I always, when replacing cord (I use a polarized cord) attach the hot to the fuse and the neutral to the transformer (return). Does it matter, probably not but standard design suggests the hot is fused.

To quote the other thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sky-jump-wont-start/page/2

We want as little of the electrics to be hot when the switch is open. Looking at the schematic:

With the switch open:

If the active/hot is on the right, everything under the transformer is connected to hot except the main fuse. Bumping the reset coils hurts and there's no fuse in the circuit if you ground them.
If the active/hot is on the left, the active/hot is connected to the fuse and then the switch.
"Therefore we want the active/hot to go to the fuse and the neutral to complete the circuit on the transformer."

Hot to fuse, but obviously only relevant with a polarized or grounded plug.

Here in the UK, I fit the hot/live to the the fuse and neutral to the transformer. Reason being that UK plugs are fused on the live/hot so its just using the same line really. I fit 5 amp fuses too, many use the default 13amp because they are either lazy or just dont realise why fuses have different ratings for different reasons!

Yes. That way if the fuse blows or the game is switched off it's safer.

All my Gottlieb's had it to the fuse. You can view my list of machines to see what I have had in the past.

Because the significance of the wiring wasn't important to the person installing the cord.

DC has a definite + and - side. It's super important to get it right so people are really careful.

AC works regardless of which way you hook it up. The switch still turns the machine off. The machine works fine either way. The importance is less apparent.

I think it might also be because in the US, it didn't matter. The plugs were reversible anyway weren't they or is that European ones? Australia has always had power points that were polarised (and often switched) so we could reliably tell which pin should be active:
pasted_image (resized).png
Again, because AC works either way, it's not uncommon to find a powerpoint hooked up by a DIY moron reversed, and the switch only breaks the neutral. :-/

Ideally, the cabinet switch should be DPST so both active and neutral can be opened. With the older machines with SPST switches, switching the active is the better option of the two, but this still leaves you vulenerable to miswired powerpoints.