Guardians of the Galaxy (LE)
Stern, 2017
Guardians of the Galaxy (Premium)
Stern, 2017
Guardians of the Galaxy (Pro)
Stern, 2017You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider steeltigers.
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Hi everyone,
I've been reading up and checking things out here on the gotg owners thread for a few weeks now. Lot of cool stuff going on in here and I decided to sign up and drop by as I'm a new GOTG Pro owner now. Just picked it up a few days ago. This is an October 2022 build...
gotg-0 (resized).jpggotg-1 (resized).jpggotg-2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Nice, congrats!
Welcome to the club.
Right on, thank you very much.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:Yeah, welcome to the club! I’m new as well. Mine has a build date of September 30th. Same date as my moms birthday. RIP momma! (She passed this year, so this machine is extra special to me). Get the green and orange flourescent plastic protectors for the slings and outlanes. It’s really the way the game should look, stock. Best $26 upgrade as far as looks go.
Thank you and you have my condolences to you and your family. Thanks, I have been eye balling those for a while now, I will end up getting a full set at some point. I recently picked up some art blades, lighted infinity stone, 5.25" speaker conversion kit with the KFC-1366S (looks like an LE setup), and a few other odds and ends.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:Kinda bummed on my September 30th build GoTG shooter lane I just discovered. Less than 200 plays (bought nib). The clearcoat chipped at the ball eject landing and is now physically smashing the bare wood down. Currently on hold for Stern support. Any tips on the best way to start a ticket with Stern on this? Pics below. And I was just about to order a pindefender on marketplace. Too late for that. New owners might take note.
Sorry to hear brother man! As a brand new owner, thank you for the heads up. I'm fanatical about keeping everything I own looking like new. And thanks to the other gentleman for suggesting the coil strength adjustment. Looks like I will be looking for a shooter lane protector too!
Quoted from Indypin:Damnit Man get off Pinside and install those mods!! Oh, and can you take pics of your pin once you get them installed pretty please!
You motivated me to do the first mod. LOL! I decided to do the speaker light kit first. De-soldered the generic 4" drivers, disassembled the factory brackets and installed the new 5.25" conversion kit. I always liked the look of some of the LE speaker systems. The KFC-1366S is still an entry level driver, but it should be an improvement.
gotg-7 (resized).jpggotg-8 (resized).jpggotg-9 (resized).jpggotg-9b (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballaddicted:Looks awesome. Congrats!
GOTGLE did not come out with 5.25" speakers or a decent sub. It came with what is on a premium or pro today.
Right on, thanks. Yeah, I noticed a while back when looking at the three models of gotg, they all had the speaker grill foam hiding what's behind them. I wanted the look of other LE machines. Pretty decent speaker/led mod kit for a 100, then add the Kenwood's for 40 and its not bad value at all.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:We did our LE too. Best value mod around.
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That looks really good! Holy smokes! One of these days I may ask you for a favor. I want a dead on level shot of the LE model badge. I got a 20w burner and want to turn a good image into vector and burn a Pro edition badge in the style of that LE one.
Quoted from Indypin:LOL Thanks for posting the pics. I'm a mod guy and I LOVE looking at what other pinheads do to their pins and gamerooms.
I got my GOTG pin after a trade for my TWD pin. I know GOTG has a fan layout similar to MET (which I own as well), but I love that fan layout and to me GOTG still feels different over MET. I installed the mods that you bought and I really like the smaller Groot hands on the pin. I don't know, I just like the way it looks like Groot is reaching out for you.
Also, if you can, try to install the Cleland sound package. The voice overs are good, but the addition of the music tracks really puts it over the top. In fact, I have my GOTG in my music row with IMDN, MET and Aerosmith (I miss Kiss, another fan layout similar to GOTG and MET), but shooting the balls into Groot is a lot more fun than shooting them into Gene's mouth (although I love the toy mold of Gene and the overall art package). You never get tired of hitting the balls into Groot's mouth, with him yelling I AM GROOT before shooting the balls back on the playfield which causes the magnet to mess with the direction of the balls. Excellent stuff!
Congrats on the purchase. Can't wait to see your finished "Promium" pin brutha.
My pleasure. I can relate to that, I'm currently soldering up a bunch of LEDs in a bunch of sizes from pico (ultra tiny chip) all the way up to 5mm dome for my pf toys. I'm kind of in a prototype mode to see what all I can stash inside of my diecasts after I modify them with my rotary tool.
I like the "fan" layout too. MM/MMr is the perfect example and one of the best designs for that style in my opinion. I wanted the Premium edition at one point, but the factory arms would take me a while to get used to. First time I played the premium, I was like holy hell I cant see my shot and it screwed with my geometry. But I can see it can be something one can get used to.
Speaking of Cleland's mod, I already have the 1.09 and p-browser. I been extracting resources with that from a lot of the game images and using a hex editor to find other values to tinker with. But looks like the factory is playing cat and mouse and starting to encrypt and sub classing their software to prevent extrapolation. Thanks again, and if you got pics of your mods, you know what to do.. 
Here is the Metal Orb and Crystal LED up close. The orbs have considerable weight to them and the LED has an actual crystal attached to the socket base. Although I might have an issue with the LED, unless being loose on the socket is normal? Has anyone purchased this version of Orb from HOP and can verify?
gotg-10 (resized).jpggotg-11 (resized).jpggotg-12 (resized).jpggotg-13 (resized).jpgQuoted from Vaughn:Does anyone know where to find ramp decals for GOTG ? I saw them on a LE model currently for sale and was curious as to where I could get them.
If you haven't already, you can download the Guardians Premium/LE user manual and find the part numbers. Alternatively, I have the part numbers here, however as to where to purchase them, if they are available, I would think you could get the from a distributor.
#13) 820-1035-70 DECAL #70, GOTG LE
#15) 820-1035-71 DECAL #71, GOTG LE
Not sure if this is any help, but this is the best I can do at the moment.
Quoted from big-c66:Look on MARCO PINBALL THEY had the plastic set n playfield sticker’s in stock I was just on there yesterday.
They do have a plastics pf kit for the premium, and they have pro model cabinet art, but no plastic ramp decals for the LE.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Yeah, I’ve got the little one mounted in my game right now, but will also be putting in the larger one. Where you going to put it?
I'm not sure yet. I'm waiting on various length 8-32 hex stand off's and spacers to arrive so I can determine the height, placement and angle of attack and where it might end up. I'm leaning towards these areas in this image...
gotg-15 (resized).jpg
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Nice, I have the smaller one installed right now on the middle left location. I temporally had it centered right above Groots head and it looked decent there. I had thought about adding LEDs and tying them to the skill shot lights, but I have a Gamora figure up in that ramp that makes it a bit cluttered there. Now thinking with the LEDs I might tie them to the ball save timer lights.
I’m also trying to find a way to add in the Nova Corps ship, which is also huge. Some cutting would be involved, but that’s where I thought the Milano and the Star Blaster could work in the lower left and right locations you are showing.
Do the LED's on the bigger Milano like this one here. I'm pleased with the results! If you don't have time to create your own LED circuit, you can source pre-made led looms ready to rock! I do like the fact with a little drilling and slight cutting I was able to get the LEDs to come right out the main plasma drives (engines) under the main wing. Everything is tucked inside the diecast for a nice super clean factory look with only one wire loom coming out of belly of the fuselage. The LED I put together was a 3mm dome and has a 5-12v dc operating range. I'm using a 472nm blue color. Next I'm gonna seal the inside cavity and wire leads inside a bath of hot wax. Check it out, new for 2023...
gotg-16 (resized).jpggotg-17 (resized).jpggotg-18 (resized).jpggotg-19 (resized).jpggotg-20 (resized).jpgQuoted from CoolCatPinball:That's pretty sweet! Where did you find the larger Milano?
Right on, thanks! You guys will want the Disney Parks 2022 Guardians Of The Galaxy Cosmic Rewind Milano Diecast Vehicle. They were exclusive at the theme park shops in Orlando, FL.. But, you can find them on eBay along with other gotg space ships & paraphernalia. Use the search phrase "Cosmic Rewind Milano" on eBay.
Check out the size difference and detail than that of the HotWheels version and ya don't have any external wiring holding up other wiring like on some of the others I have seen out in the retail mod market.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Super cool. I have the LED looms in various colors ready to go. What tips to you have for opening it up?
The bigger Milano from Disney was built in two parts (upper and a lower half) and it's held together by one single Phillips head screw and two retaining posts. All ya have to do is un-screw it at the (red arrow), and kind of pry the upper and lower pieces apart. Then, at the (blue arrows) use a 5/32 drill bit to drill out the "shelf" on the base of the post receptacles and I used a cutting wheel attachment on the posts (white arrows) on the upper half of the diecast body to get rid of the post stays. Then I just ran a stone grinder to clean up the burring from the cutting wheel and drill bit. I used a Dremel rotary tool and a battery powered drill. Took less than 2 minutes to get it ready for an LED. Enjoy!!!
gotg-22 (resized).jpg
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Very do-able. I’m on it! Now I just need to think about what color
I went with blue because of the movie shows a lot of blue surrounding the exhaust. Check this out, with this second Milano I added 4 smd chips on the rear port and starboard thrusters and 2 domes on the main engines. I might go ahead and led up all 8 engines, depends on how motivated I am. I'm thinking I would have to drill a tunnel over to the outer engines and fish a smaller smd pico through it to get to the last two engines. Still pretty much a proof of concept at this point.
gotg-23 (resized).jpggotg-24 (resized).jpgQuoted from TicTacSeth:That is some serious lighting, and way above my ambition level haha.
Lol!!! These smd's are sized for HO and N scale dioramas. They are small enough that the light dispersal looks like individual light sources as appose to one blob of obnoxious light. I will find a balance, this is why I have a half dozen Milano's to test with...
On another note,
I got a question for those who installed the metal scoop protector plate. Did you have to remove the right side exit ramp to install the scoop protector? Looks I might be able to get to it without removing it, but want an opinion from someone who installed it, thanks!
*Edit* Disregard, found the search bar and read up on it.
Quoted from JonCBrand:I'm in the club tried to find one reasonable local no luck so NIB it was will be here Dec 14th. Now I need to power through 7.4k posts.
Very cool! I just purchased my Guardians Pro a couple weeks ago, love it. What model did you get? Welcome to the club and posts some pics when you get yours.
For those who haven't installed the RT Scoop Eject Protector before, this is a pretty simple procedure. Once you remove the clear RT Side Exit Ramp and related fasteners & spacers, remove the corresponding multi-level artwork plastic from between the RT Side Orbit and Shooter Lane. Then it's just a matter of two machine screws.
Keep in mind that the two machine screws is what holds the entire RT Scoop Eject Assembly to the bottom side of the playfield. So you have to prevent the Scoop Eject from falling through the playfield when removing the screws, in order to install the Scoop (Stern reference #535-1663-00) Protector.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Cliffy is working on a new protector as well, which is a little stronger than the Stern version, has his 45-degree angles on the flaps that extend into the hole, and even has a bit of metal that is anchored to that metal post on the back left for a bit of extra stability. He may be ready with his version pretty soon.
That's good news and sounds very robust. I reached out to him via email the other day about the availability of a complete protector set.
Quoted from JonCBrand:Game was delivered today.
Not happy to see service rails gone.
Oct 4th 2022 build date
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Right on congratulations! I know right - I ordered the standard service rails for mine. You and I have the same build dates...
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:is the mini LCD just mirroring what is on the screen?
For now, yes (which is useless and redundant imo) it was just an initial test with an 8-bit lvds passthrough converter board, like the ones streamers use to capture video from the CN6 header. My plan is to chop up some cut scenes from the movie, re-render a looping video using a different driver board.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Depending on your chosen player, you may be able to have it change between clips, based on a simple sound or light trigger. Keep us posted.
Interesting idea. Would have to figure out how to get the input/output trigger working. My guess, would be to have some code looking for a trigger event and then have some script to call a keyframe marker from the source video
Quoted from bigguybbr:I messed around with the same thing when I toyed around and put a larger screen on a home pin.
That was a nice project. Thank you for sharing. You still have that JP-HE?
Quoted from Markharris2000:There are a ton of 50-cent light or sound sensors that would provide a logic level signal if they detect something. Put that sensor close to a flasher or coil and it would trigger pretty easily without any direct connection needed. What player are you thinking of using? Something RPi or Arduino?
Honestly, I'm entry level enthusiast with RPi and Arduino. However, I do think RPi would be the way to go. Arduino is more of a hardware level mc. Sounds like you're the person to talk to in this endeavor. Mind if we talk a little more about this? DM?
Quoted from bigguybbr:I do still have it. I love that game. The geometry is fantastic and it is fast and flowy. It's too bad more people don't have an opportunity to try the home pins. Both JP and the SW ones are a lot of fun.
Nice. That's what I like to hear as I have an op to purchase a pre-owned one locally...
Quoted from pghpinfan:Is there a preferred Cleland code - V1 or V2?
The last mod version I'm aware of is 1.09. DM Cleland for a DL link.
Quoted from pghpinfan:In the club! Will have to go back and watch SKWilson streams to learn the game!
Welcome and congrats. I'm a new owner as well. Love it and I'm having a lot of fun playing around with mods for it . Enjoy!
Quoted from KING-HENRY:are these the Stern speaker lights? I don't know much about the upgrade kit..does it come with these lights, or is this a different addon? I want a pair of those!
I got mine from Doug over at speaker light kits dot com. I went with the 5.25" combo kit and used the Kenwood KFC-1366S 5.25" drivers for the "Stern" look. The SPIKE 2 Speaker Surround set color is Light Blue so it matches the blue t-molding on the backbox. Comes with a remote control and you can choose a myriad of color schemes and chase scenes. Look for 5.25" SPIKE 2 Speaker Plate set and Deluxe 5.25" Speaker Light Kit COMBO on his website or email him and tell him what ya want...
gotg-8 (resized).jpggotg-9 (resized).jpgQuoted from JonCBrand:Any DIY or Mod options out there to tilt the scoop billboard back?
[quoted image]
I did the unthinkable on mine. I bent the L-shaped brackets and cut a notch in the plastic. I do not recommend this method as it's destructive, but I also have a spare set of pf plastics, so I took the easy route...
gotg-30 (resized).jpgQuoted from JonCBrand:Installing Mezel mods orb insert. It's a tight fit with orb halves loose. Looks like the right side half is cast weird compared to left side. Not on mezel mods at all. Anyone run into this? Thinking about pulling that right side orb and sanding it flat hoping to save decal.
Chip marks under decal were "factory". I should be able to sand it down.
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I purchased the same mezel mod. However, after I disassembled the factory orb and noticed the inner design was a bubbled up and pealing off decal, I abandoned that idea and went for the all metal led orb from hop.
gotg-28 (resized).jpgQuoted from VirtualMayhem:Also have the issue with the right orbit not delivering the ball to the flipper it bounces off the top of the right sling. While I have the plastic off for the scoop protector it looks clear to me in the picture the metal guide isn’t lined up right it’s pressed in. I see screws behind it I can get to with the plastic off - can that orbit metal guide be adjusted a bit via the screws behind it?
[quoted image]
It's about like this once you get the right exit ramp disassembled.
gotg-31 (resized).jpggotg-33 (resized).jpggotg-34 (resized).jpggotg-35 (resized).jpgQuoted from VirtualMayhem:Also have the issue with the right orbit not delivering the ball to the flipper it bounces off the top of the right sling.
As for the right side orbit, add some Mylar along the rail. Which if you go thick enough, it will divert the ball to the flipper. Also, the orbit is only adjustable as far as the play between the wood screws and the attachment hole on the rail fastener, which isn't much at all, but you might be able to use the play between the two and push it as far left as you can and re-torque the wood screws. Lastly, if those methods don't work for you, you can bend the rail with an adjustable open end wrench and gently give it the slightest of curve - just enough to divert the ball to your desired location.
gotg-36 (resized).jpgQuoted from mannymasy:hello friends again in the club, this time with a NIB... what a great machine!!!!
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Looking good my man. Enjoy and if you mod that bad boy out, drop some pictures...
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:Want to make sure I’m looking at this right so I circled in green what I think needs to be removed. Did you remove the right ramp entirely? I see one nut in the second picture you can’t get to with the ramp in the way.
Oh - by the way, make sure you clearly mark each of the three hex stand off's when you remove them, re-assembly can be a brain teaser if you do not remember the length of each one as you remove them. See image...
gotg-37 (resized).jpgQuoted from Meadows22:I'm having some issues with my orb shot if anyone has any suggestions. Drop target moves freely. Once I trap the ball, the drop target tries to release it but fails. I contacted stern there suggestion was to bend the assembly upwards. Anyways, that didn't do the trick and I do have a space between the drop target and the trip bar. No idea why I can't figure this one out.
Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:Remove that spring in the flap the magnet pulls. Problem solved. It does not need a spring, gravity will let it fall.
The spring adds too much resistance for that little magnet.
Remove the spring. Problem solved.
You are welcome
The spring is there to prevent magnetic transference to the armature. Over time it will become magnetized and it can and will stick to the relay coil randomly and the spring prevents this.
Just installed the Gen 2 Guardians Cliffy set. Started with the trough ball eject and shooter lane. The shooter lane is rather easy, you just unscrew the wood rail from the playfield and gently pull up to make a gap, slide in the shooter lane protector, line up the holes for the screws then tighten them back up.
cliffy-ball-eject-1jpg (resized).jpg
cliffy-ball-eject-2 (resized).jpg
cliffy-shooter-lane (resized).jpg
The center drop target requires you to remove the drop target assembly from the bottom of the playfield. Since there was a already a hole to fasten the protector, I opted to drill a hole into the bottom of the playfield to secure the drop target protector.
cliffy-center-drop-target-1 (resized).jpg
If you use a depth gauge on your drill bit, you'll never punch through the top of the playfield. I used a piece of copper tape to mark my depth.
drill-depth-guide (resized).jpg
Screwed in the protector, re-mounted the drop target assembly, done deal.
cliffy-center-drop-target-complete (resized).jpg
cliffy-center-drop-target-2 (resized).jpg
Last but not least, the trough. All you do here is loosen the 6 wood screws that secure the trough just enough to make a gap between the playfield and the trough, slide in the protector between them and re-torque the screws.
Now it's time to fire up the game for the first time...
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:I can seem to win with this pin Started to play a few games tonight and noticed that the drop target was suddenly going up/down like crazy after dropping it then hitting the target behind it. Discovered that the rubber ring solution I had installed actually broke - luckily I ordered a few extra and just replaced it. My guess is the notch I cut in the ring was a bit too deep and it ended up failing..
Sooo now hitting groots mouth it isn't opening. The light in front of it flashes but it doesn't drop. At one point it dropped partially but was still above the playfield where only a lucky shot would bounce into it. Mouth closed fine at the end of the game. The switch test in the menu for the groot mouth definitely doesn't work. Any ideas what to look for??
I think you called it. Start with the switches: STERN #180-5119-02 MICRO-SWITCH, replace if necessary.
Quoted from Hipgnosis:Hey all. Newby here. I've had a Guardians of the Galaxy machine for a few years and am looking for standard maintenance advice. Also where to pick up a 3/4" rubber ring to fix the drop target issue. I do have a crack in the plastic under the orb. I figure putting a protector on that now will help it not break off, but was also wondering where to find a replacement piece.
Sorry if this 1st post is awkward...
Hello...
Depending on what model Guardians you have, I suggest you go to the Stern Pinball website and hit up the Guardians product page and download the respective manuals for your model. This will give you all the resources to all aspects of the machine. Setup and maintenance, parts references, diagnostics, etc..
If you want to dive deeper into the machine, download the SPIKE-System manual from the Stern website. Lot's of information for updating game code and troubleshooting. It's an all around good read and ties together with the game manual.
As for finding replacement parts, check out Marco, Planetary, Pinball Life, plenty of others. This image is from page 8 of the Pro Edition Manual. Explains the maintenance regiment perfectly.
500-55L5-01 (resized).jpgQuoted from VirtualMayhem:I read in this thread a recommended setting for the ball trough eject power to reduce the impact - anyone have that handy?
Click menu button twice / Adjustments / GOTG / Feature Adjustment #58 - 200 is default, 176 is lowest setting.
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:Nice - so this connects via alligator clips under the playfield correct? Did you have to remove the orb plastics beneath it to install or was it unscrew factory orb, install new one and fish the wire through the gap to connect it underneath?
Here a few mods you guys might be interested in:
Speaker Mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/148#post-7266717
Orb Mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/148#post-7264655
Milano Mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/149#post-7272651
LCD Mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-owners-thread/page/151#post-7294667
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:5/32 hex t handle wrench did the trick - that was crazy tight!
I replaced the motor with the new one from Stern. First 5 or so tests in the diagnostic menu works fine then the motor just stopped working. Switches in the mechanism working fine - what are the chances I have a second bad motor??
Did you re-connect and orientate the jaw crank arm to the motor correctly? Did it find home and away positions correctly when you first re-installed it?
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:What is the proper orientation of the crank arm? I had the arm blew the groot jaw mechanism that is raised and lowered by the arm. I left the hex wrench in the set screw to ensure I didn’t drop the arm and it’s definitely not upside down. When I turned the pin on I immediately went into the test menu - perhaps I didn’t let it auto calibrate? Should I take it apart again and retry assembly?
This is what orientation the crank arm should be in with the jaw in at home position. Double check and make sure it looks like the images.
crank-arm-1 (resized).jpgcrank-arm-2 (resized).jpgQuoted from VirtualMayhem:Looks like the crank arm is parallel to the playfield and right behind the mechanism that moves the jaw. With the game off mine is resting at almost 90 degrees to the right. I’ll take it apart and reattach to crank arm. Should I wait a few minutes after turning pin on for it to find “home”, start a game??
[quoted image]
Mine sit's at the 1 o'clock position from the motor shaft when at home. However, not sure this is your problem. It's not un-heard of, having to procure 2-3 of the same warranty parts from Stern before the replacement actually works. Give it a shot and see what happens.
Quoted from PinPickle:Also… does this mod do anything other than mirror the LCD?
And… what’s the go-to mod for the pro Orb?
Thx
At that time was just mirroring, since then I had a bunch of ideas and tried most of them. After mounting it on the left exit ramp, I have since mounted it on underneath the apron, where the rules card went. Right now it's still morphing into something else, lol. Since then, it has changed a hand full of times as to what I actually want it to do. Still working on some logic, scripts and code using some sensors to trigger events.
As for the Orb, I went with HOP version. Last image shows the difference between oem and the hop orb.
gotg-41 (resized).jpggotg-42 (resized).jpggotg-43 (resized).jpggotg-44 (resized).jpggotg-46 (resized).jpggotg-45 (resized).jpgQuoted from Duster72:Is there anything I can do about the rocket kickback going SDTM? I didn't see a ball save in the menu. Any other suggestions?
If all else fails, there is just enough play between the screws and kickback bracket mounts, that you can get about .25 degree trajectory change by loosening up the wood screws and re-orientate the kick assembly, and angle it more towards the flipper, then re-torque the screws. (Keep in mind this is not an adjustment, nor is it adjustable) It's just the play between the screws and bracket which has a tolerance margin that you can manipulate the orientation that will reduce sdtm.
Quoted from Fifty: Question for anyone that has done a teardown on their machine.
1) I have a broken plastic (no biggie), but if anyone has a spare they want to sell please send me a PM.
[quoted image]
These days, you might have to order a complete set in order the get that particular part, unfortunately. I ordered a set from a distributor back in December 2022, but it took almost two months to receive them.
Quoted from Fifty:2) I am guessing I am missing a spacer here (circled in green)? It makes sense that there should be one there. Is there a part number or does anyone know the size before I dig out my calipers? I didn't see it listed in the manual.
[quoted image]
Yes, it's the same size as the other spacer. Measure the one you have and you will know the specs.
Quoted from Markharris2000:If anyone has one of them, UPKICK would be able to knock a clear one off pretty quick with a simple tracing. Anyone have a unit diassasembled that could trace it?
I can help with that I have a complete set...
Quoted from Markharris2000:If anyone has one of them, UPKICK would be able to knock a clear one off pretty quick with a simple tracing. Anyone have a unit diassasembled that could trace it?
This image is 1 : 1 when enlarged to native size.
But as far as the spacer, OP should just measure it since he has it apart and has calipers...
gotg-no-26 (resized).jpgQuoted from Markharris2000:If you could draw a 1-inch x 1-inch square on the same paper (to confirm scale/magnif) and then post it, the orig poster can send it over to Upkick (in Texas) and they can make it up at a low cost, but the CPR9999 version is pretty sweet, a little more protections, as a great replacement too.
After studying OP's images, it looks like the main that was broke. Anyway, if anyone needs a template, there ya go...
gotg-main-orb-plastic (resized).jpgQuoted from bigguybbr:Thanks SteelTigers for the heads up on the side armor. It looks good on the pro.
Love it!!! My set arrives tomorrow...
Quoted from Fifty:Let me know wha the most difficult bit is when you're done. They are these ones correct?
https://www.pinballlife.com/guardians-of-the-galaxy-officially-licensed-custom-side-armor-set.html
Yes, indeed, those are the ones in the link...
The installation is straight forward, the armor kit comes with instructions and fasteners. The box they came in, is very robust with excellent packing material to protect the contents.
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