Hi I’ve shifted gears (no pun intended) to Spin Out now that I’ve finished Top Card.

Going through the bottom board and came across this wire with red plastic insulation coming off the 2nd chute relay. I can’t figure out where it would connect.

I should add that the game played fine with it in this condition although I didn’t try using the coin chutes since it was set for free play.

Thoughts?
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Definitely tempted to

Thanks Wayner! I can see that red wire on your W relay — looks like it’s looped back and connected somewhere nearby perhaps. If you can look and tell me where it connects that would be appreciated but I may just leave it since the game is working fine without it and I am guessing it only affects the second coin chute which I really won’t be using with it on free play.

Next up I’ll try to make the ubiquitous wear spot look better. I don’t have clear coating ability /skills but have access to an artist in the family who can help match the color really well.

Am thinking of applying a small Mylar circle over the repair area to protect it. Will look better than before and I think won’t be super noticeable / distracting to the player.

So far I’ve cleaned PF well and filled the divot with a thin layer of filler.

(FYI, the tape up top is around an area I filled in a bit around the upper rollovers that I’ll touch up paint too. And I have tape on the Toto target because I have it dialed in really well and didn’t want to remove it since o had already taken it apart and serviced it when I first got the game last summer.)

Will paint next weekend when I return from a trip.
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Thanks Wayner! When you painted, how did you protect it? I don’t really have clear coating skills. I was thinking about just putting a small mylar circle over that one where spot. What have you found works?

Tell me more about the poly. Do you apply to whole playfield or just to touch up spots? Wax over it? Blends in ok with rest of playfield?

Yes I remember that thread — really cool

OK spin out is back together, but now the technical issues begin.

Here’s the first one: rolling over any of the four “500 or hole value when lit” rollovers, correctly scores 500 points and spins the roto.

If I light any of those holes, however, by rolling over the associated “A, B, C, or D” at the top, when I roll over that “ 500 or hole value when lit” switch, I either get nothing, or sometimes it pulls in the coil on the Roto unit and it just locks in and buzzes. (The difference between these two outcomes is described in my “edit“ section below).

The other three unlit rollovers score correctly, but the lit one does not score and just locks in that coil. And it doesn’t matter which of the four I try this with. No matter which one of the four is lit, that one causes this.

EDIT: I posted the photo below of the path to the “add Roto unit” coil. It’s a pretty simple circuit, with only three switches affecting it – a normally open switch on E, normally open switch on C, and normally closed switch at motor position 4E. I noticed that if the score motor has turned to the position where the tall post is opening that switch at 4E, then if I close the lit rollover switch it still does not score correctly, BUT it does not cause the coil on the Roto unit to engage and buzz. It simply causes the E “ Hole and spin Roto unit relay“ to pull in on the bottom board.

So if 4E is closed, the lit rollover causes the coil on the Roto to pull in and buzz. If it’s open, it doesn’t buzz, but all that happens is that E relay pulls in,
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OK update, I actually fixed the issue above. (Sometimes I amaze myself.)

I studied the schematic and realized that something was causing E not to disengage when it should. That would have to be the score motor, so I looked to see which switch on E moves the score motor. Apparently it wasn’t closing all the way. So that issue is solved!

Ok on to the next:

The numbered targets on the roto unit light the corresponding light they are supposed to, but they don’t score or activate the chimes. Thoughts?

Thanks Howard! The problem ended up being a broken wire on the G relay. Once I fixed that, the game now works 100%.

The last little thing I’m trying to fix is a flickering light on the bar of lights under the seven numbered inserts. I tried soldering the base to the bracket and also moving the wire to the tip of the socket, but it’s still dim and flickering sometimes.

Thanks, Howard. I never got back to you on this -- it was simply the NO switch on 5B. It wasn't closing well. Cleaned and re-gapped it and that #5 light shines nice and bright.