Hey everyone,

As I really enjoy reading other peoples homebrew pinball stories, I might as well start mine.
This has been in my head for a long time after building arcades, mini arcades and 2 little virtual tables, a hombrew pin for me is an ultimate diy project.

Coming from a music/recording background I of course want my pin to be based around .... ZOMBIES =) and music. Afterall you need some brainz to be in a band.

So far im waiting for CobraPin to arrive and meanwhile as a proof of concept I cut my plain whiteboard on my Lowrider CNC and added some mechs and lights just to get a hang of MPF lightshow programming and running some game modes virtually.

I quite enjoy laying out the playfield by hand and converting to CAD / Visual Pinball later, so the design is slowly growing on both fronts simultaneously.
So whatever you see on the picture is still just a test of how far I can strech 3d printing to be usable in a pinball prototype =) (yes, those rails flex, but surprisingly not enought to interfere with any balls below).

I have good friend and brilliant graphic artist on board with me ( https://www.behance.net/woodytroj ) so I hope we can turn this project into something quite special in the end.

Thats all from me for now, will follow up after I get those flippers moving.

Ondra

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the pic is during attract mode, of course GI is white when in game =)

Hey Stefan, thanks for the follow. I love your work on DBR. If you dont mind, I will ask you some questions when I run into trouble =) Now back to wiring switches...

Being busy with work, im slowly getting back to some progress. A shitty PSU caused me some problems with cobrapin. Solved by a new Meanwell. Here is my current state:

Bits and pieces of progress, made some 3d printed opto switches for orbit shots so i can spend more sleepless nights figuring out MPF and actually creating some modes.
Also got a servo diverter and droptarget/captiveball/balllock working, so the table can do its first multiball!!! YAAAAY!!!

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Another little update here:

working subway with vuk
working diverter to ball lock/captive ball drop target
moving toy head

I have just uploaded to thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349244
Honestly, I would have designed it differently if I was printing them now =)
I use 25mm x 2mm x 1000mm plastic strips from local hardware store for the prototype guides.

Yep, it was more of a test if it holds up and it does for a while before they start to break =)
I have it all modelled in fusion360 and printed and connected by similar brackets stefanmader mentioned in previous post.
But again, it only works as a prototype and right now Im figuring out how to make "real" wireforms - going with 3mm copper wire for easy shaping

I saw someones design modelled in a way you only use a short screw instead of going all the way through the whole thing. But these work too =)
I already had some generic 1mm (19ga) steel ballguides laser cut by a friend, so Im slowly ditching the plastic ones anyway.

And I added a lasercut steel loop/ramp which works perfectly, Im quite surprised =)
Now to get the damned wireforms done right .... sigh...

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Handrouting inserts isnt as bad as I thought i would be... so instead of developing code and redesigning playfield in CAD im making pretty holes =)
I laser cut the routing guides from 4mm ply, including a little 2mm insert to be able to do the troughhole smaller and create a lip the insert can sit on.
I 3d print the inserts from clear PETG. Its a better fit then what I got from using the round inserts and a forstner drill....
No back to figuring out how to make proper wireforms...

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Double sided tape, hasnt slipped once on the 6 inserts I have done so far...

I have a makita rt700c that I also use in my DIY CNC machine, its small enough to operate one handed (I also have a bulkier two handed router that i use rarely).
For the inserts I used the copy ring and an 8mm router bit similar to this ( https://admin.doktorkladivo.cz/upload/product-images/360x360/bosch-drazkovaci-freza-6.jpg)
The insert guides ar 0,7mm wider to accomodate for the copy ring.