How are the credit plugs set up? Usually a coin switch set up so 1 coin=1 play will start the machine without credits on the counter. Sounds to me like you have a switch on the credit unit that needs attention because it won't start that way.

I dont have the schematic handy but heres a similar.

When you tilt the machine the closed tilt switch (TB relay) is in the circuit if its similar to this.

If thats holds true check your 0 position ball count switch

--Jeff

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woot!
no go get your ass kicked by a Royal Guard.

just a brutal machine

--Jeff

Chris is back.

Where the **** have you been?

Had chips from upstate for you, needed help with my drop targets, and I need those switches.

Plus I was worried you fell off your roof.

Yea Chris!

Don't be a stranger!

Y'all come back now ya hear!beverly-hillbillies-2.jpg

Hard to keep Middleswarth chips in the house with 2 boys.

No worries I'll get more.

Will text you over the weekend.

I finished a restoration of one last year. I love the game. Complete cab repaint, repro backglass, rebuilt the entire playfield.

The snap targets are killers. Nailing one just a bit the wrong way and it's SDTM, even with the posts, or out the outlanes. Very difficult game to beat consistently.

I still need to do a bit of adjusting on mine, I think the bumpers/bumper relays need a bit of fine tuning. It plays really well as is, though. Just want to make it a bit better.

Once the slings start on it, though, unless you can get the ball off them, you're done. The ball will deflect off the snap targets and down she goes, or it will hit the fan targets and just die, and down she goes again. The slings just kill you on this game.

No inlanes means you have to be skillful to catch and trap the ball and aim at the fan targets for the special. Those things are maddening since they alternate on every one point scored and you seemingly always end up with the ball on same side flipper as the lit fan target.

Every once in awhile you'll get the targets lit and you can really rack up the replays, but more often than not, this game will just kick your ass. It will score well if you get the lower 500 rollovers lit, but you inevitably end up 200-300 points short of a replay.

Some games, I just try and get the ball back up top. If you get the standups lit for 100 points and keep shooting it up there, you can run up the score, plus, you can get the ball back through the upper rollovers and light up more of the bottom ones, and get the upper special lit.

I played Tim Arnold's in the PHOF in Vegas back in 2011. Had never played the game before. I beat the crap out of it, but that game is a bit rough and slow. Playing one that is restored and faster is a totally different deal. But that experience led me to get mine. I love those snap targets, but they're a dangerous shot.

Is that the pop bumper wiring?

Something you may consider.
I do not alter the wiring at the pop light leads protruding through the playfield that stays factory.

I sometimes will modify pop light wiring when i remove the pop assembly by putting spade terminal connectors (crimped and soldered) farther up the wire.
Some may call it a hack but if done correct and near the harness you can tuck into it and no one would notice. I zip tied mine outside for easy identification but i could be put inside it if need be.
Once you unplug the terminals,remove the screws in the pop body and the pop bumper ring nuts.

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Done fast.
One thing important make sure the terminals fit through the holes in the playfield and also check the polarity of the socket/wires and be sure to put them to the correct terminal!

I would notice. This is totally unacceptable and you should be soundly flogged!!! Heathen!!!
No, actually a nice idea, but once you've shopped the game and replaced the necessary components you usually don't have to remove the pop again in this lifetime, so I usually just solder it back the way it was.

^^ That method works well for the non-adhesive mylars for the pops is why i decided to do that.
Makes easier teardown to clean under them when its time to wax the playfield again.

That was the only reason I could think of to remove a pop bumper after rebuilding. Good idea!