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One question for the folks that screwed the Slash figure to the lane guides:
what types of screws did you use? I´m afraid to break Slash´s heel if I use too big ones.....
(Topic ID: 57299)
Linked Games
Guns N' Roses
Data East, 1994
Topic Gallery
Mckeesport, PA
2 weeks later
just picked up a GnR for 1k with a very nice playfield and cabinet. he had a jumper bypassing the f1 fuse on the psb and the game was functional . which brand of replacement board recommended? this one is fried pretty good behind fuses f1 and f2. but everything else on it is snazzy. no topper though...
Quoted from a_derelict:just picked up a GnR for 1k with a very nice playfield and cabinet. he had a jumper bypassing the f1 fuse on the psb and the game was functional . which brand of replacement board recommended? this one is fried pretty good behind fuses f1 and f2. but everything else on it is snazzy. no topper though...
Post some pics of the board, it's probably repairable
Quoted from dsuperbee:Post some pics of the board, it's probably repairable
it looks like someone spliced and soldered a violet/brown to psb, and a green/yellow to psb right around the base of the relay. also, there isn't anything plugged into the molex connection adjacent to the relay.
Any ideas where the violet, brown, yellow and green wires fitted onto the board originally?
PSBphoto.JPGQuoted from a_derelict:it looks like someone spliced and soldered a violet/brown to psb, and a green/yellow to psb right around the base of the relay. also, there isn't anything plugged into the molex connection adjacent to the relay.
Any ideas where the violet, brown, yellow and green wires fitted onto the board originally?PSBphoto.JPG 167 KB
I'm currently not home, so cannot check my game. But if you have not already done so, pick up (or download) a copy of the manual. It should tell you everything you need to know.
Quoted from a_derelict:it looks like someone spliced and soldered a violet/brown to psb, and a green/yellow to psb right around the base of the relay. also, there isn't anything plugged into the molex connection adjacent to the relay.
Any ideas where the violet, brown, yellow and green wires fitted onto the board originally?
Those 2 wires they've soldered to the board are bypassing that header (CN8) - assuming it's because it's burnt and crispy on either/both sides of the board. That CN8 is for the GI/backbox/coindoor.
CN8 pins 1-4 should be Brown, Yellow, Green, Violet. Pin 5 is key. 6-9 are White-Brown, White-Yellow, White-Green, White-Violet. The 1-4 pins are actually all sourced from one trace, and 6-9 are all sourced from another single trace, that's why you see just the 2 wires that they've hacked onto the board. Follow those 2 wires back off the PS board and you should find those 2 groups of 4 original wires.
The white-xxxxx wires from CN8 pins 6-9 go to connector J5 on the PPB board - since your CN8 header was toasted, you'll likely see J5 on the PPB with the same issue. At the very least, repin the CN8 and J5, and both of their connectors as well.
Quoted from Blackjacker:Those 2 wires they've soldered to the board are bypassing that header (CN8) - assuming it's because it's burnt and crispy on either/both sides of the board. That CN8 is for the GI/backbox/coindoor.
CN8 pins 1-4 should be Brown, Yellow, Green, Violet. Pin 5 is key. 6-9 are White-Brown, White-Yellow, White-Green, White-Violet. The 1-4 pins are actually all sourced from one trace, and 6-9 are all sourced from another single trace, that's why you see just the 2 wires that they've hacked onto the board. Follow those 2 wires back off the PS board and you should find those 2 groups of 4 original wires.
The white-xxxxx wires from CN8 pins 6-9 go to connector J5 on the PPB board - since your CN8 header was toasted, you'll likely see J5 on the PPB with the same issue. At the very least, repin the CN8 and J5, and both of their connectors as well.
thanks I removed it and I see how it was gerry rigged now. im replacing the board and connector. thanks
Toronto, ON
I have read a lot of stories about people modifying flipper and shooter coils to make them stronger. I found a simple adjustment in the menu to increase coil pulse just like on newer Sterns did the trick. The game plays so much better, and the ball flies up the ramps now. Even backhand from both sides. There is also a noticeable difference in magnet action during multiball.
Quoted from o-din:I have read a lot of stories about people modifying flipper and shooter coils to make them stronger. I found a simple adjustment in the menu to increase coil pulse just like on newer Sterns did the trick. The game plays so much better, and the ball flies up the ramps now. Even backhand from both sides. There is also a noticeable difference in magnet action during multiball.
I would personally rather just put in a stronger shooter lane coil and be done with it. I always worry that increasing the coil impulse to everything increases the risk for broken plastics and such.
Nothing wrong with giving it a try. I considered broken plastics and such, but the game just plays so much better that I can't go back.
1 month later
hi mates!
i'm writing from portugal 
I have some nice colection of pinball,and my last re-build was this amazing machine, yes the GNR.
Unfortunately i have two issues, one is the launch problem, new coil in but, sometimes the ball just stays on the way and the machine stays there trying to launch the ball, new components on the power board and driver board, and sometimes just fail.
The other problem this is more important for me, at the end of the game, the nice girl shows up and if the match feature it's the same as her tits 
the machine dont give me credit, the knocker do is job but no credit 
I have tryied the adjustments, but to be honest if it was WW or Bally i domain it totally(all my other 20 pinball are ww/bally),
Thank you all
Keep playing pinball 
regards
Quoted from MoTo_773:one is the launch problem
This thread might help you:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/which-coil-is-stronger-gnr-launch-problem
thank you for your reply, i have tried all, and you gone call me crazy but the only way i figured out to guarantee that the ball or the ball's(yes it can launch 4 ball on the dray,and one by one they launch all) i have put on the coil one capacitor, and guess what, doesn't burn the coil even the fuse...
2 weeks later
Has anyone here used EL wire to light up their G and R ramps using yellow and red (respectively)? I'm planning on using Coolight that many have used to modify Tron ramps and have the ramps continuously on with these colors as the ramps are so dark and could use some additional lighting.
el 1-597.jpgQuoted from DrMark12PA:Has anyone here used EL wire to light up their G and R ramps using yellow and red (respectively)? I'm planning on using Coolight that many have used to modify Tron ramps and have the ramps continuously on with these colors as the ramps are so dark and could use some additional lighting.
el 1-597.jpg 205 KB
Thought about it, but doesn't fit the game for me. I used retro cool white LEDs in the gi to brighten it up some.
3 weeks later
Quoted from DrMark12PA:Has anyone here used EL wire to light up their G and R ramps using yellow and red (respectively)? I'm planning on using Coolight that many have used to modify Tron ramps and have the ramps continuously on with these colors as the ramps are so dark and could use some additional lighting.
el 1-597.jpg 205 KB
Wow I really like that! I think I will try that on mine when I get the time!
Just finished reinstalling my ramps and lit them up tonight to have a look as the playfield is out of my GNR cabinet as it's being touched up... here is a look at the EL wire ramps (the wire ramps are removed as they are being powder coated green)
G R ramps lit 1.jpg
G R ramps lit 2.jpgQuoted from Haymaker:looks awesome! I had this idea a while back but had never seen it done. Now I definitely want to do it!
Use Coolight.com.... they have all the specs/measurements so if you tell them you are doing a Guns N Roses pinball they should be able to copy the exact measurements for lengths of the El wire as well as the appropriate connectors/splicing and the inverter. It was $70 shipped
3 weeks later
I found that there is one option in the menu that I don't see in the manual. It's Adjustment 56; 'Laserkick Criterion'. The options are 00, 01, and 02. The default is 00. Anyone know what this option does?
2 weeks later
Just joined the group. Got a GnR local.
It has a decal overlay on the round Guns logo and some other issues. I'm thinking of removing the decal and seeing if underneath can be fixed. There is also major wear on the A-hole. And some other playfield issues - raised inserts, light wear, etc.
I'm thinking of repairing and clearcoating the PF - give it some love
If anyone wants to register their guns and roses on the owner page let me know...
http://www.habosarcade.com/Guns%20N'%20Roses%20Owners.htm
mhaberma[Remove]@verizon.net
1 week later
Glad to say I've joined this club! When I was 15 I played a GNR at my local arcade that way just out of the box. I loved it! I asked the guy working there how much a new GNR cost thinking maybe I could buy one. He told me it was about 3k. I couldn't believe it. It was all the money in the world to me at 15. I thought, some day, I'll have one of my own. 20 years later and today is the day! Welcome to the Jungle Baby!
Quoted from Gotpins:Glad to say I've joined this club! When I was 15 I played a GNR at my local arcade that way just out of the box. I loved it! I asked the guy working there how much a new GNR cost thinking maybe I could buy one. He told me it was about 3k. I couldn't believe it. It was all the money in the world to me at 15. I thought, some day, I'll have one of my own. 20 years later and today is the day! Welcome to the Jungle Baby!
Next stop Paradise City!
By some random chance does anyone happen to have a picture of a GNR speaker panel without the plastic in front of it? My speaker panel wood part is some hacked together thing (not original) but I thought I might be able to make my own if I could see exactly what it looks like. I'm assuming it looks like the Williams ones underneath, only with different size speaker holes. May need some measurements too. Thanks!
1 week later
For led's, does anyone else have problems with strobing in the slings/flipper area? I tried the SMD comet led's and the strobing is more than I can take. Normally I don't have issues with strobing at all with the newer LED's, so it's a little strange for me. Btw, I did get my speaker panel thing figured out I think.
Quoted from taylor34:For led's, does anyone else have problems with strobing in the slings/flipper area? I tried the SMD comet led's and the strobing is more than I can take. Normally I don't have issues with strobing at all with the newer LED's, so it's a little strange for me. Btw, I did get my speaker panel thing figured out I think.
Hopefully there will be a GI OCD for DE games one of these days, but nothing yet. If you light up the game more with spotlights and LED strips like pinballbulbs does in their kits, it is definitely less noticeable. It hardly ever bothers me now, and it was almost painful before I changed to their kit. The LED OCD is great in this machine to smooth out the insert LEDs.
Back in the club. I negotiated a trade for my old GnR pin back. I'll have to retake new pics however it really is in identical shape as when I bought it 7 or 8 years ago.
Selling my custom GNR topper that has been autographed by Slash himself if anyone is interested! This includes the attached mounting brackets.
DSC02226.JPG
DSC02227.JPG
DSC02228.JPG
DSC02229.JPGQuoted from taylor34:For led's, does anyone else have problems with strobing in the slings/flipper area?
I have CT frosteds in mine and I haven't noticed any more strobing in the slings area than in other areas. Overall I only notice strobing occasionally.
3 weeks later
I want to see those pop caps put in upside down so the light shines down on the playfield. having the light go up wards is great for lighting the caps, but I think it would be more useful downward lighting up the playfield. Anyone try that? curious to see how it would look.
I recently bought GNR again. Not planning on having this one leave anytime soon.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:I want to see those pop caps put in upside down so the light shines down on the playfield. having the light go up wards is great for lighting the caps, but I think it would be more useful downward lighting up the playfield. Anyone try that? curious to see how it would look.
I recently bought GNR again. Not planning on having this one leave anytime soon.
They do both,top side you can adjust the brightness.
Quoted from pingod:I just got mine back from CC the playfield.
I lit up the pop bumper area with the UFO LEDs and added extra spots at the slings.
I just ordered the yellow/yellow bumper LEDs from Comet Pinball... Just wondering if you cranked up the brightness on yours and how they look to brighten that otherwise somewhat darker area of the playfield.
I read somewhere that starting w gnr, DE made it so all leg levelers should be all the way down, both front and back legs.
If this is true, where is the pitch increased at? Did DE make the pf itself sit in the cab with the proper incline?
As an aside, I measured all legs and they're all the same length, I think it was 30.5. Top of leg to the bottom (not counting levelers)
Is this right? Are your back leg levelers all down flat, like the front?
Quoted from Blackbeard:I read somewhere that starting w gnr, DE made it so all leg levelers should be all the way down, both front and back legs.
If this is true, where is the pitch increased at? Did DE make the pf itself sit in the cab with the proper incline?
As an aside, I measured all legs and they're all the same length, I think it was 30.5. Top of leg to the bottom (not counting levelers)
Is this right? Are your back leg levelers all down flat, like the front?
Yes the game is to be set up with the levelers all down. Mine has decals inside the leg stating this.
Quoted from DrMark12PA:I just ordered the yellow/yellow bumper LEDs from Comet Pinball... Just wondering if you cranked up the brightness on yours and how they look to brighten that otherwise somewhat darker area of the playfield.
I got mine from pinball centre,Noflix led UFO.
They had to be hot glued in to the pop bumper caps.
No adjustment needed
They make a major improvement,I recommend them.
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