(Topic ID: 167505)

GTB Sure Shot starts a game, then......zilch

By Alan_L

7 years ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Alan_L
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 years ago

Here's the problem: game launches a ball when coin door button is pressed. All GI and feature lights come on, Tilt light goes out and score reels reset to zero. But, nothing else works: no solenoids, switches, bells, score reels. Zilch. Replaced all fuses even though they all tested good, fuse clips tight. All tilts open or closed per schematic.

I'm hoping that this is caused by just one switch somewhere that is out of adjustment, but I can't find where. All coils and switches have the proper voltage. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Alan

#2 7 years ago

Hi Alan, see posts #10 and #11 in this topic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-golden-arrow-now-resets-but-game-does-not-start-2

It's about adjusting the switches on back side of the ball-count unit, that may be what is causing your problem.

- TimMe

#3 7 years ago

Check the ball trough switch. If it doesn't close as the ball runs thru the trough that is exactly what happens on Volley.

#4 7 years ago

Thanks for the replies guys. Unfortunately checking all those switches did not help. They have been cleaned and adjusted, and I also C&Ad the Hold, Tilt and some other related relay. All the switches seemed to be adjusted properly anyway.

The problem does seem to be in the Ball Count Unit but it is mechanical, not electrical. The game advances to ball #1 but not past that. The plunger that goes into the Ball Add coil does not return all the way and prevents the mechanism from advancing the ball count. I have replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned the plunger, did the same on the reset coil. Could the return spring just be worn out?

All suggestions welcomed.

#5 7 years ago

Either that or perhaps something is binding in the mechanism.

#6 7 years ago

The return spring virtually never wears out. The spring tension may not be set correctly, or as D-Gottlieb said, there could be a mechanical problem with the stepper.

Here's how to properly set the return spring tension. First, make sure the stepper is reset and the gear is at the zero position. Then, slightly bend open the loop at the end of the long straight part of the return spring that attaches to the tall stationary metal tab of the baseplate. Slip the loop of the spring out of the tall tab of the baseplate. Allow the spring to unwind. Once the spring is unwound, take the long straight part of the spring and wind it up four times around the gear axle. After the fourth time around, re-attach the spring to the tall tab of the baseplate, and close the loop on the spring to secure the spring to the tab.

- TimMe

#7 7 years ago

To clarify, I'm describing the gear return spring in post #6. When I just read your post again, it occurs to me you were actually asking about the drive-arm return spring. Sorry for any confusion I caused there.

The drive-arm return spring usually doesn't wear out (unless someone has stretched it by hand) so that is probably not the issue. As D-Gottlieb already said, mechanical binding is a much more likely issue. Try putting a little light oil on the gear axle where it meets the bearing on the stepper baseplate, and see if that helps. Also make sure the rivet disc is clean and has a very light film of oil on it.

If the above doesn't help, then it might make sense to check the gear return spring just to confirm it isn't wound too tight.

- TimMe

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Thanks for the replies guys. Unfortunately checking all those switches did not help. They have been cleaned and adjusted, and I also C&Ad the Hold, Tilt and some other related relay. All the switches seemed to be adjusted properly anyway.
The problem does seem to be in the Ball Count Unit but it is mechanical, not electrical. The game advances to ball #1 but not past that. The plunger that goes into the Ball Add coil does not return all the way and prevents the mechanism from advancing the ball count. I have replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned the plunger, did the same on the reset coil. Could the return spring just be worn out?
All suggestions welcomed.

The unit sounds gummed up. disassemble unit and carefully pull wheel shaft out and clean shaft and sleeve with a q-tip dipped in alcohol. put shaft back in. There are shoulder bolts that the lower levers pivot on. before loosening take nut off from backside. clean shoulder bolts with alcohol and q-tip for the hole and surrounding areas. do not oil as it will collect dirt and gum up again. very important before you start take lots of pics of the unit from every angle you can for reference

#9 7 years ago

OK, now that vacation is over, here's the latest.

I have the jones plug set for a 3-ball game. The game ignores that and wants to play five balls. The ball count unit is resetting properly to the zero position and advances to ball 1 when the ball rolls over the right hand ball trough switch. It continues to advance properly from 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and 4 to 5. But sometimes it sticks on ball 5 for a couple of balls before advancing to the 6th position (game over position).

At the 6th position, a match (replay) light comes on but the game over lamp never lights. Good bulb.

The three switches on the back of the ball count unit are set as follows. Zero position: left switch closed, middle and right switches open. 1 through 5 positions: all 3 closed. 6th position: left open, middle and right closed.

The plunger on the advance coil of the ball count unit goes all the way in and out at positions zero through four. At 5th position, the plunger does not retract all the way. When the plunger is pulled manually out of the coil, the stepper advances to 6th position, but the game over lamp still does not light.

Basically my three problems are: no 3-ball game, no game over lamp, and lack of advancement to the 6th position. Frankly, I'd like to try and fix the first two before I have to tear the ball count unit apart and clean it . It does seem like it's gummed up.

Thanks for your help guys.

Alan

#10 7 years ago

it will never work right until it can move freely. the ball in play is controlled by the rivets on unit. the game over relay is tripped by rivets. if it does not advance freely you can not expect those features to work. If the machine has sat for a long time the blades on switchstacks behind unit can get stiff. pull unit out and message the blades gently up to flex them a bit. be careful not to break the plastic piece that rides on cam. then gap all switches to make sure the are still making/breaking correctly. This can take tension off the wheel.

#11 7 years ago

Made some progress.

I noticed that the sleeve on the Ball Add solenoid on the Ball Count unit was very long, 5/16" longer than normal. Replaced it with a shorter metal sleeve and the unit advances better.

The Game Over light did not come on because the bulb was loose in it's socket.

Now the game, set for 3 balls works fine, sometimes. It plays 3 balls and goes to game over about half the time.

But sometimes it plays 4 balls and goes to game over. Other times it plays 5 balls but does not precede to game over. It just sits on "ball in play 5" but with switches and coils off. The three switches on the back of the Ball Count unit appear to be set correctly.

I am so close. Cold there be an issue with one of the under playfield relays?

#12 7 years ago

On third ball look at the rivet on bottom of unit. The outer wheel with the spring lugs should be resting on rivet. Rivet could need cleaned or wheel could need adjusted slightly. That's where I would look first.

#13 7 years ago

Scotch brite cleans rivets well

#14 7 years ago

Have you checked the clock spring for correct number of winds? it may be wound too tight?
also, the clock gear teeth for ware?
it sounds like the ball unit is still mal functioning?
you should be able to manually step it up/down through all positions.
if not, you will not fully recover it.

#15 7 years ago

Thanks for the help guys.

There is no wear on the clock gear teeth. All rivets are shiny.

I watched when the third ball drain, and the Add Ball coil on the ball count unit energized with three short strokes without moving the clock gear, then one full stroke which moved the unit to the five position, shut off the coils and switches, but did not move the unit to the sixth position. But if I just so much as touch the coil plunger it energizes and it jumps right to sixth position.

Why would that coil make three short strokes then one full stroke?

#16 7 years ago

That sounds like a score motor switch, but prob through another switch on another relay.
Does that game have a player unit and a ball count unit?
have they both been serviced?
I am not great with Gottliebs...yet. but would suspect if you follow the line from the ball step up coil back, you will discover the stutter fault.

#17 7 years ago

In 3-ball mode, when the ball drains at the end of ball 3, the ball count unit needs to step 3 times during the score-motor cycle initiated by the ball return ("O") relay. These three steps should move the ball count unit to ball 4, ball 5, and finally to position 6, which is the game-over position.

The way this works is that the double-set of wipers on the ball count unit bridge double sets of rivets at ball count position 3, 4, and 5. The pulses from the score motor that advance the ball count unit to position 6 goes through these sets of rivets. if the wipers bridging these rivets is not making good contact, then you won't get a solid electrical pulse to advance the ball count unit.

There should be a flexible braided jumper wire soldered across the double set of wipers so that they make a good bridging connection (see pic). Sometimes this bridging wire breaks off, and you'll get the problem you describe.

- TimMe

ball-count-jumper (resized).JPGball-count-jumper (resized).JPG

#18 7 years ago

Thanks for the pic, TimMe. The wires on the two wipers connect.

I looked at the two switch stacks on the "O" relay, cleaned them all and tightened two of the switches up.

Then I played 10 games. Games 1, 3, 5 and 9 played 3 balls and went to game over. Fine.

Games 2, 5 and 10 went from ball 3 to ball 5 but all switches and coils died.

Games 6 and 8 went to ball 4 then ball 5 and then ended. Fine for a 5-ball game.

Game 7 went to ball 4 and then ended.

As it is an intermittent issue, my guess is that there is a switch somewhere that looks like it is open but isn't, or vice versa. But I don't want to go adjusting a whole bunch of switches hoping I'll hit the right one, sort of an EM shotgun method. Because that's going to make it worse.

While we're here, my game will only take 9 credits. Will it take more? Also, how do you set this monster for free play?

Alan

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

...
While we're here, my game will only take 9 credits. Will it take more? Also, how do you set this monster for free play?
Alan

http://pinballmd.com/gottlieb-wedgehead-sky-jump-freeplay-credit-unit-hack/

#20 7 years ago

The switches behind the player unit need adjusting. opening a little to soon will give you the dead ball 5

#21 7 years ago

They are easier set buy manually adjusting unit with power off. that switch should open on the last pulse. If wheel has slop in it take that in account when gapping.

#22 7 years ago

Adjusted the left hand switch on the back lf the ball count unit, which is the 6th position switch (I think), and now it is tight at the 5th position. I noticed that at the zero position, the far right switch (blue-white and orange-white or yellow wires) is wide open as it should be along with the middle switch (zero position?). But the right hand switch even when open shows connection on my meter. Is this correct? What is that switch and where does it go? I can't find it on the schematic.

The game is still doing the same thing: on half the games it plays 3 balls and goes to game over. Or it will serve 4 or 5 balls and go to game over or just quit.

#23 7 years ago

By George, I got it!!!

After cleaning and adjusting a million switches over and over, I decided to check something else.

The sort of oval shaped outer disc shown in post #17 has three screws that can be loosened to adjust that disc. I found that the two rivets highlighted at the bottom of that pic were not hitting the contacts squarely. I loosened those screws, adjusted the disc and that did the trick!

Many thanks to all above who helped, I really appreciate it.

The machine will be at the York show.

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