Can someone show me and tell me how they bent the metal on the orb drop target to get it to start coming back down? It is really starting to get frustrating when that ball gets stuck in there. I looked for a setting to just disabled it but can't find one. I disabled the drop target and it still went up then got stuck.

Wait til you get to Save Xandar.

Congrats keep it up!

Not sure what others think but for my family (we have now owned GOTG since 2017 and its our only forever keeper based on theme and nostalgia for us) once we finally got to Xandar the first time we increased hadron rewards to 5 and it just makes the game a bit more approachable and certainly beatable even for more casual players and my kids. Never looked back and still isn't old!

Awesome deal - been there once also and it is EXHILARTING!!

Just swapped out my Pro orb for the hooked on pinball one. Snapped some side by side pictures to show the differences.

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I have a late run pro with Cleland and some upgrades for sale if anyone is looking for one...

Machine - For Sale

Guardians of the Galaxy (Pro) with Cleland installed Archived

As new - New out of box (first owner) - “GOTG pro from the March 2021 run -1.06 code with Cleland installed -Stern art blades -5.25" LE speaker upgrade -Deluxe speaker light kit -Fluorescent plastic protectors and pop bu...”

2021-11-06

Evansville, IN

Purdue

6,200

Archived after: 16 days

Viewed: 599 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Hey guys I used to have a GOTG LE and just recently obtained a premium. When the shaker goes off it really shakes Groots right arm a lot, is that normal?
Thanks

Hi! May not be the correct thread but I couldn't find too much else by searching... I'm having an issue on my GOTG pro where I'll get either 0 balls or 2 balls in the shooter lane. For the most part, the game knows and corrects but in some situations it won't (MBs, for example). Anyone else experienced this, or can point me in the right direction? Thanks.

If memory server me. Only two screws holds arms in place. Sound like right arm screws are
Loose.

Before you go too crazy testing, make sure your balls aren't magnetized. And the owners thread is a great place to post tech questions. Welcome to pinside!!

Wire ramps received today and installed.

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Interesting idea. Have only had mine a little over a month and probably a hundred plays. As much as I love the look, overall flow and play, and of course music, voices, and sounds - playing can be very frustrating. Very much a middle of the road player on a good day. High score is 1.4 billion, but only on one extremely lucky game with a 746 mil cherry bomb mb. the only Cherry mb I have had. And interestingly before I even knew the rule set well enough not to just keep shooting for Groot and Orb multi balls. Otherwise I struggle to break 100mil, and that is not very common.

Does this change really improve your enjoyment of the game? Do you feel like it diminishes your higher scores? (realizing if I did something like this, would not compare my playing or scores with anyone who has a game set to "normal"). Interested in other players thoughts.

Experimenting with a 4 color led mod that lights the scoop depending on the billboard led. Unfortunately, the stock billboard colors (yellow,.orange) are very dim, so I had to pick different ones. I haven't settled on a final color arrangement, but I am really digging the effect.

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Very creative. The idea is to 'match' the billboard color inside the scoop?

That was the original idea, but it didn't work very well (see above). So I pivoted,.and now am trying to figure out alternative colors that are bright enough.

Blue, red, green, purple and the brightest I have found. The comet rgb color changer is a pretty cool effect too.

I've got to get back to my scoop too. I moved lights to backboard, but still find myself looking a scoop to verify what's lit. Sorry for the S@#& picture.

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Maybe just find 4 discrete 3mm LEDs to match the billboard colors, even if a couple of the color LEDs on the factory billboard are a bit washed out. In fact that gives me an idea to replace the factory billboard LEDs with richer LEDs on my own machine. Then I could match the scoop ones using the same parts more easily!

Red, Yellow, Green, Blue tend to be the easiest parts to get with strong color saturation.

Cool idea. What is the plan for when you have multiple different LEDs lit (e.g. extra ball, mystery, and mode select lit)?

Yellow LEDs were way too dim for my liking. I am using the comet pcb LEDs because the form factor is great for this mod.

It's four separate LEDs, so when multiple are lit, they blend into each other. The purples/reds/blues mesh well with the colors of the pf.

So far I'm thinking red = EB, blue = mystery, green = mode select, and purple = upgrade?

I don't really want to switch led types at this point if it can be avoided. I have the 3d printed model dialed in, and it installs with a single screw (one that's already installed under the pf). Sorry to other members, if I'm cluttering this thread, I'll punt it over to a separate mod thread.

Thank you! It does not appear magnetization is the issue (did not know that was a thing, ha). Anyone have a link to info/guides on the mech that loads balls into the shooter lane? Assuming it's the same on most modern Sterns?

To those interested in following my scoop-billboard lighting mod, checkout my thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gotg-multi-lit-scoop-4-individually-controlled-colors

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First time owner of NIB machine from March 2021 build. Groot mechanism is dead. Mouth is closed and will not open.

Have been in contact with Stern Customer Service but they have not been helpful. They sent a claim to the Service Department. I have not heard anything since then. There is no phone support.

Any advice is appreciated.

Let your distributor know as well. Sometimes thy can help move things along.

If you havnt already, lift the playfield and visually inspect anything mechanical and/or electrical related to groots jaw. I'm not suggesting you start ripping things apart. Just look for obvious problems like wires unplugged, bolts missing, etc. Is there any foam in place from shipping? Etc... Sometimes it's an easy fix.

Did you just unbox it, or has it been working and stopped after some number of plays? Does the Groot motor try to move and fail or move at all? Is the "Disable Groot Motor" option in the service menu set to No? I think your distributor should help you resolve this but I hope you are able to get it sorted out soon!

Mine was getting stuck on the lifting mechanism. I could hear the motor going but it would have a lot of trouble moving it. If you can hear the motor but the mouth is not moving then I'd recommend cleaning the two metal poles that the jaw rides on. Once cleaned I lubricated mine with white lithium grease and never had a problem again. There was no lubrication from the factory.

Every time I smack the ORB drop-target, I have the image in my mind of the top target half snapping off and flying around the playfield. It hasn't happened yet, but it just feels like that will be a 'thing'. Is it just me, or does that target really snap off after a thousand hits?

Thanks. I will contact them.

The machine was fine out of the box. Mechanism worked well for a couple of months. Then the mouth started to continue to move up and down once a few additional times after shooting a ball in the mouth. Now is closed and will not open. I will contact the distributor. Thanks.

Thank you. I will check that. I do hear the motor when I try the diagnostic.

I wouldn't worry about it. My GOTG Pro on location has well over 10,000 plays and the drop target hasn't snapped off yet. OTOH, three t-nuts under the playfield have snapped off at the neck, so that may be in your future.

Just got a NIB about a month ago. What routine maintenance do you guys do? The recommended stuff in the manual seems excessive for a family machine vs the wear and tear in a commercial setting.

There is a piece of mylar running up the path to Groot on my game, about 1-1/2" x 8". It this factory mylar? It is kind of beat up and I would like to replace it, but am worried about lifting the clear coat from the insets. Does anyone have any experience in doing this on the Stern clear coated playfields?

It's totally your call but maybe you are overthinking it? Just have fun!

Probably true overthinking. Sucks being a type A personality sometimes. LOL

Now after fixing a couple issues, shelf for Orb drop target, and bottom pop bumper compression spring, been practicing and playing it a lot. Just had a good game. About 10 minutes, had 103 million on first ball and ended at 232 million at end of game. Am wanting to get the art blades soon, and still have to fix Groot’s mouth (I believe the power/control board for it, but no one has stock and Stern says delays in manufacturing more due to component shortages).

Tim
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Any advice for making that super tight rocket shot any easier? Ill hit it by mistake but rarely on purpose….

I just purchased fluorescent plastic protectors from ULEK for my LE. I'm having issues with mounting the Rocket protector as the raccoon is in the way, has anyone here removed Rocket and can you share how this is done?

Pro or premium?

I don't remember exactly how I got mine in, but I did not have to remove Rocket on my premium to do it. It was tricky to maneuver to say the least.

LE but that is the same as premium in this case.

Hope you get a response. haha I suck at that shot also. And the scoop shot which is way to important in this game. When my family plays a lot of times we will get into a place where we cant hit that and are just shooting the ball around the playfield not scoring points. My only complaint on this machine. Other than that its great!

When the family plays make sure you have the game set to select / start a mode at ball launch, that is factory default and makes the game more approchable as that scoop can be rather tough.

Ah, Ill check that out. I was messing around in the menus when it got to my house and probably changed that setting. Thanks for the heads up!

Looking at replacing the lower pop bumper leaf switch at some point (mine missing the nub on the one leaf, was able to get it working bending leaf closer for now at least, but can see this becoming a problem again). Anyone know if it really makes a difference if I order a left mount bracket one or right mount? Seems I could potentially take the nuts off and flip bracket around if needed anyways?

https://pinballmedics.ca/product/pop-bumper-bracket-leaf-switch-assembly-a-12030-3/ (listed as left mounted)

https://pinballmedics.ca/product/pop-bumper-bracket-leaf-switch-assembly-b-12030-2/ (listed as right mounted)

Tim

That is the only difference. Save 5 minutes and order the one that has the bracket assembled correctly if you can. (but if you have to swap the bracket, it's pretty easy, just make sure you tighten the screws pretty solid if you have to swap the bracket.)

Thanks! I'll have to look at the bottom bumper again to get a sense of how it is orientated, to try to order one with correct left/right to save a bit of work.

Tim