(Topic ID: 201799)

Guardians of the Galaxy owner's thread

By Blacksun

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by mannymasy
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14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7,748 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 155.
#7701 4 days ago

Cliffy's has arrived...

gotg-39 (resized).jpg
#7702 4 days ago

Added speaker lights tonight. Will tackle the scoop protector and pop bumper plastics later in the week when the parts arrive. Decided to mess around with the pop bumpers given I have to take the ramp off anyways for the scoop.

#7703 4 days ago

Just installed the Gen 2 Guardians Cliffy set. Started with the trough ball eject and shooter lane. The shooter lane is rather easy, you just unscrew the wood rail from the playfield and gently pull up to make a gap, slide in the shooter lane protector, line up the holes for the screws then tighten them back up.
cliffy-ball-eject-1jpg (resized).jpg

cliffy-ball-eject-2 (resized).jpg

cliffy-shooter-lane (resized).jpg

The center drop target requires you to remove the drop target assembly from the bottom of the playfield. Since there was a already a hole to fasten the protector, I opted to drill a hole into the bottom of the playfield to secure the drop target protector.

cliffy-center-drop-target-1 (resized).jpg

If you use a depth gauge on your drill bit, you'll never punch through the top of the playfield. I used a piece of copper tape to mark my depth.

drill-depth-guide (resized).jpg

Screwed in the protector, re-mounted the drop target assembly, done deal.

cliffy-center-drop-target-complete (resized).jpg

cliffy-center-drop-target-2 (resized).jpg

Last but not least, the trough. All you do here is loosen the 6 wood screws that secure the trough just enough to make a gap between the playfield and the trough, slide in the protector between them and re-torque the screws.

cliffy-trough-1 (resized).jpg

Now it's time to fire up the game for the first time...

#7704 3 days ago

I have the MezelMods CLiP protector set on the way. My game is a new run that shipped with the metal bar above the orb drop target, same as the photo in the post above. Once the plastic protector is on can I remove that bar or should it be left on? Curious what others have done. Thanks.

#7705 3 days ago
Quoted from SteelTigers:

Just installed the Gen 2 Guardians Cliffy set. Started with the trough ball eject and shooter lane. The shooter lane is rather easy, you just unscrew the wood rail from the playfield and gently pull up to make a gap, slide in the shooter lane protector, line up the holes for the screws then tighten them back up.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The center drop target requires you to remove the drop target assembly from the bottom of the playfield. Since there was a already a hole to fasten the protector, I opted to drill a hole into the bottom of the playfield to secure the drop target protector.
[quoted image]
If you use a depth gauge on your drill bit, you'll never punch through the top of the playfield. I used a piece of copper tape to mark my depth.
[quoted image]
Screwed in the protector, re-mounted the drop target assembly, done deal.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Last but not least, the trough. All you do here is loosen the 6 wood screws that secure the trough just enough to make a gap between the playfield and the trough, slide in the protector between them and re-torque the screws.
[quoted image]
Now it's time to fire up the game for the first time...

Nicely done John but I should say the drop target screw is totally optional. The spring tension is usually enough to keep it in place. The hole is there if needed for thinner than usual playfields however.
I should have sent my new Star Lord scoop protector for you to install and document as well but, alas, you got your set before I made the new scoop
Thanks much!

#7706 3 days ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

I have the MezelMods CLiP protector set on the way. My game is a new run that shipped with the metal bar above the orb drop target, same as the photo in the post above. Once the plastic protector is on can I remove that bar or should it be left on? Curious what others have done. Thanks.

Interesting my new run Guardians doesn't have the metal bar behind the orb drop target? Hmmm.

#7707 3 days ago
Quoted from SteelTigers:

The spring is there to prevent magnetic transference to the armature. Over time it will become magnetized and it can and will stick to the relay coil randomly and the spring prevents this.

I don’t know about these drop target solutions that require adding and removing parts. When you remove it from the playfield to inspect the assembly, look to see that the rocker (part#27) isn’t binding against the top of the bracket (part #1). In my case I needed to bend the main bracket up slightly to provide clearance and it has worked without issue for several thousand games. Note mine is a 2016 build.

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#7708 3 days ago

noticed the below today on my few month old Gotg Pro from the last run. Ive had the scoop protector sitting uninstalled forever but seeing this finally gave me the motivation to install. By the way this looks bad but all the wood is actually stable. I feel like they filled it with glue or something. And with the protector now in im not worried.
I thought the protector install was going to be a pain in the ass but it was pretty straight forward. Didnt need to take the mech off from the bottom, just needed to remove the plastic around the mech on top. Easy and it sits perfectly flush.

20230123_231756668_iOS (resized).jpg
#7709 3 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I don’t know about these drop target solutions that require adding and removing parts. When you remove it from the playfield to inspect the assembly, look to see that the rocker (part#27) isn’t binding against the top of the bracket (part #1). In my case I needed to bend the main bracket up slightly to provide clearance and it has worked without issue for several thousand games. Note mine is a 2016 build.
[quoted image][quoted image]

My new build had the issue after only 50 plays. I slightly bent the main bracket like you did and it’s been working fine since. I tried the other fixes mentioned in the thread first but they seemed to make the problem worse.

#7710 3 days ago

I can seem to win with this pin Started to play a few games tonight and noticed that the drop target was suddenly going up/down like crazy after dropping it then hitting the target behind it. Discovered that the rubber ring solution I had installed actually broke - luckily I ordered a few extra and just replaced it. My guess is the notch I cut in the ring was a bit too deep and it ended up failing..

Sooo now hitting groots mouth it isn't opening. The light in front of it flashes but it doesn't drop. At one point it dropped partially but was still above the playfield where only a lucky shot would bounce into it. Mouth closed fine at the end of the game. The switch test in the menu for the groot mouth definitely doesn't work. Any ideas what to look for??

#7711 3 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

I can seem to win with this pin Started to play a few games tonight and noticed that the drop target was suddenly going up/down like crazy after dropping it then hitting the target behind it. Discovered that the rubber ring solution I had installed actually broke - luckily I ordered a few extra and just replaced it. My guess is the notch I cut in the ring was a bit too deep and it ended up failing..
Sooo now hitting groots mouth it isn't opening. The light in front of it flashes but it doesn't drop. At one point it dropped partially but was still above the playfield where only a lucky shot would bounce into it. Mouth closed fine at the end of the game. The switch test in the menu for the groot mouth definitely doesn't work. Any ideas what to look for??

I think you called it. Start with the switches: STERN #180-5119-02 MICRO-SWITCH, replace if necessary.

#7712 3 days ago

Hey all. Newby here. I've had a Guardians of the Galaxy machine for a few years and am looking for standard maintenance advice. Also where to pick up a 3/4" rubber ring to fix the drop target issue. I do have a crack in the plastic under the orb. I figure putting a protector on that now will help it not break off, but was also wondering where to find a replacement piece.

Sorry if this 1st post is awkward...

#7713 3 days ago
Quoted from Hipgnosis:

Hey all. Newby here. I've had a Guardians of the Galaxy machine for a few years and am looking for standard maintenance advice. Also where to pick up a 3/4" rubber ring to fix the drop target issue. I do have a crack in the plastic under the orb. I figure putting a protector on that now will help it not break off, but was also wondering where to find a replacement piece.
Sorry if this 1st post is awkward...

Hello...

Depending on what model Guardians you have, I suggest you go to the Stern Pinball website and hit up the Guardians product page and download the respective manuals for your model. This will give you all the resources to all aspects of the machine. Setup and maintenance, parts references, diagnostics, etc..

If you want to dive deeper into the machine, download the SPIKE-System manual from the Stern website. Lot's of information for updating game code and troubleshooting. It's an all around good read and ties together with the game manual.

As for finding replacement parts, check out Marco, Planetary, Pinball Life, plenty of others. This image is from page 8 of the Pro Edition Manual. Explains the maintenance regiment perfectly.

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#7714 2 days ago

Lots of youtube videos on maintenance and cleaning.

#7715 2 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

I can seem to win with this pin Started to play a few games tonight and noticed that the drop target was suddenly going up/down like crazy after dropping it then hitting the target behind it. Discovered that the rubber ring solution I had installed actually broke - luckily I ordered a few extra and just replaced it. My guess is the notch I cut in the ring was a bit too deep and it ended up failing..
Sooo now hitting groots mouth it isn't opening. The light in front of it flashes but it doesn't drop. At one point it dropped partially but was still above the playfield where only a lucky shot would bounce into it. Mouth closed fine at the end of the game. The switch test in the menu for the groot mouth definitely doesn't work. Any ideas what to look for??

How old is the game and how many plays? It sounds like your groot mouth motor is failing, they tend to do that. I bought a used game with 2k plays and had to replace the motor immediately. If the light is flashing then your opto is working to identify when a ball hits the mouth, it's not a switch issue. New motors can be purchased on Pinball Life, recommend getting the fully wired one that's a little more expensive but worth it unless you're good at soldering.

#7716 2 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

My Guardians pro is here! I’ve got two issues I see so far:
* Orb drop target issue. Ball stuck behind it and even on a ball search it’s not able to lower the target. I am doing the single drop target test and + - on that test and the target lowered one time to release the ball but every test not the target doesn’t drop. Is this a loose wire, what should I look for? I can’t remove the stuck ball so assume it will stay in there when I lift the playfield…
* need to do some more leveling right to left seems like ball coming down right orbit is hitting the top of the slingshot and that should be put on right flipper. I’ll try leveling before looking at Mylar or bending the metal as suggested in a few recent posts.
Groot multiball seemed to work. I believe the magnet fired when the balls were released. Can’t check the orb drop target to magnet hand off till it get the drop target working
Anything else I should be looking for? Very greatful it shipped here safely and can’t wait to play more!
[quoted image]

GET A SHOOTER LANE PROTECTOR!!! My new GotG shooter lane chipped bad, and dented within 150 plays from NIB..I ended up getting a pindefender protector to throw on top of that. And/or TURN DOWN THE BALL EJECT COIL to minimum!

#7717 2 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

I can seem to win with this pin Started to play a few games tonight and noticed that the drop target was suddenly going up/down like crazy after dropping it then hitting the target behind it. Discovered that the rubber ring solution I had installed actually broke - luckily I ordered a few extra and just replaced it. My guess is the notch I cut in the ring was a bit too deep and it ended up failing..
Sooo now hitting groots mouth it isn't opening. The light in front of it flashes but it doesn't drop. At one point it dropped partially but was still above the playfield where only a lucky shot would bounce into it. Mouth closed fine at the end of the game. The switch test in the menu for the groot mouth definitely doesn't work. Any ideas what to look for??

There is a motor test in the diagnostics-game specific menu. You can disable the physical lock in the menu (adjustments-feature adjustment #5) as well while you are waiting on parts if it is a bad motor. Of course check connections before you start buying parts.

#7718 2 days ago

Drained out one shot from Save Xandar. You rat bastard...

#7719 2 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Drained out one shot from Save Xandar. You rat bastard...

Damn. I feel for you man. Sorry for your loss.

#7720 2 days ago
Quoted from king_pin:

Damn. I feel for you man. Sorry for your loss.

#7721 2 days ago

Stern was very quick to respond to my service request - I placed it after my initial post here and they got back to me first thing this morning.

Opto test in front of his mouth is fine - its the motor. The game specific test for Groot's mouth seemed to work a couple times but after continued testing it began to slow down, fall short of completely opening and then just died all together. I just retested it after a few hours and its totally toast - doesn't move. I'm going to assume Stern is sending me a new motor but we will see. Not sure how easy it is to install?

I read in this thread a recommended setting for the ball trough eject power to reduce the impact - anyone have that handy?

#7722 2 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

I read in this thread a recommended setting for the ball trough eject power to reduce the impact - anyone have that handy?

Click menu button twice / Adjustments / GOTG / Feature Adjustment #58 - 200 is default, 176 is lowest setting.

#7723 2 days ago
Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

Stern was very quick to respond to my service request - I placed it after my initial post here and they got back to me first thing this morning.
Opto test in front of his mouth is fine - its the motor. The game specific test for Groot's mouth seemed to work a couple times but after continued testing it began to slow down, fall short of completely opening and then just died all together. I just retested it after a few hours and its totally toast - doesn't move. I'm going to assume Stern is sending me a new motor but we will see. Not sure how easy it is to install?
I read in this thread a recommended setting for the ball trough eject power to reduce the impact - anyone have that handy?

At least you can disable Groot’s mouth and keep playing while waiting on parts. I played a game on location where the switch for the starlord VUK was broken. The game was completely unplayable.

#7724 1 day ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

At least you can disable Groot’s mouth and keep playing while waiting on parts. I played a game on location where the switch for the starlord VUK was broken. The game was completely unplayable.

same with the deadpool scoop.........fortunately now operators get that alert through IC for these games and it does help get them back up and running sooner!

#7725 1 day ago

Hello friends, I received my guardians last week. Today I realized that several flash lights are not working, apparently it is from some node board. My question is if it could be that the cause is the aver installed the cleland code or the fault has nothing to do with that... regards

#7726 1 day ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

Hello friends, I received my guardians last week. Today I realized that several flash lights are not working, apparently it is from some node board. My question is if it could be that the cause is the aver installed the cleland code or the fault has nothing to do with that... regards

Which lights are not working? All of them connected to a specific node board? Do you get any boot node board failure messages when you power the game up? If you get a normal boot, then there is likely a common wiring issue from the node board to the section of lights. Also, the Cleland code won't affect the game unless an original CLELAND gamecode was flashed into a newer machine. Are your node boards GREEN (older) or BLUE (newer)?

#7727 1 day ago

an original cleland code on a newer machine? I do not understand that.

#7728 1 day ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

an original cleland code on a newer machine? I do not understand that.

Basically if you loaded a code version with node board firmware that is older than what was on there already it creates a problem. You can’t roll back firmware versions without possibly bricking aka breaking the firmware on the node board causing them not to work.

#7729 23 hours ago

Cleland and Applesauce are working on 1.11 now. I flashed back to 1.09 on an October 2022 machine and then back to 1.11 with no issues but I would just wait if you can. That's right no node board is safe from me. Older code is capable of breaking them but I have no proof to back up a claim I am posting on the internet. Shocking I know.

#7730 22 hours ago
Quoted from Elephanthead:

Cleland and Applesauce are working on 1.11 now. I flashed back to 1.09 on an October 2022 machine and then back to 1.11 with no issues but I would just wait if you can. That's right no node board is safe from me. Older code is capable of breaking them but I have no proof to back up a claim I am posting on the internet. Shocking I know.

Part of this issue is dependent on when your node boards were manufactured. There are some hardware revisions that are not compatible with older firmware.

#7731 20 hours ago

green nodes. I will receive a replacement node board tomorrow. If I have understood what I have read correctly... being a machine of the latest production, it is not advisable to install a previous cleland code, I will have to wait for clelan code version 11, right? I use a translator and I don't understand the explanation very well.

#7732 20 hours ago

I reinstalled the sd card that came with the machine with the last code produced, still having the same error, the majority of the flash lights do not work.

#7733 19 hours ago
IMG_20230126_170521 (resized).jpg
#7734 17 hours ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Part of this issue is dependent on when your node boards were manufactured. There are some hardware revisions that are not compatible with older firmware.

So if you have an older machine and have to replace a node board do you have to update to the latest code? I'm about to replace Node board 11 after it died in my 2018 build and am running 1.09 Cleland Code. Will/should I have to update?

#7735 17 hours ago
Quoted from Knackers:

So if you have an older machine and have to replace a node board do you have to update to the latest code? I'm about to replace Node board 11 after it died in my 2018 build and am running 1.09 Cleland Code. Will/should I have to update?

1.09 Cleland still works on the new games. I’m currently using it on a fall 2022 build.

#7736 17 hours ago

So why do I have this problem on the node board? I don't dare to run the cleland code again when I put the new node board...

#7737 17 hours ago
Quoted from TheShaft:

1.09 Cleland still works on the new games. I’m currently using it on a fall 2022 build.

Thanks.

#7738 16 hours ago

I really want to try the Applesauce code and Cleland for the 1.11 when it comes out. New owner of a Sept 2022 production running stock code.

#7739 16 hours ago

cleland's code is great....but it has left me afraid of damaging another node board...

#7740 15 hours ago

Did you try booting it up with the coin door closed?

#7741 14 hours ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

an original cleland code on a newer machine? I do not understand that.

There's a post with a warning about it in the topic index for this thread. It's due to the new node boards being somehow different. You can't load code prior to the version the new run shipped with.

#7742 13 hours ago
Quoted from mcvetyty:

¿Intentaste encenderlo con la puerta de monedas cerrada?

No....

#7743 13 hours ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Hay una publicación con una advertencia al respecto en el índice de temas de este hilo. Se debe a que los nuevos tableros de nodos son de alguna manera diferentes. No puede cargar código anterior a la versión con la que se envió la nueva ejecución.

Mine has the old green plates, it shouldn't be a problem, right?

#7744 13 hours ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

Mine has the old green plates, it shouldn't be a problem, right?

I don't know if it's the boards themselves or the firmware they come loaded with now. I'm assuming it's the firmware because Stern's service bulletin says the green and blue boards are interchangeable.

#7745 8 hours ago

Very much looking forward to this. As a new owner the default music/voice mix makes no sense.

#7746 8 hours ago

Well, pretty certain that's your issue then.. Give it a try..

#7747 5 hours ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

[quoted image]

If you have GREEN node boards, then its possible that your patching cable is at fault (the one that runs from the cpu board to the first node board). Green boards should be fine with ANY version of gamecode. One other thing to look at: There is a slight chance that the terminator plug that is installed on the node board under the playfield near the left flipper assembly may also be missing or at fault.

#7748 3 hours ago

what is the terminator plug near the left wing?

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