In the club... Greetings from overseas

Dan

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Z

I'm trying to take my Guardians Pro back to stock everything temporarily so I can add insider connect, and update to 1.11. Currently has no insider, has 1.07 code, and Cleland sound. Am I correct in thinking if I update to 1.11 via USB, my Cleland SD card will have to be swapped out? I don't have the original. Game came to me w Cleland already installed. Yes, I plan on going back to Cleland once 1.11 is available. Question cross posted in the sound mod thread already. Thanks!

You can just leave the sd card you have in the game and update it.

If you update to Factory code 1.11 from USB, it will overwrite the SDCARD regardless of what existing code it's running. Then you will have a factory 1.11 machine. In the future, if a custom code is made available, that can be swapped in by replacing the (now) factory 1.11 sdcard with a custom 1.11AV card.

Ahhhhh!!! Awesome!! That makes this sooo much easier. Thank you both!!! I've done USB updates plenty of times (on other Stern machines), but never messed with the SD.

Picking up a few 32GB or 64GB SD cards when they're on sale at Best Buy for $10 or less is a good idea. That way you can have a stock install and a cleland install and switch between them in the time it takes to power off, swap cards, and reboot.

Does anyone know of a source for the replacement stickers used on the inside of the two halves of the ORB? I have a Pinmonk orb mod kit, and it requires the factory stickers to be lifted and then replaced a bit later. I would like to see if a set of stickers is available in case the adhesive is less than cooperative when pulled and then reapplied.

You'll be fine. As long as you lay the stickers out with the adhesive face up so the adhesive doesn't get corrupted while they're off the orb for 10 minutes when you're flipping the brackets, they go right back on like they were never off. If you have an issue, I can send you a couple cutouts of 467MP to adhere them even better, but it won't be necessary. I've done three of these myself and they all go back on fine. If you have an issue, definitely contact me, but you won't.

Read through key posts regarding the Groot mouth but not sure if my issue is similar or not and whether it warrants a new motor or something else. The switches read just fine, but the motor is moving the mouth too far past the switch points so it will go all the way down and then come back up about halfway, similarly when closing it will close and then open itself back up a bit. Given the switch test reads properly would a bad motor be causing this or should I be looking to diagnose the board that drives it?

I think there is a adjustment that when the mouth is open its level with the playfield could that be your problem??

A software adjustment or a hardware one? It's a pretty significant amount off currently, when in the test mode for the mouth it will hit the switch and then keep moving about halfway (almost like the motor doesn't know to fully stop when the up or down switch is actuated).

Bend the switch arms a little so it triggers the switch more fully sooner to stop the mouth. The switches are the only way the motor knows where the mouth is.

That’s exactly what mine does when the motor needs replacement. You could manually move the jaw and feel if it needs replacement. It will slip from the motor not working correctly.

Just put up my best cherry bomb yet. Had multipliers on almost every shot and hit the super twice. Drained out on the star Lord shot to begin Save Xandar

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Cherry bomb multiball is such an adrenaline rush

For sure! I don't get why it is so much more intense than other multiballs in other games. Maybe that it is timed, and it 6 balls? Maybe it's that opening and closing super. Whatever it is, I love it.

Nice job man

Se puede desactivar las voces de la película en el código cleland y dejar solo la música? Hay alguna opción en el menú? Si es así podéis decirme cuál es? Solo está en inglés y no lo distingo.gracias

Si - “feature adjustment” #55

Thanks...lo probare mañana.

Custom music code based on Stern 1.11 for Pro/Premium/LE now available.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guardians-of-the-galaxy-pomc-remix#post-7435073

No encuentro el archivo en ese enlace.

Apron Decals available on Pinside Market place.

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I like them

I've had my GotG Pro since its original run in late 2017. Upon turning it on yesterday I got a message saying there was an error on node board 8. When I look at that board I see that the 48V LED is lit up, but neither the 6V or the boot LEDs are. I noticed a few people mentioned a terminating resistor should be in the last board of the lineup, but that is absent from my board.

Is there anything that can be done to troubleshoot this board before ordering a new one? I've tried re-seating the cat5 cables, without any luck.

I'm running Cleland's 1.06 code and haven't ever had any issues like this before. Stern tech support did reply to my request fairly quickly, but just said to replace the whole node board. I'm in Canada so the cost of the boards shipped to me is pretty steep for a random failure.

Thanks

Took the board off tonight and had a closer look. Seems like this chip shouldn't be melted. Can't say if this is a result of the root cause failure or if this chip itself was the problem. It is listed as a voltage regulator chip.

Anyone know if this is worth pursuing a repair or is a replacement my only option?

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That is great work. It is a voltage reducing chip and that is the main component that fails on Strern node boards. If you want to try fixing it yourself, I suggest you get online and find some chips to buy. Find yourself a phone repair man and ask him to swap out the chip for you. Get him to check the diodes related to the chip as well. See how you go!

Else just buy a new board.

Need some help please!

Yesterday I installed a Pinstadium kit on my machine. I hooked up the UV trigger to the drop target flasher via alligator clips where I also had an aftermarket orb light hooked up. I was careful to make sure the alligator clips were not touching. This caused a Node 9 overcurrent warning. I attempted to troubleshoot this with Scott from Pinstadium and never figured out what was causing the problem. I decided to just forget about it for the time being. Unfortunately after finishing up my installation after a couple of games Groot's opto started malfunctioning. When you shoot a ball in the machine doesn't recognize it. When you turn the machine on it now repeatedly attempts to eject a ball that isn't there and eventually displays "Groot Lockup Device Malfunction."

I would appreciate some troubleshooting suggestions. I don't know if I somehow fried the opto board or the Node 9 board. I was pretty careful when installing the Pinstadium triggers but I could have made a mistake.

Borygard should be able to repair that for you. He can fix a lot of node board problems. Even if you buy another node board, it's worth it to have a working spare, and I think he'll be able to get it fixed and back to you before Stern can get you a new one (most likely). Send him a PM and see what his backlog is like.

Do you know if he can also repair a bad LVDS connector on a CPU board? I replaced mine for that reason a year or so ago, but would love to get it repaired to have as a spare.

I'm 95% sure he could. I assume you broke a pin or something, and new connectors are widely available. Hit him up with a PM. If he can, post when you get your repaired one back and tag me so I know he can do those too and can recommend him if that comes up again in the future.

I'd try to check to see if the transmitter optos have power to them, you may be able to look at them with your cellphone camera to see if they are glowing or test for DCV on their legs to see if they have power or not.

Just a though but maybe post this in the blog-type thread that ChrisHibler started, it would be great to have on thread on various repairs / issues that we find on these boards. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-node-board-repair-blog

EDIT: Looks like Mouser has those in stock: https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/power-management-ics/voltage-regulators-voltage-controllers/?q=MP24943&b=Monolithic%20Power%20Systems%20%28MPS%29&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk7ugBhDIARIsAGuvgPavMhML5TYkKSUGH7AsBXF

Even if you don't have a hot air station you can usually remove smaller chips like that by solder-blobbing all the legs together on each side and just keep moving the iron tip back and forth until you can pull up the chip with tweezers. Then clean the pads up with a sucker or wick and solder the new one on.

Heads up.
This technique (solder blob) might work, but the main obstacle to removing this and other voltage regulators that Stern used is to heat the part sufficiently (either from top/bottom/both) so that the exposed pad on the bottom of the chip releases it's solder joint from the board ground pad. It takes a lot of heat to do that. It's a non-trivial job even when not in that tight of a space.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I didn't realize that chip had a ground pad under it, thanks for the info!

I'm looking for some help dialing in my pro. I'm bricking shots regularly. Set up game at 6.8 degrees and level when I unboxed it. I have not checked since so I will do that in the morning. All stock settings. I'm generally late on the shot hitting left of shot from right flipper and vice versa. It's probably me but would like some input. I've hit 7B regularly on Rush so I think I'm an OK player.
Maybe increase flipper power to get the ball off the flipper sooner?

Guardians has some of the tightest shots in pinball. Rocket is tough. The best thing to consider when dialing in this pin is to think about the orb shot. Just make sure that when it releases the ball that the magnet somewhat affects it, then you will know it is dialed in correctly..

When orb drop releases I get a good swing back and forth and a random release. I can hit rocket, orb, and orbits 75% obviously Groot is easy, Ramps are my issue. I'll try adjusting pitch before I go deeper. When I'm hitting shots it's fantastic but on an off day it leaves me bitter. That's probably a sign of a good pin. Love/hate

Have a friend, that’s also good at pinball, try the ramp shots. Good to have a second or even third shooter for comparison.

I have GOTG and I agree shots are tight. I can get my ramp shots going pretty well though and I love nailing the right ramp off the first plunge for a skill shot.

Good luck!

Precision flippers and a very slight droop solved this for me.

Was far behind on the thread and finally caught up.

Stranger Things has always been my #1 but GOTG has been getting the majority of my time lately. Game is perfect!

I have the pro with the silhouette chopper, but I don’t like it because it’s right beside my TWD topper and it’s silhouette as well. I’m gonna get that tape above the machine.

I have reached cherry bomb a few times but nothing further. Rocket shot is TIGHT!

Still trying to figure out if I go left side or right side first but it’s usually left side.

I did find something interesting show up on my playfield. Anyone know where it’s from??

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Also… does this mod do anything other than mirror the LCD?

And… what’s the go-to mod for the pro Orb?

Thx

That's a spotlight bulb retainer Clip. Check your spotlights and make sure they are all secure. Not sure how that would have come loose unless a spotlight screw backed out.

I recently added Pinmonk’s orb mod and it is a step up for sure. Easy to install. I had considered the HookedOn metal cast version, but it didn’t look much different than factory, but it was nice too.

Mmm I did change a couple rubbers and removed the spotlight screw on the left ramp. Never noticed it at all. Weird.

Thank you. I will check it all out.

perfect thanks. Love pinmonks mods.

At that time was just mirroring, since then I had a bunch of ideas and tried most of them. After mounting it on the left exit ramp, I have since mounted it on underneath the apron, where the rules card went. Right now it's still morphing into something else, lol. Since then, it has changed a hand full of times as to what I actually want it to do. Still working on some logic, scripts and code using some sensors to trigger events.

As for the Orb, I went with HOP version. Last image shows the difference between oem and the hop orb.

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Is there anything I can do about the rocket kickback going SDTM? I didn't see a ball save in the menu. Any other suggestions?

The power settings, the left v right angle, There is setting for ball save you can turn on.... Worst case scenario is you can very carefully sand down very slightly the tip of the kickback. You can also adjust the whole unit slightly under the playfield. All depends on how comfortable you are with your pins.