. Is this factory fitted
2. Any ideas why sound is low
3. Any idea why button don't work

Any help will be greatly appreciated

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Yes, it's factory, and pretty rare, only being an option on FOREIGN (non-US) domestic market games, and only 100 made.

I'm guessing it needs the caps replaced, or has a wonky connector.

Also, as the exterior control has two jacks, make sure someone didn't break off a male headphone jack in one, as it would cause issues; I'm guessing these were prone to damage when they came out on location, hence why it was unplugged, and they only made 100.

Just a heads up if anyone is interested. I am doing another run of both the G and the R ramp for DE Guns n' Roses right now. Just planning on doing enough with a couple extra sets to cover current wait list requests. Both ramps are made with a thicker plastic than the original. G ramp includes the entrance flap and the exit bracket. Trap door assembly for the G ramp will need to be transferred from the old ramp to the new ramp. No decals for the G ramp included. G ramp is $155. The R ramp is basically a complete reproduction including the entrance flap, exit bracket, switch bracket and new clear cover. R ramp is $125

Plus shipping.

Let me know if you are interested.

Still looking for a replacement gun shooter if anyone would be so kind as to sell me their spare. Thanks.

Finally dug out the DE GNR poster to get framed, and realized I had an extra.

Anybody need one and have anything DE GNR-ish to trade? (This is the 23 x 29 poster, not the flyer.)

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Another poster question. Per the release below, DE intended to distribute a signed poster inside each game.

Anybody have any info on this? I assume it never happened, as I’ve never seen a 24x36 poster for the DE GNR (and certainly never heard of Slash signing 3,000 of them.)

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I am not sure if that ever happen but I do have that poster when I got my game so I would guess most people keeped the posters too resell

Hello Everyone,

I'm checking to see if there is enough interest to run another Data East opto board batch for 2023.

Details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/interest-check-data-east-ball-trough-opto-board-

Thanks.

I’m sure there will be plenty interest Davi. J

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did you get these to fit?

I found my original handles, so I installed those. My plan is to eventually use the new handles, but that will require drilling a new hold into the gun base. With the condition of the pot metal used for the gun handles, I may wind up biting off more than I can chew! If I do install these, I will put out a post.

Hello,

I am trying to help troubleshoot some magnet related issues on a friends GNR. The game will often blow the fuse for the magnets and at times it seems like it pulses all of them at once (which I don't think is correct). We've tried the new Homepin magnet board, I've applied the updates to his original magnet board to add the extra capacitor, diode, and 10K resistor to make it the -01 version. From the schematic on that it looks like that update automatically clears the latch for the magnets on power up.

What I am trying to do now is verify all the connections for the magnet board. Since the history of the game is unknown I can't assume any of it is correct.

We have the original manual but some parts are lacking like the end to end connection of the magnet board. All that I can see for that is that three of the data lines probably go to pins 7, 8, and 9 on CN3. What I don't see is which line goes to the CLK line on the magnet board and which line (if used) goes to the reset/clr line on that magnet board. If anyone can confirm how that is connected and even pictures of the connector with wire color codes on the magnet board that would help. I'm at the point now where I have the MPU board and am going to pull the PIA and other components that drive the magnet control board to test. also want to have him double check all the wiring, etc.

Now to find out which is best!!
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Hate too say but the DE GNR I love my and when I did a full inside and out restore too her even better then new she's a keeper enjoy

Homepin board for sure with C-4 cap installed. I changed all 3 magnets & crappy fuse holder. Been working for 3 yrs.

Where did that neon come from?

We both know D/E is the best.

Nothing like the black mirrors.

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Yes for sure that looks sick with the black mirrors nice bud

I have Pinsound+, and a cherry dmd. You guys running color dmd and pinsound, do you have to use alternative power supply? Mine is factory driver board but I have the component pinsound recommended to avoid audio cutting out. I didn't want to overload the power board.

I have had no issues running color DMD & pinsound with factory boards, no alternate power supply.

Yea I like em. Very heavy in weight black stainless, pinballdecals.com (Joey). I think with shipping they were $300. Well worth the look though. J

Did the gun in textured black since I have an extra chrome setup. I don’t think chrome goes with the game. My opinion only.

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