Just do one pop at a time. That way, if you get lost, you have another one to look at for comparison. Good luck! Have fun!! Once you do one, the rest will seem easy.

What he said.

Just a note that soldering is required to replace the pop bumper skirts.
I've done two of the three on mine. I suck at soldering, so it is not a high degree of difficulty project if I can do it, but you do need to cut and resolder the bulb leads.

Yes it is a project in itself.

Be prepared to rebuild the Whole Pop bumper not just the Skirts as these machines generally have more broken parts than you can see upon an initial inspection. Broken or worn Pop Bumper Switches also come into play.

I am rebuilding 5 Pop Bumpers right Now on my Williams Stardust and my initial intention was to just replace the Light Sockets, Skirts, All Springs, Coil Sleeves, Mylars and just polish the metal Rings but now it also includes New Pop Bumper Bodies and Bases as there was a broken one. I also had to rebuild from scratch a Pop Bumper Switch that was broken.

Note that when you buy the new parts they will be a different color than your stock ones and if you want them to all match you will have to buy all new. If your metal rings are half way decent and not bent or broken you can just throw those in a Tumbler as I did and they clean up like new and of course there is also the option of New Pop Bumper Caps as well.

Ken

Re-doing the pops is definitely a pain, but worth the effort.

It's a lot easier with the playfield out of the machine, btw.

Ditto,doing 2 on a Mars Trek , removed the adhesive mylars to non-adhesive after a heat gun dance.
No broken parts. yeehah!
I can say its easy to do the skirt change out ,hardest part is the pop light wiring.

Very true ^^^^plus less chance of an easter egg hunt for the dropped fasteners in the cabinet.

you mean looking for them on the towel you put on the bottom panel right......

Thats how I do it.....Except I usually remember the towel one dropped screw too late.

A rotisserie would be best. It is hard to set the playfield down at all without damaging it. If you have to set it down without a rotisserie, set it on its side. Prop it up securely and make sure you have room to get at each side.

Here is one of many pinside threads that contain info and instructions on rotisseries.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-rotisserie-1

Very....

I'll be rebuilding mine with the playfield in the machine. I don't have room for the rotisserie right now.

Did my pop skirt replacement with the playfield in the machine and raised.
It would have been easier with the playfield out, but that just shows how much of an idiot I am. It's just awkward to work that way.
Yes, the playfield does feel like it is made from lead. Way heavy due to all the machinery mounted on the bottom.
Make sure it's not just on the prop rod if you do this. You really don't want that to land on your head by accident.

I usually put a sheet of cardboard across the cabinet and put a few rags at the playfield to cardboard gap. (easier on the eyes and back)
Thinking outside the box. make it slightly oversize and you must use quick grip clamps. (mine holds about 10- 15 pounds safely)
I only do that for some repairs. ^^^^^ Line the cardboard with a towel to prevent bouncing of dropped fasteners.

You must remove the apron First! then the ball return kicker and any brackets that may interfere with the following procedure:>
A Workmate by B&D gives easier access to both sides at a good working height. Clamp in about an 1-1/2" in leaving the screws in as a stop.

* NOTE* unless you a strong enough to hold and clamp at the same time get someone help with it. Be safe!

Another tip to help with before mounting in a Workmate is to take 2 quick grip clamps swayed back,tighten down on the playfield as a temporary stop , about 1-1/2" in ,then tighten down the Workmate.

Make sure its clamped well before doing work/repairs!!!

Works excellent.

Hey Skybug ,If you do the pop bumper skirt ,may as well do the flippers and anything else if you go the Workmate route. < a little more prep but well worth it. IMO

IMG_2705.JPG Playfield_workmate_holder.JPG

Yeah, that might be an issue.
Gulfstream has way more machinery attached to the bottom of the playfield than most pins. The array of coils and linkages that works the specials is just huge and gigantically heavy. If you have not seen (and lifted) it, you are likely not thinking heavy enough.

Obviously Pin-It has done it this way, but your question was my first reaction too.

Here's an idea that might allow you to use the workbench and not worry about it becoming topheavy. Not to mention that the pop bumpers will be about 5.5 to 6 feet in the air after you clamp it on top of the workbench. Maybe Pin-It is NBA tall.

Stand the playfield on its end with the front on the floor and clamp the side of the playfield into the end of the workbench clamp to steady it. You may want to take the apron off and the support brackets that extend out from the front of the playfield.

Yes , I tried pushing it over with it clamped and I felt the playfield flex/bend and not feel like it was going to flip over.
But for safety and piece of mind, loading it sideways it has a better center of gravity.

The feet on it are farther out for balance,at first i thought it would be top heavy too ,but after clamping and shaking it ,i was convinced. I would still hold the playfield with one hand while tightening screws to be safe.

Nah ^^,I am not that tall <6 feet.

The pop bumpers were at 59 & 63 inches (for me approximately shoulder height) not hard to do them. (no hunching over)

The good/better way to clamp it is sideways, but I would remove the outer shooter lane rail which is if you look on the back of the playfield is being held with small phillip wood screws (on the GS I believe its 4 screws) the reason i clamped it on end was for an easier and complete teardown I am doing. But do not recommend end clamping for beginners , plus it depends on what model you have or purchase as some clamp tables are of poor quality.

When loading sideways put good quality masking tape on the playfield edge at the clamping point that removes easy to protect the finish if you go past where the rail sets to protect from scratching the finish.
That would be best. ^^ In fact I would do it sideways myself next time,as it has a wider clamp grab area.

You could do that also^^^Good idea, its the safest of all Pafasa ^^^ better for Sky to handle it that way.

Mines an older model 300 which holds up to 550 pounds according to this E-bay listing (sold) as I do not have a manual for it.

ebay.com link: Black Decker Workmate 300 Work Center pre owned

B&D workmate seemed to be around the longest,maybe do some research on the different models and read what others think ,also see what the box stores (lowes ,home depot ,sears) have and see if they have displays you can look at closely to see if they look strong enough.
From low duty to heavy duty they have different quality grades ,like anything else sold today.

After removing the side rail and taping the jaw , I loaded it sideways resting on framework just below the jaws a small stack of cardboard pieces to raise the playfield to where I wanted to clamp it. (nothing except the masking tape for protection)

Aside from the playfield being heavy , the WM 300 provides easy access to under the playfield.

No rush do your research.
Its not mandatory to get one ,but it does make it easier,just see if you can also use it for other projects.

IMG_2836.JPG

I love my B&D workmate.

Stay away from the harbor freight one...kinda flimsy, IMO.

If you have a dremel or similar rotary tool, get some of the brass wire wheels shown in the pic from harbor freight. Only $5 - just picked them up today. I have the stainless steel ones and they work great. There's a small one in there that works very well on lamp sockets. Should work equally well on jones plugs.

IMG_0890.JPG

I use nylon scuff pads on my J plugs and if real dirty/corroded start off with some fine sandpaper.
Was going to get a small metal hand wire brush ,keep forgetting to pick one up.

Do you use it for a playfield?

Give it a torture test and some feedback on them.^^^

Almost forgot if you stand it on end it will fall through the Workmate make sure you use these speed clamps. You can remove them once clamped in the Workmate.
Just position them so they are deep enough for a good/secure bite and not to far in that they smash things.

IMG_2840_-_Copy_(475x500).jpg

Pinot, I use my workmate for my rotisserie.

I clamp one t-section mounted on a 2x4 in it, and the other end of it is attached to the wall.

I also made a mobile version using a HF "workmate" to hold the other section of black pipe.

Im kind of out of things to clean/polish at the moment.

I'll have to take a look around and see what I can come with to test them out. If they're anything like the steel ones, they'll be great!

Ok got it, just wondering if you used it solo.

I have an unfinished basement so I was thinking of taking my large black pipe pony clamps,attaching them to what they call floor flanges(using blocking between the floor joists),lag bolt threaded to the ceiling and basically suspending a playfield in mid air.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/3-4-in-black-malleable-iron-threaded-floor-flange-521-604hn.html#.US63rTAsmwA

Something I have to try out sometime.

Wish I had that problem. ^^^ I have a few more pieces to polish yet.

Luv Harbor freight!

That sounds like an interesting idea.

I picked up one of their $29 bar stools while I was there today, too.

Perfect height for playing, but the padding sux! Gotta fix that.

I actually have a ton of stuff to clean up. Forgot about the Silverall mania I have completely disassembled. it got put on the back burner once the firepower arrived...