If you are going to buy a replacement board anyways, it might be worth trying. It's not really hard to unsolder/solder in a new component. Figure a new SCR will be $2; a new board could be over $100. Just fruit for thought. I totally understand not wanting to get into the nitty gritty of board work.

Thanks, maybe I will give it a try. Lets see how much work is required and if a beginner can manage it. Will try to get some closer photos tonight.

Here are some photos of the flipper board. Any noticable issues? Thanks for the help.

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Hard to tell, but 1st photo....top row...2 pins on the left appear suspect...possibly cracked solder.. Reflow?

When you upload, change the dropdown to "original size, no rescaling" so it doesn't shrink the picture when it's uploaded. What's here is too small. Cold solder cracks are fine and hard to see at the size available with these shrunk pictures.

That said, these seem like trouble spots:
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Two diodes related to the upper left flipper (D4, D5)
A small diode related to the lower left flipper (D6)

I don't see anything related to the lower right, except maybe the 12th pin on CN2, but I'm not sure if that connects to the right flipper.

Anyway, I bet just re-flowing these points would get your board mostly or fully operational. No time like the present to learn. As long as you get a temperature controlled soldering iron ($100 https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ ) and some good solder, it's hard to mess up re-flowing solder as long as you remember NEVER TO FORCE IT. If the old solder isn't melting, add some new solder and don't leave the iron on the bad for more than a couple seconds.

Youtube video on how to reflow solder:

That guy has way too big of a tip on his iron for the work he's doing, but overall in the ballpark of the information you need. You can likely do this repair yourself, and you'll learn a new skill in the process!

How is this one?

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You can likely do this repair yourself, and you'll learn a new skill in the process!Thanks very much for the help! I will try to swap the board out in another GnR so I can see if it is actually the board.

One other thing that happened was when I held down the left flipper, all the sound would go off. Does that make sense? Thank you.

A solder reflow is a 10-40 minute job max. Probably closer to 10 minutes. Let someone try to do that for you (if you don't solder), before buying a new board.
(if you have a local enough guy to lend a hand).

good luck!

Size looks the same. I guess you can just take a closer picture of the areas I pointed out with the orange arrows to see how they look with better resolution, but at the get least, get a temp controlled solder station ordered and a roll of thin solder so you can be ready to fix this once you verify it is indeed the board.

Pinside automatically resizes (downsizes) any attached photos.

Not if you select "original size" on the dropdown when uploading.

Ahhhh...Good to know. Never noticed that.

Geez, 5 hours and I’ve installed all but 1 cliffy, and half of the new rubbers.

And.....my freaking gate that lets the ball into the snake pit doesn't have room to open and close.

But, I made progress, haha.

I am only guessing, but it probably took me 2 hours to get those freakin cliffys on the yellow ramp.

Best fucking part, I cant get the fucking yellow ramp door to open and close so I do some tweaking to it.

All done, new rubbers, wax it.

Apparently my adjustment to make that door able to work had the yellow ramp too high. Shattered the piece of shit when re installing the glass.

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Oh man that is brutal!!!! That’s the worst I am sorry to see that! There are repro ramps around for sure, can ou even play it in that condition?

Well that sux.

Nope. I may be able to glue it so I can play it, but I still have the issue of the door on that ramp not opening and closing.

Ah Man... what a bummer indeed. So sorry to see that. Thanks for sharing.

maybe mark has a extra laying around still?

It's a simple mech, but can bind easily. It took me a few days to get mine ironed out. Biggest issue is making sure the plunger is dead on straight, and the nut and washer don't hit the habit trail below it.

Reach out if you want a second set of eyes on it.

I fixed him up.

Yes he did, thanks!

I have the new ramp in my possession. I assume some of the gate parts are riveted? So I need to drill them out and re-rivet them back into the new ramp?

Also does anyone sell the slash sticker that goes on the ramp? Mine is reusable, but a new one would be nice.

Well my rivets wouldn't fit through both pieces of metal and the ramp so I used small bolts.

This is as close as I am going to get.

Edit: good thing I used bolts instead of rivets here. Loosening the screws are helping me line things up.
Updated pic later.

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New ramp installed.

Door still has no room to open/close, but that problem is for another day.

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What is the door hitting? I cant tell from that side, maybe take one from the other angle and show what its hitting?

I seemed to had this issue for a minute and needed to move/adjust something

From.the pics, I am guessing it's the locknut and washer, and it's hitting the black habit trail.

yep and adjusting that got me into a situation where I destroyed my original ramp (after spending hours cliffy-ing it up)

I'm leaving for CAX tomorrow, so I will deal with it some time after I get back.

does someone sell the slash sticker?

I am in sac, and have offered to help.I got mine working great, I can assist if needed.

I remember you offering (thank you)

I will be hitting you up at some point

To avoid breaking it of course, maybe remove the wire form & ramp from the game completely so you can bend the wireform separately from any attachment to the ramp. The ramp should have zero tweeking needed whatsoever, it will be the surrounding parts

I can take pics of mine working when I get home later and maybe you can compare

Bay Area Amusement sells a decal set that includes that decal.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-GNR98

Shouldn't have to tweak any of the ramp parts. You are right about the actual ramp not needing tweaking. For mine it was the washer needed to be trimmed slightly, and the plunger needs to be dead nuts straight. Any sort of friction between the plunger and coil sleeve means a hangup

Does anyone have a replacement gun for GNR as the shipping company (STI) destroyed it?

Thanks in advance

Agreed, make sure this bolt slides right inbetween the wireframe gap. There’s barely room but that needs to flow freely. If it’s hitting, you adjust the wire form only - and not the ramp or trap door assembly
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As a side note, this mini GNR screen has to be one of the best mods ever. Lots of classic video of the band in the good ol days. Hopefully JJP has something like this and is capturing a lot of footage for the new game

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i once made a mod like this, with a 7" tablet i butchered, but i died on me because i wasn`t able to shut i down properly.....

This one runs non stop. There’s an MFG that makes the stock product, but not sure where the GNR screen print got done

Yeah it’s in a place where it doesn’t get hit otherwise I’m guessing it would be toast. This one came with the machine, and the price did seem steep from what I’ve seen. If you go directly to the mfg it’s not bad, somebody was making a grip on these. It’s just a small board that takes micro sd cards. Still looks cool. I dumped the Slash doll as it just seemed corny

Well it ain’t in action anymore, it’s out of action in a plastic bin with other pinball parts

If you have a Pinsound card for your GnR, I highly recommend the Pinsound Data East booster cable. My GnR's sound was in and out often and this cable seems to have completely fix the issue. So if you notice the sound breaking up sometimes with the Pinsound, worth the small investment.

Yeah I don’t why they don’t make that mandatory. I accidentally found out it even existed when I was talking with one of the Pinsound guys. All Data East machines pretty much require it or you’ll get exactly what you explained there

Thanks for the info! That’s really annoying.

Saw Slash last night in Atlanta great show. 3rd time seeing them.

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Cool thanks for posting the pics. Slash is awesome.. wish you could have asked him how the JJ GnR machine is coming

Hey so my new left ramp gets some "fliers", meaning the ball is traveling so fast it jumps through the ramp into the upper part of the cab and doesn't spin the way you may expect.

Admittedly, I was fortunate and got a repro ramp that was defined as "a second", though it looks fantastic. It is awesome.

I am thinking of putting a "lid" on the ramp right around the front half.

I would appreciate any insight/advice, etc.

You have a picture of the ramp entrance? Curious if it’s launching off something

Just installed the booster. Works great. Been looking for a solution to sound breaking up for years.. thought x pin power board would solve it and did not. Thanks!!!