Is the diagram you see the 4 reel reset switches that need to be closed to advance the player unit. put a jumper around them and see if that fixes the issue. if so figure out which of the 4 is not closed... (move the jumper down the chain)

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Check your schematic and find the horizontally-oriented circuit that leads to the 1000-pt relay (likely the L relay?). It should include a normally open (NO) switch on the 100-pt relay (M relay?), along with a NO switch labelled 9th-position, 2nd hundreds. There may be another switch in the circuit that would need to be checked.

Then, if the 1000-pt relay is indeed pulling in when the 2nd-player hundreds reel advances from 9 to 0, there will be another NO switch on the thousand-point relay that needs to conduct to fire the "add 2nd thousands unit" solenoid (circuit found lower down on the schematic).

Keep in mind that the bane of EM troubleshooting is the switch that "appears" to be clean and closed, but still does not conduct electricity. I've run into that situation many times. Some folks use alligator clips and jumper wires to short circuit each switch to make sure that isn't happening.

I recently had a Doodle Bug that was doing the same exact thing. Take a file and file the contacts on the hundreds 9th position blade switch until they are shiny. For me it wasn't a matter of improper switch gaps or adjustments, it was simply not making a electrical connection because of old dirt / gunk on the switch contacts.

Can you paste in a snippet of a photo of the schematic for that circuit?

The wie colors designated on the schematic will help you isolate which switch(es) you need to address.

Hi Runbikeskilee
here it is. Greetings Rolf

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Ok, I'm not sure exactly where Gottlieb positioned the switches on a 1975 machine production, but the 9th position switch for the 2nd-player hundreds reel will have a green & white wire going to one of the switch-blade tab ends. Hopefully, you can still make out the wire colors.

From the schematic, your machine also has another NO switch in series with the 9th position switch, on the add 2nd hundreds unit. That switch will also have a green & white wire to one of the switch-blade tabs. I don't own a 1975 multiplayer to reference, but that switch just might be in tandem with the EOS switch. Below is a photo from a 1973 multiplayer score reel. It is the switch to the right that is open until the plunger pulls in all the way.

Need to check both those switches (that is the 9th position 2nd hundreds switch and also the on add 2nd hundreds switch) to see if they are conducting. Also inspect the tab ends to make sure a wire has not come loose.

Lee
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if its driven by a 150 ohm resistor you just need 44 lamp versus a 47

Are you saying that the rollover lamp present in the game was burned out?

Maybe I'm not thinking clearly this morning (more coffee needed ), but I can't see how a 757 lamp is going to work properly in that circuit

The selection of the 85 ohm resistor was intended to act as a voltage divider and result in approximately 5.6-5.8V across a #44 lamp. Over time, many people replaced #44 lamps with #47 lamps. Due to a higher (real portion of the) impedance in a #47 lamp, the voltage across that #47 would then be closer to 8V. As Ken implied, that is why the lamp appeared to burn brightly and fail faster (25% over spec voltage).

You could try and use a multi-meter to measure the resistance of the "85 ohm" resistor and verify it is close to spec, but a #44 bulb should work just fine.

A little more:

Many of these EM games were designed at a time when nominal line voltage was considered to be 110-115V AC. I've measured the line voltage in my rec room wall sockets at slightly over 120V and the voltage out of the "24V" standard transformer tap at closer to 26V.

If I amend my voltage divider calculations accordingly, that places 6.1V across a #44 lamp and 8.6V across a #47 lamp.
8.6 V is surely enough to shorten the lamp life substantially.

Even more: I finally looked up the specs on a #757 lamp. It is rated for 0.08A at 28V AC. That should result in reistive component of impedance of 350 ohms.

Assuming 26V out of the transformer along with that 85 ohm resistor, that voltage divider circuit results in about 21V across the #757. Going to be dim, but it should last a looooong time.

I suggest trying the #44 bulb first.

Ok, sounds like the resistor may not be at spec. Could some prior owner have replaced the resistor with a different value, or maybe the resistor is damaged?

I am guessing that other folks who used 757s must have removed the resistor when they swapped in a different lamp.
If so, then the 28V lamp would be running off the 24-26V nominal voltage from the transformer tap, which should work reasonably well.

If you have a multimeter, you could verify the value of the resistor and also check the voltage out of the transformer tap.

Hi Runbikeskilee and goldenboy232
I guess You are talking about this topic - and this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/top-score-star-rollover-special-light-to-bright#post-4980026 ? (actually the whole topic is good). Greetings Rolf

Thanks Rolf. That looks like the one. I had missed that thread a short while ago as I was on travel.

I suspect something is wrong with the "85-ohm" resistor, but it is good that the OP now has the machine working properly for he and his friends to enjoy!