This thread will offer a complete guide to building a brand new fish tales pinball topper from scratch from readily available replacement parts (~$300) and a little bit of sweat equity

We’ll provide a complete list of all parts needed including prices and sources, and we’ll show you how to make every part that you can’t buy...all in one place.

1327E781-1992-4B87-BDEB-DAF9EA89E11E (resized).jpeg1CB04EB2-7344-45EE-BE73-00B74C96EDF0 (resized).jpeg7A954D79-C760-4B1A-9EAD-19D6701E7442 (resized).jpeg

NOTE: you can also build the same topper using the BILLY BASS fish and tons of people have these on eBay.

IMG_6666 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6665 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6669 (resized).jpeg

TIME TO BUILD: 3-6 HOURS.
COST TO BUILD: $300-400

Step 1 - Get the parts you can. $300 + tax/shipping will get you there, and the most expensive item is a nice brand new acrylic dome topper...that you would have had to replace and buy anyway if you bought a used topper from someone on ebay for $600+...so think about it. You may not want to spend more than $200 on a used topper if the dome is busted, otherwise you can just build one in about 3-6 hours depending on how handy you are.

PlanetaryPinball.com
+Fish - PPS-A-15713 - $51.00
+Seashell Decals - PPS-31-1682-6-SP - $7.50
+Topper Dome - PPS-03-8653 - $114.00
Total: $172.50 + tax/shipping
NOTE: dome may also be sourced from StarshipFantasy for $114, but shipping is more

PinballLife.com
+Kicker Assembly - A-14525 - $40 (note: this is an in-stock alternative to A-15304)
(2) mini wedge sockets - 077-5026-01 - $1.10/ea = $2.20
(2) bayonet base with short mounting bracket - a-11905 - $1.95/ea = $3.90
(4) cable clamps 1/2" - 03-7655-8 - $0.26/ea = $1.04
(4) unslotted hex head screws #8-32 (1 1/4" up to 1 3/4" based on whats in stock) - 4008-01113-28 - $0.25/ea = $1.00
(1) unslotted hex head screws #8-32 x 1/2" - 4008-01113-08 - $0.19
(10) #8 washers - $.05/ea = $0.50
(4) #8-32 tee nuts - $0.15/ea = $0.60
(1) #8-32 black nylon lock nut - 240-5102-00B - $0.25
(11) #6x1/2" black wood screw with built in washer - 4106-01022-08B - $0.22/ea = $2.42
Total: $52.10 + tax/shipping

PosterBurner.com
screen translite 31-1692 - you'll need to order this custom, and posterburner is one place you can order online easily
+8"x24" custom wall mural - $14
Use one of these awesome photos from this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fish-tales-casters-club/page/16#post-3237093
which will direct you to a dropbox for full res files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nziaqcoowhuglbc/AAAQ06AsIZF_6ukAS-ABzjyMa?dl=0
Grab the .psd file as I assume it's the best quality image, and posterburner will accept photoshop files
thank you Pinballgeek
Total: $14 + tax/shipping

Amazon.com
+wire for the harness: 18 Gauge Wire - 6 Colors of Tinned Copper Wires Silicone Rubber Insulated from Plusivo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082VY9FRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00 - $15
+Molex .062" 2 pin connector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NNS1LR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00 - $7
+Molex .093" 4 pin connector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074S7CP2D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 - $15
Total: $37 + tax/shipping
NOTE: you can probably get these at pinball shop online too, but these full sets on amazon just seemed easy to me and popped up first

Optional mod lighting from CometPinball to replace light strip in front of fish
+ Matrix 6smd lighting pads (for GI below fish - choose your color!) $3/ea = $15
+ Matrix 10smd lighting strip (to splash some light on the back wall - choose color! - this goes behind topper, includes matrix wedge adaptor which is needed) $4
+ matrix 2 way splitter - $0.50
+ (2) matrix 3 way splitter - $0.60/ea = $1.20
+ (3) 6" or 12" matrix extension - $0.60/ea = $1.80
Total: $22.50 + tax/shipping

Total Raw costs: $298.10 + tax/shipping

On top of this, you will need a piece of wood, a pair of black L brackets (home depot/lowes), a lure of your choice, 2 bayonet GI bulbs, and a wedge flasher to complete your ensemble.

Let's start building!

Step 2 - wire the 4 - pin harness

Hand measure and approximate the length you need to run from the top into the back box with some slack. Cut 4 wires and try to color code.

Two Purple wires in the existing harness connector in back box will go to the coil kicker.

Red and blue wires in the existing harness connector in back box will go to a wedge socket for the flasher.

It’s that simple.

make a dry connection and test out your wiring before soldering.

1E76D45E-84AC-4A0E-B314-538931598AA2 (resized).jpeg

B2102607-2DEB-460D-B53B-0E7C29197D4D (resized).jpeg

Step 3 - test the harness. Solder upon satisfaction!

Hook up your harness to the connector in the back box.

Go into test mode on the game.

The flasher is T5 25 Reel - when you get there your flasher should be flashing!

The kicker is T4 08 back box fish - when you get their your coil should be popping.

Solder up!

36FBF80F-05B7-45C4-AB0A-68EA553B1486 (resized).jpeg

C2B4591C-D342-4C45-892B-C576A7AC465C (resized).jpeg

Step 4 - assemble the fish

Use (4) #8-32 screws and washers and get em hooked.

On the tail, use the #8 x 1/2” long screw with a washer to come through the fish, then use a washer and the black lock nut. This nut will be kicked by the kicker and it replaces the out of stock fish protect plate #a-15585. But if you can get that part somewhere...sweet. I couldn’t.

37A57311-0726-4A20-886E-583A2A7DD967 (resized).jpeg

63F8E9A4-7C0D-44D1-8573-26ACBDA0CE36 (resized).jpeg

Step 5 - make the backboard.

Use a 1x8 board (Lowe’s, Home Depot) which is actually 7 1/4” wide. Cut it to 23 3/4” long.

Paint it. Make sure front is sanded smooth after paint where decal will be applied. I painted my front white and back black so I could layout my fish and trace on the front.

Lay fish on board. Just find a spot you like. Trace the general shape. Mark on the board where this 4 screws hit the board - drill holes for screws. Fit the fish on the board. Now Mark where the tail nut hits the board and drill a larger hole as this is where the plunger will be coming through to kick your fish’s tail. Position the kicker behind the board so it’s in place. Since you’re likely using the optional kicker assembly I noted above, you just need a small block of wood on the back to attach to the bracket. You can see in my picture I used three screws to attach the block to the backboard. I probably went overkill but with all that flapping I wanted to ensure that bracket was affixed for good.

Now Mark where the eye is on the board and drill a hole for a bayonet GI socket

At this point, I’d find a lure you intend to use. Sure you could make one out of plexi with a decal like the original, but why not upgrade to a nice translucent legit lure from Cabellas for $8? It’s cheaper. And looks cooler. And a hook can dangle in your fish’s mouth. Just do it.

Mark where your lure lands. Drill two larger holes behind it: one for the flasher bulb and one for the bayonet GI.

At this point, all your drilling and hole making is done.

06E7E42F-16B8-4160-A632-4A6A54845AAE (resized).jpeg

52E95D66-DB26-4D7E-B8B4-2EEE2A9D4555 (resized).jpeg

Step 6 - assemble back of board

Let’s start screwing some stuff down. Kicker and flasher wedge. 2 bayonet sockets wedge socket on bottom which will be used for our matrix leds from comet. Connect the GI wiring (yellow here) and make the 2 pin harness. Add those 4 cable clamps wherever you think you need them. You may as well attach the black brackets on the back too. These pics should get you the details you need...

6BE83354-152A-4742-A231-BC2D2FAF4DC4 (resized).jpeg9646973D-4508-41E0-9E28-FBE5B7F4E4F5 (resized).jpegC352B93B-EE6D-4C7B-962E-652690E10566 (resized).jpeg

200CA1E8-E6D1-457A-8B5F-7D4FEC54485A (resized).jpeg

Step 7 - finish front of board

Let’s get the custom decal applied to the front. You ordered it 8” x 24” so you have a little bit of overhang on all four sides that you can trim off. Much easier to apply.

Then get the bayonet gi bulbs in. Then attach your fish. Heck, might as well attach your lure too.

0EC42D20-9110-4714-8078-6D0F40E097C6 (resized).jpeg

54E8D80B-E2E9-4187-B87C-3D7AAC4810CB (resized).jpeg

B91DC763-7F92-4A30-98EC-17E732F3D6FF (resized).jpeg

D3A1CD1D-5C17-4FB1-A591-CF06C0D96FB8 (resized).jpeg

F62AD9D4-0B03-45F4-B142-B87D87B18E8D (resized).jpeg

Step 8 - get the light bar rocking on top of the box (or in this case, the matrix led pads from comet)

I put the shell decals on the topper dome, then used the spacing of those shells to determine where to place each of the 5 led pads. But for you guys, I also took pics with a tape measure so you can cheat.

Once you have the 5 down, start connecting with the matrix splitters and extensions as necessary. Remember, these are driven by the bottom wedge socket on the bottom of the backboard and the first two way splitter will connect to that adapter.

If you want to light up the wall behind the machine, this is also a good time to put that matrix led 10smd strip on the back of your backboard at the top.

1900E43A-2E41-4547-9290-BA1A707C8F99 (resized).jpeg

746E3568-B9AB-43B9-8D73-563CAEB6E8E2 (resized).jpeg

81ADA8E5-C040-4714-A202-D0963DEFC9D0 (resized).jpeg

906FC9C5-1EA7-42FE-95E2-44B01D2F4BAA (resized).jpeg

Step 9 - put the backboard with the fish on top!

Connect the matrix leds. Clean up your matrix wires into the cable clamps. Put on the topper dome and screw down.

17CFF679-D746-46D6-A1DD-97F40CCDED9C (resized).jpeg

A990303E-8160-4268-8FD9-5AC2206BD16F (resized).jpeg

step 10 - play a game. Step back and admire your work. Pat yourself on the back for building a topper for $300 within 3-6 hours...and tell your spouse you saved $700 by not getting suckered into paying $1,000 for a busted old topper on eBay.

I should note — the final touch is the eyeball decal. I can’t find one. My plan is to simply take a clear sticker, cut it into a circle, then use a black sharpie to draw the eye. I’ll get an eyeball decal pic up here at some point so you can see what it looks like.

09A5047D-BEE5-40FB-8299-535E929A8023 (resized).jpeg

92F8A4EC-31A7-47CE-AEAE-233004EEE3F5 (resized).jpeg

Fullhouse nice job! I’m glad you were able to join the sweat equity topper club. That lure looks cool too!

I like the idea of using a base as the topper. You could easily born it in and make it look good. I think velcro of substantial size would hold just fine and I also think that if it’s holding…you’re also going to feel the shaking!! Go for it!

When I rejoined the club I had to build another topper. Like many above , the fish is OOS.

However, I did use Billy bass and even though he’s shorter the quality of thr fish is better than the replacement from planetary pinball.

I also build the topper slightly different as I have a walnut version fish tales here. So no decal.

I also lit the entire perimeter using addressable led stripes that sync with my speaker lights.

IMG_6665 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6666 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6667 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6668 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6669 (resized).jpeg

Here are a few assembly shots.

IMG_6654 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6655 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6656 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6657 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6658 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6659 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6660 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6661 (resized).jpeg

IMG_6662 (resized).jpeg

I came to the same conclusion a few months ago when I needed to build another topper. I used Billy bass - it was like $12 shipped on eBay . He looks better than the replacement I got from planetary years ago. If you scroll up you’ll notice I took a few other liberties in the topper design. But his tail still knocks beautifully!