It should be. Do you have a metal strike plate?

GUNS N' ROSES Ramps

I was changing out one of my dye baths this week and I've decided to do one more run of the Guns n' Roses ramps. I can pretty much do the R ramps (red) at any time on demand, but I rarely use a yellow dye necessary for the G ramp....So if anyone is interested in getting in on this run, let me know so I can see how many I need to make.

So after getting EVERYTHING sorted out with GNR, I just noticed the magnets stopped working (lol, it’s always something). This is a fairly recent phenomenon, occurring roughly at the same time the kickback failed a few weeks ago (which happened to only be the fuse; coincidence?). From some quick research F9 on the ppb is also used for protection of the magnet board, as well as the kickback, but I can’t confirm that.

I checked the fuses, and all 3 are blown. I popped a couple new 2.5 amp slo-blows in, and they popped while playing a test game for magnet function.

Any ideas where to start?

Magnets test at 4.9/4.8/4.8 ohms when putting a meter probe on the duplexed connection and placing the probe on the three individual terminals.

Game plays flawlessly other than this one last issue.

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I would replace the magnet board. I recently had similar issues and got the homepin board from pinball life. I had to add the capacitor it comes with. But everything works great now.

Yes, I agree. I did the same thing and the mags work perfect now. Make sure to add the extra capacitor it comes with. Not sure why it’s not pre-installed. Strange.

A replacement mag board will be my last resort; I tend to prefer to fix the core issue, rather than replace a whole board; as an example, I’ve soldered in new optos in B/W fliprtronics boards for instance (even though a new board is $15, the replacement opto was $.89 from my local electronics store and two minutes of my time).

Time will tell, as I don’t like to throw parts at a game without actually diagnosing the problem.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guns-n-roses-gnr-members-only/page/11#post-3063011

Good info on the ass-tacular DE magnet board there along with a couple of workarounds.

Pulled the mag board out; does anything look remotely suspect?

Any idea what meter readings I should be getting off the three mosfets?

I might replace the three P20N10 mosfets with IRL540 mosfets as suggested by https://www.techdose.com/repairlog/Repairing-a-Data-East-Last-Action-Hero-Magnet-Controller-Board/306/page1.html

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here's my benchtop readings of the three mosfets:

I'm far from an expert here, do these look suspect? Should there be continuity across the three legs of the bottom two mosfets?

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So here's my chain of events/logic here:

About a month ago I noticed the kickback stopped working suddenly;

I traced it back to a blown F9 fuse on the ppb; I replaced the fuse and the kickback started working again (And much stronger than before!);

I noticed a week ago that the magnets were not functioning during play;

I checked the three magnet fuses, and they were all popped; placed 3 new 2.5 amp ones in, and upon powering on the machine, heard the distinctive "wwiiirrr" sound of something be stuck on. I checked the fuses and they were all popped. F9 is still good.

I'm left as such: The magnets got locked on by a bad transistor(s) on the board or the magnet board itself. This blew F9 (and subsequently I lost the kickback) and the magnet fuses. The magnets themselves test good. The mosfets on the magnet board appear to be bad (as two test with no continuity). I'm guessing next step is replace the three mosfets on the mag board and go from there?

I found if I had any continuity on the mosfets they are shot. I had exact problems as you have though never blew F9. I went with the Homepin board & xtra cap it comes with, changed out mags & no issues since. Any mag reading under 3 ohms is NFG. I think the board is still under $100. Well worth it. John

Interesting...

I have my negative lead on the top clip of the mosfet, and the the readings are from the individual legs. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? I would have figured no continuity would indicate a shorted/bad mosfet. As far as I can tell, this is the original, untouched magnet board.

Where is the capacitor physically located on your new board? is it literally just in parallel with clk and ground on the pia?

The 70 bucks for a replacement board from the various manufacturers certainly isn't going to break me, I just always prefer to salvage original boards/replace individual components when I can. Call me a sucker for abuse, lol

I'm not a electronic wiz on this stuff & I wouldn't be able to repair a board either. I have the old mag board here that you are welcome to. Just cover shipping. The capacitor goes into C4 on the new board they give you. I sent mine to a friend to solder that in for me & he tried it out on his GNR. I have pics on my phone of new board & instructions I can send you if you want to text for them. A lot of guys also relocate board to back box but that's major reworking & wiring to make signal wires shorter & some still had a problem. It's just a Data East design issue. John. 973-862-1905

This game is never leaving; I’ll take a round this time. Flaps installed?

pm sent

John,

That's a very generous offer; I may take you up on the old board as a backup...

I'll text you later to see where that capacitor is located. Thank you!

I went ahead and ordered three IRL540PBF (the current equivalent of the IRL540, but with slightly higher continuous amp drainage, so it should actually be more robust) for a whopping $7 shipped to my door by Friday.

Figure it's worth the gamble to pull the 3 old transistors and solder the new ones in. If it works, so be it, and if it doesn't and I get three more blown fuses, I'll order either a great plains or homepin board. Working on them is half the fun of this hobby, right? Right?

Is there any way to start ball 3 without having MB ready? Can’t find anything in the settings

I believe setting 47, Multiball Ready Style, set to Hard or Extra Hard.

That doesn't work for me. I've tried both. My game ROM is 2.0 Maybe that makes a difference?

Being a DE, it MAY not be possible to deactivate pity multiball...I have mine set up to factory settings.

I'd wait for a more knowledgeable settings/ROM version guru to chime in.

See my last post where I linked to my GnR repair blog post. I cover repairing this board in detail including the parts you should upgrade.

Here is the post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guns-n-roses-gnr-members-only/page/38#post-5743257

Thank you #arolden!

Thankfully I haven’t had the time to replace the 3 mosfets on the mag board yet; I’ll see if I can’t have someone local socket and replace the pia for me on the mpu, and I’ll rebuild and add all the other things on the mag board! Thank you again!!!

I'm considering listing my early production (Says "MULTI BALL" and "ADD BAND MEMBER" in a wrong font instead of GNR logo near COMA inserts, black and chrome wireforms) GNR for sale. It's got a topper, uninstalled Freeplay ramps, mirrored backglass, complete extra plastics set, pinsound, LED conversion, a Color DMD and a few other small tricks up its sleeve. I've owned it since 1998. What would you list it at? It doesn't seem to compare with anything listed recently.

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Ever come across an issue where the flippers lose power and move really slow? It seems to happen with my game and moves between the left and right flippers. Thanks.

No need to replace the PIA yet. Just try upgrading the magnet board first.

Is it a mechanical issue from wear? If not, is the flipper only engaging on the hold stroke rather than the power stroke? I'd check the flipper board is giving you good outputs on the high and low voltages. Make sure all fuse clips are tight, too.

Hard to say with just those few picts. I feel there's definitely added value with the lower production and uniqueness of the different inserts etc.

I own GNR too, since late 90's. I'd guess low $6000 range.

Kerry

You don’t think that would risk blowing the new mosfets?

I mean if I power the game and hear the tell-tale buzz of the magnets I could immediately power the game off/open the coin door, but would that second or two of power surge fry them IF the magnets are in fact locked on?

I’m pleased to say that gnr is back up and running 100%!

I soldered in the three new IRL540 mosfets and two of the recommended caps arolden recommended (I had them on hand and will probably add the other components to the mag board soon).

I put the board back in, and put three fast blow 1 amp fuses in the holders as a cheap insurance policy in case the magnets were still locked on upon power up.

I powered the game ready to turn it off immediately if I heard the tell tale buzz of the magnets being locked on, but nothing!

I powered the game off, swapped the 2.5 slow blows back in, powered it back on, and proceeded to the mag test in diagnostics. Magnets pulsed normally!

I played a couple test games and everything worked great!

Thanks again for all the help folks, much appreciated!

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Depends on when you sell it ... before or after the JJP Gnr drop. However, I'd be interested in seeing some photos. I've been looking for another GnR to add (long story) so when you have some time, drop me a line.

Thanks for the reply. I swapped out my Tommy flipper board and issue persisted. It is strange because it seemed to be an EOS issue with the right flipper, which was corrected. Not it seems to go back and forth between the right and left flipper.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/pa_cramer/stories/gnr-paint-and-polish

Wanted to share my new chrome apron logo solution: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finally-new-chrome-logo-solution-for-data-east-aprons#post-5810505

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GNR has a flat metal apron.

Thanks for letting me know, looked like the other from the pics I saw (didn’t see a closeup).

My apologies to the club for the non-applicable post.

Not a problem for me ..: can prob use it on my Simpsons

Reproduction Toppers back in stock

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/guns-n-roses/9366/topper-for-guns-n-roses?number=65037

Why not use a real guitar as a topper?!! Lol. I think it turned out pretty good!!

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Hi all.
Can anyone tell me the part number or even better have a spare of the circled wire guide below? It’s in the super jackpot lane
My game is missing this piece

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anyone into Virtual Pinball? looking for members that have any 3d scans of the GnR playfield parts. for virtual project. will pay for any good scans you have. yes i own a GnR but don't have the equipment to do it.. thanks

I am just getting around to restoring my machine, my playfield is in great shape accept Slashes tattoo where the ball kicks out from the Axl scoop. Has anyone made a mylar overlay with his tattoo for that spot?

For all the pinsound guys out there, here is a link to my pinsound files. I uploaded to the pinsound community board and it's pending approval. I put an older version out there a while ago, but this one has a lot of updates. I'm sure I'll keep tweaking it over time, but I think I'm done for the time being. It's unbelievable how much better pinsound makes the game.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cm6q-O4nzIrvNyQHFeEurAU8KqFOFUgL/view?usp=sharing

My poor gnr is having issues, hope someone can help. Ut works fine for the first game or so, then during the game at a random time the music glitches out,the top speakers keep working (in modes) and the the game will just reset (usually during multiball). I cannot figure it out . It’s brutal,just reset during riot multiball . Seems like a power issue maybe, or improper grounding? I have no idea. Trying to capture on video if that helps.

Are you running Pinsound? If so, you'll need the extra power cable they sell to help with this power issue. Had the same issue with Tommy and the Pinsound power cable fixed it. Else, have you rebuild the PS?

Hey I never have had multiple mixes on a pin sound board before, how does my directory on my flash drive need to be set up to add this and get it to load correctly.

Anyone know where I could get one of the g ramp brackets. Mine was missing when I got it.

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You can just add the new sound directory to the audio folder. I'm not totally sure how you select which one when the game boots though. I've never done it. Give it a try and let me know what you think.

How do I know if I have that cable ? It does seem to be the sound “box”. Not the fuse. I’ll try n recreate it and get a video,. Thanks for the response. I think it is running pinsound, but I honestly don’t know

Help please !!

Check the connections on your white coin door interlock switch inside the coin door frame. It seems like the game thinks the coin door is being opened.