Figured I would post a video on Youtube of it working and another of it not working so you all can see what I'm explaining. It happens during gameplay but the videos below show the issue at the end credits. During gameplay the issue stays like that for several seconds and ruins the gameplay as I can't see the entire half of the back playfield.

Video of it working -

Video of it NOT working -

Let me know what you all think.

Is the topper for this game still available somewhere? Also, does the topper come with a mode of some kind like Avengers and Mando topper?

No and no

I wish and I wish! I have asked Stern many times on their FB page to make more toppers for GOTG.

Sounds like your node board is resetting.

a few things to test.
First, have you flashed the card as suggested earlier?
I believe that every time you change cards, your node boards might also try to update themselves (not sure as I have not payed attention to this part of the process lately).

Check the manual and see where the flashers are connecting to. It is late here and I came in here to ask something else, lol...
what flipper strength are you guys using because holly cow I feel like something is gonna break soon?
Game is fast

Anyway, back to your issue.
Disconnect the flashers once you identify where they connect in the node board. Another easy option is disconnecting at the plug right before the cable goes up onto the pf (it is done this way to easily remove the ramp). Once you disconnect the flasher see if the problem persists.
The flashers have polarity, I am not sure if this will cause the issue you are having BUT maybe the ramp flahshers are not connected correctly. Take a photo of what the plugs look like and show us, but an easy way to tell that they are connected right, is that the tabs on the molex are opposite to the other molex you are connecting to.

It almost looks like something is shorting as the flashers go off, so maybe somebody connected the ramps wrong. Or not. but since this is so weird, gotta check on the basics firsts.

Last, The monk might be onto something and maybe the node boards are resetting, no doubt the power is shutting off. I am not sure the node boards are capable of resetting so fast, so to me this looks like a quick short and the node board might be shutting power temporarily, maybe, this is some sort of safety?

I would check the plugs to the ramps to make sure they are correctly connected. The flasher PCB will have the polarity printed on it, but like I said earlier, check the plug, tabs opposite of each other and that should match up (all my connectors are like that in my ramps). I know this because I took all my ramps off today to install all the things, mylar outlines, etc etc etc.

Keep us posted, we will figure it out!

Are you back running on stock code? If not, I would definitely restore all the code to stock to eliminate customizations as the issue.

What mods to you have installed (if any)? Flipper lights? Anything? If you have some, where are they tapping power?

I ask stern all the time to make more, message them. let them see the demand! alot of us would like the chance!!

Unboxed a new one just last week and the infamous drop target issue has clearly not been resolved in the new builds. I’m going to attempt the fix tomorrow. I’m expecting another one soon so let’s see if it’s just a fluke…

Mine works just fine. What is the issue?
Is the target too slow to catch the ball?

We all need to message stern on Facebook to keep asking for the topper! Let’s unify our message and keep pressing them to make more, just sent them another message

Just opened one last week and had to do the same...works great, but they should have corrected this known flaw

Target doesn't release the ball.

More mods on my new Guardians…

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Please do me a favor. Please remove those “leg protectors” they will ruin your decals. Unnecessary as Stern already installed leg spacers.

I’ve heard people say that before. Hasn’t happened in n any of my machines that I’ve used these on. But, I had a machine (different manufacturer) where the legs were not made properly and they were digging into the cabinet actually cutting into the wood right through the decals. That’s not cool. Plastic protectors would not allow this to happen.

If my decals get wrinkled that’s no big deal as you can just heat the decal up and reapply it, if that does even happen. I did have that happen on a Transformers I bought (they came that way) and I was able to repair that easily.

Thanks. I do appreciate the advice either way.

Unnecessary on newer Sterns but if it makes you happy…

I just started to look at this again, life got in the way today, kids, errands, etc .

Ok so I flipped the playfield and tried tracing the flasher lights but they appear to be going into the connectors where I have placed red arrows in the pics below. I don't see them going into node board 9, I'm assuming that is the board next to Groot? Maybe I traced them wrong? I didn't want to start undoing all the zip ties and pulling on things. I'm a green horn, keep that in mind lol.

Last night while troubleshooting I re-flashed SD card, swapped them, tried different codes, different receptacles, with a surge strip, without a surge strip, etc. I also had a Reolink house cam sharing the same receptacle as the pinball machine so I unplugged the camera just in case that was somehow interfering with it being plugged in the same receptacle?

During my testing I did notice a voltage error on the screen when I turned it on after removing from surge strip, camera, and plugging straight into the wall outlet receptacle. I don't remember what it said exactly because it flashed off the screen before I could take a pic but then 2 more errors followed and I took pics of those 2, screenshots below.

The problem continues to happen intermittently as I have been playing a few games today. Those errors have not come back up today ironically even though the issue still persists. Sometimes the game will work flawless and then other times it will go back to the back red flashers blinking quickly and dimming the other backside lights making it impossible to see anything back there. I do notice when the music is not playing I can actually here a noise when the flashing is occurring coming from under the playfield in that back area near Groot.

Everything else looks secure. I took a flashlight and checked all connectors, ramps, etc. Everything looks nice and tidy.

I think you and Monk are correct about the node board resetting now that I actually have an error to go off of.

As far as mods are concerned the only thing I have done is replaced the factor speakers. I just cut the speaker wire from factory speakers, spliced into them and connected some Kicker 4' speakers. I also connected the pinball life sub to replace the factor sub.

I also installed the scoop protector but I re-checked all the wires in that general area and nothing has been disturbed and everything looks good. When I installed the scoop protector I made sure not to disturb anything and just left the ramp connected (removed 4 ramp screws to just lift it slightly out of my way)

All those mods I did day 1. The machine ran great on day 1. I didn't have any issues other than the orb drop target got stuck a few times, but that was about it.

2 more issues have surfaced now that I have had more time with the machine the last few days. The orb drop target is much worse today and gets stuck pretty much every time. The machine eventually looks for the ball and when it does the orb will finally release. I see people have had success bending but I didn't really understand the instructions (bending the bracket up with palm of hand or bending bracket toward playfield with palm of hand?). I really don't see how that bracket can be bent to the playfield it seems pretty solid and not much give at all even with applying some pressure to it. Maybe I just didn't understand what people were talking about with the whole bending thing?

I am also having the issue with the ball getting stuck in the little groove area where Groots jaw meets the playfield.

I can live with these last 2 issues and maybe I'll try the rubber washer fix if anyone has a picture of what it should look like with the washer installed to help with the orb drop.

The node board light issue though I think is going to be a problem. Not sure if maybe its the actual node board itself? Perhaps I should call Stern in the morning.

Sorry for the long list of issues, appreciate everyones feedback!

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That overcurrent error message should have another screen (maybe you need to press select?) with some numbers on it to tell you where to look. Can you post that?

Also, I don't remember, is this a new build or a vintage GotG machine from an earlier run?

I tried hitting select last night when the error was up on the screen but I might have pressed menu by accident and the screen went away.

It has not returned since so I haven’t had the opportunity to hit select, but I will when it pops back up or if it does, weird I haven’t seen it since.

This is a NIB from September 2022 run. My game build date says September 21st 2022.

This is my 3rd day of ownership, day 1 was Friday the 21st and ironically that is the only day it worked pretty much flawless lol. (I’m getting really annoyed by the stuck orb drop target, totally ruins flow of game)

Also someone else asked what mods and I forgot to mention I did install a shaker motor. I don’t consider that a mod and didn’t mention it in that previous post.

If it's a new build, it's most likely a small piece of metal crap in one of the light sockets or a pinched wire. That diagnostic number will tell you where to look.

Another thought I had is you might be able to see if it's the flashers at all by going into lamp test->flashers in diagnostics (with the coin door bypass post (the white thing on the inside left) pulled out so the PF has power with the coin door open). Cycle through each flasher and let it set on each one for 10 seconds or so and see if one of them makes it short out or act weird.

Ok back left and right red flasher is causing the problem looks like. I just did as you said and was able to duplicate the problem with both of those flasher lights. I will get on the computer and upload to YouTube and then post links.

What’s funny is when I ran the tests again a second time now they are working. Makes sense because I’ll notice this during gameplay. One minute they are working and then the next they start flickering again and dim entire back half of playfield.

Take the bulb out of the socket and take a HIGH RES picture of the inside of the socket. Look for metal debris shorting the socket.

Then do the same thing for the UNDERSIDE of the two flasher sockets so the wiring is visible.

Post the pics, but select "full res" from the dropdown menu before loading the pictures onto pinside "add images" so it doesn't resize them.

added some flexible vine around the ramps. I think it looks pretty good…might have to order more.

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Are the flashers here bulbs or small pcbs?
I believe they are pcbs but can be wrong, sorry did not care to look closely yet.
I will take a look myself

If it is shorting at the flashers and it is a pcb, Have you check the polarity as I mentioned earlier? The flasher connects to a plug - it could have been reversed there.

To find the connection of something to the node board, always refer to the manual.
You can sometimes disconnect something there to trouble shoot.

Ah, right, probably a PCB. If it is, I'd also unscrew it from the mount and look for extra solder or gunk that could cause a short on the PCB. Also make sure that the mounting screw isn't shorting out on something like the wire or a trace.

How do you get Cherry Bomb multiball? I got it yesterday and it was fun and all but I didn’t know how I did it

Finish 4 modes and hit the scoop on the right.

Yes it is a PCB board, I just got done dissembling the back left side. I checked the front red flasher for reference since that one and the right front have both worked 100%. After examining the back flasher it looks identical to the ones that are working.

Here is a pic of the PCB board and soldering below. I also attached pics where it goes underneath the playfield and then connects to the Molex connector. From the Molex connector I traced the 2 yellow wires and brown/green wire to the node board, circled in the pic below.

After tracing and examining the cable run I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

I have not done a polarity test, I don't have a multimeter. Is there any suggestions for one to get?

PCB Board 01.jpg

PCB Board 02.jpg

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Wiring 01.jpg

Wiring 02.jpg

Wiring 03.jpg

On the last picture, the two yellow ones are your voltage leads. the other wires on that connector in the last picture are returns. The colors line up with the manual, so at least the connector is wired right. That connector in the last picture is CN14. If you take that connector off, you'll lose those lights, but see if you can play without the other lights run by that node board resetting when that's unplugged. If you can, then the problem is confined to what's on that connector only.

If it does work well after this.
You can isolate the pcb by disconnecting at the plugs (2pin) you posted earlier.

In a nutshell, once uou isolate the general area, you have to find where the short is by isolating.

Ok the plot thickens, this issue is getting worse.

Just lost power to the entire upper playfield during a game. Pop bumpers, rocket, ramps, etc became unresponsive and just shut off.

At this point I’m going to go lick my wounds and go to bed.

You can also do the shotgun method to make sure it's not the node board itself that's bad by swapping Node 8 and Node 9 and seeing if the problem moves. The nodes are the same, you just have to change the dip switches on each one to be the other so the machine knows they're now the opposite numbers and then move them. If the problem moves to somewhere else, then you have a bad node board and can contact Stern for a warranty replacement. If it DOESN'T move, then you have a wiring problem for sure and just need to hunker down and trace.

As far as multimeters go, I'm partial to FLUKE. They're more expensive, but they last FOREVER and give very reliable readings. FLUKE Direct has the 117 for about $240.

https://www.fluke-direct.com/product/fluke-117-digital-multimeter-with-non-contact-voltage

Aside from that, you can probably get a Chinese no-name one at Amazon that will work ok for continuity tests and simple jobs for $50.

Just have to ask… is it possible you had tried to flash a version of the Cleland gamecode earlier than 1.08 and then run it in the machine? Newer builds of the hardware can be affected permanently if you accidentally try to run older code.

is it possible to disable the dialogue-monologue during the modes. I find these audio clips cringe worthy, Drax, Yundu voices are really really bad, not to mention the whistling sound is nowhere close the original. Such a missed opportunity to integrate that sound with the game.

I hope these can be disabled. Can they? Just have the music playing and the scoring sounds but no voices.

Definitely not the issue, I actually wish it were that simple honestly though.

I downloaded cleland 1.09 and Applejuice 1.09. Factory code came with 1.11. I can freely go between all 3 cards and upon boot it does show the proper version so that is not the issue with it being earlier than 1.09.

I also unplugged CN14 from the node board, but the problem still persists so that also is not the issue.

PinMonk suggested swapping nodes 8 and 9 but I'm not sure what that means or how to do it. Sorry guys this is my first pinball machine and looking inside the thing is like looking under the hood of a car and not being an auto mechanic.

I'm in IT for a living so I understand computers, I can splice speaker wires, no issues unplugging the connectors, etc., but all the pinball lingo, mechanical switches, lights, etc., you'll just have to bear with me

I left a VM for Stern pinball support as well this morning. Not sure how long it takes them to return calls.

Also thought about checking with dealers around in my area and maybe try and pay someone more knowledgeable to come look at it.

You will never hear back from Stern over a VM, contact them at the email address instead.
The have started a new ticketing system as of recently. Response time is often times 24-72 hours.

So, I was on the phone with Stern for over an hour troubleshooting. We unplugged node board 15, same issue. Unplugged each red flasher same issue. We were about to test the flasher between pop bumpers and as I was lifting the playfield in service position it completely fell inside the cabinet.

Honestly all I've done is troubleshooted this thing for the last 3 days and really not sure how I could have allowed it to fall, when I have literally lifted this thing 100 times by now.

I don't recall pulling it over the hump and it falling. I was just trying to lift straight up in service position and as I started to lift the back completely fell through.

I started disconnecting wires in effort to pull it completely out of the cab from the front since I can't lift from the back as the metal sliders are in the way. There is a single grey cord still connected somewhere that goes underneath and to the front but I'm unable to locate it so technically I can't pull it out the front because it's still connected.

I've tried reaching a local dealer in the area and left a VM. At this point I think I just need some help. I feel I'm now making it worse as no telling what damage I have caused with it falling into the cabinet .

With these Mickey Mouse plastic pegs and no rails, it just makes it way worse. Nothing to grab onto.

You might want to try posting your location and see if a friendly local pinsider is willing to stop by to assist you for some beers.

I'm in Franklin, Tennessee. It's a suburb just south of Nashville.

I got a stay tuned message about inquiry to the gotg topper on facebook messanger. Please if anyone is interested in a topper and has facebook now would be the time to message them so they see the demand

Has not happened to me yet but I am sorry just happened to you.
I am glad you were able to get ahold of someone at Stern. Phone troubleshooting, must be new!
Hope things turn out for the better soon, hang in there.

Sorry about not explaining more. Node 8 is the rectangular board by the flippers underneath. Node 9 is past the halfway point down the playfield underneath. Both are thin rectangular boards with a lot of components on them and connectors all the way around them that go to the parts of the machine they control. Both boards are identical, EXCEPT they have a dip switch block that has switches to tell the machine which node number they are. So, you can note the settings right now for node 8's board, and also the dip switch settings on the node 9 board, then take numerous pictures of each so you know how to plug everything back in. Then swap the physical locations of both boards and change the dip switch settings so 9 becomes 8 and 8 becomes 9. Then plug everything back in and test to see if the problem moved.

Saw you had additional problems after this point, but wanted to get this written down for you so you know where to go once you get the other issue resolved.

I appreciate the input. You have been great and everyone else on here. For a while it felt like I might find the issue and after spending time with Stern support this morning it started to feel like this was not going to be an easy fix as they too were stumped, and as I was in the middle of lifting the playfield for the 100th time, WHAM! it slammed down into the backside of the cabinet .

I don't see how it would even be possible to do since that huge lip at the end of each rail. I keep replaying it in my head and don't even remember pulling hard as I knew I was already clear over that initial hump. I went to look back at the camera footage to see what went wrong and that's when I realized the camera was unplugged because it shared the same receptacle as the pin and I had unplugged last night while troubleshooting, DOH!

At this point Stern contacted me back saying they are looking for a technician in my area and will send someone out. Hopefully this process doesn't take long, but at this point its wedged in there so good that I'm afraid if I try messing with it myself, I'll just do more damage than has already been done.

So, I'm going to try not to breathe on it and lock the cats out of that room until Stern sends someone out.

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Yeah, I've done that a time or two, so don't feel too bad. Looks like you maybe you just pulled it slightly too far forward and BAM. Sure wakes you up, eh?

Hopefully Stern finds a local tech that can help you out. Sucks that you're having a rough start with this pin.

reached out to them as well...

Oh, it woke me up alright! Heart skipped a couple beats, and I probably would have hit my head on the ceiling if it weren't from me still holding onto them mickey mouse pegs! I'm going to have the tech that comes out install some proper rails lol!

those pegs are terrible. that was the first thing I installed before I did anything else. It is very awkward to maneuver the PF properly with those pegs.
The install is very easy if you want to approach it yourself.